Author Topic: Concerning hand pollinating soursop (Read 4118 times)

JoeP450 · « **on:** November 20, 2019, 09:39:33 AM »

Hey Forum,

Wondering if anyone could share some links or first hand experience with hand pollinating soursop. Looking for specifics on timing and flower stage. I have a “Miami” soursop from Lara farms in flower right now.

-Joep450

roblack · « **Reply #1 on:** November 20, 2019, 01:26:26 PM »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm1-vuhFBPY

super easy

johnsonw · « **Reply #2 on:** November 21, 2019, 10:40:52 PM »

Have you looked at any of Jason Pepes videos? He just put a book out about this. I’m about to order it myself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1710046872

Regards,

Will

johnb51 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2019, 08:39:23 AM »

I understand that the Miami soursop was selected because it bears heavily without hand pollination. I have a similar seedling tree that bears heavily. If I were to hand pollinate, the overabundance of fruit might damage the tree.

FMfruitforest · « **Reply #4 on:** November 10, 2020, 07:22:20 AM »

Is this the flower in right stage for hand pollinating?

FMfruitforest · « **Reply #5 on:** November 26, 2020, 09:27:48 AM »

I thought i did a rather fine job of getting pollen on the gooey stigma @ 5.30 am but still not seeing a fruit set, there must be something I am missing. I see another Florida grower has removed a couple soursops from his yard because they did nothing for him, he did show one of his soursop trees that is actually a producer and loaded with fruit with no hand pollinating. Im just curious why some soursops seem so reluctant to set fruit. From looking at how the pollen falls and is collected near the stigma on the petals naturally it seems to me it should set fruit rather easily on its own.

skhan · « **Reply #6 on:** November 26, 2020, 11:15:53 AM »

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063PG40G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_8n9VFb3ZEJ4NC

I've used this in the past with pretty good success. My father in law tried it on his tree too, first time he got fruits.
At least this is what works in our limestone and sand soils

Zinc, iron and boron seems to help annonas set fruit.
There is a research paper from India the goes into it. I've linked it in the forum a few times.

Orkine · « **Reply #7 on:** October 30, 2021, 10:22:32 AM »

Reactivating an old post because I have the same question.

I have a soursop that is in serious flowering mode. Over the past month I am sure I have seen well over 20 flowers. Not one set fruit. I assume it is running its course now and will like to see if I can help it along by pollinating a couple of the flowers so I can get some fruit from the tree.

I have tried using a brush to pollinate taking pollen from open flower and using on partially open but I thin my timing must be wrong. Any first hand experience on successful hand pollination and what should I be looking for?

Picture from today, two flowers, one open and lost its petals the other not open yet.

Guanabanus · « **Reply #8 on:** October 30, 2021, 10:49:35 AM »

At least with the varieties that I worked with, the pollen became available at full darkness, a half hour or more after sunset. Wearing a head lamp, so I could gather the anthers and pollen in a film bottle, using both hands, I would use the pollen right then, at its freshest. Time availability to do it, and temperature, are usually good then--- if there aren't hordes of mosquitos.

Brushes did not work well. For flowers on flexible branches, where I could turn the flowers upside down, I would pour in the anthers and pollen.
For stiff positions, where the flowers cannot be turned up without breaking them off, I would smear pollen up them on my index finger.

Fruits resulting from carefull, full hand-pollination are usually more symmetrical and far larger than fruits resulting from partial pollination by insects.

Orkine · « **Reply #9 on:** October 30, 2021, 11:09:55 AM »

Thanks Har, looks like I have homework for the next few nights.

I broke a petal off the one that is closest to being ready to open (already partially open in picture below) I will keep an eye on this tonight and tomorrow.

I have also included pictures of a few more that are not quite there yet but perhaps later this week.

Will be keeping an eye on this one tonight

Perhaps a few more days for this one

Even longer for this

Same as the one just above but shows the older flower that opened already better

I expect this to drop off but I will keep an eye on it in case it got pollinated and sets fruit

mangokothiyan · « **Reply #10 on:** October 30, 2021, 03:23:56 PM »

Fruits on my Miami soursop tree develop to the size of a fist or even bigger and then turn black and fall. This has been happening for the last 3 years at least. Anyone else dealing with the same problem and know how to fix it?

Guanabanus · « **Reply #11 on:** October 30, 2021, 08:59:01 PM »

Have you tried bagging the fruits, when they are about the size of a quarter?

