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Messages - Triloba Tracker

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Passionfruit juice?
« on: August 13, 2018, 04:45:41 PM »
I do what rob suggested with my Passiflora incarnata (maypop) pulp.

But usually I just eat the fruits fresh with the seeds. Been eating a few a day lately and possible all that roughage is a little irritating.
I have not found the seeds to have much taste so blending it all together may be viable.

Would love to know more about the wine...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Banner year for sugar apples
« on: August 10, 2018, 02:27:59 PM »
I hope to one day be in a similar boat, in "annonaceae" heaven with Asimina triloba fruits in a few years.

What cultivars do you have?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Children and Grafting
« on: August 10, 2018, 12:19:29 PM »
i'm far from an expert on grafting but i would say that as long as the union was not torqued or disturbed and it wasn't exposed long enough to cause dessication, you're probably no worse off.
But I could be totally wrong.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango Terroir - The Next Frontier
« on: August 08, 2018, 01:34:25 PM »
I think your concept here is totally valid. Go for it!

Definitely those in France growing grapes and making wine are part of and can change the environment.
There could be argument about semantics but thatís a side point and maybe sport for some of us who love arguing about words and grammar, like me  ;D
The word ďnaturalĒ could be understood as ďbiologicalĒ or more as ďnative.Ē  The former would include intentionally humanly controlled inputs, while the latter wouldnít really.
Lastly, I think (not a wine or French language expert) that terroir is usually used in context of unknowable/unexplainable/uncontrollable biological factors (air quality for example) that result in different wine attributes among the same wines made in different regions.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango Terroir - The Next Frontier
« on: August 08, 2018, 09:58:17 AM »
I would agree with Rob that the true notion of terroir is that of the naturally occurring environment, but certainly thereís merit in at least attempting to document factors that can influence flavor/texture/quality.
Maybe call it something else for the sake of us purists  LOL

Shameless one-time bump

Any opinions on the above?

This just occurred to me - if the soil is too wet (temporarily, hopefully) such that root function is impaired, could it be that the leaves are effectively cooking due to inhibited water movement/transpiration? the older leaves do look like they are ďburningĒ. A couple of the trees are pushing new leaves while others are doing nothing.

If this hypothesis is correct, I could shade them - would this help?

Too much organic matter, when wet, can go into poisonous fermentation by anaerobic bacteria--- water rot, which is stinky.  Is your stuff stinky?

I sometimes see mangos planted in pure decomposed mulch--- very bad idea--- sick, defoliating tree, perpetually wobbly roots in muddy soil.

Thanks Har. Yes, I hear ya. No, no foul smells that I detected and I was looking out for that.

Really didnít do much prep to the soil. I put thin layer of aged cow manure under the mulch and it lay fallow for about a year before planting. I did not amend the backfill when planting. Soil was reasonably friable it seemed to me - were not talking red clay or something.
I hope they will pull thru. 2 full hot days with full sun on the exposed soil now, but just below surface still wet. Mind you, Iím not talking soupy  ;)

What kinds of trees are in the wet area?  Some things dont even really mind it.  In central california a lot of the soil is geavy clay and they do floor irrigation and things grow just fine.

Right - the reason I suspected a problem is I was seeing leaf issues - black spots on undersides followed by just leaf death from the lowest leaves upward.
These are Asimina triloba, which are native to Tennessee. In the wild they often grow near creeks and rivers, so generally pretty water loving. I just think they couldnít breathe in my conditions.


I think issue is 95% too much mulch, 2% unnecessary irrigation and 3% soil composition.

That doesnt really sound right.  It sounds like the soil is the main problem as its not draining well and its constantly wet because it rains a lot there or you are over watering.

You need the mulch to help fix the clay soil.  The worms will help move it down hopefully but clay is like a sponge.  Its not going to be easy to fix that especially if theres already plants there.

I see what youíre saying. The only other consideration is that 60% of the orchard  area seems fine, same soil. Though this wet section is the lower part of the slope but itís not the bottom or a basin of any kind.
Yes, plants already there so not a lot of options.
I will top dress with some organic matter and will replace the mulch but not as deep.
Weíll see. Maybe this spot is doomed unless I divert some water.

Oh - and the reason the whole area is not affected is that this section was mulched at a different time and with different load of wood chips.
I had this strange notion these chips would compact more or break down faster so I piled it higher. This was all done a year before planting.
Hindsight 20/20 and all that....

