Companion planting, to alter pH and/or absorb harmful chemicals

[FlyingFoxFruits]

I've been trying to figure out if certain plants can alter pH, or even absorb some of the chemicals added to city water.

The goal would be to plant those species next to plants with sensitivities, so less applications of expensive products like chelated Fe would be required.

I've collected certain FL native grasses that grow near coastal areas, and planted them in the same pot with a jaboticaba...they seem to help reduce the problems I've had, associated with growing jaboticabas irrigated with city water.

I wonder what other plants might alter pH or absorb harmful chemicals?  Comfrey?

[nullzero]

I've been trying to figure out if certain plants can alter pH, or even absorb some of the chemicals added to city water.

The goal would be to plant those species next to plants with sensitivities, so less applications of expensive products like chelated Fe would be required.

I've collected certain FL native grasses that grow near coastal areas, and planted them in the same pot with a jaboticaba...they seem to help reduce the problems I've had, associated with growing jaboticabas irrigated with city water.

I wonder what other plants might alter pH or absorb harmful chemicals?  Comfrey?

Adam,

Good topic to bring up. Usually any pioneer plant should be able to handle the harsh conditions. I am finding Silene inflata to be a great companion plant. Obvious nitrogen fixers are good pairs, but for containers I think herbaceous perennials work best. I am also testing out Plantago major, Plantago lanceolata both seem to be compatible and not reduce the vigor of the main plant. Also getting good results with Stevia rebaudiana.

Wanted to add also oregano and ground cover rosemary look promising for companion planting with fruit trees.

[Kay]

we practice polyculture heavily.  i am not sure specifically about species with PH, but have heard of it.  i am just not sure they will have that dramatic an effect directly outside their root zone?

for taking out stuff, many gourds/squash type plants work.  you may be interested in reading topics like phytoremediation.  for heavy metals you want to be using plants, pull them out and dump them somewhere already polluted badly and not being used (dont compost or burn).  fungi do wonders, and you can even use left over farm waste (if its clean) to use as mushroom base, eat the mushrooms, and use the spent mycelium/substrate out as a mulch to eat up nasty chemicals.  what they can do for soil remediation is amazing.  i feel mushrooms are so important, we will be building a mushroom house at our new farm.

[mangomike]

I recently posted in another thread about a study on the use of vetiver grass (Vetiveria zizanoides) as bioremediation for fuel-contaminated soil. I know that the root system of this species is extensive (goes down 2-3 meters) and it is used for erosion control in tropical climates. It does not take much frost, if any.i

If your plants are in a greenhouse in pots, it might be a candidate for modifying the chemistry of the rhizosphere.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

thanks very much to all who've added to this conversation!

I have lots to learn about the relationships between plants!

[Saltcayman]

Very cool grass mike. Thanks!

I recently posted in another thread about a study on the use of vetiver grass (Vetiveria zizanoides) as bioremediation for fuel-contaminated soil. I know that the root system of this species is extensive (goes down 2-3 meters) and it is used for erosion control in tropical climates. It does not take much frost, if any.i

If your plants are in a greenhouse in pots, it might be a candidate for modifying the chemistry of the rhizosphere.

[Mark in Texas]

I've been trying to figure out if certain plants can alter pH, or even absorb some of the chemicals added to city water.

Curious, what harmful chemicals are you talking about and exactly what harm are they doing to your faves?

The only "harmful chemicals"  I have in my well water is very high amounts of Mg and Ca bicarbonates.  Bicarbs really aren't harmful in terms of plant health..... just influential regarding element antagonism and a nuisance regarding bicarb salt buildup in and on pots, evaporative wet pads, etc.

I'd be concerned that your companion plants would be robbing your faves of nutritional elements and moisture.

Mark

[OrganicJim]

I am using the pigeond pea, Cananus cajan, extensively around many of the trees I have in the ground. Great for fixing nitrgen and it provides a good food source. Their tap root helps breakup the hardpan I have in some areas. They can become a fairly large bush so spacing it somithing you have to look at.
I also use a lot of various herbs to control insects and discourage rodents.

[JeffDM]

I'll admit that as a rookie I don't understand a lot of the conversations here, but I always come away learning something new.
The mention of Vetiver Grass caused me to look it up, find a source and buy a sample pack of six plants on Amazon.com.
I've been trying to find economical ways to control the erosion of the slope behind my house and this might help.
It also might make a good screen for the side of my house since it appears to grow fast and stay in a clump.

[Kay]

grasses are nice cause they are fast, but remember using plants t o wick up nasty stuff takes a fair bit longer.  a few years anyway.  great for erosion, which is a huge problem for us as well in wet season.  currently i am using lemon grass around my perimeter, but the roots are shallow and weak.  i just use it as a weed barrier, only some vines grow through it and are easy to pull out.

if you are dealing with things that are organic and break down (ie not metals) then mushroom enzymes may help.  growing any species should help, but oyster mushrooms are very easy, yummy, and very very effective.  you could probably go to a mushroom farm and ask them for their "fresh" contaminated jars/bags etc that are getting thrown out.  they will be riddled with mold, but if you can score some still white ones, break it up over the area with some mushroom food (probably straw with a sprinkling of coco coir) and they will grow a bit and leak down their enzymes and mycelium into the soil.

if there is any interest i can post a couple papers done here on heavy metal phytoremediation (using plants).  has some lists of species that worked better etc.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

Mark,

mainly additives that the municipalities put in our city water....

