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Messages - Citradia

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Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Using up those Citrangequats!!!
« on: March 16, 2019, 09:18:05 PM »
Ilya, is peel sweet like kumquat?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus in the Pacific Northwest
« on: February 21, 2019, 07:25:28 PM »
Are trunks ok? No splits in bark near the ground?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus in the Pacific Northwest
« on: February 05, 2019, 06:56:38 AM »
Thatís true. Why didnít you prune the dead wood last year during growing season? What does MIC stand for?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus in the Pacific Northwest
« on: February 04, 2019, 06:20:11 PM »
Oh my goodness; the tree in photo #2 that isnít covered has a lot of brown branches. What is it and how long have those branches been dead? Is the base of the trunk cracked? 

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First good Rio Star grapefruit in 5 years.
« on: February 04, 2019, 06:15:22 PM »
Thanks, guys.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus in the Pacific Northwest
« on: February 04, 2019, 10:07:54 AM »
Good luck with the coming cold!

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First good Rio Star grapefruit in 5 years.
« on: February 04, 2019, 09:47:37 AM »

Cold Hardy Citrus / First good Rio Star grapefruit in 5 years.
« on: February 04, 2019, 09:46:20 AM »
Iíve been caring for this tree for the past five years or so. Usually fruit gets damaged by cold even in enclosure, but this winter has been the warmest here Iíve seen in years with my lowest recorded temp so far being 11 degrees F, and temps have gotten above freezing every day.  I ate this grapefruit today and it was the best quality one Iíve ever produced here. 6-7 more fruit still on tree. Hope my Croxton fruit are good too. More Rio Star pics to follow.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: F2 citrange winter hardiness trial
« on: February 03, 2019, 07:11:51 PM »
The damage wonít show right away. The leaves and green in the branches will slowly turn brown starting at tips and the dead brown tissue works its way down to the trunk and then to the ground. Iíve had trees stay green until spring and then die. Look for cracks in trunks near the ground. If cracks form in trunks, probably gonna die. -15 degrees F and below freezing for a week, unprotected seedling poncirus hybrids, no. Miracle if some make it, and I would love to buy a specimen from you. I wish you the best in your endeavors.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrange growing in Philadelphia
« on: February 01, 2019, 07:21:43 AM »
I bet that wood pile gave off some heat in winter. I had a citrumelo planted next to a wood pile and it went through winters without protection and without defoliation when itís sister seedlings died or defoliated.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Anyone Showing Success in @0F?
« on: January 31, 2019, 08:10:47 PM »
I heard somewhere, probably on this forum that this northern VA/ Washington DC citrandarin finally froze to death during one of the polar vortexes a few years ago and I think the owner moved to Arizona or somewhere out west.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Anyone Showing Success in @0F?
« on: January 30, 2019, 05:47:50 PM »
To clarify; you could grow any of the citrus noted above or even satsumas if grafted on trifoliata and covered with 4 mil plastic, basically a small green house and heat it with space heater when temps are below freezing for prolonged periods of time. Being north of coastal GA and SC, we get prolonged periods below freezing and multiple severe freezes every winter that will kill all citrus except trifoliata if not protected. I have one dunstan citrumelo out of 15 or more that have died over the years outside unprotected; it looks bad now and expect it to croak this spring. They die to the ground each winter basically and try to grow again the next season but eventually they die completely root and all.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Anyone Showing Success in @0F?
« on: January 30, 2019, 05:35:13 PM »
Ross r, as someone who has seen many citranges and Yuzu, and Ichang lemons freeze to death here in western NC even with protection with frost cloth or plastic tents over them with water barrels, Iíd say the only citrus you could grow in PA would be trifoliata.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: January 29, 2019, 08:25:06 PM »
Thatís amazing that you can grow oleander in France, Ilya!  I always thought France had very cold snowy winters. Iím used to oleander only growing in coastal regions of the southeastern US, and know itís too cold for them in our mountains. Iíve learned that the Mediterranean coast of France is rather tropical and am amazed by that too since France is so much further north of North Carolina. Our different continental weather conditions, the effects of the gulf stream, etc, are truly amazing. The posts of the palms and citrus growing in Switzerland blow my mind too. Thanks for your informative posts and pics!

