Author Topic: New Mango Journey Begins  (Read 2092 times)

Goyo626

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New Mango Journey Begins
« on: January 09, 2018, 03:11:41 PM »
I always assumed that mangoes were an impossible fruit to grow in my climate. So I resigned myself to buying them from the super market. I then stubled upon a thread on gardenweb from 2005 and began dreaming with having my own tree. Then i started paying attentention as to what the people around my home grew in their yards. I was surprised to see mango trees being successfully grown in my area.

 I decided to buy a mango tree. Searching around i found champa nursery which had the mango variety mallika which sounded amazing. Unfortunately, the tree was plagued with lack of vigor and was constantly trying to flower. It just died. My hopes dashed, i just  pulled it out and moved on.

Months later I came across this forum and read lots of threads which described the problem I had with my mango tree. The tree was indeed on turpentine rootstock. I decided to heed the wisdom of those on this forum who successfully grow mangoes in southern california and buy 2seedling manila mango trees .

Im hoping that with help from this forum i will be able to become a successful southern california mango grower.

This tree was purchased from champa $25

















This one was obtained from lowes $25












The measurements were taken from soil line of the container.

I want fruiting bushy type tree. At which height should i pug the tree when i put one in the ground? How about the one that i put in a large container?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.


simon_grow

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Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2018, 08:06:07 PM »
Ideally, a new Mango tree is planted immediately or shortly after it is purchased and early Spring after last chance of frost is the best time to plant inyo the ground. Others may disagree but planting early will allow your tree to have a longer interval before the next chance of frost.

If you don’t get frost, you can plant directly into the ground now but don’t top it. You want to keep all the vegetative growth for photosynthesis. Also you want to remove some of the green ties keeping your tree upright but don’t remove all of them. You want your tree to sway and bend slightly in the wind so that the trunk will grow thick and strong.

There is a window period of vigorous and active growth, even when you start with good rootstocks and if the roots become pot bound, the tree can get stunted. It’s not only the Turpentine rootstocks that can get stunted. You are on the right track.

Simon

OCchris1

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Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2018, 02:43:55 AM »
It's a tough call on this one. You couldd, possibly put it into a container of the same size but with a coat of "MicroKote" paint applied to the inside of said pot. This would give you a month or two of potential root growth reaching/branching to give your smaller tree a bit more root mass and/or feeder roots. I know everyone says tropicals grow slowly below 60f but they do grow albeit slowly (If weather permits). If you can wait, you can up your pot size and let them "grow-up" for a season and then plant them...The bigger the better.  Chris
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Goyo626

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Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2018, 09:34:42 AM »
Ideally, a new Mango tree is planted immediately or shortly after it is purchased and early Spring after last chance of frost is the best time to plant inyo the ground. Others may disagree but planting early will allow your tree to have a longer interval before the next chance of frost.

If you don’t get frost, you can plant directly into the ground now but don’t top it. You want to keep all the vegetative growth for photosynthesis. Also you want to remove some of the green ties keeping your tree upright but don’t remove all of them. You want your tree to sway and bend slightly in the wind so that the trunk will grow thick and strong.

There is a window period of vigorous and active growth, even when you start with good rootstocks and if the roots become pot bound, the tree can get stunted. It’s not only the Turpentine rootstocks that can get stunted. You are on the right track.

Simon

Thanks. Are you saying dont top it at all or just until it gets established? I was planning on planting one in the ground in mid february or early march once any possible chance of frost has passed.

Would a costco planter be large enough for the one im planning on putting in a container?


It's a tough call on this one. You couldd, possibly put it into a container of the same size but with a coat of "MicroKote" paint applied to the inside of said pot. This would give you a month or two of potential root growth reaching/branching to give your smaller tree a bit more root mass and/or feeder roots. I know everyone says tropicals grow slowly below 60f but they do grow albeit slowly (If weather permits). If you can wait, you can up your pot size and let them "grow-up" for a season and then plant them...The bigger the better.  Chris

Thanks for the suggestion. Ill look into it.


JF

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Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2018, 11:06:04 AM »
I prefer to plant it now let it establish some roots and graft in late July. But I’ve also potted and grafted in June. Why pug it if you are going to use it as rootstock?

simon_grow

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Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2018, 11:14:20 AM »
Just don’t top it now. Depending on how long the tree has been in it’s current pot and wether it has filled that pot with roots will determine wether you need to up pot it or not. If it’s completely filled it’s current pot with roots, you can up pot it to a new container that is slightly bigger giving the plant about 1/2-1 inch or additional room for root growth. Don’t stick it into a huge container, you have to gradually increase the size of the container.

Don’t top it now because there will be little to no vegetative growth at this time of year and topping it will mean you’re decreasing the amount of energy it can gather through its leaves.

For now, determin where you want your tree to start branching but just let it grow for now. I would actually let it grow and establish(the in ground tree) until the following Spring so that it can grow vegetatively and establish its roots for at least one year. The following Spring, you can top it off at the point where you want branching to start or if you’re ok with where the scaffold branches are now, just let it grow.

If you decide to top it off at let’s say 2 or 3 feet, you will probably have removed half or more of its total height and all the growth from last year but your tree will now have an established root system and a slightly thicker trunk that will not be so leggy. After you top it in half, you can remove the green stretchy tape that has been attached to the Mango tree and wooden stake and your remaining trunk should be able to stand up on its own.

The new growth coming off the newly topped shorter tree will grow up straight and and should not be staked. Let it get blown around and it will develop a strong trunk with branching that starts a your desired height.

Simon

Goyo626

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Re: New Mango Journey Begins
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2018, 01:21:32 PM »
I prefer to plant it now let it establish some roots and graft in late July. But I’ve also potted and grafted in June. Why pug it if you are going to use it as rootstock?

Great question. My reasoning was that i was hoping to keep the tree small and hoped to get a couple of shoots growing low so i could graft the scion to green wood. Im not sure if it makes sense.

Just don’t top it now. Depending on how long the tree has been in it’s current pot and wether it has filled that pot with roots will determine wether you need to up pot it or not. If it’s completely filled it’s current pot with roots, you can up pot it to a new container that is slightly bigger giving the plant about 1/2-1 inch or additional room for root growth. Don’t stick it into a huge container, you have to gradually increase the size of the container.

Don’t top it now because there will be little to no vegetative growth at this time of year and topping it will mean you’re decreasing the amount of energy it can gather through its leaves.

For now, determin where you want your tree to start branching but just let it grow for now. I would actually let it grow and establish(the in ground tree) until the following Spring so that it can grow vegetatively and establish its roots for at least one year. The following Spring, you can top it off at the point where you want branching to start or if you’re ok with where the scaffold branches are now, just let it grow.

If you decide to top it off at let’s say 2 or 3 feet, you will probably have removed half or more of its total height and all the growth from last year but your tree will now have an established root system and a slightly thicker trunk that will not be so leggy. After you top it in half, you can remove the green stretchy tape that has been attached to the Mango tree and wooden stake and your remaining trunk should be able to stand up on its own.

The new growth coming off the newly topped shorter tree will grow up straight and and should not be staked. Let it get blown around and it will develop a strong trunk with branching that starts a your desired height.

Simon

Thanks. I dont think that the trees have out grown the container since the soil it came in feels very loose im thinking they were recently repotted. I forgot to mention in myfirst post that i grew  a mango tree from seed, but i cant remember which seed i used. Also its not grown well although it has 3 good branches that are in a good spot. Im thinking of practicing my grafting on this tree this season. And follow your advice and let the manila seedlings just grow.