Recent Posts

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Carissa/Natal plum ...
« Last post by growinginphoenix on Today at 12:50:39 PM »
As far as I know, pruning this plant is up to your preference. Where I live it is a common landscaping plant and is frequently trimmed with hedge trimmers into a bush shape. When trimmed this way they don't produce much fruit if any though.
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Received my plants yesterday and they are in excellent condition!





The best seller in my experience! Thank Kevin!
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Citrus General Discussion / Re: I have the problem.
« Last post by Millet on Today at 12:19:09 PM »
Bearss limes themselves produce a lot of tannins.
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Heads-up!
I'll soon have fresh cuttings of several different Mulberries available:
Shangri-La, Pakistani, Thai Dwarf and White Pakistani.

Interested persons can reach me here:

kevin@bamatv.com

Kevin

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Was this cherimoya cold?
« Last post by SanDiegoCherimoya on Today at 11:50:21 AM »
Cherimoya leaves can easily get beat up for a variety of reasons. They are also semi deciduous and drop their leaves in the spring to promote new growth/flowers.

Whatever is happening with your tree, I would give it little concern. I see way worse looking trees here in San Diego
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Ruby Supreme Guava - Anyone Growing It?
« Last post by sc4001992 on Today at 11:42:50 AM »
I got some cuttings of the Ruby Supreme guava. The fruit that fell from this large tree was already too ripe to eat, but I did get the fruit to document the size, shape, flesh color, and brix.

1. Fruit size, 2-1/2" long
2. Brix =14

===============================
If you are growing the Ruby Supreme, please comment on your fruit and taste, also any photos of your fruit would be nice to see here.

Please post any of your fruits below so I can compare the fruits.







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The tree from where I picked up the over ripe fruit is very large, about 15 feet tall, maybe 10-15 years old. I hope to taste a good fruit that is ripe, not over ripe next time.

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I've really enjoyed all the greenhouse discussion. Mostly Brian's two earlier threads when he was building his greenhouse. Very interesting and informative.

My greenhouse is in Alpine Texas at 4500 ft elevation in a sunny dry climate. I'm about 300 miles SW of Mark, drier, cooler, and more sunny. It's 54x32x16ft tall. Built myself in 2005. Used for hobby at first, then 7 years growing and selling fig trees, now back to hobby growing. Cooling is wet wall and three 36 inch exhaust fans. I can maintain low 90s all summer with no shade cloth needed.

I'm growing nectarines, peach, apricot, pluots, sweet cherry, mulberry, figs, citrus, mango, banana, and grapes.

What's different about my production system is a chill cycle of 45 days in winter to get chilling for stone fruits. I can achieve 700+ Utah chill hours by heating to 42 at night and holding daytime at 65 or below. Citrus take's the chill cycle in stride, the mango and banana aren't too happy but survive. Next winter I'll install a 20x10ft greenhouse over some of the mango to hold about 15F warmer during chill cycle.

I started out with normal 6 mil double layer inflated poly on the roof. That lasted 2-3 yrs before losing inflation mostly due to hail. Then went with a woven poly called Solarig. It's a massive improvement over 6 mil 4 yr poly. It was totally problem free for 10 years. Now I have Palring 175 double layer inflated. It's the best yet. Cost marginally more than 4 yr and lasts 3x as long. If I built another GH it would be 100% covered in Palring double layer inflated. If someone wants single layer, then Solarig would be a good choice given more diffused light than Palring. Double layer Palring gives high light level inside with some IR retention in winter. From what I've seen Palring is the most cost-effective GH covering available.

https://www.robertmarvel.com/greenhouse-covers

Yesterday I harvested my first nectarines. Like Millet I really appreciate a warm sunny place to grow things even when it's cold and windy outside. The GH is the best money I ever spent. It paid for itself many times over in profits and enjoyment.

Congratulations Brian on your GH. And I greatly appreciate all you've contributed here. Very informative..!!

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Ruby vs. Ruby Supreme Guave
« Last post by sc4001992 on Today at 11:09:52 AM »
Do you have a photo of your fruit, is the shape like the one I showed above? How large is the fruit, I see different photos that shows a smal to large round fruit so not sure which one is correct.
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Fliptop,

Did you get this figured out? How are your Pickering trees doing nowadays, since a significant amount of time has elapsed from when you posted? Are they healthy and productive or did they get stunted from early fruit set?

I have a smallish little gem in a pot that is clearly very precocious and wants to hold onto way more fruit than it should. I’ve been (painfully) removing more and more fruit, which are almost golfball sized. Thinking of letting the little tree try to hold 2-3 mangos to maturity. Interestingly, the leaves have begun to droop significantly just like what you experienced with the Pickering, while panicles remain perky. The tree is properly watered. The drooping leaves appear to be a response to flowering and fruiting.

I have also noticed this phenomenon on my in ground maha chanok, which is about 15 feet tall/4” trunk and fairly loaded with small fruit. The maha branches that have substantial fruit set show mildly drooping leaves as well as leaves that are lighter green (perhaps indicating nitrogen flow from the leaves to the fruit?). The couple maha branches that did not flower/fruit do not have this issue, with darker green non-drooping leaves.

Do any of the experienced growers know if this is normal for smaller mango trees without massive trunks/canopies?
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