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Messages - brian

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1
Beetle looks to be the common japanese beetle, aka june bug.  Dunno if they will eat the guava, its possible.

The pods are flower buds, you should get fruit soon!

2
Thanks, all, for the suggestions.  I have trimmed the leaves back more severely.

I have a very high success rate on lychees, rambutan, sapodilla, wax apple, guava, langsat, sour sop, canistel and others. In the last 2 weeks I have put over 200 marcots on my trees and expect most to work well from experience. Pity its hard to post pics these days.
Anyway I see a few red flags in the pics and descriptions. Ideal branch width is 1cm to 3 cm but micromarcots are easy. Ideal ringbark width is 1cm to 2cm not like in the pics below. Paint or brush with rootex or clonex 8g per l concentration. I prefer gel to powder. Have pre prepared ziplock (I use 15 x 9cm mostly) cut on one side then tape over ring back. Tape it up well. Aluminium foil does not change the success rate. Remove in 4 weeks to 6 months with 8 weeks being average. Make sure they are well rooted unlike the plant below in the pic. Trim then pot. EASY. The mix in the bag I use is 50 : vermiculite and coco coir but sphagnum is fine. Below does look too leafy with too many roots and should be settled in a pot until properly rooted.The ties shown are less secure and looser than using electrical tape. The width of bark removed below is way in excess of required. In many cases it works out better than grafting for tree vigour and speed to fruiting.

Thanks for the detailed advice!

3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« on: April 18, 2024, 10:36:39 PM »
Peter, do you think I should cut the leaves back severely?  I could even cut it back to that swelling bud just above the roots, if drying out is the main risk.

4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« on: April 18, 2024, 09:56:39 PM »
Too late, it's cut.  The roots do look sparse, I'm not sure if it'll survive.  I cut half the leaves off to try to balance it out, as you suggest.  It is now in a container in the greenhouse in half shade.

Think it has a chance to survive?

If not, it isn't a huge deal.  I expect the parent will survive the coming mid-30F lows and if so I have six months or so to try again.  And I have an Inga Spectabilis seedling growing meanwhile.






5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« on: April 18, 2024, 04:34:59 PM »
oh, I guess I got my answer, the roots just appeared today!  I am going to cut it off


6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« on: April 18, 2024, 01:54:41 PM »
It has been nearly two months since I started the airlayer on my inga.  The branch is still very healthy but I have yet to see roots appear on the soil bag.  The article I posted mentioned 100% success with rooting after five weeks.  Should I cut the branch and assume it has roots they just haven't reached the edge of the bag yet to become visible?

I would just wait until they appear but colder weather (~36F) is coming and I have to haul most of my trees back into the greenhouse.  The inga is too big to move now that I up-potted it into a 35gal container knowing that it will be trashed when winter comes.  I am guessing that near freezing weather could harm the airlayer, but I might be worrying about nothing.  I expect the parent tree will be fine.

Should I cut the airlayer now and put it in the heated greenhouse?  Or leave it as-is until it shows roots?

7
I grow cacao instead of bicolor because I can find the seeds and fruit!!!  ;)
I'd love to grow others but can't get my hands on them. Seedlings from EBay are risky at best.

Carolyn

Seller 9waters on etsy is very reliable and currently carries seedlings:  https://www.etsy.com/listing/652257995/

8
Ugh, they are dioecious?  I didn't even realize

9
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Is this root rot on my lemon tree ?
« on: April 06, 2024, 03:43:58 PM »
It does look like root rot, yes

Bagged potting mix is often mostly peat moss which is extremely water retaining, and I believe coco coir is itself quite absorbent.  I suggest making chunky, minimally-absorbent material a significant portion of your potting mix.  Something like mulch, perlite, vermiculite, gravel, hydroton, turface, decomposed granite, etc.

The amount of roots lost is not too bad, your tree should recover and regrow new roots if it is otherwise healthy.  When I root prune my container trees I cut off about 25% of the rootball

10
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Variegated minneola
« on: April 05, 2024, 07:34:30 PM »
I highly recommend sumo, it has a permanent place in my greenhouse

11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Are these Eugenia species any good?
« on: April 05, 2024, 07:31:23 PM »
You can expect a ton of new taste reports this year or next.  Lots of new seeds available in past couple years that should be coming into fruit

12
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: ODDS & SODS - PLANTS FOR SALE
« on: April 05, 2024, 08:58:33 AM »
Ah, ok cool, thanks

13
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Variegated minneola
« on: April 04, 2024, 09:15:33 PM »
Brian, that's a new one, never heard anyone have that issue with one fruit.

