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Messages - NateTheGreat

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Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Asiminaholics Anonymous
« on: September 11, 2019, 10:56:52 PM »
My first pawpaw flower of the (next) season has opened. Another of my pawpaws had a fall flower last year, and most of them have buds now, which may open soon. My loquat is also about to flower, oddly.

I went to the Fullerton Arboretum yesterday, and saw their Hexachlamys edulis. I talked to one of the staff there, and she said she didn't think she'd seen it fruit. There were a few fruit on it, and one was ripe with some ants on one side, but I didn't pressure her to pick it for us to try, since there were lots of signs warning it was illegal to eat the fruit in the Arboretum. The newest leaves are a bit pubescent/fuzzy, but by the time they are dark green they have lost almost all their pubescence. The leaves are also much narrower than huertasurbanas's, and the fruits more elongated, lemon-shaped than the other pictures here. Probably a garlic one. Pictures below. The first is the biggest of my seedlings of huertasurbanas's sweet one. Even the oldest leaves (not all that old, but dark green already) are still pubescent.

I had a package get sent back as undeliverable with incomplete/incorrect address by USPS a few months back. I called and went through their menu options to request a redelivery, and to my surprise they did deliver it a few days later. Also to my surprise, the address was written perfectly on it. I think what happened is it got sent by USPS to the wrong regional sorting facility, and they didn't want to bother with sorting it out so they just marked the address as incomplete. It could be something similar, that a USPS employee incorrectly marked it as undeliverable.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: My Blueberry Growing Tips..
« on: June 13, 2019, 12:43:37 PM »
I think blueberries can take full sun. They grown them in full sun in Bakersfield commercially. Mine get full sun in the winter/spring and morning shade in the summer, with full sun in the afternoon. I have them in big patio pots to help with moisture retention and acidity. The medium has lots of peat moss, some sand and chicken manure, and IIRC some of the potting soil that was in from whatever was in here before. A 3" layer of mulch is very helpful in keeping them moist. I have to water them every two days currently, though it was down to every day in the 100F+ heat wave. I think these were in 2 gallon containers when I planted them last spring. I give them about 1 cup of sulfur when they show more than a little red on new growth, or when they have chlorosis of new growth. I think in total I've given them sulfur three times. I just water them with untreated domestic water. We've been picking a lot of berries for the past month, so what you see isn't a full crop. I think the small one (first pic) is Sunshine Blue, which seems like it has some other vaccinium species in it to me. It's got smaller, darker leaves, more like huckleberry, and the berries have a creaminess to them that reminds me of blueberry yogurt. Next is Jubilee, which goes mostly deciduous and is a later season variety. It hasn't borne many fruits for me, but is getting pretty tall. Then the other two are Sharpblue I think (nametags are burried somewhere in the mulch), which are the best producers.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Yellowing stem on blueberries.....
« on: June 13, 2019, 12:11:46 PM »
I think it's drought stress. Mine have been showing similar symptoms if I go two days between watering in this heat.

Good Morning Marcos

Do you have any more info on Jaboticaba de Posadas? Mine are doing very well. You said it's similar to sabara, but are there differences?

Have you considered that the sweet ubajay could be Eugenia lutescens or lutescens x pyriformis? It doesn't resemble the pictures of E. myrcianthes to me. Do you know how big these get? E. myrcianthes gets 8-15m from what I've read online.

After 5 1/2 months, I have had very good germination on jaboticaba de posadas, black cotrg, orange cotrg, sweet ubajay, pitanga, and psidium myrtoides. 1 of 5 plinia rivularis sprouted, 1 of 5 jaboticaba de campo ramon sprouted then quickly died, and 0 of 5 Campomanesia xanthocarpa, hybrid araca, and psidium guineese. I used a mix of peat moss, sand, a bit of loam, and a bit of chicken manure. I planted the ubajay, pitanga, and cortg in the ground this spring (I think their root system will be much stronger if they survive), and they took 38 C in full sun for three days this week.

Jaboticaba de Posadas:

Psidium myrtioides:

Orange Eugenia aff. involucrata (I really like the orange-tinted new growth:

Obera black pitanga:

Sweet ubajay:

Plinia rivularis:

The dynamics of drainage are very different in the ground vs in a pot. Potting soil has to have much better drainage than what's in the ground, since water doesn't drain as readily from pots into the air (through the holes in the bottom of the pot) as from moist soil to drier soil beneath. Blueberries like to be very moist though.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: A very Strange Mutant Dragonfruit.
« on: May 25, 2019, 01:01:36 AM »
Looks like a chimera.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Plinia rivularis
« on: May 24, 2019, 12:15:51 PM »
I think I've been keeping mine a bit too moist, from the brown edges that developed on the first pair of leaves.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Geodesic dome greenhouse build
« on: May 20, 2019, 09:50:39 PM »
I'm sorry, I didn't read your last reply as well as I should have. The thing is, if you have two sheets of polycarbonate, two different temperatures, with air between them, the air will convect heat. Natural convection. If you had something like down filling that gap, it would keep the air from flowing. There would be a steady gradient of warmer to cooler air. Once the down is removed, the warm and cool air can mix, and transfer heat through convection. The conduction through down is minimal.

This may be helpful

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Geodesic dome greenhouse build
« on: May 20, 2019, 09:29:10 PM »
That's true, but air convects heat.

