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Messages - Guanabanus

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That Monterrey Liqui-Cop should work fine, at the lowest concentration recommended, when on flower spikes.

The Southern Ag Liquid Copper sold here in Home Depot is roughly the same.

Other than the "stone fruit" definition, the rest looks good.  Stone Fruits are a sub-category of the Rose Family: Peaches, Plums, Apricots, Almonds, and per some botanists, Jujubes.

You aren't alone in trying to expand the definition to include any big seed--- I saw an actual product label claiming that Avocados are stone fruits.

I had never tried pruning this time of year.  Sounds hopeful!

Thank you for the article link, Ricshaw.

Copper Soap can be mixed with elemental Sulfur,
Cuprous Oxide ("red copper") can be mixed with elemental Sulfur.  (These are active ingredients, not brand names.) 

Most other Copper compounds become dangerous to the plants if mixed with elemental Sulfur, or with any other seriously acidic mix.

Unfortunately "liquid copper" is used for more than one copper compound, so you need to read the fine print.

FLMikey,  the Calcium-Magnesium-Boron product is probably good.  The Bonide product is labeled for avocados, but not mangos.  The sprayer should work for a year or so, until the trees get bigger.

Thanks for your help Har!  I have some more questions please.

I'll choose Southern AG's Copper Fungicide instead as the label indicates it's for Mango use (

Southern Ag Liquid Copper does not contain Copper Soap.  I do not advocate mixing other Copper compounds with elemental Sulfur.

In this thread, (, you mention wettable Sulfur can be added to the Copper.  I was thinking of using this Hi Yield wettable sulfur (  Would I mix the up the Copper and Sulfur together, and when the pannicle is 2 inches spray the mixed solution on the whole tree (leaves & pannicle)?  I would continue this process until flowers are present, at which point, I would spray the flowers with the GrowScripts Calcium/Magnesium/Boron spray once and stop with the Copper & Sulfur?  The next phase would be waiting for the little green fruits to set, then I continue spraying the Copper and Sulfur mix monthly until harvest. 

Apologies for the beginner questions - but have never implemented a spraying regimen, and trying maximize the number of mango's from my few trees.  Thanks!!

Hey guys, this mango tree was already in place when I bought my house, it was one of three mango trees.however, this tree has always had issues.  We cut it way back to just its main trunk a while ago and new growth is happening. However the new growth does not look very good. It was getting attacked by aphids so I was spraying it with neem oil. That seemed to take care of that issue. But the leaves are still deformed and are very splotchy. I have sprayed it twice with copper and that didnít seem to help much, if at all. I thought maybe it was a nutritional issue so I gave it some fertilizer a couple months ago and epsom salt. No change so far... on some parts the new growth looks nice but then quickly turns splotchy. In other spots the new growth is all deformed from the start.. what do you guys think it is?

Check with magnification for thrips or other tiny pests, or powdery mildew.

This pic you can see the leaves are normal shaped but are starting to get splotchy.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mangoes In Tropical Ecuador?
« on: December 21, 2018, 08:13:07 AM »
Yes, I grew up in the city of Manaus.  The climate there is not really monsoonal--- the rains are almost year-round.  The dry season tends to be just 2-4 weeks, but can be twice that, in extreme, news-making years.

Many mangoes have been taken there from Florida, which have never flowered, in almost 50 years of growth..  Only Nam Doc Mai, taken from Florida, has fruited.  But half a dozen local types of mango, including 'Rosa', fruit well every year.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mangoes In Tropical Ecuador?
« on: December 18, 2018, 07:06:50 PM »
In equatorial tropics, you first need to find a mango variety that will flower from temperatures in the low 70's or upper 60's F.  When it actually flowers, THEN the next worry is the high humidity encouraging rots on the flowers.

Most mango varieties will never flower where I grew up in the central Amazon, but there I guess it was only about 150 meters elevation.

Do you know what your before-sunrise low temperatures are there in eastern Ecuador?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Annona disease ID?
« on: December 18, 2018, 06:52:55 PM »
Yes, it is a leaf miner.

Try an Azadirachtin-cpntaining product, on the leaves and drenched into the soil.  If there is still a live larva there, the Azadirachtin will prevent the larva from molting.
Won't fix any damage already done.

Was compost or fertilizer put in the planting hole?

