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Messages - pineislander

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Florida Super Hass Avocado review
« on: December 07, 2018, 06:28:39 AM »
I would like to try the Brogden please. I have one and would like to know if it’s worth keeping.
Definitely Brogdon is worth growing it is early and I enjoyed the taste especially since they are so early. Different because the skin is thin but is also edible. Easy to tell when ripe they turn black.





2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Banana Tree leaf tips yellowing
« on: December 02, 2018, 07:45:36 AM »
The problem is probably too complex to diagnose but my guess would be nutritional. If in Montana good luck to you.
Winter container culture of tropicals must be very challenging. Even just lower temps could be the problem. You might consider Basjoo banana it can come back even with frost.

3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: 2019 Mango season (Florida) flower stimuli
« on: November 30, 2018, 10:00:52 PM »
Could laying ice under a tree for multiple days on end cool the roots enough to further encourage flowering?
Reminds me of a fisherman friend in the Caribbean. I told him apples needed cold weather.
He got some apple seeds growing and tried dumping his ice every day on the roots.
Didn't help.

4
I will ask the folks about eating quality.

Quote
Delicious. Very potato-like. (starchy, mealy). No bitterness. I got mine from Taylor Nelson, who I believe got it from Uncle Chan on ebay. I would say it is just as delicious as the good cultivars of bulbifera, but it doesn't make anywhere near as large of bulbils. Luckily the skin peels off really easy after cooking so you don't need to pre-peel the smaller bulbils. Do you not have the air potato beetle where you live? That was the only drawback of bulbifera. We all got the good cultivars about a year before they released the beetles all over FL. I've pretty much given up on bulbifera, although I do get a few plants that randomly come up from time to time.

Also, I finished harvesting the vine (which went totally dormant) and got maybe 3/4 more harvest as what you see in the first harvest picture. Not bad for one plant.

5
I will ask the folks about eating quality.
Sorry I forgot the Facebook link:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/495305670949220/

6
On good position and very good maintenance in Costa Rica, the 40 year old trees in this recent video are yielding 80 kg and his target is 100 kg.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQv3pHN2B30

7
My one complaint is you might get 3 different types of bananas, but they’re not labeled, so if you really like one of them, you have to email them to find out which type.
That would be very easy to correct with a magic marker.

8
Yes, he is eating the pentaphyllum and other member does too. I don't know the sources they used. If you or anyone uses Facebook the group page is here:

9


Also trying again with D. pentaphylla, same vendor. Before buying, I asked the vendor about the harvest season and if they had fresh bulbils. They did, and they arrived in great shape! This time next year, I'll have Pentaphylla bulbils for distribution. As for dodecaneura, I'll have to figure out how to propagate it... Maybe layering?

Pentaphylla pics:



On a Facebook group I belong to a friend showed his pentaphylla:



Caesar check your PM, Ube bulbils are ready.

10
Lots of tropical vegetables depending on what season and what you like. Some are semi-perennial, some annual.
Check out these sources:

http://www.seedsofindia.com/

The lady who runs this store has lots of videos showing how to grow, prepare & what to expect.
https://www.asiangarden2table.com/

You can search this forum for others experience or just ask. Good luck.


11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: November 27, 2018, 05:32:00 PM »
I'm pleased to show some good fruits from my DF picked today. I planted 10 posts with four cuttings each a year ago, they grew well and flowered well early in the summer but all flowers yellowed and fell. Later in the summer there was a second flowering which I hand pollinated and got a few fruits but many flowers became infested with fruit fly larvae and fell. The last flowering was sparse and I just ignored them and they came through with two very nice fruits. Perhaps the plants just needed more time and things worked out. This is an unnamed variety which was planted on a tree when I bought the property and propagated. There were several varieties most white fleshed this was my favorite. I'll try to get a brix when I find my refractometer but it was average sweet to me.

Here is  a section of the planting a few months ago:



Here are the fruits from today:



12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anonas
« on: November 26, 2018, 05:09:13 PM »
Not really good for Cherimoya. We are best suited to Sugar Apple or Atemoya. Please send me a Private Message I am neighboring on Pine Island and can introduce you to other members close to you if desired/

13
Where would you intend to market the fruit, locally offshore or in the USA? If you intend to make money i'd suggest that needs to be worked out first.