Chlorine, Fluoride, (Hexafluorosilicic acid ), Sodium hexafluoridosilicate(2–), and probably a bunch of other goodies that are added to our water.

They seem to do a number on some of the species I grow...especially the rare tropical ones!

I bet the chemicals don't affect our health though...

.

I've been trying to figure out if certain plants can alter pH, or even absorb some of the chemicals added to city water.

Curious, what harmful chemicals are you talking about and exactly what harm are they doing to your faves?

The only "harmful chemicals"  I have in my well water is very high amounts of Mg and Ca bicarbonates.  Bicarbs really aren't harmful in terms of plant health..... just influential regarding element antagonism and a nuisance regarding bicarb salt buildup in and on pots, evaporative wet pads, etc.

I'd be concerned that your companion plants would be robbing your faves of nutritional elements and moisture.

Mark

[Kay]

chlorines will evaporate when exposed to light.  is it possible you pump into a holding pond before watering?  There are methods of separating the others as well, but it may be too involved.  But it seems counter productive to try and clean the dirt of substances constantly being put in via irrigation.

Is a well a possible alternative?

[FlyingFoxFruits]

chlorines will evaporate when exposed to light.  is it possible you pump into a holding pond before watering?  There are methods of separating the others as well, but it may be too involved.  But it seems counter productive to try and clean the dirt of substances constantly being put in via irrigation.

Is a well a possible alternative?

i understand that some of these compounds containing chlorine won't readily dissipate.  (for instance chloramines)

also I believe fluoride doesn't go away with evaporation.

[JeffDM]

The more I read about the Vetiver grass the more I'm looking forward to my experiment with controlling the erosion on my backyard bank.
My first sample shipment (6 plants) is on its way from Puerto Rico and the best part is that it qualifies for USPS flat rate shipping.
There also appears to be no problems with shipping the plants to Calif.

Update:
I'm amazed that it only took two days for my shipment of Vetiver grass to go from Puerto Rico to San Diego, Ca. via USPS.

[fruitlovers]

The nurseryman's association here was active in stopping fluoridation of our water using studies which show fluoride is harmful to many plants, especially those grown here for foliage use by florists.

"From their studies the authors make the following recommendations to growers of fluoride-sensitive plants:

1. Avoid use of superphosphate. (Obtain phosphorus from nonfluoride fertiliser.)
2. Elevate pH 6.0 to 6.5. (Add lime, dolomite or calcium to soil mix.)
3. Avoid soil mixes containing fluoride. (Test for soluble fluoride.)
4. Reduce transpiration, (Avoid high light intensities, excessive air movement high temperatures and low humidity.)
5. Eliminate fluoride in water. (Use water containing less than 0.10 ppm fluoride, especially for propagation of sensitive plants.)

Plants which showed marked sensitivity to fluoride included:

Cordyline terminal is 'Baby Doll' (Baby Doll Ti)

Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' (Warneck Dracaena)

D. dereminsis 'Janet Craig' (Janet Craig Dracaena)

Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)

Fluoride is probably a causal agent of foliar damage to several other foliage plants including:

Aspidistra e/af/or (Cast-Iron Plant)

Calathea insignis (Rattlesnake Plant)

C. Makoyana (Peacock Plant)

Ctenanthe 'Dragon Tracks' (Dragon Tracks)

Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (Massangeana)

D. marginata (Madagascar Dragon-Tree)

D. Sanderana (Ribbon Dracaena)

Maranta leuconeura erythroneura (Red-Nerve Plant)

M. leuconeura Kerchoviana (Prayer Plant)

Nature of Damage

In the case of Baby Doll Ti the damage occurs as "small, brown necrotic lesions on the leaf tip which enlarge and coalesce until the whole leaf may become necrotic." In Warneckii Dracaena the necrotic areas develop "along the margins and also in white portions of leaves." In Janet Dracaena the damage "is exhibited by necrotic leaf tips which are usually bordered by a chlorotic band."

The extreme sensitivity of Baby Doll tip cuttings rooted in water was revealed when tap water containing only 0.25ppm fluoride caused "necrotic lesions on the leaf margins of the older leaves." Further studies disclosed similar damage "when the water contained fluoride concentrations as low as 0.15 parts per million" in propagation experiments.


http://www.fluoridationfacts.com/ausfnews/sepoct04/plants_flowers.htm

[JeffDM]

These are the plugs of Vetiver grass that I just got from Agriflora Tropicals in Puerto Rico.
As a test, I'm potting one up on the patio to see how quickly it grows in good potting soil and I'm planting the rest on a test strip on the slope behind my house.  If all goes well, and they grow as quickly as claimed then I'll buy a pack of 30 or 45 to begin securing the hillside.

[mangomike]

Jeff,

Please post some photos of your erosion control project. I'd love to see how that develops.

Vetiver is a great plant for erosion control. It also make a surprising amount of mulch.

[JeffDM]

Mulch?
Is that from cutting the tops?
I'm just about ready to order more grass plugs and buy more pressure treated wood to attempt to terrace the hillside.
Slow going because I'm old, the slope is steep, it's covered with some prickly tumbleweed plants and the dentist just got a bunch of my money.
 

[Guanabanus]

I don't know for fluoride or chloramine removal.

For lead, arsenic, and cadmium removal grow ferns, and send fronds to a toxic waste facility.