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Author Topic: Hoop house  (Read 316 times)

spaugh

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Hoop house
« on: November 21, 2017, 04:36:53 PM »
Anyone made one of these?  I am making one and have a few questions for those with experience using 6mil UV poly on a greenhouse type structure.  Specifically I am trying to determine the best method of attaching the poly to the end rails and also trying to decide if the galvanized hoops need to be painted white to reduce heat?  Also do the perlin clamps need something on them to keep the poly from rubbing on them or just go ahead and lay it right on top of the hoops and perlin clamps?

spaugh

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2017, 04:43:39 PM »
Heres the current state of the project.  The door is going up and then it will be time to cover it.  There is no rush since its 95F here today.  Just trying to take my time and do it right the first time.

We do not get frost here but we do get into the mid 30s a few nights a year and also have extreme heat and low humidity in summer.  The HH is equiped with a fan that can replace the air every minute and I am thinking aluminite shade will go over the outside during summer to regulate temps.  The goal is to provide a more moderate environmwnt for my young potted plants and a for fun plants like coffee etc.  Warmer and dryer in winter and cooler more humid in summer.

« Last Edit: November 21, 2017, 04:45:36 PM by spaugh »

Mark in Texas

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2017, 09:51:21 AM »
Looking amazing!  FarmTek, Greenhouse MegaStore and others will have the connectors you need.  You WILL need wet pads/fans in the summer if you keep the poly. I recommend white shade cloth and permanent end walls of polycarbonate.   

Metal gets hot as hell, reason why I painted my steel purlins and outside of the polycarbonate white. Still gets hot.


nattyfroootz

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2017, 10:57:51 AM »
I am in the same exact place on my hoop house.  The poly latch wire and latch channel is the best way to go from what my research has told me.  I'm about to do the framing and installation of my fans. Is there any reason you decided to go with one fan instead of two on the intake?

spaugh

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2017, 11:41:46 AM »
Thanks Mark, I will have to look into the wet pad.  Never heard of it then googled it.  Looks like a swamp cooler type evap deal.  I was hoping to get away with misters or something low cost but will tackle that when the time comes. 

Nattyfrooootz, I have a 24" fan (iliving fan off amazon) for exhaust and a 36" farmtek shutter on the intake side.  Hopefully the fan will open the shutters automatically.  If not, I will get a motor for the shutters.

You can use multiple fans and or intakes.  Doesnt really matter.  I think you want to go larger on the intake side.  I thought about 2 x 24" intakes for symetry.  The problem is if that costs more and if they need motors its double cost again. 

I ordered wiggle wire rails from farmtek.  375$ worth !  Ouch!  I am trying to do this on the cheap but its already like a 2000$ project.  Probably 3 grand by the time Im done.  Im going to run a 30 amp power line to it and put outlets etc in it so I can run heaters or grow lamps etc.  Probably put a radio and whatever else in there and go live in there when my wife wants to get rid of me.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2017, 11:45:06 AM by spaugh »

waxy

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2017, 12:40:53 PM »
Anyone made one of these?  I am making one and have a few questions for those with experience using 6mil UV poly on a greenhouse type structure.  Specifically I am trying to determine the best method of attaching the poly to the end rails and also trying to decide if the galvanized hoops need to be painted white to reduce heat?  Also do the perlin clamps need something on them to keep the poly from rubbing on them or just go ahead and lay it right on top of the hoops and perlin clamps?

1. 6mil poly will resist the abuse between the 1" galvanized hoops vs 40mph winds and 100F Heat.
2. I recommend PVC coated wiggle wire and a deep spring lock base, to overlap an additional layer of poly or shade cloth.
3. Sounds like a PITA but paint the galvanized pipes white, the heat coming from it against the poly is direct vs coating dissipation.
4. Just use the wiggle wire and strap the poly as tight as possible, it's VERY durable, mine has been up for 4+ years in 9b and during the storm of the century this year (Flooding and high winds)

The wiggle wire will be a very simple application for you, drill, bolt on the wood base and slap over the poly and you're set.
I use the deep base lock so that I can add another layer of poly during winter for insulation, shade cloth during spring - early fall.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2017, 12:44:16 PM by waxy »

spaugh

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2017, 01:24:15 PM »
I ordered wiggle wire channels from farmtek and they only had one size.  I looked at GH megastore and almost went with the deep stuff for end hoops but decided I like the farmtek stuff better and am assuming it can hold 2 plys.  It says good to 20mil.

White paint is a pita but I think you guys are right, it is worth the effort. 

I will not be doing double poly but I am thinking the end wall poly and top poly will have to double on the end hoops.  Is that how you did it?  Poly on end walls?  Do you use the same rail to hold the end wall and top poly on the end hoops?  That part is not clear to me how people are connecting the end wall poly.

waxy

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2017, 01:59:28 PM »
I ordered wiggle wire channels from farmtek and they only had one size.  I looked at GH megastore and almost went with the deep stuff for end hoops but decided I like the farmtek stuff better and am assuming it can hold 2 plys.  It says good to 20mil.

White paint is a pita but I think you guys are right, it is worth the effort. 

I will not be doing double poly but I am thinking the end wall poly and top poly will have to double on the end hoops.  Is that how you did it?  Poly on end walls?  Do you use the same rail to hold the end wall and top poly on the end hoops?  That part is not clear to me how people are connecting the end wall poly.