Thanks guys
The wet area is maybe 200-300 square feet.
The whole spot is maybe 600 sq ft.
The entire area does have a nice minor slope to it, so itís not that water is ponding.
I think issue is 95% too much mulch, 2% unnecessary irrigation and 3% soil composition.
The mulch also is probably too fine - it was tree trimmer chips but a lot of pine needles mixed in.

Nice hot sunny day today and another tomorrow before rain in the forecast, so I have removed all mulch in about 2 foot radius and beyond that I removed all but 1-2 inches.
The trees are very small so the drip line is practically nothing.

I did some light spading too - I hope I didnít damage roots. I did see some small  roots which is encouraging that trees are getting established.

My goal is to re mulch with chunkier wood chips to only 2-3 inches.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / I Turned My Orchard Into a Swamp - now what?
« on: August 02, 2018, 08:42:57 PM »
Iíve just come to the realization that I have basically been drowning my newly planted trees by surrounding them with excessively deep woodchip mulch. Clay soil is compounding the problem.
The soil around the trees seems rather like mud.

To remedy this, I have cleared away the mulch in a 2 foot diameter around the tree to temporarily expose the soil to speed drying.

What else can I do, if anything?

Would spading around the tree help/hurt?
What about working up the very top layer of soil 1-2 inches to increase surface area for evaporation?

My plan was to eventually add a much thinner layer of mulch back once moisture levels seem more normal.

I've come close to ordering so many times but convince myself it's an extravagance.....maybe next year :)

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: sugar apple
« on: July 31, 2018, 12:33:20 PM »
Also, assuming you're talking about Annona squamosa, this isn't a temperate fruit, so this post shouldn't be in the Temperate board :)
 ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)

Iveckilled a large tree letting it hold huge crops year after year.


Just curious - was this with hand-pollinating or no?

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Maypop (Passiflora incarnata) Thread
« on: July 29, 2018, 02:52:58 PM »
How big or mature do these vines need to be before they produce fruit? I bought a small vine from the nursery about 2 or 3 months ago. I have replanted it into a bigger and deeper pot. The pot is a little bigger than a 6gal paint bucket. It has grown 2x longer/bigger. The main stalk is about 1/2'' think.


In my experience, there is no maturity requirement - they fruit for me in first season from seed.
Not really a magic size in my experience either. I think the plant just has to be happy, and that means as much sun as you can possibly give it (6 hours minimum), proper water levels (I think drier is better) and adequate nutrition. I have come to conclusion that they donít like chemical fertilizers. I have had best luck with fish emulsion or organic granulated like Holly Tone. I have also had limited success with pots. I have had fruit on potted vines but they much prefer being in the ground.
Out of all that I think sun is the most important.
Also you may have a risk of too much pot. They donít need that much room at a young age. You also run greater risk of overwatering and root rot. Iíve  had flowers on vines in 4 inch pots. I think constricted roots may actually promote flowering but not sure.
Good luck!

It's overrated. It's basically Irwin Mango that originated from South Florida. The only different is they rotate the mango so the mango get sun all 360 degree so that the mango turn red evenly. Just look at this video:

Japanese has the habit of turning regular thing turn into expensive thing, like giving beer to cow and make them super expensive beef etc.
Or growing melons in square cases. Or just selling exorbitantly-priced melons, period :)
But i do like melons.
And North American pawpaw is popular in Japan, so I can't complain about that.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Asiminaholics Anonymous
« on: July 24, 2018, 02:38:19 PM »
Welp, so much for the Nolin River trees being anything to write home about. My KSU 4-1 tree from them has died. The Susquehanna (like the 4-1 before it died) has about 2 inch leaves and has been stuck in that state for 2 months.

Seems like all the literature is true - bare-root pawpaws just is NOT the way to go.

All my container-grown trees are doing well, especially the seedlings.
One of my Sunflower seedlings has grown over 3 feet since being planted. Others are not far behind.

I will replace the dead 4-1 with some of my grafts this year which have done very well. I have 2 Jerry's Big Girl (winner 2017 Best Pawpaw at the Ohio Pawpaw Festival), 2 Rebecca's Gold, the aforementioned "Old Hickory" and another semi-wild selection (planted tree of unknown origin).
I also have a seedling of Lehman's Delight and Al Horn i hope to plant next spring.

