Author Topic: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!  (Read 241373 times)

Ryansbrooks1991

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #650 on: January 19, 2015, 02:06:07 PM »
also do i keep the leaves wet, stop new growth from happening on the rootstock or do I not worry about it and let it grow? I usually break off new branches that grow is that a problem.. they grow super fast bust out of the grafting tape and die about 1-2 weeks after low % of success because of the drying after busting through the tape.

Patrick

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #651 on: January 19, 2015, 03:06:59 PM »
If the growth flushes out of the scion within the first three weeks chances are its just energy from the scion itself. 

Ryansbrooks1991

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #652 on: January 19, 2015, 03:26:10 PM »
so what should I do from preventing the scion having so much energy, are the specialized bags to put over the top to keep it humid inside the whole plant/tree including the container?

jcaldeira

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #653 on: January 19, 2015, 03:29:58 PM »
I sometimes have the same thing happen.  Don't give up hope, though, because sometimes the side buds will burst out a month later.

As Patrick suggests, it's probably that the scion's tip had already 'decided' to grow before being grafted.  It grew, then ran out of steam.  Perhaps the bud was a little too developed when grafted.

Also, the rootstock, as well as the scion, should be in a growth flush when grafting for best success.  This can be promoted by watering with RAIN water.

My one criticism of most grafting books, including Garner's handbook, is that they don't emphasize the importance of the plants' growth condition.   Cambium contact is only half of success - timing is almost as important.  The rootstock shouldn't be in a dormant state when grafting.   

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bangkok

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #654 on: January 19, 2015, 04:24:37 PM »
I have the same problem, very frustrating. I guess it is a fungus because the original sprouts from my tree also get black and die.

Yes the tree has to be in growing mode to have success but some scions seem to have no problem at all, i have scions from Maya who suffer from black leaves after growing for some weeks and other Maya scions who grow very well with 5 outcoming healthy sprouts.

Maybe also the variety of the scion makes a difference?

Ryansbrooks1991

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #655 on: January 19, 2015, 04:28:44 PM »
the rootstock is about 3 months avg old give or take a month on each rootstock, but what do you mean they should not be dormant? also The black fungus might be anthracnose Bangkok look into that. also are you referring to cleft grafts or veneer grafts.. because the new growth gets cut away for clefts anyways so new growth starts to grow underneath the scion on the rootstock. for the veneer grafts I could see how u need the rootstock to not be dormant.. im not sure I could see it being a little too developed I just thought the pimple or whatever should be swollen in order to take a scion.

bangkok

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #656 on: January 19, 2015, 04:58:44 PM »
the rootstock is about 3 months avg old give or take a month on each rootstock, but what do you mean they should not be dormant? also The black fungus might be anthracnose Bangkok look into that. also are you referring to cleft grafts or veneer grafts.. because the new growth gets cut away for clefts anyways so new growth starts to grow underneath the scion on the rootstock. for the veneer grafts I could see how u need the rootstock to not be dormant.. im not sure I could see it being a little too developed I just thought the pimple or whatever should be swollen in order to take a scion.

I am topworking a mature tree which i pruned drastically. The new sprouts on other branches also get black, i don't cut those away. Yes i also cut all new sprouts growing near my scions. I never had success with veneer grafts on mango, only with approach grafting and then tree's have to be in growing mode to get success.

Anthracnose is a real problem for young leaves and flowerbuds . Spraying doesn't help much and we even don't have high humidity or rain.

Ryansbrooks1991

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #657 on: January 19, 2015, 05:37:59 PM »
Yes the problem is not just you its your surrounding area too. So you could bathe your tree but a neighboring tree probably has it, so in no time you'd be infected again

bangkok

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #658 on: January 19, 2015, 05:59:00 PM »
Yes the problem is not just you its your surrounding area too. So you could bathe your tree but a neighboring tree probably has it, so in no time you'd be infected again

Yup, also spraying is not my hobby.

The good thing about this die-back can be that scions develop more buds which might sprout later. As long as they are still alive there's a good chance of that happening. The record for me is 5 sprouting buds on a Maya-scion which  suffered from die-back first. It grows very well now but lost 1 new branch.

jcaldeira

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #659 on: January 19, 2015, 06:14:26 PM »
the rootstock is about 3 months avg old give or take a month on each rootstock, but what do you mean they should not be dormant? . .

The seedling rootstock will go through periods of growth and periods where there is no visible growth.  My grafting success is best when the rootstock itself either has swollen buds or visible new growth (as well as swollen buds on the scion).  In the sub-tropics this is probably more predictable than in the tropics. 

