Author Topic: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada! Lycheeluva chime in!  (Read 12932 times)

samuelforest

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Hi Greenthumbs! Me and my friend just built a grow room with panda film for the winter. What is nice about that setup is that I can remove the panda film each summer, because it's mounted on roler shade. The room is 8 feet by 6 feet 8 inches. I will put soon a 1000w mh grow light. I did too an update on the mango by video aslo for the grow room.

Here are they:[IMG]

« Last Edit: July 31, 2012, 12:04:48 PM by samuelforest »

samuelforest

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2012, 09:05:54 PM »
Sorry for my english, as some of you know my first language is french.

Jackfruitwhisperer69

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2012, 10:40:25 AM »
Hi Samual,
No need to apologize for your english ;) Je comprends bien votre anglais :)

That's very clever to use panda film for a grow room 8) I went low-tech ;D Just took 2 metal frames and acacia wood to make the green house stable with wire. I found a roll of thick plastic at my uncle's house and then used it to covered the whole naked frame  ;D...that's all...nothing fancy ;D It worked like a charm for me :)










As long as you keep them alive and happy...that's mighty fine ;)

Thanks for sharing and good luck with you grow room :) I hope you get some Canadian mangos soon...fingers crossed! ;)
Time is like a river.
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samuelforest

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2012, 01:23:58 PM »
Wow! It's beautiful :) You made it the redneck way! Strong and heavy duty ;D As long as it works and your plants are happy it is not nescessary to make it fancy. Does the temperature raise a lot when the greenhouse is closed? Thanks for your wishes!

Ethan

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2012, 02:15:56 PM »
Great idea Samuel, that makes it so easy!  Good luck with your trees this winter.

-Ethan

Very nice also Steven, it if fun to see different people's setups.

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2012, 02:52:18 PM »
SAMMY!!!!!!!

Way to go Canada on the Olympic Gold grow room!!!!!   and Yeah, your English was fine - I thought
you could have been from Torrance, California or perhaps "the Valley".......   :-\

Now you can start some serious growing....Good luck ami!!!!!!


Mango Fang

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2012, 03:15:57 PM »
Wow! It's beautiful :) You made it the redneck way! Strong and heavy duty ;D As long as it works and your plants are happy it is not nescessary to make it fancy. Does the temperature raise a lot when the greenhouse is closed? Thanks for your wishes!

 ;D ;D ;D

You bet, the temperature rises :o The plants stay nice and warm throughout the night...which keep them trees chirpy :)
I only used the greenhouse  for only few months...till spring has stabilized and no risk of cold temperature at night. I need to build another permanent greenhouse before winter to keep all my plants happy this winter :)

-Ethan
Very nice also Steven, it if fun to see different people's setups.
Hi Ethan,
 :) I was a bit embarrassed with my ''redneck'' contraption ;D...I just share them pics to show that you don't need something fancy to keep them seedlings alive and kick'n ;D
Time is like a river.
You cannot touch the same water twice, because the flow that has passed will never pass again.
Enjoy every moment of your life!

samuelforest

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2012, 04:41:21 PM »
Thanks Ethan :)

Hey Mangodog! How's the maha doing and all the other mangos? I'm waiting for a new update! I guess the harvest is not so far away for you growers from SoCal? Thanks for the compliments on the grow room :D. Does peoploe from Torrance speak weird??? :-\ I'm still learning english.

I just wanted to know Jack because I might build one...I don't know if it is possible, but build it 10' by 10' with plastic just like you. I don't know if I could extend the growing season for like a month or two with this? Could it protect from frosts?

And guys, should I put panda film on the floor and the top or it's a waste?

Thanks

Jackfruitwhisperer69

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2012, 05:16:27 PM »
I just wanted to know Jack because I might build one...I don't know if it is possible, but build it 10' by 10' with plastic just like you. I don't know if I could extend the growing season for like a month or two with this? Could it protect from frosts?
And guys, should I put panda film on the floor and the top or it's a waste?
Thanks

Samuel,
Yes, you can extend the season for a month or two, in around fall. But, with very cold winter like you have, I don't think this will be of much help.  Is this for your mango?
On the frost issue :-\ I cannot answer that question. Since, I don't have frost over here, only freak'n strong cold wind :'(.