Is the root crown buried with soil or mulch?

Excess water, especially during cold weather, as you indicated, can produce those symptoms in the second and third photos, especially if the above problems occurred.

A month after planting is the normal time to fertilize.   Look for fertilizer that has 10% or so of Sulfur, 1 or 2 % of Iron, similar amount of Manganese, 1/2% or better of Zinc.  The micronutrients can be less if chelated or Wolftrax.

If you use more Neem than directed on the label, you will probably kill the leaves.

The large black spot crossing over the midrib and other veins is probably anthracnose.

If you are talking about a 70% hydrophobic neem oil product, as most brands of neem oil are, then it is the cheap by-product left over after the Azadirachtin has been extracted out to be sold separately.  Then this oil has some surfactant added to help it mix with water.

Whole Neem-Oil products, such as Dyna-Gro Plant Shine, or any brand of food-grade neem oil, do contain Azadirachtin in widely varying amounts (i.e., non-standardized).  Hard to mix with cool water.  Does have other useful compounds also.

Drenching the soil, or spraying the leaves with an Azadirachtin-containing product, such as Aza-Sol (OMRI approved), will prevent immature scale and other insect pests from molting--- so no successful reproduction.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Please help me save this M4 mango tree
« on: December 11, 2018, 05:36:42 AM »
With trees in the ground, a very thin application of compost, like less than an inch will usually be ok, when you are wanting to encourage a lot of growth, as the compost tends to have quite a bit of Nitrogen.

Adding a couple of inches of tree-surgeon mulch (fresh, shredded prunings), instead of finished compost, seems to work best, as it it more slow-release.
Natural-materials mulch of leaves and small branches also works great around trees in the ground.

About potting up, you can pot up into a container as big as you like, PROVIDED the soil mix is mostly of NON-ORGANIC materials (i.e., not decomposable, carbon-based materials):  sand, Perlite, charcoal, bio-char, rock dusts, a little clay maybe, and only 5-10% by weight of slow-rotting bark or wood.  Make sure the pot has plenty of holes on the lower side and bottom.  Otherwise, the concerns about turning into a toxic anaerobic water rot, or low-oxygen swampy muck are very real, when you pot up a small-containerized plant into a huge container.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Please help me save this M4 mango tree
« on: December 10, 2018, 09:38:48 PM »
Also avoid compost in mango pots.

FLMikey,  the Calcium-Magnesium-Boron product is probably good.  The Bonide product is labeled for avocados, but not mangos.  The sprayer should work for a year or so, until the trees get bigger.

Mango scale.  If the scale is already dead and dried up, it will just flake off.  If it is still alive (or if it is recently dead and not yet dried up), it will smear, or leave a wet spot.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Gomera Mango Seeds Finally !
« on: December 07, 2018, 09:02:04 AM »
Here in Florida, different persons call different mangos "turpentine".

I got to see someone's experiment: he gathered "turpentines" in over half-a dozen places in southeast peninsular Florida and the Keys, and he followed appropriate procedure and kept the batches separate and labeled.  They were amazingly different.  Some whole batches were worthless, the plants eaten up by Anthracnose, etc.
Others were the healthy, standard-type "Turpentine" that I had been accustomed to working with at Zill's.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Wurtz Avocado from Excalibur is Type AB?
« on: December 05, 2018, 02:54:26 PM »
I hear that any variety of avocado "gets mixed up" in cloudy weather--- "can't tell the time of day"--- and opens flowers of both sexes at the same time.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Yellow spots on mango leaves
« on: December 05, 2018, 02:38:42 PM »
Probably whitefly.

Taking close-up photos of both the top and the bottom of the leaf would be very helpful.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Excalibur Red grafted trees from Excalibur
« on: December 02, 2018, 10:21:11 PM »

The missing bark is probably from an impact injury.

The curling burnt leaves are probably from Powdery Mildew.

The spotted bark....?

The angular black spots with yellow halos on the leaves are probably Mango Bacterial Black Spot.

The majority of the leaves are nutritionally deficient in Manganese and Iron.

Have you had a soil test and mango leaf tissue test (for nutritional status)?

Could you please post close-up pictures, top and botoom, of still-alive but already affected leaves?

Also of the still-alive but sick twigs?

Is there sap oozing anywhere?

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