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Using less Nitrogen and more Potassium and soluble Silicate, would also improve hardiness. If you don't already have a lot of Calcium in your soil, add that too.
The soft velcro ties work well in storms and have lots of give.I buy the coils and chop to the length I need.They are easily removable and re-usable
If this season's new growth on the atemoya is six feet or more, you can prune it back to 4-5 feet, and then remove two leaves, starting two leaves back from the cut.
Thanks for all the great information on how people stake trees. I have have had bad luck with tying a tree in one spot, as bsbullie explained, it can cause the tree to snap at the tie point (happened on a hong kong orchid for me). With this tree, the fault is with the material used for the ties. I use raffia because it will break rather than girdle a tree so I don't have to worry about tying a tree tightly and then not loosening it soon enough. However, I think I need to switch to that stretchy plastic as the tie material. The raffia weakens when it is wet and although this particular tree was tied in at least 10 places, all broke. The plastic would not have this problem. This tree was small enough that the stake was not in danger of pulling over (and didn't - it was still standing after the tree broke). However, on more top heavy trees, I will stake them like this, then add 3 tie down lines to secure the stake. Here's an example:This peach tree nearly got knocked over by high winds last year (its first year in ground). This staking system stabilized it, and this year it was productive and is strong enough not to need a stake. I have heard with atemoyas that they grow vigorously when very young, then do not grow much again. Is this true? Just curious as I think about how I will shape new growth...