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In compatible root stock. My Meiwa was grafted to incompatible Kuharske Citrange so I planted a flying dragon 1 inch away and did an approach graft and cut out the Kuharske.
I disagree. I have seen groves mixed in alternate rows with pine trees and the trees look far healthier than open sun and open air trees. My own experience so far mirrors this. They are an understory tree in nature and prefer dappled light. Every grove I see on the regular in full sun looks like hell. Could be they all have greening, but doesnt explain why the partially shaded ones look so much better. Partially shaded doesnt mean they arent getting 6-8 hours of sun, it just means they arent getting the sun full blast from 6am-830pm(during the summer)
Best bet would be get a dwarf variety or a rooted cutting which also are dwarf. Wrap the whole tree in those nets that protect from greening. If it’s a lemon or sour orange or something it’s not necessary but I mean if there’s a variety you really like. Then I would periodically spray it with some neem oil or something to be double sure that disease and insects are at a minimum.
Even in South FL, it can be challenging to grow the rare artocarpus.
Breadfruit, jackfruit, the hybrid, kwai muk, and lakoocha are pretty bulletproof down there
What's tougher is the marang, cempedak, and SE Asian ones. To my knowledge, no one has done pedalai. But marang has been fruited.
Greenhouse wise the ultra tropical ones can not be fruited due to size restrictions. Now this is just a generalized rule, and some artocarpus stay smaller, eventually they still get too big for the regular greenhouse. Also, some artocarpus like the pedalai only fruit on mature leaves. And when you prune back a tree in the greenhouse, it forces them to make more immature leaves. So, it's a never ending cycle (ask my friend)
Now you could do jackfruit, hybrid, kwai muk, lakoocha, and some Chinese artocarpus in a greenhouse. Although they will get big eventually, pruning can make it happen. And these tend to fruit at smaller sizes also.
Tropical Fruit Hunters in Ohio fruited jackfruit, and several members here have some nice sized artocarpus up north too.
Hey there, the south side of my house is fairly close to my property line. I have junk trees that were used as posts for pepper vines but pepper doesn't work well in my area any more. These are currently shading the back of my house and patio and when I cut them down, as they don't provide fruit or good wood, my house is gonna get baked by the sun. The property line is about 8 meters to 4 meters away from the house. I was gonna plant a jackfruit tree every 4 meters at the boundary line and let them grow tall to block the sun as they tend to grow fairly tall and narrow where I live. I already have about 7 to 10 varieties of jackfruit, and about 20 trees so I don't really need more jackfruit and was wondering if anyone has any other suggestion for faster growing trees that are more vertical then horizontal? I am in the subtropics with very hot dry summers with rain season in fall and cool weather winter and spring.
Sadly if you live in Florida your trees will certainly die from HLB, NO MATTER what chemical you use. The only thing that has been found to work is covering the tree with the screening that the people use when growing under cups.
I second and third this as it has been my experience with over 3 dozen citrus trees over 7 years. Nothing I did stopped the psylid from infecting my trees except the protective netting. With that in place, citrus has been relatively easy to grow for me.
Sadly if you live in Florida your trees will certainly die from HLB, NO MATTER what chemical you use. The only thing that has been found to work is covering the tree with the screening that the people use when growing under cups.
My Xie Shans are starting to change color. They should ready to pick soon.
For Ponkan, when it is ripe, the skin will get a little puffy, so if you squeeze it, you can tell the skin is not tight to the inside flesh. You can always taste one fruit when you see it turn yellow/orange to see if it's sweet. If I leave the fruits ripe on the tree to long (2-3 wks after orange color) then the inside flesh will be dry with not much juice.
I have a large citrus tree which is multi-grafted in the front yard. That tree has some good size Ponkan branches that always has good tasting fruits. I think your green ponkan is the normal fruits and it will not turn color for another few months. My tree has many Ponkan fruits now similar to yours, but that is normal for my tree here. The fruits will turn color from November - January when my fruits are ripe here.
Here's my Ponkan fruits from previous years (ripen in December).
Does this not getting orange color in warm climates apply to other citrus or just satsumas? I have other types and wondering if I should do the same.
On a related note, do citrus need heat or cool to sweeten the fruit? I keep reading conflicting information.
Thanks again!
Citrus peels change color due to the loss of chlorophyll in the peel from cool weather (just like fall leaves up north). I believe you will only have an issue with your early season fruit not turning color. The mid and late season varieties should get enough cold to turn color. Valencias will go from green to orange and then back to green (around June if they make it that long) as chlorophyll comes back into the peel.
As to your other question, it is my understanding that warm weather durring ripening increases sugars while cool weather increases acids (flavor). Its the balance between the two that make the fruit taste good. Some fruits naturally have high sugars and others have high acids. That is why some varieties taste better when grown in California and others taste better when grown in Florida. That being said, a lot of old Crackers say that cool weather makes the fruit sweeter. I wonder if this is just the natural result of the ripening process or if there is an effect from the dry weather that comes with the winter months concentrating the sugars that are already in the fruit. I'm sure that made things crystal clear for you. lol!
I did as you suggested but the fruits were dry and bland. Do you think they may get juicer with time?
FruitGrower, I suspect that this crop of your fruits are already overripe and will only get worse with time. However, as Millet said the quality of future crops should improve as years go by.
I suggest you pick some of the greenest, least ripe-appearing fruit and see how they are. They may be better than the yellow ones. If they are, you should probably pick all of the fruits immediately and make a note to pick them green next year.
Absolutely the fruits of any citrus variety become better with the age of the tree. Each year the fruit will improve. Generally a 5 year old tree produces high quality fruit. I remember Dr. Malcolm Manners writing on the old forum, the very best fruit he ever ate was from a 25 year old grapefruit tree growing on the grounds of Florida Southern University.
These may be optimally ripe while still green even in cooler areas. I suggest picking one of the yellow ones and see how it is.
I recall reading that in very warm locations such as yours citrus may not ever color up properly and if you wait for orange it may spoiled. I have an off-season crop of Dekopan/Shiranui/Sumo now that is still only half yellow but I think is actually overripe, because it matured during summer.
Can't really speak to the AP since its not the commonly grown here.
The bud wood was sold to me as arka sahan, but its doesn't seem to be that either, on another thread a few other growers chimed in and said it was probably AP.
Either way, the fruit isn't great, trying to top work it now
The other two are spot on.
Finally has a prime Dream and it certainly deserves all the hype it gets from the Florida annona growers.
I'm in the market for an early season mango. Location is coastal, zone 11a. I want as many opinions as I can get on these two varieties.
Thanks in advance.