I think it's a good idea! To put panda film both on top and bottom ;)
Time is like a river.
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Enjoy every moment of your life!

CoPlantNut

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2012, 06:57:06 PM »
Samuel,

Looks good!

I would suggest putting reflective film on the top and bottom to increase light usage.  However, stretching panda film across the top unsupported may not work as it has a tendency to sag and stretch over time, especially once you have a hot light inside.  Putting it on the floor would help reflect more light and help protect the floor from water spills, but it also can be slippery to walk on, and if water or humidity gets under the film on top of the floor it can cause mold problems.   One thing you could do cheaply is to raise the plants off the floor a few inches on shelves, and put the film on top of the shelves (or just under them) so you would get air movement between the film and the floor, and still protect from water spills-- but then you can't walk on it so easily, and you lose some plant growing height.  My last temporary plant growing room was set up that way, with plastic hanging under the shelves the plants went on, draped underneath so it would channel all spilled water to one end of the plant room where I collected it in buckets.

Every time I've made a new plant grow room I've learned a lot, especially after using it for a few months.  There's always things I discover that I would do differently, just like with growing plants themselves!

   Kevin



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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2012, 07:44:49 PM »
Jack, It's for all my plants, It doesn't get that cold in october, but I just look and the temperatures at night are close to freezing same as in April, so I won't attemp this finally.

Kevin, I won't have any molds or water spill problems because it's in my garage. I don't know if I will be able to put some panda film up because I'll need to put the light above the grow room or close too, but I'll see if I can :). An idea came out, I will panda film at the bottom and put a clear plastic over it to not damage it when I'm walking on it! Is it a good idea? Height won't be a problem my garage is very high I could have a 12' mango tree if I wanted and it wouldn't be a problem :)

Thanks guys!

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2012, 09:11:13 PM »
Kevin, I won't have any molds or water spill problems because it's in my garage. I don't know if I will be able to put some panda film up because I'll need to put the light above the grow room or close too, but I'll see if I can :). An idea came out, I will panda film at the bottom and put a clear plastic over it to not damage it when I'm walking on it! Is it a good idea? Height won't be a problem my garage is very high I could have a 12' mango tree if I wanted and it wouldn't be a problem :)

Samuel,

You can always make a "tent" out of the panda film over the light, like I did in one of my previous plant room incarnations:



For this I had just taped mylar to the sides of the board my light-moving rail was mounted to, and the other end of the mylar was attached to the top of the "walls".  For this temporary plant room I had concrete cinder blocks holding up 3 parallel 12-foot long 4-inch by 4-inch lumber, with black plastic draped over the 4x4's such that any water would spill to one end of the plant room (the end in the first picture-- clear plastic is hung over where the draped plastic would empty out any water).  I put plastic shelves spanning the 4x4's and put the plants on those so I didn't have to use saucers for the pots and could flush the pots with water if I wanted.  It worked rather well for something that took me a few hours to build, but it didn't keep in the humidity or heat very well due to all the openings.  Humidity from the plants would condense on the windows to my basement and started to grow mold, so that wasn't good either.

Putting clear plastic on top of the panda film on the floor will offer some protection, but also another layer to slip on, and the clear plastic isn't really "clear"- it steals a lot of light.  It is likely to get dirty and even less clear over time, so I would just put panda film on the floor with no clear plastic on top.  Such thin plastic is likely to be cut and torn over time by walking on it, so you may need to replace it after a while, but in my opinion another layer of clear plastic on top wouldn't make it last much longer.  My current plant room floor is 1/2-inch thick white UV-resistant HDPE plastic meant for boat decks or cutting boards and it works great, but it wasn't cheap or easy to get- in fact it was the most expensive single part of my plant room.  It should last for decades though!

   Kevin

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2012, 09:22:54 PM »
Thank you very much Kevin :) It is nice to see other people growing things in northern climates ;D. The bad news is that mean my job is not over...I'll work on this.

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2012, 09:35:27 PM »
Samuel,

The job is never done- there's always more to do!

