The Tropical Fruit Forum

OK, well when I opened up the seed I thought I was only looking at one embryo but there must have been multiple.  I planted it and I had 4 or 5 shoots come up.  I already trimmed off the smaller ones.  Now I'm down to these 2.  The one with the leaves came up first and the taller one came up later.  Which one do you think I should narrow it down to?

I've been told that the Nam Doc Mai produces polyembryonic seeds.  My neighbor has a NDM that I thought was #4, just planted a few years ago...but I cracked open a seed and it only had one seed embryo in there.  Based on this, can I assume that it's a mono and any fruit that may grow from a seedling will be a mystery fruit?

OK, thanks!

Quote from: bbates123 on June 14, 2020, 09:23:47 AM

I think what I have is canker.  Here's my what my fruit looks like.  None of these taste good when mature.  The flesh is more "dry" than a traditional lemon, not sure how else to describe it.  Even when young. This is canker right?  And there is nothing I can do about it?  My friend's tree doesn't have this issue.  The skin looks fine and the flesh appears normal.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Canker+Symptoms+in+Citrus&FORM=IARSLK

Thank you!

Is there such a thing?  Like many naive homeowners when I first moved to SW FL in 2015 I planted a Myers lemon tree.  Sure enough, within a year or so (maybe less) it got greening.  At this point I'm not sure what to do besides rip it out and plant something else.  It looks OK but the fruit are terrible.  But here's my question...  I have a friend here in Cape Coral who cut his tree down 15 whatever years ago when the county required all homeowners to do so for canker control.  From the stump a small shoot grew, which developed into a nice tree that produces vast amounts of nice fruit ever year.  This tree doesn't seem to be affected by any diseases as far as I can tell.  Is it possible that whatever the rootstock of this tree was is more resistant to disease and that's why it's thriving?  I took some cuttings today to see if I could get them to root.

I use only electrical tape here but its not as good as grafting tape.Good idea to use white tape to reflect the heat.

I still like to use the grafting tape to cover everything, it's just the electrical tape to more tightly secure the junctions.

I know this subject came up before but I don't think there was any consensus on this topic at the time.  I'm a newbie to grafting, just started my first mango grafts yesterday.  One Lemon Meringue scion onto rootstock, one Lemon Meringue scion onto a Sweet Tart tree, and one Pickering onto the same Sweet Tart.  These were all cleft grafts.  Though I did my best to ensure that there were no air gaps between the scion and the host, I wanted to be extra sure everything was tight.  First I used a cable tie to hold everything together nice and tight while I buddy wrapped everything from below the host cut to the top of the scion.  Then I cut the cable tie off and added some buddy tape where it was. Finally, I wrapped electrical tape nice and snug where everything came together in the notch.  I was sure to wrap the electrical tape over the buddy tape so there was no direct contact on the bark which might cause difficulties in taking it off later.  I know a lot of people use cut rubber bands, it just seemed easier and more snug using electrical tape.  Other than one Youtube video from a guy in India I haven't really seen this technique used.  For what it's worth I did get white electrical tape so as not to conduct as much heat in this hot Florida sun.  Anybody see any issues with this?

...and to a lesser extent squirrels?  I have 2 small mango trees and 2 small avocado trees and unless I pick the fruit green they tend to get most of my crop.  Short of trapping them, are there any effective deterrents?  I was looking at nylon fruit bags but I suspect they can chew right threw them.  I've tried solar powered ultrasonic repellers but those didn't seem to work. 

Thanks, I'll probably plant a few and see what happens.  I was just curious if I will get some kind of fruiting tree, even if it's not atemoya.  My assumption is it will either be atemoya or sugar apple or cherimoya is that right?

Here's a picture of what one of the seedlings looks like:

Thanks!  Boy that's surprising - they look full grown already.

Copper Sulfate is quite effective against anthracnose, but only slightly effective against Powdery Mildew.  If you keep your spray mix constantly shaken, you can spray with elemental Sulfur--- do not mix elemental Sulfur with Copper Sulfate, or with most other Copper molecules, as Copper ions become very toxic to plants in highly acidic tank mixes.

Spread more than half of that fertilizer out on the grass outside the ring.  Make sure you use fertilizer containing micronutrients, including Zinc.  Make sure your soil has plenty of Calcium, or add Calcium Sulfate--- it provides also protection against fertilizer-imbalance burns and excess salt build-ups.

Occasionally provide a deep watering--- not just grass root-depth watering--- perhaps just once a month, since the tree already looks reasonably well.

Thank you!