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Messages - Millet

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 162
1
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Changsha mandarin opinions
« on: January 16, 2021, 03:12:35 PM »
Jim VH, thank your for a most informational post.  Exceedingly interesting.   Looking forward to your future experimentation with the fruit.

2
The reason Urea is used to supply nitrogen via foliar spays, is because the time for 50% leaf absorption of the chemical is only 1/2 - 2 hours.  Many chemicals take days or weeks.  The best time to apply foliar fertilizers is early morning, when the plant's stomates are open.
If temperatures are projected to reach approximately 85-F or higher during the day, applications should be made just after daybreak or after the temperature drops in the evening and the relative humidity increases.  Winter applications should be made at midday, when temperatures are suitable warm.  Avoid spraying to runoff.  Excessive liquid per tree causes pooling of the fertilizer at the tip of the leaf, which can result in tip burn.  Nutrient uptake is best when the application solution is at a pH from 5.5 to 6.6 .  Last note: For most cation nutrients (magnesium, potassium, zinc manganese and iron), application as a sulfate salt is equally effective as chelated products and less expensive.

3
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Hybrids in zone 7a after a low of 12f (-11c)
« on: January 14, 2021, 11:04:12 PM »
Poncirus is deciduous by nature.  My FD loses its leaves during the winter even growing in a warm greenhouse.  Therefore, deciduousness can be effected just by shorter day length.

5
Winter prebloom foliar spray application of low Biuret urea is known to greatly increase flower number, thus greater crop yield.  Proper timing is important to achieve the desired outcome.  Winter prebloom sprays are designed to increase flower number and fruit yield without reducing fruit size. Winter prebloom foliar sprays with low biuret urea (46-0-0 <0.5% biuret) is applied at the rate of .44-lbs. (200-grams) in 2 gallon of water plus one teaspoon of a good surfactant per gallon.. For large area sprays (acres) 50-lbs. per 225 gallons water. NOTE: a second low biuret urea foliar spray should also be done after early fruit drop and June drop periods to insure an  increase in fruit size.  In most areas  this would be around July 1 to July

6
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: new growth pointed down
« on: January 12, 2021, 09:33:22 PM »
All branches turn down sooner or later.

7
Citrus General Discussion / Re: issue with Citrus forum?
« on: January 12, 2021, 06:23:37 PM »
A few forum members have messaged me regarding their posts and messages from the 9th being missing.

I was told that was caused by GoDaddy moving our hosting. The move took about a day, so everything that was posted after the move started was not transferred when the move was completed.

I don't think there was a way around that issue.

I just wanted to let everyone know about the issue so no one would think that we intentionally deleted their posts and messages from that day.

8
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Trifoliate graft incompatibilities?
« on: January 12, 2021, 11:58:32 AM »
Many of my trees are grafted upon Flying Dragon (FD).  The oldest one is a 25 year old Cara Cara.  Presently the FD root stock is approximately 1.5 inches wider than the scion all the way around, The tree is now 11-feet tall and 12-feet around, healthy and has been from the original planting.   I have always been a big FD root stock fan.  FD has a long history of producing excellent tasting full size fruit.

9
Daintree are you saying that your tree has not had any leaves for a year?

10
Some members might not know the reasons to apply the first spray , called the winter spray, of low biuret urea.  This first spray is designed to increase flower number and yield of commercially valuable sized fruit WITHOUT reducing fruit size  Later applications are better than those that are too early.  This is because once this opportunity to increase flower number has passed, late applications of low biuret urea will still increase the retention of abscising reproductive organs. Citrus Production Manual

11
Seanny, you can still spray even though your tree still has some hanging fruit.

12
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Changsha mandarin opinions
« on: January 11, 2021, 11:24:37 AM »
I think it was lost along with other posts by a hack on this site.

13
For the first spray of low biuret urea (called the winter spray) the most effective application time in California is from December 15 to February 15 in most years, NOTE: this window was extrapolated from research conducted in southern California. (Citrus Production Manual)

14
Vlad, that is why the tree is sprayed 2 months BEFORE expected bloom date (before the new flush of leaves)

15
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Dried up suddenly
« on: January 07, 2021, 11:46:35 AM »
The cause of this quick decline has to be in the roots.  I would slip the tree from the container and examine the root system.

16
The leaf deficiency symptom shown is an iron deficiency (leaves with green veins on otherwise yellow leaf)  An iron deficiency in citrus can be caused by either a lack of iron in the plant, or by high PH rather then a shortage of nutrient.

17
edweather, concerning the time to apply the 1st urea spry to increase flowering is indeed approximately 2 months BEFORE the expecte3d bloom date.  As I wrote above.   

18
1.5 to 2 months before expected bloom date is the time to apply the first application of low biuret urea. 

Poncirusguy, as your tree is growing in a protected area, (an artificial 12 month summer), you can fertilize any time.

19
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus IBERO
« on: January 03, 2021, 03:57:15 PM »
It certainly has the albeto of a pummelo, rather than a lemon.

20
Yes it is OK to fertilize while fruit is still on the tree. Fertilizing can be done with fruit or no fruit on the tree.  However, in your location, I would hold off on fertilizing until Feb. 1st.  It is important to understand that warm weather temperatures, not irrigation of fertilization, play the  MAJOR role in stimulating untimely winter flushes of large mature trees. However, when unseasonably warm temperatures occur, young tees may flush more easily than larger, mature trees, especially trees planted the previous year. If such young trees flush  during winter months, fertilization may simulate additional tender growth, making trees even more susceptible.  Consider the degree of flush, tree size, time of year and geographic location, when making this decision.(Florida dooryard citrus guide).

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Sugar Belle Orangs
« on: January 02, 2021, 10:14:05 PM »
SoCal2Warm, your right about Page, in that is a good tasting fruit.  Page's main problem is that it is so small.  It does make a great glass of orange juice, but you have to juice a ton of fruit..

22
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus australis as rootstock
« on: January 01, 2021, 03:23:55 PM »
Citrange and Pager, thanks for both of your great articles.  Much appreciated.

23
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Bomand
« on: December 31, 2020, 02:26:12 PM »
Nothing.  We called his house several times and got a recording of a woman's voice, but she never called us back

24
The deficiency is a nitrogen deficiency..  The symptoms for a nitrogen deficiency in citrus are:  Totally yellow leaves with no variation of color, or yellow/orange veins with some green to the sides.  Note: 1 inch of irrigation either from rain or hose can leach nitrogen 1 to 2 feet down in sandy soil.  A combination of low nitrogen and cool weather could also be involved.

25
Citrus General Discussion / Re: How to control thrips
« on: December 31, 2020, 11:08:58 AM »
Horticultural oil sprays.

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