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: January 29, 2019, 06:53:29 AM »
Ilya11, on your pic from 11/26/18, is that oleander behind your citsuma?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: January 28, 2019, 07:27:26 PM »
Mikkel, do citranges tend to be hardy in pots there?  Iíd be afraid of the roots freezing too much in a pot especially if below freezing for three days.

SoCal2Warm, sorry for my long previous comments/ explanation. I looked up 47 degrees latitude and that is near Pacific Northwest which is where I think youíre sometimes referencing for citrus trials. It also includes parts of Europe where some of our forum members successfully grow citrus fruits outside. From what Iíve learned, the Pacific Northwest stays cool year round which is not where citrus would thrive naturally in the wild. Citrus like warm weather. If citrus in Oregon survive winter unprotected, they have received enough chill hours to bloom the next spring provided they receive enough heat to grow. Camellias also like to grow and bloom in the south eastern USA and bloom in fall, winter, and spring depending on variety. I can tell you that camellias are more cold hardy than citrus by a whole lot; they grow outside at my house (zone 6b) unprotected and will bloom in fall or spring unless deer or rats eat the plants.

SoCal2warm, I think I can shed some light on Milletís point about citrus forming flower buds over winter: we learned at one of the south east citrus expos that citrus need some chill hours in winter to bloom in spring, similar to peaches or apples; however, unlike peaches or apples that may need 200 to 400+ chill hours below 45 degrees, a citrus tree only needs a few hours below 45 degrees to bloom. That made me think of the climate of south central FL where I grew up, which is where citrus thrive without care, before greening came around that is. Citrus might be able to survive and grow at a high latitude with winter protection, but that doesnít mean that citrus is happy or will be fruitful at high latitudes. For those of us in cold winter climates, If we can create a climate for the citrus that resembles their native or natural environment, they will perform better than if we subject them to prolonged cold temperatures. If youíre at such a high latitude that citrus outside stops all growth or goes so dormant that it has no hope of blooming in the spring, itís probably going to die anyway like it would in Siberia. For example: a satsuma planted outside without protection where I live in western NC might as well be planted outside in Siberia without protection; the tree wonít make flower buds for spring because itís gonna freeze to death.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: January 12, 2019, 07:38:52 AM »
911311, in my opinion, cold hardy citrus do go dormant or asleep over winter and where I live, they drop their leaves every winter if not protected from freezing temps all winter. However, they are quicker to wake up and start putting out spring growth before the apples and peaches when we start having highs in the 60ís F for a few weeks in February and March. If the apples or plums or apricots are blooming in March and then we get a freeze in the teens, which happens almost every year here, the bloom of plum and apricot are destroyed but the apples and crabapple bloom survive and peach blossom survive if only gets into low twenties; however, if the citranges start putting out growth/ break dormancy, during a hard spring freeze, they die down from 10 feet tall to two feet tall or die to the roots or die completely. Citrus do not like freezing temps. Deciduous fruit trees like apples need cold temps in winter to live and thrive as part of their nature. Just because literature says citranges are hardy to 5 degrees doesnít mean your rusk citrange will grow to 20 feet high and be strong and healthy and fruitful in a climate zone that sees 5 degrees every winter. At 5 degrees over night and below freezing for days, the citranges die to ground even though ďdormant ďbut may ďsurvive ď by coming back from the roots sometime in May or June.


Iíve been experimenting. Those are satsumas on flying dragon under plastic with heaters inside.

