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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Yellow vs White Pineapples ??
« on: October 07, 2020, 08:23:38 PM »
Thanks PJ.



2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Yellow vs White Pineapples ??
« on: October 05, 2020, 10:31:39 PM »
Living in a jungle prone area, growing pineapples has it's problems.
I've planted a few of them around the yard every year until 2 years ago.
Then, I cleared and tilled a 6' x 35' Strip and planted a large number of them.
Then, I watched them as the ferns, weeds and everything else overgrew them.

We've just eaten a few homegrowed.
I want more.
So, I'm clearing the weeds away from the big patch now.
I'll put down some weed block cloth and replant the PAs through that, consolidating all of them into an enlarged patch.

I have many PA plants, probably 75 to 100.
They are mixed yellow and white types.
I really like the whites and want to increasing their numbers.
I know which some are, but haven't a clue on most of them.

Can yellow and white PAs be told apart from the plants before they fruit?
It'd be nice if I could separate them before replanting them, not having to replant them again later.

3
As a recent transplant from Arizona to Hawaii I miss living in a diverse whole native ecosystem that I imagine PR and CR have in abundance. What I donít miss, and think is worth the extra Hawaiian expense, are all the plants and critters with their spines, thorns, fangs and poison at the ready. Pushing through tall grass here without fear is surreal.

Sounds like you've never lived in the Puna rain forest jungle.
I've been bit by a 6" centipede while working in the yard, very painful and a few weeks to fully recover.
Agreed, not many more things to worry about around here, but I now always use caution when moving through any vegetation and never walk barefoot when outside.

4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Selecting papaya for dwarfism?
« on: September 21, 2020, 05:27:17 PM »
I was q bit sharp in my 1st post here.
The old lady and I had just had a few words, and I was primed.

But, that makes no difference.
My experiences still tell me that 180 in./yr of rainfall is way too much, except possibly in a monsoonal climate where there are still many months of sunny low rainfall periods that correspond with the growing ripening period.
I still stand by that view.

5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Selecting papaya for dwarfism?
« on: September 20, 2020, 03:28:18 AM »
I have serious doubts about your statement " I know papaya prefer 180 inches a year ...
".
We live in an area classified as a 150 to 160 inches a year of rainfall, also rated as USDA 12a-12b.
Our local rainfall is probably even higher.
We're on the windward side of the island at 750' at the top of a pali where the clouds make a quick steep rise.
Papayas are grown locally commercially in large orchard settings, but at lower elevations, closer to sea level where it is warmer and drier.
I see pickups with their beds filled with yellow spotted green papayas driving to the markets and other places around the island.
Temperature may be a factor, but most likely because our area is too wet for them.
Wet climate also means less sun because of cloud cover.

Nobody grows papaya in our area.
When they try, they give up.
I've seen 10' and up trees ripped out of yards around here because they were a waste of time and space.
Everybody tries to grow some type of tropical fruit in their yard around here.
I've got various bananas, various tangerines, oranges, limes, ledmons, longans, mulberry, pineapples - yellow and white, various avos,  and jaboticabas. There might be more that don't come to mind right now, but no papayas anymore.   

 

6
Never been to PR.
But, Hawai'i consists of a number of islands, and has various micro climates ranging from rain forests to deserts, all  in a sub tropical climate., disregarding the snowy mountain tops. 
I think PR would show much less versatility for growing.

7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Selecting papaya for dwarfism?
« on: September 20, 2020, 02:09:44 AM »
UHH Manoa has developed several seed types that are supposed to be adapted to tropical/sub tropical climates.
Some of which are Papayas.
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/seed/
I did buy several seedlings at a local orchid show that were dwarf in size.
They began fruiting in less than 18 months at less than 6 feet in height.
The problem is that our climate in this region is too wet. Papayas prefer a dryer climate.
The fruit were not good tasting and developed fungal lesions.
I had the same problem with full sized trees planted from seeds before trying the dwarfs.



8
Thanks, Your responses have firmed up my thinking about the trees.

I have begun cutting all fruit from the trees.
They have been getting too tall to pick the higher fruit.
So, I will begin pruning to shorten the trees as soon as I've removed all the fruit.

To me, ripening is the fruit softening enough to be edible.
The Sharwil and the Ota are winter ripening.

