The Tropical Fruit Forum

Can you take a photo of your tree showing the original Eureka portion (variety grafted) and the rootstock shoots you are talking about. It sounds to me that your grafted scionwood is dead so the rootstock has taken over the tree. This happens a lot, I have seen on many nursery purchased tree. The rootstock will usually be stronger than the grafted scion so if there is any disease or other issues, the top of the tree usually will die back first, then it may come back or just die and the rootstock will still be alive and maybe that is what you are seeing. When this happens to my potted trees, I just let the rootstock grow out and graft another variety onto it. For Eureka lemons, here is CA they usually use macrophylla for the rootstock so if you show a photo, I can tell you what it is.

he is very arrogant and thinks that he is the only one who has loquats. I was able to secure some cuttings from other sellers here who are humble and down to earth. Don't waste your time on him LOL.

I disagree. Kaz contributes greatly to this forum. Anytime I get from Kaz is honored.

Ok, found some of my photos from this year.

Here's one branch (1/10th of the whole tree) that I cut from Nagami, you can see the density of the fruits on the branch, all the other branches had the same amount of fruits.

That will be a challenge for someone to remove. Such a delicate plant

To remove the vine may take a while to do without damaging the root system or stressing the vine.

One way would be to wet the roots 'til they turn green, showing that they have abosrbed the water.

Once wet like that, gently roll a root side to side, but gently, 'til it comes loose from the substrate that it's
affixed to.  The object is to save as much of the root system without bruising, breaking, or damaging them.
The roots can be quite brittle so it is important to take time to loosen them slowly and gently while they
are still green with water which does make them slightly less brittle.

Another way to remove the dampened roots is to use a very thin bladed, clean knife and gently slide it
under the roots holding the blade as parallel as possible against the substrate to help loosen the roots
from the substrate.

You will want to work on one root at a time.  This is, true, very time consuming but it is important not
to stress the plant by damaging the roots because this tropical vine needs its root system intact to grow
and thrive in its new situation and it doesn't replace its roots quickly if they are damaged.

OK — HTH

Paul M.
==

I have seen many kumquat trees with lots of fruits. It seems all the Nagami kumquat trees I know from friends and fruit collectors has the most fruits. Meiwa might be the worst fruit production of the kumquats.

So, to give you an example, I have seen Nagami trees that are in pots (4-5 ft tall) with over 500 ripe fruits at a time. Also have seen last year ripened Nagami fruits on in-ground older trees (maybe 7-15 yrs) with over 2,000 fruits. You can pick 1 pound of fruits daily for a few weeks. I got some of those very productve tree cuttings and have gotten fruits on the grafts the next year. I did have some photos but now I can't find it. If I find the photos, I will post it for you. These trees are from 4-5 people I know. I have Meiwa, Maru, and Nagami (recent graft, small branch) and the Meiwa has low fruit production. But when I went to the UCR/CCPP citrus research grove, their Maru (older trees) had good number of fruits that we got to pick and eat. The Nagami trees there at UCR still had the most fruits. It's really easy to spot a healty Nagami tree when it has fruits, it is usually completley covered with fruits so the entire canopy will be orange color and fruits galore.

The seedless nagami (Nordmann kumquat) also has the same amount of fruits (tons) just like the seeded version, Nagami. I can find the photo of the Nordmann fruits since I remember recently taking photos of that tree this year.