In case you haven't seen it from some of my previous posts, you can see pictures of the construction of my current plant room at:

http://photobucket.com/cprc

Disclaimer: This room took me months to build...

   Kevin

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2012, 09:49:22 PM »
I just looked Kevin and I don't have enough panda film left to do a top for the room...there's still 50 inches left over my room where there's nothing. I won't put anything there for the moment even if I can still put panda film on the top, because I'm scared of burning it with the light because it will be relatively be close to the top. I might change my mind, we will see. Thanks for the pictures by the way ;D

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2012, 09:57:04 PM »
This is amazing! Your room is so nice ;) It is really well built it should stay strong for years. What's the size of it? Just wondering I'm curious, how much did it cost you? Mine only cost me 58$ for now and with the lights I guess 358$+ a top maybye 388$? Did you put any reflective material or you painted it flat white?

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #16 on: July 30, 2012, 10:37:21 PM »
Samuel,

If you get a light mover to move your light back and forth, you'll have happier plants and you won't have the "hot spots" that come from having the light in one place all the time.  Bamboo poles could be used to cheaply support reflective film at the top.

My current plant room is 15 feet by 12 feet.  Plants just keep growing; no matter how big you make it, you'll always wish it was larger. 

My plant room ceiling and walls are lined with "Orca film" which is similar to Panda film, but is flat white, doesn't stretch, puncture or tear easily, and (of course) is therefore more expensive.  The Orca film is hung inside 1/16" PVC plastic sheets which provide the air- and water-tight shell of the room.  If you look at the descriptions for the photos on the link I included above you can find what materials I used and why I used them. 

The whole room was expensive...  About $800 in wood, $400 in screws, $700 in aluminum tubing and angle, $2500 in plastic flooring, $800 in rubber, $600 in PVC plastic sheets,  $700 in Orca film, $1000 in lights, $300 in plumbing, $2200 in rust-proof shelving on casters, and about $500 in other materials, so it was around $10,000 in total.  Keep in mind that this is my 8th incarnation of a plant room, each building upon the learning experiences from the past, and I tried this time to make one that would last, work well, be easy to clean and maintain, and fit the most plants possible.  I've been told by a couple real estate agents that I could probably sell the house based on the plant room alone and recover my costs- though the buyer would probably not be growing ornamental or fruiting plants.

   Kevin

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2012, 10:06:51 AM »
Wow, very nice. As you said the medicinal marijuana is legal. I wouldn't be surprise it would been sold fast  ;D Another question, what is the plumbing for?

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2012, 10:43:22 AM »
Whats Panda film and why use it? Samuel do you grow any temperate fruits outdoors too?

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2012, 11:10:04 AM »
SWRancher,

Panda film is plastic sheeting (about 4 mil, if I recall correctly) that is black on one side and white on the other side.  The white side is used for reflecting light back into a plant growing area, while the black side absorbs any light that's going through the film so you can't see the lights on the other side.  It is basically a replacement for mylar, and has some advantages over mylar film, not least of which is that you don't get blinded by mirror-like reflections of very bright light bulbs when you're inside the plant room.  If the edges are sealed together with tape, panda film, mylar or other plastic sheeting can be used to contain humidity and heat within a plant growing area as well.

Samuel,

My grow room is basically the basement equivalent of a greenhouse- a completely water-tight and air-tight structure.  I water and mist plants with a hose, and the water that runs through the pots (as well as spilled dirt, leaves, etc) is carried away by a sloped water-tight floor to a sewer drain.  I don't have to worry about puddles forming on the floor.

The plumbing supplies were for:
  • the drain filter system (so I don't clog my sewer lines with sand or leaves)
  • Connecting the plant room to my house water supply so I have access to water inside the plant room via hose bibs
  • a water filtration and storage system which removes chlorine from the tap water and allows it to reach ambient temperature before use (it comes out of the faucet at 40 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter here- tropical plants don't like that!)
  • a fertilizer mixing tank and pump so I can mix up 20 gallons of water-soluble fertilizer at a time and adjust the PH before using it to water the plants via hose;
  • an in-room sink which I use for washing pots, hands, etc. without having to be concerned about clogging up my sewer (the drain filter captures it)
  • the various pipes required to move the water between all of these things.