The Lamb is a summer ripener.
It ripens in its second season.
The first season is too soon after blooming for normal size and ripening.
The tree normally will carry 2 generations of fruit.

The Sharwil had done nicely, delicious fruit up to 1-1/2# in size.
The Lamb's 1st fruit ripened in the second summer and was quite good.
The Ota while not prodigious, still had very good fruit.

All seemed to do well last season, the first after the eruption.
They all ripened early, though.
The Sharwil and Ota ripened in the summer, not waiting until winter with very few fruit.
Was caught by surprise, didn't get to try any of it.

The Lamb Hass ripened late in it's first summer with more fruit than the others.
They were small, but still tasted OK.

A few weeks ago, the Sharwil and Lamb began loosing a lot of leaves.
There was talk about a Lace Bug invasion on the island.
I found signs of sucking damage on the leaves.
So, I drenched the ground under the trees out past the dripline with a Neem Oil solution.
The Sharwill responded nicely and seemed to recover.
The Lamb has continued to decline.
The Ota still looked pretty good.

The Sharwil began dropping almost ripe fruit 2-3 weeks ago.
Fruit on the tree began to be ready to pick.
The young fruit have a shiny skin surface.
As they near ripening, the skin turns to more of a matt finish.

The Ota dropped its first fruit last night.
It was not watery, but fairly dry and somewhat tasteless, no oil either.
The Ota fruit begins to take on a yellowish color when it starts to ripen.
Some on the tree are showing signs of yellow areas developing.
It has begun to loose more leaves.
I'll try drenching its roots again soon.

I'm not waiting for the Lamb's fruit to begin turning purple/black.
I've begun to remove all the fruit.
It has lost almost all it's leaves, nothing left to grow fruit with, only a few growing ends left.
it will be severely pruned back soon.

EDIT:
The eruption evolved sulphur gasses, mostly sulpher dioxide.
This seems to have acidified our soil.
We have a hibiscus that was here when we bought.
It was doing very poorly.
After the eruption was over it came to life and began growing and blooming.
Apparently, it likes the acidic soil made by the gasses.
I've been adding dolomite to the ground under the avos recently to counteract this.
 


9
I have 3 types of avocados in our back yard, Sharwil, Lamb Hass, and Ota.
They are young and have been bearing for 3 to 4 years now.
We had a volcanic eruption  that lasted about 3 months in 2018.
It was about a mile away.
we had volcanic gasses throughout that period with occasional very heavy concentrations.

All 3 are having similar but different problems right now.
I am only addressing the Sharwil right now.

In their first 2 years, they ripened in the winter, as they should have.
They were large and very tasty, but not many being young.

Last year the Sharwil's did very poorly, very few fruit and small in size.
They dropped early and rats got to them before I could.
Didn't get too taste them.
This year they look to be recovering, ... many more, and much larger fruit.
But, they are still ripening early, summer/fall opposed to expected winter.
Have been gathering newly fallen and cutting ready fruit from the tree.

They are watery.
Never has this problem with them before.
The only reason I can think of is the early ripening.

Other possibilities or experiences?

10
Citrus General Discussion / Tqangerines have little flavor
« on: November 19, 2018, 03:21:48 PM »
We have a tangerine tree that was planted by the previous owner.
I'm guessing that it is either a Dancy or Fremont, and assume it is a grafted tree.
EDIT:  Fairchild not Fremont

It began producing fruit 2 or 3 years ago.
This year it has begun to take off, had over a dozen fruit on it.
It is producing large 3-1/2 to 4" dia fruit that are completely seedless.
I do not pick them until the skin is loose from the sections.
They are juicy but have very little little flavor and are not sour or tart.
The lack of flavor has been consistent through the few years it has been producing fruit.

What could be the cause of the lack of flavor for the fruit from this tree?





11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Ota Avocado
« on: September 26, 2018, 09:28:49 PM »
Of the 3 types of hibiscus we have, only one, the Chinese Red, is susceptible to the mites.
It became infested last year.
I pruned it back severely last winter.
It is now rebounding back nicely with no signs of the mites.

Another potential good effect is that our tangerines are not showing as much canker on their fruit as they have in prior years.

