The Tropical Fruit Forum

Mr. Hagen, please reveal yourself...

"Wow, that looks way underripe for a Glenn.  Have your other Glens started to color up any ?  I know its not but the inside looks like a Carrie."

Hi Rob, I think you might have misunderstood me...I picked that Glenn knowing it was NOT ripe and completely green because it had a defect (there was a cut on the back side of it). None of my Glenns or Cogshall have colored up yet...still several weeks before any of them are ripe.

I was lucky the Glenn ripened enough to eat since it was very green when I picked it. It wasn't as sweet as I would have liked but good enough to eat. BTW, I'm one of the minority here. Ya, this one is for sure a Glenn. Especially since Every Carrie I've ever tasted (not that many to be fair) I have NOT liked. I'm not a fan of Carrie mango so far...I've not tasted any I liked.

I was not questioning your knowledge that it was ripe or not ripe, just stating a fact that it was very much underripe.  I am surprised that you feel your Glenns are several weeks from being ready.  While not all Glenns are ready here (though they should be beginning or in the middle of harvest by now), all of what I have seen have significantly more color to them.

As to your statement about Carrie...glad to know I have another member on my team. 

hard to tell but looks live both are vegetative...

I mixed Copper Solution and Iron Solution together in my sprayer hoping to save time.  The mixture turned brown (probably rust) from a chemical reaction between the copper and iron solutions.  I would like to make a one mixture foliar spray that's good for everything.  Can you mix the sulpher solution with the copper without a chemical reaction?

Why would you be applying both sulfur and copper at the same time ?

Quote from: BENDERSGROVE on June 03, 2012, 09:44:23 AM

Quote from: bsbullie on June 03, 2012, 09:38:18 AM

Quote from: BENDERSGROVE on June 03, 2012, 09:25:33 AM

Quote from: bsbullie on June 03, 2012, 09:12:51 AM

Quote from: HMHausman on June 03, 2012, 08:01:30 AM

My property is  2.39 acres.  Of course the house, driveway, patio/pool and large ficus trees take up a considerable portion of the planting area.  I have somewhere just over 300 trees planted out.   Of course, lots more small stuff in pots.  I would love to get a hold of the 2.5 acres behind my house.  It is part of a 10 acre tract that just went into foreclosure last year.  That is a bit of a pipe dream, but if the bank can't sell the whole 10 acre tract as a result of the weak real estate market, I am hoping they might like to carve a portion of the land with least access and sell it for a bargain basement price.  If that ever happens, I will really be dangerous.

Harry

Harry - market is not that weak, especially for the buyers.  Is the entire 10 vacant?  Is the 2.5 acre tract a separate parcel (with its own folio)?  Chances are the bank will not waste their time with carving out a piece like that.  If it is within your budget, you may be better off going after the whole thing and then selling off remaining 7.5 acres.

I sat on the planning and zoning board for Davie as its chairman for 8 years, I can tell you that the properties in the acreage section out west are starting to sell like hotcakes,many properties are way undervalued,The main problem you may face Harry,is that in order to subdivide the property it would have to be re-platted which makes the cost very prohibitive,but should you ever have an issue or a problem with the town,give me a call, I would be glad to help you in anyway I can,But remember today the way these banks are operating it is probably more difficult to get a straight answer from the bank than to deal with the town.Mike

It is not that costly to have it replatted/carved out so long as you are not changing the zoning use.  As this is what I do, should you go this route I can assist on helping with the carveout and/or replatting if necessary.

I won't argue that point,being that that is your business,bought dealing with Davie and Broward county I can tell you it is not cheap or fun,I know of many developers who would agree,guess price is all relative,but I don't think we will ever see a better buying opportunity in our lifetimes than we have right now especially for acreage,the best part is that we now have a property appraiser that is friendly to tax exempt true agricultural properties.that is a good thing.

From what I have seen, my guess is that they would also treat developers differently than an individual, and not necessarily in a good way.

Quote from: bsbullie on June 03, 2012, 09:12:51 AM

Quote from: HMHausman on June 03, 2012, 08:01:30 AM

My property is  2.39 acres.  Of course the house, driveway, patio/pool and large ficus trees take up a considerable portion of the planting area.  I have somewhere just over 300 trees planted out.   Of course, lots more small stuff in pots.  I would love to get a hold of the 2.5 acres behind my house.  It is part of a 10 acre tract that just went into foreclosure last year.  That is a bit of a pipe dream, but if the bank can't sell the whole 10 acre tract as a result of the weak real estate market, I am hoping they might like to carve a portion of the land with least access and sell it for a bargain basement price.  If that ever happens, I will really be dangerous.

Harry

Harry - market is not that weak, especially for the buyers.  Is the entire 10 vacant?  Is the 2.5 acre tract a separate parcel (with its own folio)?  Chances are the bank will not waste their time with carving out a piece like that.  If it is within your budget, you may be better off going after the whole thing and then selling off remaining 7.5 acres.

I sat on the planning and zoning board for Davie as its chairman for 8 years, I can tell you that the properties in the acreage section out west are starting to sell like hotcakes,many properties are way undervalued,The main problem you may face Harry,is that in order to subdivide the property it would have to be re-platted which makes the cost very prohibitive,but should you ever have an issue or a problem with the town,give me a call, I would be glad to help you in anyway I can,But remember today the way these banks are operating it is probably more difficult to get a straight answer from the bank than to deal with the town.Mike

It is not that costly to have it replatted/carved out so long as you are not changing the zoning use.  As this is what I do, should you go this route I can assist on helping with the carveout and/or replatting if necessary.

