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Messages - Goyo626

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It can flower at any time so long as itís warm enough, but youíll get a lot of blooms around May.


This has also been my experience. Poms are some of the latest blooming fruits in my orchard, with guavas being last.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Guava Grafting (top work)
« on: February 16, 2018, 04:24:02 PM »
I saw new growth coming from my guava, and I top worked it using bark grafts in January. They are pushing now, I will try to post pics when I get home.

Interesting. How thick is the bark on new guava growth. It seems like its difficult because guava new growth is very tender and floppy making cuts a challenge. Really interested in seeing pics.

What varieties do you have?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Guava Grafting (top work)
« on: February 15, 2018, 02:26:39 PM »
Do you think the cold snap we are about to enter will be detrimental to success rate? Also should i try to get greenwood and graft to greenwood?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Guava Grafting (top work)
« on: February 15, 2018, 11:56:02 AM »
I would wait until Spring when you see the tree your going to graft flushing new growth! ;)

I actually topped it in october so it has soft growth right now. i hope this cold snap is short so we can get back to 75-80F weather. Thanks..

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Guava Grafting (top work)
« on: February 14, 2018, 02:29:51 PM »
I want to top work a tropical guava but there isnt really much info on best method and practice. I hope someone on this forum can guide me onto the best possibility of success. Here are a couple of questions i have:

what time of year is best time to graft guava?

What type of graft is best?

What scionwood is best (hardwood, semi hardwood, or green)?

Where on the tree is more likely to be successful (on hardwood, semihardwood, or greenwood)?

So far the only academic study outlining this type of guava work is


I am looking for Pluots, Peach and Apricot Scions please let me know if you have for sale.

Do you have anything for trade?

I am interested in guava cuttings. What are the top three varieties you offer?

1.jalisco red
3.thai cream

Thanks. Are the guava scions soft green wood, semi hard wood, or mature hard wood?

I am interested in guava cuttings. What are the top three varieties you offer?

If you are getting minnie royal and royal lee you should know that they have synchronicuty problems. I tried growing them and in 5 yrs i fot a total of 3 cherries. They would never bloom together. I finally pulled them and got a royal crimson hoping that since it is self pollinating it will work better. I would have held on to them but i didnt like the rootstock zdwarf it was very canker prone, at least in my area.

There is a new low chill cherry that is self fertile.  Check Dave Wilson website.  You could also look for improved varieties of capulin cherry.

The DWN variety is Royal Crimson. Previously named 6GM25.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: CRFG cache
« on: January 24, 2018, 02:34:40 PM »
Sorry i dont think i made it clear these are varieties that im hoping to acquire through the scion exchange. I know that i probably wont find everything on the list but im hoping to find at least 30% of the total list and hopefully at least one variety from each type of fruit on the list.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: CRFG cache
« on: January 23, 2018, 11:13:37 PM »


Royal Gala
Cripps Pink
Senshu fuji
Wickson crab apple
Dixie red delight


August pride
Evas Pride
May Pride 
Champagne White Peach 


Arctic Glo


Late Santa Rosa
Weeping Santa Rosa
Emrald beauty


Flavor rich


Black madeira
Unk pastillerie




Thompson grape
Summer royal
Crimson seedless
Ruby seedless


Utah sweet


Misty blueberry
Emerald blueberry


Apache thornless
Chester thornless
Dirksen thornless
Natchez thornless
Navajo thornless
Triplecrown thornless




Cookes Pakistan
Chelsea king james
Black persian

Dragon fruit

David Bowie
Natural Mystic

This is a complete list of varieties I researched and believe will work in my area. Any suggestions or recommendations are welcomed.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: CRFG cache
« on: January 23, 2018, 11:12:16 AM »
Does anyone know if the scion exchange at LA Arboretum is of significant size? I missed the Orange county one.

Will thinning the fruit really help size? I have several guava trees that receive minimal care and the produce good sized fruit on their own. I always thouht guavas self thin. A couple of them do seem to be alternate bearers.

goyo, it's because they need full sun to taste sweet,acidic, with good flavors.    If you don't give it full sun, it will taste like blend cardboard.  My mom move her tree to a shaded area, and quality of fruits is blend.  I don't even want to eat it.  I keep telling to move it back to full sun as it was tasting very good when i was in full sun.  Give it morning sun if you can.

I think that may have been a problem, but I wasnt completely sure if that was because of the shade or just a bad seedling (i could not detect a graft/bud union on the trunk). it was an old in ground tree so moving it was not an option. I was just letting the OP know that it will definately fruit but the quality may not be good. I ended up taking it out but those root suckers are a pain to deal with.