 

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Ota Avocado
« on: September 26, 2018, 02:15:03 PM »
@fruitlovers
A few years ago, I was planning on putting in a couple of apiaries because I rarely ever saw any honeybees around here.
Our citrus and avos put out a lot of flowers, but set very little fruit.
Then, apparently someone in the area began keeping some, as last season we had plenty of bees making the rounds here.
The citrus produced quite a bit of fruit last season.
The avos held their first fruit to maturity.

Since the eruption I'm seeing very few bees around here again.
Either the bees were killed off or they were moved out to protect them and have not been returned yet.
I'm again thinking of keeping some bees.
they do look to make a great difference in the setting of fruit.

I'm very happy with my choice of avo trees.
The Sharwil and Lamb-Hass fruit are very good tasting.
The Ota is heavenly.
I want to get as many from that tree as I possibly can.

My concern is for the flowering season coming up in Jan/Feb, or so.
I'd like to get a good setting of fruit for the coming season.

@behlgarden
I'm convinced that the SOx gasses have made a difference.
We have a few hibiscus that did very poorly over a 5 year period.
Since the eruption they have taken off, and are growing new leaf and flowering like they have never done before.
I'm thinking that the soil has been acidified much to their liking.
I'm getting ready to order some ag-sulphur to treat them with. 

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Ota Avocado
« on: September 25, 2018, 04:55:50 PM »
I have 3 types of avo trees, Sharwil, Lamb-Hass and Ota.
The Sharwil and the Ota have type B flowers.
The Lamb-Hass has Type A.
All three bore fruit last season for the first time.

The Sharwil and the Lamb-Hass bloom very close together.
Fertilization between them seems to take place readily.

The Ota blooms about a month or more behind the other two.
It has carried very few fruit the last couple of seasons.

The present season has been complicated by a very close by volcanic eruption.
The trees sustained minor damage from the SOx gasses about the time the fruit were setting, but are now recovering nicely.
The trees dropped a lot of the developing fruit.
The Lamb-Hass still has more fruit than it did last year.

Judging what is going on with them from the present results may not be valid because of effects from the eruption.
But, there seems to be a relationship between the blooming times and a lack of fruit setting on the Ota.

If the offset of the flowering times does affect pollination, what ways can it be dealt with to increase the yield from the Ota?


14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Are these banana pups ready to pull?
« on: April 17, 2018, 06:33:22 PM »
Hello all and thank you again for all of your wisdom. I have two different banana pups I was hoping to remove for a friend and wanted to make sure they are big enough and healthy enough to thrive when removed. What are your thoughts? One is dwarf Namwa the other is some kind of Brazilian red. I apologize the photos aren’t in the right order but only two different pups here just one of the photos of each I put my hand in the photo for size reference. Thanks.


Gotta stick, my nose in here.
Keep in mind that I am a complete novice at dealing with bananas except in a grocery store.

When we bought our property, it had a couple of Dwarf Brazilian [Dwarf Hawaiian Apple] banana plantings.
The plants did not look very healthy.
I assumed they had been in place a long time and their soil was depleted.
So, I prepared a new location and transplanted all of them to it.
The property also had some feral Ice Cream colonies that I transplanted first.
I tore them out because we didn't like them and put the Dwarf Brazilians in to replace them.
I wanted some tall Brazilians [Tall Hawaiian Apples] also, so I bought 10 of them from a local grower, made a second new area and put them in there.

I am a neophyte, but have planted or transplanted many bananas the last few years.
What I have found is that if you remove them too small they have to struggle to become acclimated to their new location, some will die off.
If you let them develop more they will happily start up in their new location.
Many, if not most, will bear fruit their first season on the plant that was transplated.

I prefer the pups to be at least 2' tall and have moved  them up to 6' tall.
2 to 4' seems to be the best size range for a good start in the new location.
So that they do not become water stressed, I remove all leaves that are more developed than being cigar shaped.

In their second echelon of developing plants, both the tall and dwarf are bigger in diameter and height  with bigger  bunches with more fruit than the first planted.

Just my thoughts from my very limited experience.






15
I've had a lot of trouble with my Lamb-Hass this winter-spring.
First of all, the rats attacked them on the tree with a vengeance.
I finally began my rat poisoning regimen again, and now have them again under control, no more rat gnawed fruit dropping to the ground.

I'm still trying to judge the best ripening stage for picking them from the tree.
I think I'm getting close to having it figured out.

