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Messages - kumin

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Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Root stock question
« on: Today at 04:51:23 PM »
New growth, from the base of the tree , allowed to become semi-hard has potential to root next spring. The basic rule is the more tender the cutting, the easier to root, but also more likely to desiccate. Desiccated cuttings quickly lose the ability to root. So it's a bit of a balancing act between too hardened and lowered rooting ability, and too tender and susceptible to desiccation. Timing is extremely important when rooting cuttings. Senescence of the parent plant is also very important, which can be partially overcome by taking cuttings from recent growth close to the bottom of the plant.

These rules are less important with easy to root species and critical on hard to root species.   

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: November 15, 2019, 02:00:15 PM »
Ilya, early dropping of leaves is a good indicator of winter preparedness. My area had warm weather until recently leaving some plants unprepared. The hardiest plants from last winter appear to be the most prepared again at this point.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: November 15, 2019, 12:16:13 PM »
In preparation for winter, the open ground planted trees, as well as the potted trees have been enclosed in a cold frame shelter. This may not be needed in an average winter, but it provides a means for emergency protection if a 50 year Arctic cold event should occur. The very lowest temperature seen in this area in my lifetime was -24 deg F (-31.1 C) in January 1994. Such a temperature would wipe out all the pots and destroy all the other plants, at least to ground level.

This structure was hastily constructed as  we experienced a low temperature of 18 degrees (-7.77 C) earlier this week. The original plan was to cover in early December, but plans were changed due to forecasts. The plants easily coped with the 18 degrees. The plan is to protect the stems in order to  get flowering and fruiting in a few years.

There are no intentions of heating the structure, but in the event of temperatures lower than -10 deg F.(-23.3 C) it would be an option.

Ripe Poncirus fruits have a pleasant scent that is concentrated when confined within a room. I have not experienced any floral aroma to this point, perhaps there's clonal variation? One of my hopes is that the F2 citrange hybrids I'm growing will have a pleasant floral scent. Some of the citrandarins I grew in the past did have floral scents.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Rooting Hormone
« on: November 11, 2019, 07:14:48 PM »
A number of years ago I did woody ornamental rooting in a heated sand bed within a shadehouse. My favorite rooting formula was a liquid that was used a full strength for hard to root cuttings and diluted for easier to root cuttings. The brand is Dip 'N Grow Liquid Rooting Hormone. By storing the liquid concentrate in a freezer, it kept it's potency for years. Once diluted, the solution was used and left over solution was discarded.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Xie Shan Satsuma
« on: November 11, 2019, 06:06:39 AM »
Millet, do you have any Information on the presence, or  absence of viable pollen produced by Xie Shan?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: True hardiness of Flying Dragon
« on: November 07, 2019, 06:53:41 PM »
Southeastern PA in the US doesn't see much Poncirus damage in the spring. Prunus cultivars often suffer from freeze damage at time of bloom. Last year citranges began growth in the very beginning of May with no new damage at that point. The northern US is entering a period of unusually cold weather at present and I expect all late growth on both Poncirus as well as Poncirus hybrids to be damaged, or destroyed. Our fall was quite moderate until recently. The forecast low temperature for next week is 16 degrees F (-8.8 C). This is no problem in 6-8 weeks, but is a bit harsh this early in the season.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Hardy citrus growing in Switzerland
« on: October 22, 2019, 03:35:31 PM »
 Usirius, improved edibility while retaining cold hardiness is impressive!

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: October 15, 2019, 03:38:41 PM »
Great photos, do you have any photos of cut fruit? The fruit does look distinct from Poncirus. How does this tree's hardiness compare to Poncirus? I assume Poncirus has no hardiness issues in your location.

 I once transplanted a mature Poncirus tree with very pronounced nipples on the fruit. The stem end was also elongated a bit, giving a somewhat lemon-like appearance.  The tree trunk was 10 cm in diameter and did not survive transplantation. It would have been wiser to transplant a few of the small seedlings growing under the tree, or save some of the fruits.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: October 13, 2019, 06:32:07 AM »
The oldest Poncirus tree I have. The origin was from Major C Collins in Tifton, GA a cold hardy Citrus enthusiast. This selection has larger fruit than average and slightly more juice and pulp. Seediness is not less. The fruit size difference is not dramatic, but noticeable.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: -Grafting + Dwarf Citrus Questions-
« on: October 12, 2019, 05:05:22 AM »
As mentioned, the rootstock needs to be of adequate diameter to physically accommodate the bud. A properly fitted bud is important for maintaining good contact between cambial tissues. Freely slipping bark is paramount for successful bud grafting. Forcefully peeled dry adhering bark will not provide the required moisture to the bud and it will fail due to desiccation.

Citrus budding becomes successful if a few basic rules are followed:
1. Budding is best done when the stems are actively growing and are increasing in diameter. It is this active cambial tissue growth that allows the bud to be accepted and incorporated as part of the healing tissue. Failed buds are often overgrown by and "swallowed" by the rapidly expanding bark. 