In my area, the best time to graft seems to be after the dry season, a week or so after the first good rains.  Everything starts to push new growth then and it's hard to mess up a graft.
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MangoFang

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #660 on: January 19, 2015, 06:36:13 PM »
John - you are SO right.  Timing for grafting (besides the cambian matchup) out here in the desert southwest is best either as the climate starts to cool off or warm up.  In between it's a bust.  I finally learned that this last year.  I had the most grafts take in mid-November and even though they are just holding steady now in the cooler winter months, they do look healthy...and ready to continue their march to greatness....

Gary

bsbullie

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #661 on: January 19, 2015, 08:44:27 PM »
There many conditions that affect the success of the traft.  Age of budwood harvested and stage of buds of the budwood,  matching cambium,  flow within the rootstock,  temperature,  time of day you actually perform the graft...oh, and along with skill and all of the aforementioned,  there is always a little luck involved.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2015, 10:37:45 AM by murahilin »
- Rob

JF

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #662 on: January 19, 2015, 09:03:33 PM »
For Socal timing is the key. For early mango grafts the last week of January and  the month of July to the last two weeks of August......assuming you are an experience grafter. Gary has a different situation in Palm Springs but for the LA basin and San Diego this is the perfect week.

murahilin

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #663 on: January 20, 2015, 10:45:51 AM »
So I am wondering why my grafts keep drying after they break through should I cover them with bags to keep them more humid get some kind of misting fan.. any ideas to make this a more successful grafting area? It is located in a shade house.

No need to cover them with a bad if you're wrapping them with parafilm or buddy tape. The main problem I see is that your rootstock is growing. Once the rootstock starts to grow below the new graft, it will often kill the graft if it is has begun to "take." The fact that the rootstock is pushing could also mean that the graft did not take to begin with.

I would suggest you don't wrap it so heavily as well.

Also, please read through the entire thread that I just merged this into.

marklee

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Re: Mango Graft
« Reply #664 on: January 20, 2015, 06:20:09 PM »
For Socal timing is the key. For early mango grafts the last week of January and  the month of July to the last two weeks of August......assuming you are an experience grafter. Gary has a different situation in Palm Springs but for the LA basin and San Diego this is the perfect week.
Frank, I just grafted up a few mangos this last week and week and the buds are pushing nicely. As long as it is above 60 degrees things should work out.

FrankDrebinOfFruits

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #665 on: February 04, 2015, 07:04:45 PM »
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.

Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.


marklee

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #666 on: February 04, 2015, 07:35:50 PM »
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.

Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.
Tough to graft Longan, better to air layer a few.

Jsvand5

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #667 on: February 04, 2015, 08:36:52 PM »
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.

Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.

Found this. Pics aren't very helpful though.
https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/5818675/highly-successful-wedge-grafting-for-rambutan-lychee-longan


xshen

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #668 on: February 04, 2015, 09:16:08 PM »
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.

Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.

I like to do whip grafts for longans.  Looks better after it's healed and you get better control of cambium match up by making small incremental cuts.

These were done in mid winter before the frost.




This was grafted at the same time as the one above but there were some die back after the frost.  This is the second flush after the initial growth died. The graft was out in the open with no protection from the nearby foliage.



 
« Last Edit: February 04, 2015, 10:49:26 PM by xshen »

FrankDrebinOfFruits

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #669 on: February 05, 2015, 01:06:23 AM »
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.

Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.

I like to do whip grafts for longans.  Looks better after it's healed and you get better control of cambium match up by making small incremental cuts.

These were done in mid winter before the frost.




This was grafted at the same time as the one above but there were some die back after the frost.  This is the second flush after the initial growth died. The graft was out in the open with no protection from the nearby foliage.


Wow, those came out great! Alright, will try whip tomorrow. I haven't tried to cut a whip, but willing to try :)

Guanabanus

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #670 on: February 05, 2015, 08:21:12 AM »
Nice!
Har

Jsvand5

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #671 on: February 05, 2015, 08:57:10 AM »
Those are nice. For some reason I have never thought of doing a whip and tongue on tropicals. They work great on my stone fruits. Guess I'll have to give them a try.

behlgarden

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #672 on: February 05, 2015, 11:33:50 AM »
has anyone successfully grafted Lychees? can Lychees be grafted on Longan? I know this was discussed before but wanted to see if in last 12 months if things have changed

ScottR

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #673 on: February 05, 2015, 11:57:04 AM »
Very beautiful graft's Xshen thanks for posting. ;)

Guanabanus

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Re: Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!
« Reply #674 on: February 05, 2015, 11:06:22 PM »
Lychees can be grafted on lychee seedlings that are healthy and juicy.
Har