   Kevin

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada!
« Reply #20 on: July 31, 2012, 12:04:23 PM »
Wow Kevin, really your a god! I don't what's your job, but your good in building things :D It might be ralated to your job.

SWRancher, yea I do grow I couple of temperate fruits. I have a 10 year old bartlet pear tree, an asian pear tree (Nashi pear), rasberries, strawberries, Kiwis and that's all. I am not a huge fan of apples and cherries, so that's why I don't have those trees.

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I write computer software for a living; after sitting in front of a computer all day, I'm not really interested in sitting in the evenings, so I garden and build things.

   Kevin

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???A natural talent!

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I'm not good as kevin in building thing, but i also have my hard time keeping mango alive here. Luckily (for me) my winters are ways hotter then yours, but we should be more or less at same latitude.
Well, i came up with this structure, that solves, for me, a problem similiar to the one you might be experiencing.
If you aren't scared by my messy english, take a look. I don't assure it can work for you, but it can be an idea.

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=358.0
Italian fruit forum

I want to buy/trade central asia apricots. Contact me in PM if interested.

samuelforest

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I knew that you build a structure, I follewed you on garden web with the same name. I remember last year you had a unusual cold winter, but your mango tree survived. I never thought that it could be so cold in Italy in winter. It is truly a well built stucture. The temperature you posted, was it without a heater and during the day? I'm really surprised your mango survived at those temperature, 6celsius and lower is really cold for a mango. I think it lacked from a embryo, because it was too cold when the tree flowered. I will never be scared of your english and I can't make my opinion on this since I'm french. Our winters are way colder as you said. We can get -20 to -30 sometimes, but not for a long time. Do you plan to buy another mango? How's the fruiting seedling doing?

Thanks by the way for the idea :)

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Thank you for your kind words.
No, I didn't use any heater till February, when we got that cold front from russia, which bought here 15 exceptionally cold days (cold because the temperature never raised over 0C (32F) for over a week, and here it is pretty exceptional - while the absolute minimum wasn't so low, -6C (21F) at max). Every heating is due the heat stored in the water drums, heated from the sun. So that temperature I posted are without the heater. I didn't post the temperature with the heater on in february, because i think they weren't meaningfull in the context of a solar passive structure, and after the middle of february we didn't experience any serious cold front till spring.
The data presented are obtained that way: every week i opened the structure, went in, and read the maximum-minimun thermometer, registered the minimum, resetted, then close the structure. Later, at home, i watched for meteo sites, controlled the closest meteo station (which happens to be just 2 km away from my home) for the minimum of temperature of the week, and registered it too. I suppose (but this may indeed be false) that the minimun temperature in the greenhouse happened the same day of the minimun temperature outside; anyway over the week the minimun inside and the minimu outside seems to keep 10C (18F) degree of difference.
Yes, 6C is really cold but i can assure that the plant managed to surive (even if with minor leaf damage) even to lower temperatures. During the cold front of february the thermometer showed a minimun of 3C, and that temperature may have lasted for 2 weeks (I didn't open the strucutre during those weeks to avoid lowering the internal temperature even more, but this what I read when i opened it). I can't tell for sure, but this may have happened.
What I can tell you for sure is that 2 years ago, after a some snow, 3 mangos (1 kensingotn pride and 2 seedling) managed to survive without any damage to a snow-covered unheated greenhouse, where the temperature remained at 1°C for 48 hours. The plant were left there on purpose, to test their cold tolerance. They were in pots.
Regarding fruting, I found two interesting thing on the pakistany book someone posted here some time ago. 4.4°C destroys fruits and flowers. Having less than 15,5°C will kill pollen tubes. The max pollen viability happens when night temperatures are over 17°C. Moreover, that book states: "It is observed that low night temperatures of 10-15C days and day temperatures below 27C can induce flowering, but fruit will be small and seedless and may fall before ripening. In some varieties flowers are damaged at low temperature of even at 10C, if such temperatures occur at full bloom."
Actually I never got under 13°C since the start of the flowering but I guess that it was still in the "risky zone", and I must have had those temperatures too soon. Since un unmounted my structure during flowring (April-May), I guess that next years I'll keep that mounted till june.
Yes, I'll buy some more mangos, I must find the one wich works for here! :D But since apparently grafting seems so easy I guess that next years I'll buy maybe scions, because importing plants is a pain!
I'll updage the tread with some pictues at the end of summer, when I'll know ho much the plant has been able to grow this summer. :)
Italian fruit forum