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado tree named 'carla'
« on: November 25, 2018, 11:42:29 PM »
Not so sure you would get fruit here in Florida into June. That would be nice.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: 2-3 mango trees in one hole
« on: November 19, 2018, 09:41:45 PM »
It should not kill off one tree if planted correctly. You can see large trees planted in one in this video.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lo3_u08CwdY

Simon
The trees in that video don't appear to really have all been planted "in the same hole".

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Advice for an Orlando Beginner
« on: November 15, 2018, 04:29:17 PM »
In deciding where to place things, I spent a season drawing shadow maps to see which areas got how much sun and noting things like wind direction.


There is a cool online sun/shade calculator.
http://suncalc.net

17
Your lower branches in heavy shade may have decided to die back. Pruning should include periodically shortening some branches and opening the interior canopy at the top to let light in. Hard to tell from the picture but the tree may not be getting much light from the sides which is usually the reason for lower branches dying off.

Cogshall is usually a slow grower but can get dense from the two trees I have. I see your tree at an early stage developed a double trunk be aware that a tight crotch angle like this will eventually become a weak point on a tree and should have been avoided. What happens is the two branches as they grow will include bark between them such that they don't actually have a union along the crotch. The tight angle puts most stress at the lower end of the crotch and if a wind event or heavy fruit load occurs it is much more likely to cause the tree to split.

I recently walked a 3 year old orchard and saw nearly 10% of trees had double trunks with angles like that. The problem will become worse as the trees get older you could easily lose 1/2 the tree and maybe set the whole tree up for failure as such damage would be a perfect place for rot and be hard to heal.

Looking at the picture again you might consider taking the right side fork down quite a bit next year to see if it can have less stress and help re-build the lower canopy, if there is enough light. That branch is growing more horizontal towards the fence and will have the most stress. That would also lessen the stress on the crotch. Maybe a cut near the growth ring on that branch where it turns more horizontal about 2 feet above the crotch should stimulate new growth. Your decision and you may lose crop for a year or two on that branch, less chance of that if you do it early.

Crotch angle:
https://www.phillyorchards.org/tag/crotch-angle/


18
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fralon Mango
« on: November 03, 2018, 07:01:13 AM »
I've seen this spelled Fralan, Falan, Fralon.
Agree on the growth habit. I have two of these and they have a unique natural form. I might describe it as a natural bonsai form very dense and compact. Mainly pruning has been keeping the center and top of the tree open. Yes, you should eat these green I don't think they are anything special ripe and they tend to split before ripening. There is a good market for green mango especially early in the season with Asian people. Picking green avoids loss from over ripening, anthracnose, animals, wind, etc.

Falan
Origin
Thailand

Synonyms
Falan, Thunder

Fruit description
Falan is a green, oblong shape fruit with no blush and a polyembryonic* seed. Falan is a medium-to-small tree with an open canopy.

https://www.daf.qld.gov.au/business-priorities/plants/fruit-and-vegetables/fruit-and-nuts/mangoes/mango-varieties/green-eating

Quote
Comments
Falan is another popular green eating variety in Thailand. When translated into English, Falan means Thunder. This variety is given its name because of its tendency, when mature, to split after a thunder storm or heavy rain. Because of this, it should not be picked in rainy weather and irrigation should be turned off before harvest.

Falan has a milder flavour than Keow Savoey and is generally eaten as slices in vinegar or fish sauces (mamung nam pla wa arn). In northern Thailand, this variety is induced to produce out-of-season fruit with potassium nitrate and paclobutrazol (Cultar®).

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Advice for an Orlando Beginner
« on: November 03, 2018, 06:49:56 AM »
Along with considering size on a small lot also consider how trees will grow under different amounts of light. Plant a tree close to the house, fence or wall it will grow outwards. If the neighbor has a large tree that casts shade your tree will grow away seeking light. Remember winter sun lies to the south and casts a long shadow to the north of any tall object or tree. In a small space you can squeeze in productivity by planting shade tolerant stuff in spaces other trees will grow away from. Remember as your trees grow taller if not pruned they will close in the canopy, lower branches will die back, fruit will only be in the treetop and trees will accelerate straight up. In other words on a small space you can either plant trees farther apart or prune more carefully to keep things under control.

