Best product for Phomopsis?

[Mark in Texas]

Phyton 35, mancozeb, in rotation seems to have saved a 'fruit punch' in my yard.  No way a. Liquifaciens is going to cure.

Just a heads up regarding cost - Phyton 35 is high as hell as opposed to MagnaBon, both copper sulfate pentahydrate products labeled for consumables.

[BestDay]

I have been reading these posts repeatedly and studying the labels of the different recommended products.  I'm a little afraid of the Dithane.  Depending on the type of food crop it's maximum applications per year and time between last application and harvest are all over the place.  Some crops you can apply up to four times a year and others up to twelve times.  Some crops you can apply up to the day of harvest and other you have to wait 66 days.  Since Mangos aren't specifically listed I wouldn't know how or when to apply it.

The Captan seems like a safer product.  On almost all food crops it can be applied up to the day of harvest.  It can be applied every 7-14 days as needed.  So I'm hoping it works.  My only concern is that the label under compatibility and plant safety says "Combinations of Captan and Sulfur should not be used on crops sensitive to sulfur".  I use sulfur to control powdery mildew in the spring.  I have no idea if Mangos are sensitive to sulfur.  I have never seen any side effects from using it.  Does anyone have any input on this?

The label on Captan also says it shouldn't be used with spreaders that cause excessive wetting.  I use Southern AG spreader-sticker.  Will this be a problem?  Thanks for any advice.  I'm really a novice when it comes to fungicides and pesticides.  I just want to do as little as possible to keep my Dot mango happy.

Bill

[Mangosurf]

If you are concerned with harsh chemical fungicides you should try Actinovate beneficial microorganism (Streptomyces lydicus)  establishes itself on plants’ roots and leaves. I've had good success so far using as a foliar spray and root drench. Has significantly reduced/stopped die back.

[Mark in Texas]

If you are concerned with harsh chemical fungicides

"Harsh chemical fungicides"?     And just how harsh are they?  Have heard many a comment about Actinovate being worthless.  Glad it's working out fer ya.

[Mark in Texas]

I have been reading these posts repeatedly and studying the labels of the different recommended products.  I'm a little afraid of the Dithane.  Depending on the type of food crop it's maximum applications per year and time between last application and harvest are all over the place.  Some crops you can apply up to four times a year and others up to twelve times.  Some crops you can apply up to the day of harvest and other you have to wait 66 days.  Since Mangos aren't specifically listed I wouldn't know how or when to apply it.

The Captan seems like a safer product.  On almost all food crops it can be applied up to the day of harvest.  It can be applied every 7-14 days as needed.  So I'm hoping it works.  My only concern is that the label under compatibility and plant safety says "Combinations of Captan and Sulfur should not be used on crops sensitive to sulfur".  I use sulfur to control powdery mildew in the spring.  I have no idea if Mangos are sensitive to sulfur.  I have never seen any side effects from using it.  Does anyone have any input on this?

The label on Captan also says it shouldn't be used with spreaders that cause excessive wetting.  I use Southern AG spreader-sticker.  Will this be a problem?  Thanks for any advice.  I'm really a novice when it comes to fungicides and pesticides.  I just want to do as little as possible to keep my Dot mango happy.

Bill

A lot of time AND money has been spent on those labels and the lawyering and EPA'ing that goes with it.  Heed them and you'll be fine.

If the S. AG spreader-sticker is a non-ionic surfactant which I assume it is then it's safe to use with Captan.  About 1 tsp/gallon.  Some tender foliage on mangos and avocados may be burned by surfactants, not the fungicide.  I'd spray a branch of young fresh foliage as a test, wait 48 hrs. and if no phyto-toxicity is observed hit the whole tree.  If the leaves are pretty much matured then you should have no problem.

Copper is still your safest bet all around IMO.

[behlgarden]

If you are concerned with harsh chemical fungicides

"Harsh chemical fungicides"?     And just how harsh are they?  Have heard many a comment about Actinovate being worthless.  Glad it's working out fer ya.

I used abound on my mangoes with no help, on the contrary I used abound on my sick stone fruits and they came back strong with no longer getting sick. they had Gumosis and abound knocked that out. Mangoes, not so much, I get dieback and gumosis still.

[BestDay]

I have been spraying infrequently with sulfur and Southern AG Liquid Copper Fungicide (Copper diammonia diacetate).  I guess if I want to keep my new replacement Dot tree alive I need to start spraying consistently.

Is the Magna-Bon much better then the copper I have been using?

Bill

[BestDay]

I can't find anywhere that carries Magna-Bon.  Anyone know of a website that carries it?

Bill

[Mark in Texas]

I have been spraying infrequently with sulfur and Southern AG Liquid Copper Fungicide (Copper diammonia diacetate).  I guess if I want to keep my new replacement Dot tree alive I need to start spraying consistently.

Is the Magna-Bon much better then the copper I have been using?

Bill

Don't know, never seen a comparison.

Click on "Diseases Controlled".  You won't believe it.  Gotta call the company as reps are stationed in different states.  There's no rep for Texas for example.  Ask for the owner Frank Miele.  http://www.magnabon.com/cs-2005

[BestDay]

Ok. Thanks

[BestDay]

I thought I would provide an update to this topic since their has been some talk recently on this forum of Phomopsis problems on Mango trees in SoCal.  Since about January I have sprayed my Mango trees every 30 days with copper and every 15 days with Sulfur.  I can say that compared to last year at this time Powdery Mildew is much less of a problem and as a result I have much more fruit set.  Unfortunately my fungal issues, which are assumed to be Phomopsis, haven't improved much if at all.  I still experience sudden dieback on branches and what was left of my Dot mango died back to the graft line.  It has since been replaced with a larger Dot. 

I am now going to start using Organocide Plant Doctor which is a systemic fungicide to my spraying regimen.  It is similar to ProPhyt and Phostrol in that it contains Phosphorous Acid.  According to this article on grapes, http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/controlling_black_rot_and_phomopsis_from_grape_clusters, it is best to use a systemic fungacide once plants are already infected with Phomopsis.  Hopefully this will help.  If not I will try it adding Captan to my regimen.  I'll keep you updated.

Bill

[simon_grow]

Hey Bill, thanks for the update. Just keep in mind that there are many fungal issues that can affect Mangos. Here in SoCal, Phomopsis and Gummosis (caused by Lasiodiplodia theobromae) seem to go hand in hand. I have a friend that owns an orchard and he has had good success using Abound to combat the issues he had with Mango.

Simon

[SoCal2warm]

Overrwatering can lead to phomopsis. Which is difficult, because in this hot and dry climate it's easy for the trees to dry out too. My thinking is that it's best to have alternating periods between deep waterings, and then letting the soil dry out. But not too extremely dry for too long. It's a narrow tolerance range.