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samuelforest

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Thanks Pancrazio for the answers :) My mango bloom in early june and I know why...We had cool temperature in May and some nights touched 6C and days with only 15C which induced bloom in June. We had a heat wave when it started to flower. Mangoes take a lot of temperature :o My nights now are close to 15C and days 26C (this is the average). Tommorow will be 32C, but I don't know if my relatively cold temperature will cause my mango to not ripen.

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Forgot to ask you something Kevin. Did the bulb explode once in your grow room? I found a great kit, but it doesn't have a closed reflector....

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Hello,

I've never had a bulb explode on me personally, but I've always run in an enclosed reflector.  I was fairly popular with my dorm-mates in college as I could give advice about growing plants in closets, and I've seen half a dozen HID bulbs explode; all were in unenclosed reflectors.  Three of the exploded bulbs started fires; luckily our dorm walls were concrete cinder blocks and only clothes really burned.  One person I knew in college accidentally touched the bulb while it was running and ended up with severe burns and chunks of broken 800-1000 degree glass in his arm.  The good news is that the glass cauterizes wounds it creates on contact, but he was severely scarred.

I've never seen a bulb explode in an enclosed reflector, although they still can if you mistreat them.  They are more likely to explode in an unenclosed reflector because they aren't protected from accidental exposure to water or skin, which causes instant failure of the bulb jacket (and if you accidentally touch a bulb you'll be badly burned as well, possibly also with shards of broken glass and quartz in your flesh).  I personally would never use or suggest a reflector without a tempered glass lens; they aren't that much more expensive and in my opinion the extra expense is well worth it.  All it takes is one exploded bulb starting a fire to make the tempered glass lens seem well worth the cost.

   Kevin

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Thanks Kevin for the advice, you scared me enough to buy a closed reflector :) I will look for that.


CoPlantNut

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I should also point out that several of the HID bulb failures I've seen were caused by improper cleaning of the bulb before installation (you can't touch it with your skin- the oils you leave behind can cause it to explode!) or running it well beyond its intended life (it is best to replace the bulbs every 12-14 months).  Never buy a used HID bulb and run it unless you really, really trust the person that sold it to you on how long they had used it.

   Kevin

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Thanks Kevin for the advice, you scared me enough to buy a closed reflector :) I will look for that.

Samuel,

I've accidentally hit my head or hands on the reflectors in my basement more times than I can count, even though I've tried to be careful.  Having the lens on makes the difference between cursing at yourself and having to go to the hospital; it is certainly worth the extra cost.

   Kevin

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I know, I had HID's before and I always cleaned them with rubbing alcohol before putting them in there sockets with gloves on.
I will only burn myself if I'm at least 7 foot tall :). It will be at that height so no worries about that. As I said My plants could easily get to 10-12 feet tall and it wouldn't be a problem :).I plan also to change my bulbs about every 6 months, so about every season. I looked and on Ebay it would cost about a 100-150$. I don't know if it is less expensive in your area? Tell me if it is not worth it to buy on Ebay and if I should go to my hydroponic store. Is the equipment cheaper?

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Tommorow will be 32C, but I don't know if my relatively cold temperature will cause my mango to not ripen.

Apparently, there isn't so much need about high temperatures, if low temperature (but still high enough to let the plant grow) are kept for long enough.
Building that structure has been an expensive vice for me. So I searched for long a method to predict if mangos can ripe in my place, before building it. I found one, the degree/day method.

