Looks like Selenicereus anthonyanus.

A chain link fence would probably be significantly weaker, and likely more expensive. Plus I suspect dragonfruit fruit better on branches that are hanging below horizontal rather than climbing. And at 9 feet the harvesting might become difficult.

I went to the Fullerton Arboretum yesterday, and saw their Hexachlamys edulis. I talked to one of the staff there, and she said she didn't think she'd seen it fruit. There were a few fruit on it, and one was ripe with some ants on one side, but I didn't pressure her to pick it for us to try, since there were lots of signs warning it was illegal to eat the fruit in the Arboretum. The newest leaves are a bit pubescent/fuzzy, but by the time they are dark green they have lost almost all their pubescence. The leaves are also much narrower than huertasurbanas's, and the fruits more elongated, lemon-shaped than the other pictures here. Probably a garlic one. Pictures below. The first is the biggest of my seedlings of huertasurbanas's sweet one. Even the oldest leaves (not all that old, but dark green already) are still pubescent.

I think blueberries can take full sun. They grown them in full sun in Bakersfield commercially. Mine get full sun in the winter/spring and morning shade in the summer, with full sun in the afternoon. I have them in big patio pots to help with moisture retention and acidity. The medium has lots of peat moss, some sand and chicken manure, and IIRC some of the potting soil that was in from whatever was in here before. A 3" layer of mulch is very helpful in keeping them moist. I have to water them every two days currently, though it was down to every day in the 100F+ heat wave. I think these were in 2 gallon containers when I planted them last spring. I give them about 1 cup of sulfur when they show more than a little red on new growth, or when they have chlorosis of new growth. I think in total I've given them sulfur three times. I just water them with untreated domestic water. We've been picking a lot of berries for the past month, so what you see isn't a full crop. I think the small one (first pic) is Sunshine Blue, which seems like it has some other vaccinium species in it to me. It's got smaller, darker leaves, more like huckleberry, and the berries have a creaminess to them that reminds me of blueberry yogurt. Next is Jubilee, which goes mostly deciduous and is a later season variety. It hasn't borne many fruits for me, but is getting pretty tall. Then the other two are Sharpblue I think (nametags are burried somewhere in the mulch), which are the best producers.

Good Morning Marcos

Do you have any more info on Jaboticaba de Posadas? Mine are doing very well. You said it's similar to sabara, but are there differences?

Have you considered that the sweet ubajay could be Eugenia lutescens or lutescens x pyriformis? It doesn't resemble the pictures of E. myrcianthes to me. Do you know how big these get? E. myrcianthes gets 8-15m from what I've read online.

After 5 1/2 months, I have had very good germination on jaboticaba de posadas, black cotrg, orange cotrg, sweet ubajay, pitanga, and psidium myrtoides. 1 of 5 plinia rivularis sprouted, 1 of 5 jaboticaba de campo ramon sprouted then quickly died, and 0 of 5 Campomanesia xanthocarpa, hybrid araca, and psidium guineese. I used a mix of peat moss, sand, a bit of loam, and a bit of chicken manure. I planted the ubajay, pitanga, and cortg in the ground this spring (I think their root system will be much stronger if they survive), and they took 38 C in full sun for three days this week.

Jaboticaba de Posadas:


Psidium myrtioides:


Orange Eugenia aff. involucrata (I really like the orange-tinted new growth:


Obera black pitanga:


Sweet ubajay:


Plinia rivularis:

Looks like a chimera.

I'm sorry, I didn't read your last reply as well as I should have. The thing is, if you have two sheets of polycarbonate, two different temperatures, with air between them, the air will convect heat. Natural convection. If you had something like down filling that gap, it would keep the air from flowing. There would be a steady gradient of warmer to cooler air. Once the down is removed, the warm and cool air can mix, and transfer heat through convection. The conduction through down is minimal.

This may be helpful https://www.commercialwindows.org/ufactor.php

Air is the best known thermal insulator and its scientifical prooved.

Then why do they use insulation instead of just air in walls? I'm not trying to get into an argument, it's a cool project, but these things you're saying just aren't true. The lack of condensation on the beer in the fridge is because it's the same temperature as the surrounding air. The polycarbonate will be some temperature between the outside air and the inside air (if it's -20 out and it's 30 in, the polycarbonate probably is somewhere around 0), so it will be colder than the inside air. Just like the beer bottle once it's out of the fridge. When the warmer air hits a colder surface, condensation.

Air its the best thermal sealant so the inside walls of the greenhouse will not get cold and thats why no condensation will ocur.

Air is a terrible insulator. Look at R-values of expensive double or tripple-wall glass, compared to wall materials. I have a double-wall window in my room, and it gets condensation if I have plants in my room (due to the added indoor humidity). Since the glazing will be of plastic rather than glass, you may have less condensation. When I've slept in tents outdoors though, the (plastic) tents do have condensation on the inside in the morning.

The wood sections will almost surely have a much higher R-value than the double-walled polycarbonate.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phenotypic_plasticity
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baldwin_effect
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetic_assimilation

From my understanding of these concepts, the cold-hardy avocado after an arctic blast would be an example of Phenotypic plasticity. If you were able to breed affected plants and cause the change in genetics to become stable, without requiring the environmental stress to activate, I believe that would be Genetic assimilation, but it might be more accurately described as Baldwin effect.

Just because it resembles Lamarckism doesn't mean it is.

See also:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maternal_effect
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytoplasma

My lemon guava's leaves aren't lasting nearly as long as I think they should. As shown in the pictures, starting from the lowest leaves of this spring's growth (8 weeks since these leaves broke bud), the leaves are developing brown spots near the leaf tip, moving gradually down the edge, with the entire leaf eventually turning red. I thought this was normal initially, but I'm starting to worry that I'm going to run out of leaves by the middle of the summer, and haven't seen anything similar being reported online. One of my Cherries of the Rio Grande has two leaves with brown spots not similar to these, but in general the plant looks healthy, and none of my other plants have shown this symptom yet. I'm in Northern California. It seems like some kind of fungal infection to me, but that might just mean that the plant is being weakened by something else that I need to address, for example low humidity or insufficient water. It isn't currently pushing new growth, so something may be stunting its growth, I'm just not sure what's typical. The tree has been in the ground for a bit over a year.

How many winters have these been through?

From what I've read used coffee grounds and brown pine needles won't actually acidify the soil. I put chicken manure and sulfur on mine.