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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« Last post by growinginphoenix on Today at 05:46:28 PM »
I have a very high success rate on lychees, rambutan, sapodilla, wax apple, guava, langsat, sour sop, canistel and others. In the last 2 weeks I have put over 200 marcots on my trees and expect most to work well from experience. Pity its hard to post pics these days.
Anyway I see a few red flags in the pics and descriptions. Ideal branch width is 1cm to 3 cm but micromarcots are easy. Ideal ringbark width is 1cm to 2cm not like in the pics below. Paint or brush with rootex or clonex 8g per l concentration. I prefer gel to powder. Have pre prepared ziplock (I use 15 x 9cm mostly) cut on one side then tape over ring back. Tape it up well. Aluminium foil does not change the success rate. Remove in 4 weeks to 6 months with 8 weeks being average. Make sure they are well rooted unlike the plant below in the pic. Trim then pot. EASY. The mix in the bag I use is 50 : vermiculite and coco coir but sphagnum is fine. Below does look too leafy with too many roots and should be settled in a pot until properly rooted.The ties shown are less secure and looser than using electrical tape. The width of bark removed below is way in excess of required. In many cases it works out better than grafting for tree vigour and speed to fruiting.

A note for very hot and dry climates. Aluminum foil is helpful for preventing the mix from drying out so quickly if it gets any sun at all. Where I am I would have to water my marcots several times a week if I didn't have the foil on them. Even with the foil I need to check on them every week. I expect Mike doesn't need to water his at all where he is.
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Nangka mini jackfruit in the USA?
« Last post by Fygee on Today at 05:45:27 PM »
Sign me up for seeds of these as well. Would like to try this in a big pot and keep it indoors in the winter.
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Very helpful video! Thanks 👍👍
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Pouteria lucuma
« Last post by MarktLee on Today at 05:32:31 PM »
I have plenty of Lucuma rootstock and looking for scions of the named varieties. If any one has some available and the scions are ready to bud I'd be interested.

I'm down in San Diego and the one at the botanical garden is just too dryer me.

Thanks,

Mark
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Ok, will check my grafts later, I did my grafts 3 weeks after the last shipment to people who purchased them.

Here's my seed germination status. At least there will be seedlings.







How much sun do guava sprouts like this take? I have some that I put out in full sun with 90s F and they don't seem to like it. I just moved them into full shade but not sure if my guess that the sun was too much is right.
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It sorta looks like salt injury. I would hold off on any more salts / fertilizers.
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Great information from Alex and Har as usual. It’s amazing how much you can improve production with consistent spraying. I always appreciate the advice from these Mango gurus.

Simon
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« Last post by brian on Today at 05:22:26 PM »
Thanks, all, for the suggestions.  I have trimmed the leaves back more severely.

I have a very high success rate on lychees, rambutan, sapodilla, wax apple, guava, langsat, sour sop, canistel and others. In the last 2 weeks I have put over 200 marcots on my trees and expect most to work well from experience. Pity its hard to post pics these days.
Anyway I see a few red flags in the pics and descriptions. Ideal branch width is 1cm to 3 cm but micromarcots are easy. Ideal ringbark width is 1cm to 2cm not like in the pics below. Paint or brush with rootex or clonex 8g per l concentration. I prefer gel to powder. Have pre prepared ziplock (I use 15 x 9cm mostly) cut on one side then tape over ring back. Tape it up well. Aluminium foil does not change the success rate. Remove in 4 weeks to 6 months with 8 weeks being average. Make sure they are well rooted unlike the plant below in the pic. Trim then pot. EASY. The mix in the bag I use is 50 : vermiculite and coco coir but sphagnum is fine. Below does look too leafy with too many roots and should be settled in a pot until properly rooted.The ties shown are less secure and looser than using electrical tape. The width of bark removed below is way in excess of required. In many cases it works out better than grafting for tree vigour and speed to fruiting.

Thanks for the detailed advice!
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Can you bury passionflower trunk?
« Last post by NickD on Today at 05:06:39 PM »
I ended up cracking the base of a 5yo vine in a large pot they get very brittle. It looked intact but u could see the vine just dry up.

I currently have 2 purple in 35 gallon pots 3 and 1 yo. Looks like I may get 75 fruits this spring. I am curious about what is the max number you could grow in a large container? I staring doing proper pruning (not perfect) this year and it made a difference.
My maypop had about 20 fruits on its first year in a 5gal pot, although I accidentally snapped a large chunk of vine when I tried moving it inside to finish ripening after the frost, so only 8 of them actually ended up ripening. In a larger container, with a more mature plant, and a longer growing season, I would think you could get quite a lot.
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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Can you bury passionflower trunk?
« Last post by NickD on Today at 05:03:00 PM »
the older trunks are susceptible to fungus. are you able to lift the plant out of the pot? if the roots are substantial the whole plant root system should pop out with the soil. then you can add soil to the pot. i have a short video of what the root system looks like on a 3 gallon plant https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LeF0tpc2Vbw notice the entire rootball came out with barely any soil visible
The soil is kind of heavy so I'd be worried about snapping the trunk or roots if I started pulling on it, but once it's warm enough to bring them outside (mid-May), I can try and hold the containers upside down and see if the root ball can slide out.
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