Basically it works as follows: there's a base temperature, which is the temperature that allows the plant to grow; every day that has a temperature ABOVE the base temperature counts as an accumulation of degrees. When the degrees accumulated are enough (in the days between fruit set and ripening), the fruit should be ripen. (More information here: http://www.freshplaza.com/news_detail.asp?id=56494 )
As you can imagine, every variety has its own value of "accumulated degree" needed. Earliest varieties need less accumulated degree, while late varieties need more. The amount needed should be, anyhow, climate independent.
Of course, once you know the amount needed for your variety, you can foretell if, given you climate, the fruit will ripen, and when it will happen.
Unlucky i haven't been able to find a list of degrees/days for many mango cultivars. I found anyhow that for Kensigton Pride mangoes, in some cases, 1000 degrees days with a base temperature of 12.5 can be enough.

Last year i managed to get a somewhat ripen Glenn from my tree. It ripened on 28 August.
Since the flowering ended on 15th may, i can do the calculation (using this site: http://www.degreedays.net - remember to select cooling because you want to know ho much it goes ABOVE the base temperature, not UNDER - this tool was intended for air conditioning).
If you do that for Florence, Italy from middle of may till 1st september you get that my Gleen has had (before ripening, since flowering) 1102 degree/days with a base temp of 12,5°C, wich is in good correspondence with the calculations.
Italian fruit forum

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samuelforest

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I don't really understand...Could you calculate it for me? My bloom ended about July first.

Pancrazio

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I can. Send me a pm with your location and the closest meteo station.
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I want to buy/trade central asia apricots. Contact me in PM if interested.

CoPlantNut

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I know, I had HID's before and I always cleaned them with rubbing alcohol before putting them in there sockets with gloves on.
I will only burn myself if I'm at least 7 foot tall :). It will be at that height so no worries about that. As I said My plants could easily get to 10-12 feet tall and it wouldn't be a problem :).I plan also to change my bulbs about every 6 months, so about every season. I looked and on Ebay it would cost about a 100-150$. I don't know if it is less expensive in your area? Tell me if it is not worth it to buy on Ebay and if I should go to my hydroponic store. Is the equipment cheaper?

I think my last 1000W MH bulb ran me $80 at a local store.  You'll have to look or call around to see if any of your local stores are cheaper than Ebay.

   Kevin

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I'll look for this Kevin :) Thanks.

samuelforest

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If I have the chance Kevin, would it be better if I use a hps when my plants are flowering and fruiting and then go with a mh vegetative grow?

CoPlantNut

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If I have the chance Kevin, would it be better if I use a hps when my plants are flowering and fruiting and then go with a mh vegetative grow?

Switching to HPS lights for flowering and fruiting works best for annual crops- those that will die after they flower or fruit.  The vast majority of advice on growing plants under HID lights is based on growing an annual (illegal) plant, and the goal there is to get the plant to a certain size and then have it put all of its energy into flowering.  When grown under only HPS light, most plants tend to get leggy and develop leaves and stems which can't handle actual sunlight or light breezes.  This may be OK if you're growing an annual plant that will never be put outside, but for tropical trees I think you would be better off encouraging compact, robust growth.  After all, you want the plant to keep living after it flowers and fruits so that you can have a crop again next year-- the people who switch to HPS bulbs for flowering aren't aiming for that; they want as many flowers as they can get before cutting down the whole plant and starting over.

I think it would be far better to spend extra money on a good MH bulb with extra red in the spectrum than it would be to buy a separate HPS ballast and bulb.  If you have the money to get both a MH and HPS setup and run them at the same time, that can work (it is hard to get too much light when growing indoors!) but from my experience things bloom and ripen just fine under a good MH light.

  Kevin

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Ok thanks Kevin :) I was just wondering because I'm buying a swithable ballast. I'll follow your advice!

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Re: My new grow room + update on the mango tree in Canada! Lycheeluva chime in!
« Reply #41 on: September 16, 2012, 07:49:44 PM »
Here's an update everyone :)! As some of you suggested I made a top about 26'' in height and cover the floor with panda film. Kevin suggested to me to buy a light mover. Since I thought it was a little bit overpriced, I made one!!! A DIY! Basically it is a wardrobe slide with wardrobe wheels, very simple. The only bad side is that I need to move it by myself... I brought a 240v wire near my ballast with a timer and everthing works perfectly :)

Here's some pictures when the room is open:







Here is the homemade light mover:


 

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