I'm amazed at how it is still ripening fruit and starting a new very numerous crop for this time next year.
It looks as if it'll be very prolific.

The first fruit picked, I was being pushed by the rats to get them before they did, some were a bit watery and/or stringy.
I think it was due to picking too early from a very young tree.
I'm now trying to leave them on the tree until they color up more.

We have had a very wet winter.
I think it may be affecting the avo fruit.
I noticed a horizontal crack [about 1/4 of the circumference] in the skin of this avo 2 to 3 days ago, while it was still on the tree.
Today, it was on the ground cracked and split like this.
The night after first seeing the crack we had a torrential rain storm, all night without letup.
A day and a half later, it looked like this.
In digging around, I found one reference to this sometimes happening to Lamb-Hass from young trees, but only one with no explanation for the cause.
I'm thinking the rain may have been an influence.

Any thoughts on what has happened?

The good thing is that no rats have been gnawing on it.



16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself
« on: April 16, 2018, 09:21:22 PM »
After over 30 yeas in Alaska I decided I needed a  change of climate.
My old bones were not dealing well with winters anymore.
So, we moved to Hawai'i, and have been on Big Island for over 4 years now.

There were a few fruit trees on the property when we bought.
I have put in many more new trees:
Bananas, tall and dwarf Brazilians, and ice creams, ended up digging the ice creams out because we didn't like them, love the Apple bananas though.
Tangerines, Honey and Satsuma. Turns out there was already a Honey tangerine here, plus what I think may be a Fremont tangerine.
I'm having problems with the Honeys.
I'll be asking questions about them later.

Put in a Biew Kiew Longan, a Lychee and a Rambutan.
The Rambutan died and the Lychee looks to be failing.
he Longan is doing quite well, hoping for fruit in the next season or two.

There was a Sharwil Avo here already.
I added a  Lamb-Hass and an Ota.
All three produced fruit to maturity last season for, the first time.
The Lamb-Hass is now ripening its first season's fruit with next season's crop having begun to grow already.
I chose the avo cultivars because they should give us tree ripe avos 6 to 9 months out of the year.
All three are having some problems that I'll be asking about also.
I'm thinking about adding a Yamagata avo.
That should give us tree ripe avos for almost the full year.

I also put in a Jaboticaba, and am impatiently waiting for its first fruit.
I've put in a few pineapple patches around the yard, mixed white and yellow types.
We had homegrown pineapples last year with a few now beginning to form for the coming season.

A Lilikoi was already here and has been a prolific producer.
An orange tree was already in also.
It turned out to be a Valencia, terrible peeling and eating but a delicious juice orange.
I added a Tahitian Lime last summer, impatiently waiting for its first fruit too.

A Kaffir Lime in a pot that came with the property, it got planted.
Its leaves are being used for cooking.
No fruit yet but I am curious to see them when they arrive.
Finally, a couple of Lemon trees were  here, a dwarf Meyer and what I think is a Eureka.
There'll be a few questions about them also.

I think that's about all we've got for now.
There are a few more I'd like to put in if I can find a place for them.

EDIT:
I forgot, I've also put in a couple of dwarf Solo Papayas.
I planted the 15" seedlings just over a year ago.
They are now about 4 to 5' tall.
One has developed the round type fruit, while the other is carrying a more elongated fruit.
They are self fertile, and developing fast.
From the size of their first fruit they should begin ripening in a very few months.

I had tried a couple of Strawberry Papayas 3 to 4 years ago.
They were about 8' tall when they set their first fruit.
The fruit had no seeds in them, and did not taste very good.
I dug them up


 






17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / The Pineapple Plan Has Changed ...
« on: August 19, 2017, 06:47:20 PM »
22 of the original plants grown from tops produced fruit, 3 have yet to finish ripening.
They ranged in size from as big as a normal sized farmers market type, small by Safeway store standards, pineapple down to about the size of a softball.
The balance of the in-ground plants seem as if they will not be producing fruit this season.

Instead of continuing to grow the pineapples in the same locations, I decided to combine all the plants [tops and those that have not yet fruited] into one group and move the plot to another location where they will get more sun and have better soil conditions.
There are now 64 plants in the one group, with room for a few more tops as they accumulate.