The temperatures need to be conducive to rapid growth. Excessively high temperatures will stress the plant, but are less injurious with adequate moisture. Low temperatures will retard the completion of the healing process, excessively low temperatures will stop the process.

Failures can be caused by
1: poor mechanical fitting of the bud and rootstock.
2: poor timing of correct rootstock growing phase.
3: out of season budding.
4. immature buds , or "blind" buds, being a node with a leaf, but without a viable bud. In this case the budded tissue heals properly, but fails to push, due to the absence of an actual bud.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: citrus grafter needed in San Diego
« on: October 02, 2019, 03:40:07 PM »
Have you considered learning to graft? I learned grafting and budding techniques as a teenager and have usually gotten good results. I found Citrus to be among the easier plants to graft, however timing is very important and needs to be matched to the type of budding/grafting being done. In the beginning I would graft plants I didn't wish to propagate simply for the purpose of developing grafting/budding skills.

I found Citrus, plums, apples and pears to be successful about 90% of the time. My record with persimmons was abysmal however, even the successes failed in a few years due to incompatibility between the Diospyros virginiana  rootstock and Asian cultivar  Diospyros kaki scions.

Learning to bud/graft is a bit like learning to ride a bicycle, the skill is retained rather well.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Wood chips for growing media
« on: September 29, 2019, 07:06:38 PM »
If you can get access to bulk wood chips and permission to grade them using 6mm screen, you should be able to create your own. If you're near a farming community, a hammermill feed grinder could quickly process a large quantity of uniformly sized chips.

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Fast flowing trifoliata (Dwarf)
« on: September 28, 2019, 09:07:02 PM »
franklazar26, if you check the box "save to outbox" your post will be saved for viewing by you and will confirm that the message was sent.

Impressive, your friend has achieved his " Green Thumb" certification.

Congratulations, it looks like the graft will be successful.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: ailing Meyer lemon tree
« on: September 14, 2019, 06:45:48 PM »
If the the water pH is a concern, it might be best to check the water pH level before making adjustments. Adjusting the pH may be warranted, but should probably be monitored on occasion to stay on track.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: September 13, 2019, 02:48:15 PM »
2 photos of  # 011 F2 hybrid top worked on mature Poncirus trees for the upcoming winter test. This selection is one of the hardiest and multiple clones have been propagated as backups. The 3rd photo is the original survivor of these clones.

This is the original plant on May 04, 2019. This plant is deciduous and hopefully can serve as a parent in further breeding.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: 7 on 1 inverted bud grafts
« on: September 13, 2019, 08:11:05 AM »
The second bud scion from the bottom shows continuing vigorous growth. The uppermost bud has made more modest growth. These buds originated from seeds planted in March of 2019. By paying close attention to timing it's possible to go from seed to forced buds and new grafted trees in the same year. It is too late to repeat this outdoors again in this area.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Jackson grapefruit
« on: September 09, 2019, 03:56:15 PM »
By looking closely, it's noticeable that most of the leaves on the right plant are cupped and the stem is thorny. The plant on the left has wider leaves with little cupping, no thorns. These small details can be useful in separating mixed zygotic/nucellar populations.

Sometimes the differences can be very subtle, others are very dramatic such as segregating wide hybrid progeny. 

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Jackson grapefruit
« on: September 09, 2019, 06:15:25 AM »
In addition to the presence of thorns on the one plant, the appearance of the one plant differs slightly. Perhaps it's transitional, or is one of the two zygotic?

The healthy, deep green foliage on the rootstock is a good sign. If both the scion and the rootstock can keep the present green color there is hope the graft may succeed.

I agree with Laaz regarding the undesirability of using scionwood having already pushed buds in the past.

It looks like the scion is alive at this point. My concern would be the long length of the scion in relation to the short rootstock. Eventually, the scion may grow, but the response and "push" might be sooner and more dramatic on a shorter scion with 2 buds or so. I don't know if there is any point in shortening it now.

As an aside, a cardinal rule in pruning is to not leave stubs, but rather to cut as close to the main branch as possible, but not to the point where the branch being pruned diameter begins to become larger. (Do not remove the collar where a branch enlarges at point of attachment to main branch or trunk).

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Insect Free Tree
« on: September 04, 2019, 08:08:39 PM »
Seawalnut, your label is a good reminder that Romanian is a Romance language, rather than a Slavic language.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: 7 on 1 inverted bud grafts
« on: August 31, 2019, 04:33:25 AM »
All 7 were bud grafted at the same time. Any graft compatible scion (bud) could have been used. Since this plant was specifically prepared for a colleague, the recipient will have to force the remaining 2 buds. When multi- grafting cultivars with disparity in vigor, the scions need to be managed to prevent the more vigorous ones from dominating and crowding out the slower growing scions.

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