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Messages - Guanabanus

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Copper Sulfate is quite effective against anthracnose, but only slightly effective against Powdery Mildew.  If you keep your spray mix constantly shaken, you can spray with elemental Sulfur--- do not mix elemental Sulfur with Copper Sulfate, or with most other Copper molecules, as Copper ions become very toxic to plants in highly acidic tank mixes.

Spread more than half of that fertilizer out on the grass outside the ring.  Make sure you use fertilizer containing micronutrients, including Zinc.  Make sure your soil has plenty of Calcium, or add Calcium Sulfate--- it provides also protection against fertilizer-imbalance burns and excess salt build-ups.

Occasionally provide a deep watering--- not just grass root-depth watering--- perhaps just once a month, since the tree already looks reasonably well.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A very good Rollinia
« on: March 19, 2019, 10:05:21 PM »
They usually flower for one or two years before the tree is robust enough to actually fruit.

Even truely dwarf plants must grow.  Trees don't reach a pre-determined height and then stop there--- unless they have started to die.

Dwarf plants simply have a slower growth rate.  This is usually a combination of fewer growth flushes per year, plus much shorter-than-average flush lengths.

Examples:  'Julie', a true dwarf mango, usually grows 4-12 INCHES per year.  'Valencia Pride' mango, super vigorous, grows 3-10 FEET per year.

So we don't ask, "How tall does this variety get?" 

We ask, "How tall does this variety get in 10 years?" [Unpruned.]  'Julie', 6-12 feet;  'VP', maybe 40 feet.

Or, we can ask, "How soon will I need to prune this tree?"  'Julie', 10 years;  'VP', next year.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Sil-Matrix on Mango?
« on: March 17, 2019, 01:17:27 PM »
Effectiveness against powdery mildew is reason enough to have it, but Potassium Silicate products also harden leaf surfaces against temperature extremes, wind and drought, and against chewing or penetration by insects or germinating fungal spores;  silicates also stiffen branches.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A Fascination with Fatty Fruits
« on: March 10, 2019, 07:56:02 PM »
The Pequi', Caryocar brasiliensis, is a bushy small tree in the Cerrado scrublands of central Brazil.  Canned Pequi' meats are available in some ethnic supermarkets in southern Florida.
The Pequia', Caryocar villosum, is a huge hardwood tree in the Amazonian rainforest, where each fruiting tree was a guarded, prized possession of any tribal clan.  Unfortunately, others have valued the trees as lumber.

Both fruits are eaten cooked--- nowadays, usually boiled.  The deep yellow-orange pulp has a powerful, distinctive,  nutty flavor, with lots of orange oil.  It is often boiled in rice, to provide flavor and oil and bright color.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A Fascination with Fatty Fruits
« on: March 10, 2019, 07:42:06 PM »
"Better-Than-Butter-Fruits":  two species:  Poraqueiba paraensis, Yellow Umari' , from the lower Amazon region, State of Para'.  And Poraqueiba sericea, Black Mari', from the central Amazon region, the State of Amazonas.  Both are delicious, eaten out of hand, or scraped and spread on cassava flatbread or on French bread or crackers.  The skin is soft and edible, and the 1/4-inch or less of yellow pulp is creamy and very oily.  The underpulp is usually not eaten, but it is edible--- chewy and somewhat fibrous, and a little bitter.  Below that is the very hard seedcoat.

Could a metal-handled tool, on a hot day, been leaned against the tree?

I guess one could measure the powder, per a 0.2% concentration of the future spray mix, but place it initially in a small amount of warm water for a few hours, perhaps with blackstrap molasses to work on.  Blackstrap is also a traditional micronutrient source.

Very helpful, and easy.

Wow!  And that stretched "radiation symbol" on the back should be easy to remember!

The paper mentioned using different, very specific concentrations of active bread yeast.

If one were simply weighing, or volume measuring, powdered yeast, one could easily figure concentration;  however, I am not at all sure how I would go about getting yeast to be actively growing and then measure concentration.  Any ideas?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Annona pruning concepts
« on: March 06, 2019, 01:18:47 PM »
Nice work, Josh!

BTW, 'Lisa' = '48--26'.

How is the yeast extract prepared?

That interesting paper didn't say whether the algae extract was from marine species (such as Kelp, or other), or from fresh-water algae.

And plenty of rain or irrigation.

One hopes that they have not run afoul of Brazil's Anti-"Bio-Piracy" Laws (of year 2001).

I hadn't heard of a predatory stinkbug!
Did you get another picture of the back of the predator?  From that angle it looks like a beetle.

I assume that Peters mix would work, if used at a very low rate when spraying on open blooms.  Try it just on a branch or two, and watch it for 10 days--- if no harm is visible, then spray the rest.  I suspect that the amount of Iron is rather higher than needed, when compared to the other ingredients.

Most Copper products (except cuprous oxide  or copper octanoate) become excessively toxic if mixed with very acidic products, such as elemental Sulfur or phosphoric acid.

I haven't heard of injecting plant trunks with phosphoric acid, which is quite different from phosphorous acid.  Phosphorous acid products can be sprayed on trunks with a penetrant adjuvant.

Internal staining like that is usually serious.  Consider mailing an infected-but-still-alive branch to a lab that diagnoses plant diseases.  Ask the lab how to package it.

Meanwhile, treat with systemic fungicides and bactericies.  I don't know which products might be available in your country.

Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate (active ingredient, not product name), or any phosphite or phosphonate, may help.  Usually one does not mix the two (Copper and phos*).

Alliette or Flanker are conventional, systemic products that would probably help a lot.  Don't eat fruit for at least a year afterwards.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango graft blooming!
« on: February 18, 2019, 07:51:47 AM »
The graft union and branch will normally grow, along with the fruit.  If you only have one surviving graft, you will probably want to remove the fruit to be surer of getting plenty of vegetative growth.  But if you have several grafts, even if they are only a couple of months on the big-enough tree, then you do have the option of allowing fruit to remain.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango graft blooming!
« on: February 17, 2019, 11:54:18 AM »
As the grafts are top-worked onto a large tree, it is actually optional to go ahead and let them fruit.  The graft and flower stem will thicken up as needed while the fruit develops.  Then you can get the regular post-harvest vegetative growth.

Yes, a chelated metals spray--- iron, manganese, zinc, and a little copper, and also boron and magnesium---is excellent to help improve fruit set and fruit set retention, especially if there is also applied a separate spray of chelated calcium and boron.  Well nourished plants are also more resistant to various issues in general.

Nutritional spray containing chelated Calcium and Boron, may help the remaining flowers to set fruit.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Annona depressa
« on: February 16, 2019, 07:43:00 PM »
I admit I have never knowingly seen a Mosannona or Malmea species.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Annona depressa
« on: February 16, 2019, 01:37:08 PM »
I doubt that the first picture is related to Annonas.

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