911311, your seedlings saw barely below freezing temps for a few hours each night so yes they were lucky to survive. Iím guessing the pots were on the ground getting some heat from ground that has not frozen yet. Sometimes wind at night helps prevent frost from settling on plants and sometimes high freezing winds will damage citrus more than if protected from wind. If youíre potted seedlings are allowed to be outside for many hours in sub freezing temps especially if the soil and roots in pot freeze, they will die. Weíve been relatively mild winter this season so far here other than a heavy snow storm in mid December, and have not seen freezing temps here for three weeks now. However, itís supposed to get into the low twenties mid week, so I plan on bringing my potted hardy citrus indoors. Iíve lost a lot of young ďhardyĒ varieties to freezing temps over the years. Your seedlings will not get tall enough to bloom in 5-10 years if they keep loosing height to freeze damage every winter. Real lemons are among the least cold hardy citrus. In Atlanta itís too cold to grow lemons outside without protection. If you want fruit off a tree growing in the ground in Atlanta, Iíd suggest getting a grafted satsuma, Meyer lemon, Ichang lemon, Changsha mandarin, sour orange, grafted on flying dragon rootstock so you can keep them dwarfed enough to cover them and heat them with space heaters when temps get below freezing. Citrus fruits during late fall and winter (November/December) and north GA can freeze in those months meaning your fruit still ripening in trees will be damaged if prolonged freeze, so need to be covered anyway. Folks in south GA and the coastal southeast can get away with protection via microsprinklers or just planting a tree on south side of house, but in our more continental climate, the fruit takes longer to ripen, shorter growing season, and prolonged freezing temps sometimes below freezing for days, we must fully cover citrus to have success with fruit production. There are no commercial citrus groves in Atlanta for a reason; too cold. You might get fruit off of citrumelo or ichangensis or maybe Thomasville or other citranges in Atlanta without more than protection from northern winds, if you harvest in November.

911311, I was born and raised in Manatee county, FL, surrounded by citrus that grew like weeds without a bit of care. I moved to NC to grow something different like apples, peaches, pears, apricot, cherries, plums, crabapple, Rowan, raspberries, blueberries, paw paw, nearly all of which I was told growing up I couldnít grow in FL because ďit doesnít get cold enough.Ē  I figured Iíd have to give up citrus when I moved to the mountains. Then I discovered a poncirus trifoliata at the Biltmore House in Asheville, NC, and then found McKenzie Farms, SC online, and the rest is cold-hardy citrus history.

Thanks, Millet. I am after all a ďcitruholicĒ! Iíve made some excellent satsuma marmalade this winter for the first time!  Iíve found those two satsuma trees I have and protect to the gills produce so much fruit every year, I really donít need more trees than that, but Itís hard for me to let the other unproductive ďfrom-seedĒ trees freeze to death. I feel sorry for them.

A full-blooded kumquat is going to die deader than a door nail at 0 degrees F if not protected from the zero degrees F. My Thomasville citrangequat dies down to the ground at 7 degrees F. Of course it depends on how long your tree is exposed to temps below 32 degrees F. If itís below freezing for days at a time, you will see severe die back of your trees possibly loosing the entire tree. Even with wind breaks and wrapping the tree in cloth and burying it 6 feet deep in leaves, Iíve lost citranges 8 feet high to zero degrees during ďthe polar vortexes ď we had several years ago. Iíve seen 10 ft tall citranges cut in half or to the ground after a warm February followed by a 14 degree night in March after the trees started to put out just a centimeter of new growth, and these were trees protected in a high tunnel with water barrels next to each tree. Unprotected kumquat in zone 7 in the southeast USA gonna die.

The only citrus that goes dormant in winter is poncirus from what Iíve learned on the forum. Kumquat and their hybrids will go somewhat dormant and are the last to wake up in spring once they have prolonged period of warm weather, which makes them less susceptible to spring freeze damage to new growth. Other than poncirus, all other citrus including poncirus hybrids are very susceptible to prolonged freezing temps that we see in zones 7 and above. Even though my unprotected 15 feet tall dunstan citrumelo with a 6 inch diameter trunk was ďdormant ď with most of the leaves off of it, the trunk still split, actually exploded outward, when I had a low of 7 degrees F and it didnít get above freezing for an entire week last January. My poncirus actually wake up and try to bloom before my hybrids and usually loose their flower buds to freezing weather in spring; however, spring freezes donít cause die back of branches or split trunks on poncirus like they do on poncirus hybrids.

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