It happens all the time, too.  I wonder if it is just a milder symptom of whatever causes the puffiness issue, which also seems to affect one end of the fruit primarily

14
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Variegated minneola
« on: April 04, 2024, 08:26:22 PM »
12Zodiac, your sumo fruits look just like mine.  Except that weird twinned one.

I have noticed that the sweetness varies somewhat across even a single segment.  One end might be very sweet and the other bland.  Overall, they are really great though.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Guabiju and calycina pollination
« on: April 04, 2024, 08:13:47 PM »
Here's the thread from last year when I reported my Savannah Cherry (e. calycina) fruiting solo:  https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=51078.0.   K-Rimes suggested it might be a COTRG + Calycina hybrid.  I don't know enough about them to tell.  Last year my COTRG wasn't yet flowering, the only Eugenias I had flowering were uniflora, pitangatuba, and this calycina.

The seeds from these fruit all sprouted, though I threw most of them away as this is a common variety. 

It is fruiting again right now with many fruitlets and some mature fruits already, and while this year I have been cross-pollinating all the eugenia flowers that are blooming at the same time this is still the only mature calycina, the rest are COTRG, uniflora, or others

16
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: ODDS & SODS - PLANTS FOR SALE
« on: April 04, 2024, 04:10:53 PM »
Kevin is your Sweet Uvaia from Marcos' seeds?  I have a seedling from W. that he grow from Marcos' "pyriformis or lutescens" seeds.  Wondering if yours are the same or some other source.

Mine is far from fruiting, though my normal pyriformis just set flowers.

17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Guabiju and calycina pollination
« on: April 04, 2024, 04:06:04 PM »
My solo calycina set fruit.  The seeds seemed normal and I have a couple of them growing new plants.

  I've never heard of guabiju, though, can't speak to that one.

18
I can't speak much to container soil, I am not even sure what my container soil is anymore it it contains recycled soil from years of repottings

19
By "flushing out" I assume Epicatt2 is talking about leaching - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaching_(chemistry), using water to dissolve accumulated minerals in the container soil and remove them.

Even my in-ground, in-greenhouse rollinia looks a bit yellow in the winter.  It will bounce back to healthy green as it warms up and we get longer days.  Yours might also

20
Citrus General Discussion / Re: compact lemon options
« on: April 02, 2024, 08:02:58 PM »
sc4001992 I must say your tree is funny looking :)   The lemon really stands out from the FD base

I am surprised to see that my Lisbon lemon on FD is still reasonably vigorous, more than I expected.  Lemons really want to grow fast it seems.  I think it is still probably far more reserved than on its own roots or a typical lemon rootstock.


I grafted a few of them (in case the grafts failed), and I only need one.  This is the extra one if anyone wants it:
EDIT - tree is spoken for

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Using lousy tangelo as rootstock
« on: April 02, 2024, 07:42:55 PM »
Tropicaltoba isn't it likely that your minneola is itself grafted?  Do you know its rootstock?  I know you can have interstocks but I don't know much about their usage.

My in-ground light-green/dark-green variegated minneola produced poor fruit.  It was soft and watery and the tree was overly vigorous.  This one was from Harris Citrus, not sure what the rootstock is the label doesn't seem to say.  I removed it and prepared a replacement non-variegated minneola on flying dragon rootstock.  I am growing the new tree in a container for a few years and then putting it in the ground also, hoping for better results.  I have another containerized variegated minneola that produces decent fruit but I will probably go with the non-variegated type long term. 

Some of the best citrus I've ever tasted were minneola tangelos from the grocery store, but they seem to be very inconsistent.  I really don't want to give up on them yet.  Maybe if it is a poor producer for many years I will.

22
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Uppotting a Moro Blood Orange
« on: April 02, 2024, 07:38:59 PM »
Yes, it would be unwise to move a tree directly from a small pot to a half barrel.  Do it slowly over time as the roots grow or you may have stagnant water issues and drown your new tree.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Some intersting fruits from Viet Nam
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:46:41 PM »
#1 looks like Mammea americana

I think so too

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Pruning and/or staking young annona
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:36:13 PM »
I would stake the two main dropping branches into a Y shape.  They will harden as they grow and hold their shape.   And cut the right side lower branch that is right under the other one.  Not much use to have a branch directly underneath and parallel to another branch.  I'd cut that stubby top one also and let it by a Y shape


25
I don't think you actually need to remove the shell, the idea is to crack it enough to let water in more easily.

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