There was an old guava that was already planted on my property when i moved in. It was heavily shaded by the house eastern side and a wall on the west, especially after pruning. By the end of the growing season it would be slightly higher than the house. It always fruited heavily, although the quality was terrible. The fruit tasted like toothpaste to me.  im not sure if ithe poor quality was because of the shading or because the previous owner planted a seedling that bore poor quality fruit.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« on: January 11, 2018, 01:21:32 PM »
I prefer to plant it now let it establish some roots and graft in late July. But Iíve also potted and grafted in June. Why pug it if you are going to use it as rootstock?

Great question. My reasoning was that i was hoping to keep the tree small and hoped to get a couple of shoots growing low so i could graft the scion to green wood. Im not sure if it makes sense.

Just donít top it now. Depending on how long the tree has been in itís current pot and wether it has filled that pot with roots will determine wether you need to up pot it or not. If itís completely filled itís current pot with roots, you can up pot it to a new container that is slightly bigger giving the plant about 1/2-1 inch or additional room for root growth. Donít stick it into a huge container, you have to gradually increase the size of the container.

Donít top it now because there will be little to no vegetative growth at this time of year and topping it will mean youíre decreasing the amount of energy it can gather through its leaves.

For now, determin where you want your tree to start branching but just let it grow for now. I would actually let it grow and establish(the in ground tree) until the following Spring so that it can grow vegetatively and establish its roots for at least one year. The following Spring, you can top it off at the point where you want branching to start or if youíre ok with where the scaffold branches are now, just let it grow.

If you decide to top it off at letís say 2 or 3 feet, you will probably have removed half or more of its total height and all the growth from last year but your tree will now have an established root system and a slightly thicker trunk that will not be so leggy. After you top it in half, you can remove the green stretchy tape that has been attached to the Mango tree and wooden stake and your remaining trunk should be able to stand up on its own.

The new growth coming off the newly topped shorter tree will grow up straight and and should not be staked. Let it get blown around and it will develop a strong trunk with branching that starts a your desired height.


Thanks. I dont think that the trees have out grown the container since the soil it came in feels very loose im thinking they were recently repotted. I forgot to mention in myfirst post that i grew  a mango tree from seed, but i cant remember which seed i used. Also its not grown well although it has 3 good branches that are in a good spot. Im thinking of practicing my grafting on this tree this season. And follow your advice and let the manila seedlings just grow.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« on: January 11, 2018, 09:34:42 AM »
Ideally, a new Mango tree is planted immediately or shortly after it is purchased and early Spring after last chance of frost is the best time to plant inyo the ground. Others may disagree but planting early will allow your tree to have a longer interval before the next chance of frost.

If you donít get frost, you can plant directly into the ground now but donít top it. You want to keep all the vegetative growth for photosynthesis. Also you want to remove some of the green ties keeping your tree upright but donít remove all of them. You want your tree to sway and bend slightly in the wind so that the trunk will grow thick and strong.

There is a window period of vigorous and active growth, even when you start with good rootstocks and if the roots become pot bound, the tree can get stunted. Itís not only the Turpentine rootstocks that can get stunted. You are on the right track.


Thanks. Are you saying dont top it at all or just until it gets established? I was planning on planting one in the ground in mid february or early march once any possible chance of frost has passed.

Would a costco planter be large enough for the one im planning on putting in a container?

It's a tough call on this one. You couldd, possibly put it into a container of the same size but with a coat of "MicroKote" paint applied to the inside of said pot. This would give you a month or two of potential root growth reaching/branching to give your smaller tree a bit more root mass and/or feeder roots. I know everyone says tropicals grow slowly below 60f but they do grow albeit slowly (If weather permits). If you can wait, you can up your pot size and let them "grow-up" for a season and then plant them...The bigger the better.  Chris

Thanks for the suggestion. Ill look into it.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / New Mango Journey Begins
« on: January 09, 2018, 03:11:41 PM »
I always assumed that mangoes were an impossible fruit to grow in my climate. So I resigned myself to buying them from the super market. I then stubled upon a thread on gardenweb from 2005 and began dreaming with having my own tree. Then i started paying attentention as to what the people around my home grew in their yards. I was surprised to see mango trees being successfully grown in my area.

 I decided to buy a mango tree. Searching around i found champa nursery which had the mango variety mallika which sounded amazing. Unfortunately, the tree was plagued with lack of vigor and was constantly trying to flower. It just died. My hopes dashed, i just  pulled it out and moved on.

Months later I came across this forum and read lots of threads which described the problem I had with my mango tree. The tree was indeed on turpentine rootstock. I decided to heed the wisdom of those on this forum who successfully grow mangoes in southern california and buy 2seedling manila mango trees .

Im hoping that with help from this forum i will be able to become a successful southern california mango grower.

This tree was purchased from champa $25

This one was obtained from lowes $25

The measurements were taken from soil line of the container.

I want fruiting bushy type tree. At which height should i pug the tree when i put one in the ground? How about the one that i put in a large container?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

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