Then I think i will finally call it quits!

P.S. I think after my experience so far, I would recommend shading all newly-planted trees, seedling or grafted, with 50% shade cloth for the first year.
I kept my grafted trees in full sun - they are alive and have new growth, but they don't seem as happy as the seedlings in the shade.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: 2018 Wild Pawpaw Watch Thread
« on: July 18, 2018, 02:33:57 PM »
Wild crop this year isn't looking too shabby. Overall in the few patches I frequent, I would say production will be better than last year.

2 of 3 wild grafts I did this year seem to be successful, and I also tried planting some seeds in the woods for the first time.
Varmints dug up a lot of them, but as of a week or so ago, I had 2 successful sprouts coming up. I need to get some chicken wire or something around them if I really want to ensure their survival.

Also I have 2 grafts going strong using scions from 2 wild trees that I selected (1 is possibly a grafted tree of unknown variety). So that's kind of cool. Hope to plant them here in my "orchard" in the spring.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Malaysia Adventure
« on: July 13, 2018, 02:35:27 PM »
Hey Future,

If youíve never had the Musang King, I would highly recommend it. Itís the best tasting Durian Iíve ever eaten. They sell for $10 a pound here in the USA but they are frozen although the quality is exceptional. The MK Durian is sweet with a very slight bitterness that is very tasty. I have not purchased a Mornthong after eating the Musang King a few years ago.

As a Malaysian I have never eaten musang King and all the other named can always find good quality unnamed varieties if you know where to look or which tree that produces tasty fruits.besides a large unnamed variety can cost you only about 4 USD per fruit  or less at my hometown
Call me naive, but I was gonna say that the prices Future mentioned in Malaysia sound outrageous. I would hope fruit would be CHEAPER where itís grown versus importing to the other side of the world. Perhaps durianís fame (and a shrinking world) is to blame.
Simon - glad to know itís possible to get affordable durian there. Not that Iíll probably ever have the pleasure of visiting (though one of durianwriterís tours is on my bucket list)

I'm with you, Levar - i like rose flavor/fragrance a lot too.

Dot is excellent in my limited experience but did not detect rose.

I wasn't aware that some mangos possess rose notes so glad to know.

On a side note - i've been following a lot of these discussions lately and I find it interesting that the "hillbilly mango" - pawpaw - has some of the same flavor possibilities, though the breeding is far, far behind that of mango. There are pineapple-flavored varieties, coconut, spicy/cinnamon, etc. So I wonder if rose-flavored genetics are out there :)

Good luck with your trees, Levar.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Malaysia Adventure
« on: July 11, 2018, 12:34:41 PM »
We left Penang last week and yes it was loaded. In Kuching it is out of season.  Serian market was interesting. A pickup outside the market loaded with durian seemed to indicate jackpot. Huge bags filed with rambutan too. Alas, these were leaving the market for other points of sale. Most in he market by volume was unripe durian, sold for cooking. Likely from Indonesia. The few ripe we bought about half. And they were excellent. Premium priced but worth it. Bought several more on the drive back, also some of the best Iíve had.

In Singapore airport now. Mpire 717 opened a second shop 3 days ago. Now in terminal 2 and 3. Has golden Phoenix which was...amazing. Seeet durian. At $25 Singapore better be. This variety has malformed seeds and is nearly alll flesh  a winner.  Shop loaded with durian cakes, pastries etc.

Also, respect to VeganBurg restaurant downtime. Finally a vegan durian ice cream...

DROOOOOOOLLLLLL. wow that would be otherworldly for me. Thanks for the dreams LOL

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Malaysia Adventure
« on: July 11, 2018, 08:11:45 AM »
Durianwriter just published her durian guide to Penang. Check out at
If youíre in Penang you should be swimming in durian to hear her tell it.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Best time to relocate Fig?
« on: July 09, 2018, 03:08:36 PM »
Thanks! I did some more research and saw some references to avoiding fall due to concerns of cold sensitivity over that first winter. I figure itíd probably not matter especially with heavy mulch for protection, but it does seem like early spring before bud break could be safest option.
Not sure if figs actually have active roots over winter or not.
Some things, like pawpaw, go 100% dormant and thus have no advantage with fall planting

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