Tree Spacing?

[darkcoolboo]

I have a 20' x 25' area and I'm using MS Excel to map it out the spacing between trees. I'm having difficulty deciding between a 8' and 16' spacing map. Each square represents a square foot in real life. I'll growing my trees at my backyard for about 5 years, after which I will pack up my trees and moving away, which makes the 8' spacing possible. Here are 3 possible maps (click on them for a bigger image):

8' spacing - Will the trees out grow this quickly?

Sort of a middle ground - The shading issue isn't a problem in sunny AZ.

Conservative map - 16'

[FruitFreak]

Out of the 3 options you provided I would do option one except would plant small/med compact varieties (unless where you move there will be room to plant large mango trees?)

Cogshall
Angie
Pickering

Would be a few possible ones.  Depending on what size trees you start with it may take some time for them to fill up your allowable sf area...

[Cookie Monster]

Depends on how mango trees react to your local climate. Here in FL, 8 foot spacing would not work past year 3, but I know the spoiled Californians can get away with ultra-close spacing.

You need to figure out how much the trees are going to grow in a single season in your area. From there you can figure out whether or not an annual pruning will be able to control them. If a typical mango tree puts in 4 feet per season in your area, cutting them back to a 4 foot stump each year is going to put a dent in your production. But if they only grow 2 feet a year, you might be able to swing an 8 foot space.

My recommendation, without knowing anything about growing mangoes in your area, would be to do 2 rows spaced 16 feet apart with 3 trees in each row. You can then put the smaller 3 trees on the south side, which will prevent them from shading out the trees on the north side (shadow will be cast on the north side, as equator is south of you).

[darkcoolboo]

@ FruitFreak - I don't have a problem with moving large trees and I would like to try the newer zill mangos, not just dwarfs. If I grow dwarfs what will I do with 6 mangos that taste the same? I'm better off choosing map 2 in that case if I want dwarfs.


@ Cookie Monster - Mangos grow slower in AZ because the frost stunts the growth. If a Californian gardener can work with 8', then I am likely to be able as well. If I do 2 rows with 3 trees in a row, then it makes 8' x 16' boxes. I'm not sure I agree with lopsided trees.


The second option certainly provides more options, since I can remove the dwarfs if they're not getting enough sun and pot them up easily. In addition, if I end up not being able to being my larger trees with me, I can still bring my dwarfs.
But If I can grow large trees like in option 1 without it being an issue, then I'm going to do it. I might just get some pots if I want to grow dwarfs.

[bsbullie]

So you are planting for 5 years and then plan on digging up the trees to move to a new property?  Are you taking into consideration the failure rate of moving a tree that has been in ground for 5 years?  What about the cost to move the trees?  What about the the delay in recovery and re-establishing for the trees that do survive?  Best to just start over with new trees.

What trees to plant?  Those that will do best in your area and those that YOU like the taste of.

What spacing?  Who really cares, its only for 5 years and then you will be gone.

[HIfarm]

If you are only planning on growing for 5 yrs & then moving, why not just plant in large pots that you can move with you?  It will be a lot cheaper than trying to move in-ground trees & will not have the survivability issue in moving them.

John

[Cookie Monster]

I didn't read the 5 year thing. Pulling them out of the ground after 5 years and keeping them alive is questionable.

[bsbullie]

If you are only planning on growing for 5 yrs & then moving, why not just plant in large pots that you can move with you?  It will be a lot cheaper than trying to move in-ground trees & will not have the survivability issue in moving them.

John

You would want or have to use fairly large, or even very large, pots to avoid suffering of the trees for being in smallish pots for 5 years.  Lets say you went with a 65 or 100 gal pot...you then have to consider the machinery, labor and transportation needed to move large trees in large pots.

[WGphil]

Pulling them up when they are starting to show the results of five years just to stunt them with a move. 

Doesn't sound prudent.

[HIfarm]

You would want or have to use fairly large, or even very large, pots to avoid suffering of the trees for being in smallish pots for 5 years.  Lets say you went with a 65 or 100 gal pot...you then have to consider the machinery, labor and transportation needed to move large trees in large pots.

Definitely not a cheap proposition -- you'd need a forktruck or tractor at each end to move them.  You could probably move a couple at  time in a pick up bed (if you prune them back) or more on a flat bed ...  Definitely not cheap but then again, replacing that number of large mango trees would not be cheap either.

John

[FruitFreak]

I just assumed that they would be potted due to you wanting to move them.  Like Rob mentioned I don't think it really matters for that period of time.  Your best bet is to use long term pots like fabric or rootbuilders, imho.  They should grow well leaving you with a very healthy root system when you're ready to install.