Ilama

[Epicatt2]

So why not ilama on its own roots in Florida?  Or is this mostly a problem with the soil type(s) in Florida –or maybe just some soil types in Florida?  Or soil pathogens?

Can such problems be overcome by keeping the ilama in a pot?

Just curious . . .

Paul M.
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[bsbullie]

https://irrecenvhort.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-prop-glossary/06-grafting/02-graftingtypes/08-grafting-inarching.html
You should look into Inarching just in case so you should can save the tree .
Incompatible graft intake years to fail but I'm maybe incorrect

In general, ilama have issues in Flirida with most rootstocks.  Some show early, some for not after a couple years.

I like to know what the best rootstock for ilama

There is not a lot of commercially grafted ilama in Florida.  Two main reasons are availability of the budwood (not as common and well known in general) and incompatibility with rootstock.   This is a big reason why seedlings are more commonly available. As I said, from talking to Gary Zill, he has tried many different types of rootstocks and has found this ine specific "secret" type of pond apple that works for him that stays compatible and fruits.

[Guanabanus]

Not enough ilama seedlings are available to graft onto, though they would be the best type of root-stock for ilama in most soils.

[Epicatt2]

Not enough ilamas to graft onto –likely due to difficulties of getting seed to germinate, prolly true, but . . .

How about starting air-layers on existing ilama trees?  Can one get a decent root system started that way which will support what would later be used as understock for gafting new varieties onto?

Paul M.
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[Mike T]

No rootstock at all. Seedlngs and marcots. They fruit fast.

[Epicatt2]

No rootstock at all. Seedlngs and marcots. They fruit fast.

Wait Mike . . .  Aren't marcots and air-layers the same thing???  That's what Google says, anyway.

So what're you suggesting?  Just air-layering (marcotting) branches of a chosen ilama cultivar to plant and grow up as the same cultivar as the source tree?

Please clarify, would you please?

Paul M.
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[Mike T]

I use the terms interchangeably. Yes hey airlayer/marcott well and can be done when dormant even and chopped off when they flush. No rejection issues and they throw roots out pretty fast. Seedlings fruit fast so this is a good option also.

[Sam]

My Ilama bore fruit for the first time this year (2) and I waited for them to crack on the tree before I harvested. They cracked and fell but the fruit was quite hard. I kept it waiting for them to get soft, they never did and eventually began to rot.

Was I supposed to harvest them in a different way?
Does the flesh get as soft as a sugar apple?

[Guanabanus]

No, the skin is tough and the pulp is much firmer (not hard) than sugar-apple when ripe.

Was your fruit split wide open, or just little cracks by the stem?

[bsbullie]

Texture is similar to a thick, creamy cheesecake.

[Sam]

No, the skin is tough and the pulp is much firmer (not hard) than sugar-apple when ripe.

Was your fruit split wide open, or just little cracks by the stem?

The fruit was split wide open and they actually fell to the ground.

[Guanabanus]

The flesh, still rock-hard at the moment of splitting, tends to re-seal / skin-over, with a dry, spoiled-looking membrane.  One peels this off when the fruit softens.  Once that scab is pulled off, the aromatic and attractive pulp is accessible.

[dross99_si]

Update:

Here is round 2. We let them split and fall off the tree this time. Got 2 so far and both are a little over 1lb each. Will post more pics once they (hopefully) ripen. How do these look to you guys?

[Guanabanus]

They look right.

[dross99_si]

They look right.

Thanks! Any clue on the variety, or can't really tell until we open them?

[dross99_si]

Our fruit have split quite a bit more just from sitting on the kitchen counter all day. So we are supposed to let the exposed white flesh form a skin and continue to wait for the fruit to soften before we can consume? We are new to eating Ilama so help would be appreciated. We don't want these to go to waste.

[Guanabanus]

They will smell very good, perfumy, when ready.  And will be soft enough to spoon.

[dross99_si]

They will smell very good, perfumy, when ready.  And will be soft enough to spoon.

Thank you. We’ll give them a few days. One has practically split in half on its own already.

[dross99_si]

So far we are a little disappointed with Ilama. It is not as sweet as I hoped. I like very sweet so this was no where near as appealing to me as the Atemoyas.
The texture is neat though. Very creamy almost like cheesecake. It did have a hint of berry flavor. Perhaps these first few fruits were a bit lackluster? Only tried one of the two so far.

[Guanabanus]

Ilama quality varies radically, on the same tree in different years, from heavenly to not fit, due to Florida weather.  We had way too much rain for too long  this year, but now is drier.  It is also quite late in the year.

Ilamas are tastiest when there is little rain during most of the fruit's development, and then heavy rain just before and during harvest.  That is what pretty consistently happens in western Guatemala and El Salvador.  There, most of the ilama harvest is in August.  They also have good volcanic soil.

[Tropical Bay Area]

No, the skin is tough and the pulp is much firmer (not hard) than sugar-apple when ripe.

Was your fruit split wide open, or just little cracks by the stem?

How cold can ilama take? I heard it is very cold sensitive, more so than a soursop.
Also how long do the seeds take without treatment? Is it possible to just take the embryo and plant it or scarification? Also har, what are all the annona hybrids to your knowledge?

Bill in Mountain View, Hawaii has a custard apple Rollinia hybrid
Here is pic:

Temoylama
Saramuyo(sugarlata)
Temoylata
Cherilata
Cherilama
Atemoya

[Guanabanus]

About 30-degrees F.

[Tropical Bay Area]

About 30-degrees F.

what are all the annona hybrids to ur knowledge?