The Tropical Fruit Forum

I found this info.

Shonan-gold' was selected and produced from a cross between 'Ogon-kan' (Citrus flaviculpus hort ex.Tanaka) and Satsuma mandarin cv. 'Imamura Unshiu' (Citrus unshiu Marc.) in 1988. As a point of almost same tree and fruit characteristics, it was considered as nucellar seedling of 'Ogon-kan' . It was registered as 'Shonan-gold' in 2003. The tree is vigorous upright-growing and has tiny thorns in the young stage, but thorns disappear and the tree attitude is gradually spreading with the year. If young trees are left untreated, there is a long period before fruit bearing. Therefore, it is very important to train lateral branches to open early. It is productive but with tendency to heavy alternate bearing. It is effective to enlargement of fruit size by fruit thinning in July. Fruits size are larger than that of 'Ogon-kan' , averaging about 11%, The fruit shape is globose. The rind is moderately smooth, thin, yellowish color and readily peelable . Flesh is very tender and juicy, flavor is pleasant, and aromatic similar to 'Ogon-kan' . The fruit contains few seeds. The fruit matures in April and good taste is kept from April to May. Planting of 'Shonan-gold' should be restricted to the windless and warmer coastal regions in winter because of its very late harvesting as on April. https://agris.fao.org/agris-search/search.do?recordID=JP2005002273

The rings. On most trees there is an inner plastic ring. These are edging pieces from Home Depot that you attach to each other. The outer rings are poured concrete. The inner rings are mainly for when the trees are young. The outer rings were to keep the gardener from hitting the trees with the weed wacker.
Both rings are for more efficient watering and fertilization. When one waters their trees without especially the inner circle very little of the water goes straight down into the earth but when you have that circle and the bottom of the plastic is inserted into the earth a little bit then the water and liquid fertilizer goes straight down into the ground near the rootball. You can water or fertilize 100 young trees perfectly in a very short time this way. In the next few days I’ll make a short video of my fertilization technique. Over the years I use this technique to “push” my young trees to grow. This technique never causes burning and 100% of the liquid complete fertilizer is utilized. You can fertilize every week or bi weekly or monthly just simply by changing the concentration. And I push the young trees hard till they’ve been in the ground for 3 full years. And any fruit on those trees before the complete end of year 3 is picked off when tiny and thrown on the ground so that all energy goes into the wood so the tree can get big and strong for year 4 production.
So I’ll make the video soon and put it here. I use a 9-3-6 complete fertilizer with all the micros.

So the 4 year mark includes avocados as well as mangos ?

I have 15 varieties of avocado on approximately 32 trees and that includes Hass Carmen and the vc801 Catalina Semil 34 Miguel Lula Pollack Simmons Donnie Nishikawa Oro Negro Wilson Propenoe Monroe and Maluma

its very impressive. here is my little yard lol.

avocados
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdItGKiVDb4

stonenfruit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vlati2GFLTQ

citrus
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq_5ba2kBc8

Once the citrus tree is full size it doesn't need a ton of nitrogen.  Some of you guys are nitrogen freaks.  Using jacks and spraying urea totally overkill here, my trees are green and healthy with just mulch and occasional chicken manure and maybe some citrus fertilizer (8-6-8 with micros) and handful of 0-0-22

This last year it was just mulch and chicken poop and very little if any bag fertilizer, trees were loaded up so much branches are hanging down and bending to the point of almost broken.

Thats what I heard from Tom Spellman who works with UC Davis , Riverside and other places and speaks at those venues.

Cool, I grew up in Stockton.  We never had avocados but we grew a lot of citrus and peaches.  Pistachios there are super good too, if they would grow here I'd be all about those.

I also have 22 different citrus varieties and 12 different stonefruit varieties. I did a video tour of my yard in 4 parts. I've updated this video and have added other fruit trees and removed some as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th2uh7juix4

that is a small seed.  sir prize also has a ver good seed to flesh ratio and has a soft melting flesh similar to JB.

the 2 trees that did not do well for me were a holiday that died and a sir prize I gave to my son in law and it died.

when they are young/tender plants they need protection from the cold until they are established. if outdoors like that they need to be covered and even place some christmas lights on them for additional warmth and some mulch. I would also mound them when planting.

What satsuma's have you tried that you like ?

I would go with whatever one you prefer.

wow Brad those fujikawa looks great and they produced from a seedling 2 years ago ?

Good feedback on the shasta's as I have 5 on my tree this year and I'm waiting until February to try one. My tahoes look ripe on the outside and I tried one last week but they are still not ready so I'm leaving them until February as well when I will be doing a taste test side by side with my Sumo's, Tango's and Honeys as well.

I still have them. No change the Gem grows very small inherits the typical dwarfism of Hass.   Reed grows well but some times does not set fruit and around this time fruit drops from the tree,  and taste very watery.

ok thanks I'm growing both and have heard from California growers they are outstanding in taste and production. My trees are young but I'm hoping my Reed will produce this season and my Gem the following year.

Yes I'm waiting until February to pick and eat the 4 fruit on my tree.

I'm not familiar with the aging concept with citrus.

Brad yours is loaded, how tall is that tree and how old? thanks !