"Gases possess poor thermal conduction properties compared to liquids and solids, and thus makes a good insulation material if they can be trapped. In order to further augment the effectiveness of a gas (such as air) it may be disrupted into small cells which cannot effectively transfer heat by natural convection. Convection involves a larger bulk flow of gas driven by buoyancy and temperature differences, and it does not work well in small cells where there is little density difference to drive it, and the high surface-to-volume ratios of the small cells retards gas flow in them by means of viscous drag.

In order to accomplish small gas cell formation in man-made thermal insulation, glass and polymer materials can be used to trap air in a foam-like structure. This principle is used industrially in building and piping insulation such as (glass wool), cellulose, rock wool, polystyrene foam (styrofoam), urethane foam, vermiculite, perlite, and cork. Trapping air is also the principle in all highly insulating clothing materials such as wool, down feathers and fleece.

The air-trapping property is also the insulation principle employed by homeothermic animals to stay warm, for example down feathers, and insulating hair such as natural sheep's wool. In both cases the primary insulating material is air, and the polymer used for trapping the air is natural keratin protein. "

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Geodesic dome greenhouse build
« on: May 20, 2019, 08:49:13 PM »
Air is the best known thermal insulator and its scientifical prooved.

Then why do they use insulation instead of just air in walls? I'm not trying to get into an argument, it's a cool project, but these things you're saying just aren't true. The lack of condensation on the beer in the fridge is because it's the same temperature as the surrounding air. The polycarbonate will be some temperature between the outside air and the inside air (if it's -20 out and it's 30 in, the polycarbonate probably is somewhere around 0), so it will be colder than the inside air. Just like the beer bottle once it's out of the fridge. When the warmer air hits a colder surface, condensation.

"As the seed viability is short, plant the cleaned seed immediately just below the soil line When shipping cleaned seed for others to plant, package in a small plastic bag and enclose a slightly moistened toweling. Seed that are allowed to dry can be shipped for at least two weeks but rapidly loose their viability. "

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Geodesic dome greenhouse build
« on: May 20, 2019, 07:15:25 PM »
Air its the best thermal sealant so the inside walls of the greenhouse will not get cold and thats why no condensation will ocur.

Air is a terrible insulator. Look at R-values of expensive double or tripple-wall glass, compared to wall materials. I have a double-wall window in my room, and it gets condensation if I have plants in my room (due to the added indoor humidity). Since the glazing will be of plastic rather than glass, you may have less condensation. When I've slept in tents outdoors though, the (plastic) tents do have condensation on the inside in the morning.

The wood sections will almost surely have a much higher R-value than the double-walled polycarbonate.

Looks great. I'm envious.


From my understanding of these concepts, the cold-hardy avocado after an arctic blast would be an example of Phenotypic plasticity. If you were able to breed affected plants and cause the change in genetics to become stable, without requiring the environmental stress to activate, I believe that would be Genetic assimilation, but it might be more accurately described as Baldwin effect.

Just because it resembles Lamarckism doesn't mean it is.

See also:

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Lemon Guava Leaf Spot
« on: May 16, 2019, 11:30:23 PM »
Oops, fixed.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Lemon Guava Leaf Spot
« on: May 09, 2019, 08:01:57 PM »
My lemon guava's leaves aren't lasting nearly as long as I think they should. As shown in the pictures, starting from the lowest leaves of this spring's growth (8 weeks since these leaves broke bud), the leaves are developing brown spots near the leaf tip, moving gradually down the edge, with the entire leaf eventually turning red. I thought this was normal initially, but I'm starting to worry that I'm going to run out of leaves by the middle of the summer, and haven't seen anything similar being reported online. One of my Cherries of the Rio Grande has two leaves with brown spots not similar to these, but in general the plant looks healthy, and none of my other plants have shown this symptom yet. I'm in Northern California. It seems like some kind of fungal infection to me, but that might just mean that the plant is being weakened by something else that I need to address, for example low humidity or insufficient water. It isn't currently pushing new growth, so something may be stunting its growth, I'm just not sure what's typical. The tree has been in the ground for a bit over a year.

Aside from the large bananas just one winter.

Good luck. I can tell a lot of time and money went into this. I suspect the tall bananas are a hardier ornamental type.

How many winters have these been through?

I think it's possible to root E. uniflora from cuttings, but generally not done. Mutations like variagation or cresting can revert. If you grow seeds from a black uniflora, what I've read is most are black-fruited but some are red. That's probably what's going on.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Blueberries
« on: April 05, 2019, 07:31:37 PM »
From what I've read used coffee grounds and brown pine needles won't actually acidify the soil. I put chicken manure and sulfur on mine.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jabo pruning advice
« on: March 15, 2019, 05:09:47 PM »
Did you just transplant that tree? Iíve never seen a Jaboticaba thatís dropped all itís leaves like that. Is there any sign of life on it like leaf buds?

My red jabo dropped all its leaves some weeks ago, mostly on the same day, after holding most of them through the winter. I think it started peeling bark for the first time about the same time. Granted it was on a windy day, but it seemed intentional to me. The leaves had taken frost before, and this was as the weather was warming a bit. My black E. uniflora did the same, though it's been dropping leaves more gradually. It's possible both plants are just dying, but I think they're both just semi-deciduous.

E. candolleana has not been hardy for me. Mine died back last winter in -3ļC weather and only pushed tiny new leaves the year after. I think it's finally dead now. I'm not sure if we've even gone below freezing this year, but it's been in the low thirties the last two nights.

Pictures of the source plants?

Edit: Found them:

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