Thanks Samuel, it was very tasty 

Wow...another late blooming mango tree...blooming in June? Good luck, hope it matures before it gets too cold in your area.

Time is relevant to location those growing tropicals in the great white north.

My property is  2.39 acres.  Of course the house, driveway, patio/pool and large ficus trees take up a considerable portion of the planting area.  I have somewhere just over 300 trees planted out.   Of course, lots more small stuff in pots.  I would love to get a hold of the 2.5 acres behind my house.  It is part of a 10 acre tract that just went into foreclosure last year.  That is a bit of a pipe dream, but if the bank can't sell the whole 10 acre tract as a result of the weak real estate market, I am hoping they might like to carve a portion of the land with least access and sell it for a bargain basement price.  If that ever happens, I will really be dangerous.

Harry

Harry - market is not that weak, especially for the buyers.  Is the entire 10 vacant?  Is the 2.5 acre tract a separate parcel (with its own folio)?  Chances are the bank will not waste their time with carving out a piece like that.  If it is within your budget, you may be better off going after the whole thing and then selling off remaining 7.5 acres.

Quote from: bsbullie on June 02, 2012, 11:22:35 PM

If you are going with pesticides, and so long as you don't mind a disagreement from a certain Sheemodhan, Imidacloprid, in the form of Bayer Advanced fruit and vegetable (available at Home Depot), drenches, 2x per year, as well as a commercial product or two available at Winfield Solutions, are your pest bet to keep these in control (do NOT spray the tree with Imidacloprid, it is meant to be used as a drench, not a foliar spray).  Other methods of attack are the "squish" method, the "leave it alone" method, or researching and "trying" your hand with beneficial nematodes.

A systemic on a lychee tree in the ground? That's insane! As Oscar said above, you'll be eating that imidacloprid with the fruit.

There are benefical nematodes that you can buy online that may work to combat the larvae of the weevil. Check out Arbico Organic's line of beneficial nematodes to try and combat the problem in a safer way.

I used beneficial nematodes a few years ago at my mom's house when the weevils were attacking my Indian jujube tree and the following season I barely had a problem with them. It's not an instant fix but I rather not deal with those poisons on fruit trees in the ground that I may be eating fruit from in the future. All of those chemicals like sevin and imidacloprid are linked to killing beneficial insects and are possible carcinogens.

I guaranty you it has been done by some.  Again, I didn't say I recommended it.  One this I wonder is what is the true time period that it stays in the tree, or if it ever really dissipates.  For instance, if the tree had no fruit and you used it today, would it still effect the fruit setting next year ?

Also, based on it's label's uses, do you think using it on a vegetable plant is any better ?  Don't blame me, blame Bayer for producing it for this use and the USDA for allowing it.

As I told you, I purchased a bottle, or possibly wasted the $14 or so on a bottle, as it is sitting unopened in my garage still wrapped in the Home Depot bag I brought it home in. 

Quote from: bsbullie on June 02, 2012, 12:23:15 AM

Shmuraeehan - I have had a couple of customers ask about mamey sapodilla when referring to sapodilla.  If my memory is correct, their ethnicity was from the Caribbean islands.

As far as recommendations, Hasya is excellent and Alano is a very consistent quality sap (at least in SFla).  I would stay away from Silas Woods mainly due to its small size (low flesh to seed/skin ratio).

That's interesting. I'm not sure if I've ever heard anyone ask about mamey sapodilla at the nursery. Do you know which Caribbean island they were from? In Trinidad for example they call the Mammea americana, Mamey sapote (pronounced 'see poat') but you said they were referring to sapodilla so I am not sure.

No, I don't know their origin and yes, I agree that it makes no sense.  I ask them if the mean the americana or even the mamee apple but both insisted it was a sap and they purchased a sap, so who knows...possibly just misinformed and weren't interested in learning??

It may take more than just water to remove them...before any pesticides are used I would try the soap water spray.  I would also check out your other plants/shrubs in your hard as aphids are very common and they may have originated elsewhere.  As always, you must eliminate the source/host to fix the problem outright.

The sri lankan weevils are devouring the new growth ( and the old) on my lychee:    The weevils haven't eaten anything else-

I broke down and sprayed some Seven. Is anyone else having this problem? 

If you are going with pesticides, and so long as you don't mind a disagreement from a certain Sheemodhan, Imidacloprid, in the form of Bayer Advanced fruit and vegetable (available at Home Depot), drenches, 2x per year, as well as a commercial product or two available at Winfield Solutions, are your pest bet to keep these in control (do NOT spray the tree with Imidacloprid, it is meant to be used as a drench, not a foliar spray).  Other methods of attack are the "squish" method, the "leave it alone" method, or researching and "trying" your hand with beneficial nematodes.

The best citrus for immunity from pests are the variegated varieties, Centennial Kumquat, Variegated Pink Lemon and Variegated Red Navel.  The Centennial Kumquat is a heavy producer and the Variegated Pink Lemon is also a consistent producer.  I do not have any proven info on the Variegated Red Navel. 

It is the fact the plants are variegated that keeps the pests away.  This is also true of the Variegated Guava.