I'm not sure if I understand your question but I'll try my best.

On each end, what you can do is slightly bend the spring lock base (SLB) to an arch, in tandem with the 2 ends.
With the deep SLB you can wiggle wire the sides on first, then the ends.

That way, when it's really warm out you can remove the ends.
Allowing it the air ventilation needed, then cover when it's snowing :)

The standard SLB will hold 2x 6mil poly and 2x WW very tightly.
The deep SLB will double that, with room to spare.

My greenhouse isn't a hoop, it's a 20x20 barn shape roof with vents.
I seal mine up just to fog with Horticulture/Neem/Orange oil for the annoying pests.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2017, 02:03:28 PM by waxy »

spaugh

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2017, 02:05:39 PM »
So the end walls are going to be poly.  And so is the top.  I have 3 pieces of poly.  1 for each end wall and 1 for the length of the tunnel.  I will bend and screw the rail onto the two end rails.

What I want to know is do people attach the side poly piece into the same rail as the top sheet on the end hoop.  From all the documents and videos I have seen, no one really shows how they attach the end wall poly to the hoop.

nattyfroootz

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2017, 03:24:45 PM »
I'm going to be doing the same set up. Poly on both end walls and on the top. I am planning on putting my end wall poly on and then attaching the top sheet using a second piece of wiggle wire or the same one if I dont have space. It will be a double sheet of poly on the end wall connection. 

I am using the Johnnyseeds hoop bender set up and they have an instructional booklet, https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/tools-supplies/9018-quickhoops-high-tunnel-bender-instruction-manual.html

Page 35 might be able to provide a little more info for you if you haven't seen this yet.

spaugh

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2017, 03:38:12 PM »
Thanks!  You guys should post photos of your setups. 

Mark in Texas

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2017, 04:51:45 PM »
Probably put a radio and whatever else in there and go live in there when my wife wants to get rid of me.

You too can become an honored member of the Fraternal Bros of Man Caves.  Membership comes with the requirement that you successfully smash a Lemon Zest between your hairy thighs.

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waxy

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2017, 06:26:27 PM »
I just cut excess poly on mine, which isn't much.
Both the ends and sides share the same deep SLB, since yours is a hoop then cut to shape.
That way it fits more snug without slack like it's being pulled and rolled up like toilet paper.
In addition to that, it does ruin the visibility of the sides if you're from the outside looking in, vice versa.

My setup is a bit automated, everything is digitally managed with a controller I installed.
I programmed several outlets to do the following:

- Exchange Fan (if x then x fallback off end)
- Ball valve propane feed
- Electric fan forced heater
- Mist system when humidity is below 30%
- Fogger on (if temp1 >55F switch on)
- Dehumidifier on when 90%
- Emergency shut down due to moisture
- CO2 >1800 PPM cycle Exchange fan

Wind and pressure notifications when it reaches 20mph so I can remember double check the logistics of the greenhouse.
Many cool things to do to adjust and control the environment.

Been working well since my rambutan, mangosteens and langsats are doing ok so far...
I'm an analytics kind of guy so looking at the graphs and such does help predict and anticipate adjustments to the microclimate.
I suppose it may be a bit redundant but when is it every enough? :D
« Last Edit: November 22, 2017, 06:31:25 PM by waxy »

Mark in Texas

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Re: Hoop house
« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2017, 09:26:26 AM »
I just cut excess poly on mine, which isn't much.
Both the ends and sides share the same deep SLB, since yours is a hoop then cut to shape.
That way it fits more snug without slack like it's being pulled and rolled up like toilet paper.
In addition to that, it does ruin the visibility of the sides if you're from the outside looking in, vice versa.

My setup is a bit automated, everything is digitally managed with a controller I installed.
I programmed several outlets to do the following:

- Exchange Fan (if x then x fallback off end)
- Ball valve propane feed
- Electric fan forced heater
- Mist system when humidity is below 30%
- Fogger on (if temp1 >55F switch on)
- Dehumidifier on when 90%
- Emergency shut down due to moisture
- CO2 >1800 PPM cycle Exchange fan

Wind and pressure notifications when it reaches 20mph so I can remember double check the logistics of the greenhouse.
Many cool things to do to adjust and control the environment.

Been working well since my rambutan, mangosteens and langsats are doing ok so far...
I'm an analytics kind of guy so looking at the graphs and such does help predict and anticipate adjustments to the microclimate.
I suppose it may be a bit redundant but when is it every enough? :D

Very nice high tech!  What mist system and fogger do you use, high pressure or low?  Am really getting sick of the two swamp coolers.  Maintenance much less efficiency is the pits.

Automation is the only way to go.  I have a iLink 800 controller, 8 cooling set points, 2 heating operating 2 very large vents operated by 1 HP Locke motors.  Reznor propane heater.  The open vents allow hundreds of pollinators to come and go in the spring.

I did a lean to in another city and the aspen pads cinched up in 3' W hardware cloth, fed by a cheap pond/fish pump really did a nice job.  The pads were made by laying out a 12' long piece, clipping wires here and there to act as pins when closed over the pads.  A 6' pad was laid on and the cloth was folded in half to make a 3' X 6' pad.  It was positioned left of a the entry door which was in the center.  Gutter, PVC drilled out over the top, etc.  High speed fan was on the other side of the greenhouse at the peak.  Grew and flowered the hell  outta orchids, ferns 6' across, etc.

 

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