I think the condition of the soil is not as important for them as it would be for other types of plants.
My understanding is that Bromeliads are noted for being foliage feeders, getting most of their nutrients from the organic material that accumulates at the base of the leaves.
And from that, It shouldn't be all that bad to have transplanted the remaining in-ground plants.

After they have  been in their new location for a few days to a couple of weeks, I'll begin to regularly foliage feed them.
My hope is to get more of the larger fruit from them.

Open to thoughts and comments.


18
One of the 1st trees I added to our property was a Biew Kiew Longan.
It was a young grafted sapling.
It has now been in place for about 2 years.
It has reached a maximum height of about 8'.


One thing I have noticed about it is that it has 2 growth spurts each year, one in the early spring and again [now] in late summer.
I have just figured out that the spring growth spurt is when it should be flowering in stead of making new stems and leaves, while the one now should be the normal growth period for new stems and leaves.

I'm convinced that this tree should be able to bear fruit next spring/summer. I just need to  figure out how to encourage it to do so.
It is planted in an area of newly made soil. I made it from cinders and a combination of green and composted mulch.
I think I was a bit light on the organic [mulch] components.
I am now bringing in and spreading composted mulch, and adding a general purpose pk type fertilizer as well as dolomite.
I am being careful to not over do it.

This is one of the newly built areas with the longan at the far left.



I have proven to myself that paying attention to nutrition makes a difference with avocados fruiting or not.
I think that may also apply to the longan.

Any practical advice for the longan?

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Pineapple - Post Harvest
« on: August 05, 2017, 08:42:49 PM »
Alright!
I'll Allow 1 or 2 offsets to stay on the mother plants and everything else goes in as a new start.
I'll need to expand my designated pineapple areas.

We moved here from Alaska almost 4 years ago.
I've lived in the norther tier or further north all my life until coming here.
I'm absolutely dumbfound by how fast everything grows around here, especially the weeds.
I guess  year around summertime temps does make a difference.

Since moving into our place here, I've put in:
1. 1x Honey Tangerine
2. 1x Satsuma Tangerine
3. 1x Longan
4. 1x Lychee
5. 1x Rambutan
6. 1x Jaboticaba
7. many x Tall Brazilian Bananas [Hawai'ian Apple Bananas]
8. Many x Pineapples
9. 1x Tahitian Lime
10. 3x Avocados [1 each - Lamb Hass, Ota, & Sharwil]
11. 1x Mulberry
12. 2x Papayas
13. 2x Malabar Chestnuts

Already here put in by the previous owner:
1. 1x Honey Tangerine
2. 1x Unknown Tangerine [probably a Dancy]
3. 1x Dwarf Meyer Lemon
4. 1x Unknown Lemon [probably a Eureka]
5. 1x Sharwil Avacado
6. 1x Valencia Orange [ My Orange Juice Tree]
7. Many x Dwarf Brazilian Bananas [ Hawai'ian Apple Bananas]
8. 1x Lilikoi [Passion Fruit]
EDIT:
9. 4x Coconut Palms [Not old enough to fruit yet]

I did not realize the duplications until well after the fact.
The Rambutan didn't take.
I am looking for a replacement for it.
The new Sharwil also didn't take.
No loss, the Sharwil already here is doing very well.

I'm not sure but, I may have missed some somewhere in that list.
We are fruit faces and we got fruit coming out our ears!

I've had to expand the yard area to get planting space for all the new trees and such.
I've had to build new soil in the new areas.
I'm now hauling mulch from the county green waste facility to build up the new soil.

Some of the new plantings are showing signs of nutrient deficiencies.
The mulch and other additives should help with that.
I haven't worked this hard since I worked for myself, which I guess I'm still doing.







20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Pineapple - Post Harvest
« on: August 04, 2017, 05:07:37 PM »
I began planting both yellow and white pineapple tops in the yard about 2 years ago.
I've got upward to about 3 to 4 dozen plants going with more to go in as I get room and time for them.
I have been picking ripe fruit from the plants for the last month or so with many more coming up to be ready in the very near future.

So, my problem:
After picking the fruit, I am getting offsets from the mother plant as well as tops from the fruit to put back into the ground for the next generation of fruit.

I'm thinking of leaving the offsets on the mother plant in place, then just letting them grow there to use the existing root system.
But, I wonder if it might be better to start all the new growths as new plantings.

Anyone knowledgeable on the best  practice for this?



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