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Growing avocado in sandy soil
« on: November 03, 2018, 06:38:47 AM »

How long has the tree been in ground?
I now see two years so young but the roots should be spreading out 3 feet or so.

Is it on flat ground, slope or hill?
If not on flat ground probably no possibility of standing water in root zone. On flat ground if standing water was ever possible during some high water event even a few hours root system could have been damaged.

Has the tree developed an extensive root system, of has there been some restriction, damage or dieback?
It's possible that during the tree's life some damage may have come to the root zone which has resulted in a reduced root mass.
 
What is the subsoil profile down several feet through the B&C horizons?
You may have sand on top but solid rock or an impermeable profile underneath. Maybe just a big rock or ledge you don't know about. You could use a post hole digger or steel rod to check that.

Have you amended the soil or mulched?
If you haven't mulched you need to recognize that avocado root system is shallow feeder roots which really need mulch to keep roots cool, reduce evaporation, maintain a soil food web and eventually build topsoil. If you pull mulch back under a healthy avocado tree you should be able to see fine feeder roots coming into the mulch. If not, get that started.

What is the sun and wind exposure?
If in full California sun or high wind exposure you might try a windbreak or something to give only afternoon sun protection but realize this tree needs enough sun to conduct photosynthesis.

What vegetation or trees are nearby?
I've seen lawn grass grown right up to avocado. The grass was absorbing almost all water and nutrients, the tree hardly grew and was starving. Same with a large tree, nearby trees can send roots out seeking water. Some can travel 20 feet and emerge into your avocado tree's root zone robbing it of everything. You could check by digging outside the avocado tree's root zone searching for small or large roots invading the tree's space.

How are you watering?
A two year old tree probably should have a root zone 3 feet wide maybe twice that if you have mulched well. As the tree grows you need to add mulch and expand the root zone by expanding mulching outside the drip zone. Water needs will increase as the tree grows so a single dripper needs to change to 4-6 drippers or better a microsprayer which will maintain healthy soil throughout the root zone.

There's a  slight chance some animal like mole or ground squirrel has a burrow or gopher has eaten roots?

Good luck.

PS, this guy's channel discusses lots of California specific tree information.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBMvGhHuXxU

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Growing avocado in sandy soil
« on: November 02, 2018, 04:19:48 PM »
Some questions.
How long has the tree been in ground?
Is it on flat ground, slope or hill?
Has the tree developed an extensive root system, of has there been some restriction, damage or dieback?
What is the subsoil profile down several feet through the B&C horizons?
Have you amended the soil or mulched?
What is the sun and wind exposure?
What vegetation or trees are nearby?
Some photos might help.

All of the above might be influences on what you are seeing and are pertinent to a solution.
Another question, how are you applying water?

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Growing avocado in sandy soil
« on: November 02, 2018, 07:47:48 AM »
Some questions.
How long has the tree been in ground?
Is it on flat ground, slope or hill?
Has the tree developed an extensive root system, of has there been some restriction, damage or dieback?
What is the subsoil profile down several feet through the B&C horizons?
Have you amended the soil or mulched?
What is the sun and wind exposure?
What vegetation or trees are nearby?
Some photos might help.

All of the above might be influences on what you are seeing and are pertinent to a solution.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Banana Pruning Tools
« on: October 31, 2018, 12:58:09 PM »
For leaf pruning I've seen that in Central America they use a short pole with a sharpened hook knife on the end. It works best on green leaves. I use a short machete and pruners but have thought about making a hook knife. It would basically be a piece of steel bar stock ground down to a hook knife form. You could just use two steel hose clamps to secure it, or with metal handle use bolts like this:
http://ryset.com/harvesting/banana-de-leafing-knife/ryset-curved-de-leafing-knife.html

here is a home made banana desuckering tool. It would also be useful for planting and any welder can make it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqdOSUYxNNQ

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Discovered Some Visitors
« on: October 30, 2018, 06:39:10 PM »
I wonder if you introduced a nice hive box close by they might move into it?
I checked and besides a regular bee box one can buy a swarm trap.
https://www.kelleybees.com/swarm-trap.html


25
A neighbor has a Mabolo/Velvet Apple/Diospyros discolor tree and fruits are all falling off the tree none are being eaten by rats or squirrels. Almost none are being eaten by people either, for obvious reasons if you've ever tried. :-X

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