Also Fukushus are ripening.  The largest ones are golf ball sized.  I prefer them smaller, easier to eat whole.  This one only had three seeds, not bad, I've seen from zero to 6+.

Taste is very good, not quite as flavorful as last two years' crops.   This one is somewhat yellow still, I'll let them ripen longer.




"excalibur" "red limes" have been orange for some time, but they get darker orange and sweeter the longer they hang on the tree.  Once dark orange like this they are edible out of hand.  Not as good as fukushu/meiwa/marumi, but much better than indio/centennial.  They are about halfway in between.

Good idea, I will try this next time

I'm running a rooting experiment right now that I started a few weeks ago... I'll post results in a month or two.

I took 72 total cuttings of six different citrus varieties, one third got no hormone, one third got years-old hormone from an open container, one third got brand new hormone from a sealed container.

The cuttings are in a seedling propagation tray on a heat mat, inside a plastic enclosure in a north-facing (no direct sunlight) window.  One issue so far is finding the right balance between no ventilation where mold grows, and too much ventilation where leaves dry out.  My last attempt at rooting guava cuttings with ventilation they all quickly dried out and died, even with almost all leaves removed.  So far my enclosed citrus cuttings are starting to get moldy so I have been airing them out at night.

I had prepped the cuttings exactly as Bomand describes above.

Not if its burning cleanly.  Ive been inside my greenhouse countless times after unvented heaters ran all night and no issues.  I got a carbon monoxide alarm and its never shown significant levels, also got a co2 sensor and highest ive seen is 6k ppm which is well under OSHAs unsafe workplace level of 10k

Also you could insulate the north wall instead of glazing it.  Or get some foam board insulation and put them in place only in winter

That one contains imidacloprid whichs works wonders for me.  In florida your citrus are likely to contract HLB disease from the psyllids, though, no matter what pesticide you use

If you are using a single 115v line via extension cord you dont have a lot of options.  Any generic 1500watt space heater will consume an entire 15 or 20amp circuit.  Make sure to use a heavy gauge extension cord or at best you will lose a lot of heat through the extension cord or at worst cause a fire hazard.  If you can run a 230v line on a double pole breaker you can get a lot more heat from the same wire gauge.  Not sure how feasible that is for you.

I highly recommend getting a “mr heater” that attaches to a 20lb grill propane tank in case you have a power failure or the electric heater cant keep up.  These put out a *lot* of heat compared to the electric space heater and can run for 24hrs even on low if you start with a full tank.  I keep four of them as emergency backup heat.  They are really cheap to purchase

For fruiting vines, passionfruit is an idea one, maybe kiwi or grape.  For flowering again passtionfruit or... jasmine?

Brian, you should check out this video.  At the end he zooms out on the rows of DF. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sxIKjdhJpE&feature=youtu.be

Hah, that is an impressive thorn farm

How much light intensity is actually required for these plants, though?  UV index where I am at is just 6 midsummer and 1-2 midwinter.  Everything is growing great, maybe simply less in winter.  Ivve always assumed the important part of subtropical/tropical description for plants is cold tolerance

Kumquats do great in pots.  If you keep it healthy it will produce a ton of fruit.  Good luck

So far everything I am growing in my greenhouse at 40N latitude is doing fine.  My citrus and guavas got huge, mango tripled in size.  This year I got a ton of “true tropicals”, ill see how they do over winter.  I dont give any supplemental lighting, just heat