The trees you mentioned will all fruit in pots, the key is adequate light and container size. With my smaller trees (Not producing fruit) a sunny window is enough but next year I'll be investing in supplemental light.
What about putting the pot by a southern window? It should get quite a bit of light
Think of how small of a percentage of the sky sphere your southern window gets, and thus what percentage of the sun's energy (direct fraction, indirect fraction). Now multiply by ~0,85 for double pane glass (assuming it's kept clean) for those losses.
Unless they're panoramic, south windows are best classified as partial shade. You need a plant that will fruit in partial shade. Heck, even with panoramic windows its more like "light shade"
Now, that said, I actually have some coffee that fruits from a *north* window. But remember that this is Iceland; in the summer the sun rises and sets in the north. 
(In the winter it gets supplemental lighting). And trust me, the yield isn't spectacular
Yes, growing in pots is a lot of work, expense and little reward. Much respect for your accomplishments, no matter how small in Iceland!!!
Recently moved two more trees out next to it (main purpose: freeing up some space in the grow room). Sorry, parrot, you no longer get a window view
The extra trees are now into larger pots, and I'm working on fixing some nutrient deficiencies in them. Also plan to do a heavy pruning on my main fruiting coffee tree. Who knows, maybe two years from now I'll advance from "a small coffee cup per year" to "a pot of coffee to share with friends"
hehe. This year I'm trying the "let the cherry dry with the bean still in it, then remove it" technique; I've heard that it imparts a fruity flavour to the coffee.
Still need to figure out how to get my acerola to be predictable in its fruiting. At least I've got the "pruning = flowering" trick down, and kind of have a handle on the cycling of soil moisture as a trigger. But I still haven't figured out how it decides when it wants to set fruit and when it doesn't (I hand pollinate).
I used to get physalis nonstop, but haven't gotten any for years. I know the poor thing is horribly rootbound, but I don't want it taking up any more space, so I think it's just given up and decided "I think I'll just do the whole "leaf" thing nonstop now, thanks"
Maybe I'll give in and give it a bigger pot to see what it does... can't imagine what that rootball looks like..
I have a vasconcella pubescens that I can't stop from flowering. But I've only got the one, and it's dioecious, so.... :Þ
I really want to get my monstera and my annona scleroderma to flower. I'd think both would be big enough. I recently spread some superphosphate around as a hint
My larger tamarind might be big enough to give it a go too, maybe, if I can convince it that it's happy enough
Still, it's always one step forward and one step back. For example, I added a new 1000W grow light a couple months ago. Still could use more light, but it's a more "normal" situation. Great! Except then I discovered, hey, now that you actually have some places that are outright
bright, you have to pay attention to cases of
excess light, not merely
insufficient light. Badly burned a salak and a garcinia. The salak might not make it. :Þ Also lost a couple plants recently learning a hard lesson about how much some plants hate ammonium fertilizers :Þ Note to Karen: lower pH with *sulfur*, not *ammonium fertilizers*.
But hey... good excuse for new seeds, right?
On the upside, I found a place I didn't think existed here: a company that imports and sells predatory insects! My first batch of "pets" will be arriving tomorrow. Goodbye, spider mites! Goodbye, fungus gnats!
(Wish I could find a good place to buy bulk pollen so I could feed the mite predators once they've exhausted their food supply...)
Topic: Are there any tropical fruit trees that will fruit indoors? (Read 1864 times)