I don't believe it is possible to ever prescribe a watering schedule for potted plants; it varies tremendously depending on the conditions the plant is kept in. Full sun, warmer weather, lower humidity, high wind, even the number of pest insects the plant may have can all make the plant need more water.
The best way I've found of knowing when a potted plant needs water is by judging the weight of the pot. If you lift it when you know it is well-watered such as just after potting it up, and then when you know it is dry at some later point, you'll start to get a feel for what the "ideal weight" should be. You don't even have to lift the whole pot; you can lift one side up to see how heavy it is. This doesn't work as well for clay pots; the heavier pot makes the water-content-weight harder to judge.
After a few months or years of taking care of the plant, you'll notice the patterns in how much water it needs and be able to predictably water it without having to weigh it. For new plants or if I'm ever in question, I still lift the pots to judge how much water they need.
For container growing in general, there is a big difference between growing in a container for a few years with the intent of planting it in the ground, and growing a plant with the intent of keeping it in a container for the rest of it's life. Normal potting soils and plastic pots work great for the former, but I'm a big fan of fabric pots and gritty mix for long-term container plants. Fabric pots have never blown over in the wind for me (and it is quite windy here). They form perfect, well-branched, dense root systems and tend to grow bigger, more vigorous plants for me than solid-sided plastic pots, or even clay. They do need watering more often than solid-sided pots in low humidity or especially windy conditions, but in constant high humidity (75-80% in my grow room) they don't seem to need more water than solid plastic pots. For annuals it doesn't make a big difference in plant growth, but after a couple years the benefits really become apparent.
I use the gritty mix, but never use sand; it doesn't drain very well, even though it seems like it should. For in-ground things sandy soils can work, but in pots I've noticed that only bog-adapted plants seem to do better growing with any sand in the mix.
I'm not a fan of adding time-release fertilizer to potted plants, because you can't really take it back out if you ever need or want to. You can shock many plants into blooming and fruiting by completely eliminating fertilizer for a while; in pots this is easier to do than in the ground and sometimes it takes only a 3-6 week period of completely stopping fertilization to get the plant to bloom. Will it stunt the plant? Yes, a bit, but if you're going to grow it in a pot long-term you want to stunt it. I water with 1/4-strength Dyna-gro fertilizer PH-adjusted to 6.0-6.5 for most plants and 4.5-5.5 for acid-loving plants 4 of every 5 times I water. I'll sometimes add other macro/micro nutrients, but not often. But if I flush with plain water for 3-6 weeks after 6-9 months of these "cushy" conditions, I can often get smaller-than-normal plants to start flowering for me. I'm hoping to try this on my new Pickering next spring, and many of my other tropical fruits this summer.
All that being said, I've never grown a mango tree to fruiting size here. I only got my first 3-gallon grafted mango a week ago; it was promptly bare-rooted and put in gritty mix in a 5-gallon fabric pot. I give newly transplanted things a shot of Dyna-Gro KLN according to the label, and I believe it really helps with transplant shock, especially after a plant has been bare-rooted. Whenever I bare-root transplant, I keep the plant in the shade for at least a week afterward.
Even though I have no practical experience with mango, I've got a lot of other tropical fruit plants in gritty mix in the fabric pots, and all (except my Carambola) that are of reasonable fruiting age / size have successfully ripened fruit for me.
Kevin