Interesting. Per the study, iron was not that important for growth. But zinc and manganese were. I give mine loads of zinc and manganese (in addition to iron) via Tiger brand zinc oxide and manganese oxide, which has plenty of sulfur to lower pH as well (you can find it at 7springsfarm.com). It can take many months for symptoms to improve though.

If you do use chelates in a foliar application, you typically need to spray when the leaves are tender, in which state they more readily absorb nutrients. Once the leaves are hardened, application results in a freckled appearance, with random green spots where the leaves absorbed some nutrition.

I recently discovered, though, that they fruit much (MUCH) better with a good supply of (slow-release) nitrogen. I believe nitrogen also aids in uptake of other nutrients. They can be salt sensitive, which is why I give mine slow release N. (Note: the slow release junk at the home improvement shops really only has a tiny fraction of slow release N. Look for something with the majority of N in a slow release form.)

When I had mine in pots, they loved osmocote.

Here's some info from the FSHS archive.

JABOTICABA NUTRITION EXPERIMENT by E. D. ACKERMAN (1978)

Ackerman was president of the Rare Fruit Council Intl. in 1980, this is some of the research the RFCI conducted on jaboticaba. At this point the non profit was still working inside the USDA property at Chapman Field.

"Several years ago the Rare Fruit Council, in cooperation with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Subtropical Horticulture Research Station, established a project to con duct research in various species of exotic subtropical and tropical fruits. One of the experiments undertaken was to determine the difference in effect of 2 fertilizers, supplemented by minor elements, on the growth of the jaboticaba, [Plinia cauliflora] (Myrtaceae).

https://fshs.org/proceedings-o/1978-vol-91/187-189%20(ACKERMAN).pdf

wow that's some serious mislabeling

How does one order? I see a few items I would like.

Where did you get the shatoot from?

Ohh -- OP is referring to the vine on the tree in the 3rd pic.  I don't think I've ever seen monstera climb. It's a ground dweller.

It's sending you a message: "Feed me!" I might switch over to a slow release mix like Har's 0-3-16 plus some sulfur to lower ph and perhaps drenches with iron chelate. Probably going to be deficient in copper and manganese as well.

The vp could be in a better area of soil. Or it could be better at nutrient absoprtion due to cultivar. Or, maybe the chlorotic tree was pruned more? (the leaves hold nutrients). Or maybe the chlorotic tree is older (and has depleted the little bit of soil nutrition was there to begin with). Etc.

Can someone help me with this:
Front of leaves

Back of leaves



A Valencia Pride planted 15ft away looks fine.


Both receive 8-3-9 w/ micros during growing season (although, not as much as they should)

No.

i was wondering if soursop is like cherimoya, where it needs the leaves to drop in order for the flowering buds to come out.

8-2-12 only, but I give it a lot. 8-2-12 is miracle in a bag, but you need to use a good amount of it. The only trees in my orchard that don't get it are mangoes (those get Har's mix).

Quote from: Cookie Monster on January 11, 2019, 04:17:35 PM

Maybe it just wants a particular nutrient profile to be productive? I blast my saps with a lot of nitrogen, which seems to have a big impact on production. I've heard a lot of folks complain about lack of production from haysa, but mine produces a boatload of fruit... actually snapped a branch a couple of months ago.

Quote from: Ulfr on January 11, 2019, 03:51:20 PM

Quote from: mangokothiyan on January 11, 2019, 10:21:55 AM

Does prolific actually live up to its name or is it just a marketing stunt?

I know people here (AUS) aren’t happy with prolifics production. Mike is one of them (I think he cut his down), I’m sure he will chime in if he sees this thread.


Edit: here you go http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16922.msg214735#msg214735

I was about to cut down my Hasya as it had produced just one fruit in 4-5  years since it was planted, but a couple of weeks  ago,  i found four little fruits on the tree. I have since decided to keep the tree. Jeff, do you use 8-3-9 or 8-2-12 for sapodillas? Do you give it foliar sprays as well?

Search for prolific here: https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/sapodilla.html

An old time variety that is reported to bear heavily. Sounds like a winner in my book. I think the newer cultivars might be focused on smoother flesh?

Looks like ZHPP has an active facebook presence finally.

Funny thing is -- I actually prefer the gritty saps to the creamy ones. But no one propagates the gritty ones, so they only come from seedlings.

They're tough plants, and the fruit is quite good as well. One of my favorite fruits to grow here.

Quote from: Fiddler on January 10, 2019, 06:19:06 AM

Damn! I just noticed this!
   I wish you had posted earlier. I missed the boat.
   What's the furthest north on Florida's gulf coast where sapodillas can be successfully grown?
   I'm in South Sarasota County and my attempt failed years ago and I've been afraid to try again. I know these trees do well on Pine Island, but that's its own microclimate.

We were 30F last year and my sapodillas didn't blink. Another forum member from Lakeland was
colder and commented on their resilience. I planted a Morena on the South side of a huge oak and
it barely grew. I dug it up and put it in full sun and it is finally flushing.

Regarding the fruity flavor, that's probably cultivar specific. But the acidity is generally a factor of picking time.

Per mature tree. That's what I give mine every year. Gypsum is roughly 1/4 calcium, so that translates to maybe 30 pounds of calcium. And for max brix, you want somewhere around 10 to 20 pounds of calcium per pound of potassium.

Quote from: Cookie Monster on January 03, 2019, 10:22:26 AM

Lack of firmness is generally an indication of lack of ca. Compost can make ca deficiency worse, which is what I assume may have happened in your case. Try laying down gypsum. You can get it at Helena Chemical for about $12 / 50 pounds. I've been adding 100 - 150 pounds a year to each carambola tree.

100-150 pounds per tree??

That's not necessarily true though. For the folks living in Homestead, there is obviously no need to provide supplemental calcium. However, individuals growing on sand or compost can benefit from supplemental calcium. Also, providing supplemental potassium (regardless of source, be it organic or conventional) can cause ca deficiency.

Quote from: Cookie Monster on January 04, 2019, 02:52:36 PM

Gonna have to agree with Mark in Texas.

To get higher brix, ensure proper level of calcium.

Yes thankfully calcium is one thing Florida has plenty of, at least at my farm.