Orkine · « **Reply #12 on:** October 31, 2021, 09:13:07 AM »

Quote from: Guanabanus on October 30, 2021, 10:49:35 AM

......
For stiff positions, where the flowers cannot be turned up without breaking them off, I would smear pollen up them on my index finger.
...

So I gave it a go with the first flower (alas it was this morning), The pollen still looked fresh but I am not not as fresh as it would have been last night. I have to remember to look after dark the next few evenings. Fortunately I have several more flowers to work with.

mangokothiyan · « **Reply #13 on:** October 31, 2021, 09:22:31 AM »

Quote from: Guanabanus on October 30, 2021, 08:59:01 PM

Have you tried bagging the fruits, when they are about the size of a quarter?

I have not. I will do that. The tree has flowers right now.

Thanks, Har.

roblack · « **Reply #14 on:** October 31, 2021, 12:15:58 PM »

Just keep trying. Morning, daytime, and at night.

Whenever I see the fallen petals of a flower, I go to it.

Sometimes it takes weeks to tell if you were successful.

Fertilization schedule helps with fruit set.

Orkine · « **Reply #15 on:** November 04, 2021, 09:19:31 PM »

Just came in from a trip to the tree.
Two flowers tonight and I think at the right time.
The petals were open but had not come off.
Some type of cap fell off and lots of pollen too as soon as I touched the flower, same in both cases. I was able to apply the pollen and I feel good about these ones I could see yellow pollen on my finger and it was sticky so I believe some got transferred.

Now we wait. I still have a few flowers that will mature over the next several days including one on a different tree that should open tomorrow.

Question: Any chance I can save pollen from tonight to use to cross pollinate tomorrow night?

Guanabanus · « **Reply #16 on:** November 05, 2021, 10:28:58 AM »

The "cap" that comes off is the full set of stigmas. Don't expect the flower to be receptive after that--- it already wasn't receptive for quite a few hours before the stigmas came off.

You can try refrigerating anthers and pollen with dessicant packets included. That works with atemoya pollen.

Orkine · « **Reply #17 on:** November 05, 2021, 07:13:26 PM »

Thanks.
I have one more due to open tonight.
I will try to get it earlier and see if I can get it to work this time with nothing falling off.

Orkine · « **Reply #18 on:** November 05, 2021, 07:30:13 PM »

Quote from: Guanabanus on November 05, 2021, 10:28:58 AM

The "cap" that comes off is the full set of stigmas. Don't expect the flower to be receptive after that--- it already wasn't receptive for quite a few hours before the stigmas came off.

You can try refrigerating anthers and pollen with dessicant packets included. That works with atemoya pollen.

Thanks Har, it crossed my mind it was something like that but I was not sure which is why I mentioned it.
Well I just did a new one, the flower had not opened fully and the pollen isn't falling out yet. I used pollen from last night and I hope it works.

Guanabanus · « **Reply #19 on:** November 05, 2021, 08:54:50 PM »

I always took the pollen to another flower, one just entering female stage. In that closed-up, protective space, the pollen will stay fresh for a few hours, while the female stage matures.

Orkine · « **Reply #20 on:** November 14, 2021, 01:15:26 PM »

The batch I did last week are still on the plant. There is no color or green to suggest there is a fruit but the stalk didn't dry up and fall off. Or hasn't in a week. I take this as a good sign.
I have 3 more flowers coming due to night or tomorrow night. With the relatively low humidity we expect is it a good idea to bag them in a sandwich bag? I know it assures no pollination unless I do it but would it keep things moist and receptive to hand pollination a little longer than if I left it open to the elements?

Guanabanus · « **Reply #21 on:** November 14, 2021, 07:21:35 PM »

Sounds good. And when you do momentarily open a flower to pollinate it, try not to break petals. Re-close carefully.

roblack · « **Reply #22 on:** November 14, 2021, 07:23:32 PM »

Use a skinny brush! =)

FMfruitforest · « **Reply #23 on:** November 15, 2021, 05:53:44 AM »

Flower petals have fallen and pollen is dropping, stigmas are still white, Im wondering if they are still receptive in this stage.

roblack · « **Reply #24 on:** November 15, 2021, 11:45:07 AM »

You want to pollinate flowers before they develop anthers. Once they turn male, you have pretty much missed the window for fruit set. While there may be a little wiggle room time wise, you want to take your pollen and add to flowers that haven't opened all the way yet.

When you find anthers, you have pollen. Time to find a good female flower.

Others show hand pollinating flowers with their own anthers. I think they are fooling themselves.

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Author Topic: Concerning hand pollinating soursop (Read 4118 times)