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Messages - GregBradley

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1
Citrus General Discussion / Re: The Best Low Cost Juicer
« on: July 17, 2015, 12:59:57 PM »
I have the all metal version of the Breville in that article. It lists for $300, or $100 more that the one in the article. I think I paid $160 for it 10 years ago. It works very well.

Also have the B&D one at work. It is fine for a glass at a time juicing.

2
UCR never hid that Tango was irradiated W. Murcott. Of course, they had to irradiate many seeds and do many tests so probably did a huge amount of work to produce the SEEDLESS W. Murcott.

Seems clearly different in that the farmers can grow it without netting it or protecting the grove from pollination. That seems easily worth $2 a tree to me.

As far as the name being different, I'm sure UCR would have called it xxxxxLS if W. Murcott Afourier wasn't such a silly name and so easily confused with the other Murcott.

3
Oh how the mighty have fallen. California would be in a better place if they would have stuck to agriculture and farmers, and not the trash that currently runs the show.
I think you have that exactly right.

4
I'm still picking fabulous Washington Navels today, May 16,  and they look like they will last until the end of May. The trees were an old commercial citrus grove that was there before the house was built 43 years ago so "mature" may be part of this. At this point they don't need to be picked so much as just touched and they fall into the bag. If they are willing to hang on for another week or two, I will pick them later. They are so sweet they are covered in sticky juice.

My Minneola Tangelos are hanging on the tree better but will clearly be getting a musky taste soon. Tree isn't as old as the WN and Valencias as it clearly replaced a WN that was removed by the original homeowners. I know the tree was old in the late 1980s, first time I was in the backyard.

I saved one of the Valencias and another finally has a decent covering of leaves. The better one looked normal last year but the fruit didn't taste good. I'm hoping it will be good this year. Mostly turned from green to orange last month but still not sweet as of today.

5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Just Not Enough Room
« on: March 23, 2015, 06:01:34 PM »
I used 6 Bearss Limes yesterday for just one Mega Margarita made in a frozen beer glass.

However, with 3 Bearss trees I could see that I would end up with too many so I espaliered one.

6
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Seedless Or Low-Seeded Mandarin Varieties
« on: February 07, 2015, 12:24:43 PM »
The Page had a 3-6 seeds per fruit so I guess that is "Seedless" by their definition. Certainly doesn't fit my definition.

My mature Minneola has about the same number of seeds per fruit but the fruit are much larger, making about 2-3 times the juice per fruit. UCR calls them Low-Seeded.

My 88-2 Mandarins had 0-1 seed per fruit, still far more than my Kishus which have about 1 seed per 20 mandarins or maybe more.

7
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Seedless Or Low-Seeded Mandarin Varieties
« on: February 05, 2015, 02:37:07 PM »
I have not juiced any yet but UCR says "numerous seeds": http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/page.html

Both the parents have seeds but I'm not sure what that means.

I haven't picked any but my first batch looks ready. I guess we will see.

8
Citrus General Discussion / Re: First Kishu of the Season
« on: October 20, 2014, 01:44:23 PM »
I think I got 100 from my 4' tall 3' wide one in a pot. A huge one might give you thousands. It is difficult to imagine too many Kishus but that might do it.

I have found ACP in my yard in two places. Both on very new growth. They were immediately sprayed with cypermethrin for massive overkill. I then bagged that branch to make sure no bees could get near it and removed any fruit from it.

9
In everything I've ever seen, Tango has been said to be developed by irradiating W. Murcott Afourer mandarin.

10
Millet,

I'm sorry but I don't have your info as I bought my OroBlanco just over a year ago.

The ripening time you quoted make sense as California's central valley can really sizzle in the Summer, almost as hot as the Imperial Valley.

My favorite race track to run my track motorcycles is Buttonwillow, Northwest of Bakersfield. Its a good place to avoid in the peak of Summer as it hits 100F almost every day. No wonder there is so much cotton grown there.

11
My climate is close to Riverside. Today's 84F High & 64F Low is very unusual for Summer. Normal June, July, August & September cooler days are 90F/65F and hotter days are 100F/72F. We generally get a week sometime when we see almost 110F each day. We usually see a few days above 110F but not every year.

My older unidentified GF produces fabulous grapefruit. Patty S identified it as a Pink Marsh or similar from the picture below shown with one of my Cocktail GF.

I have since readied a GF section for my grove with Oro Blanco, Melogold, Rio Red, another Cocktail


12
I thought Star Ruby only did really well in extreme south Texas where it is really hot. I was told to plant Rio Red instead in my hot interior SoCal valley, almost as hot as Riverside 25 miles further inland.

13
I worked at picking seedless Mandarins for my yard:

USDA 88-2
Kishu Mini
Pixie
Tango
Yosemite Gold
Gold Nugget

I did buy a couple Page Mandarins but expect to juice them like my seedy Minneola and Cocktail. Some fruits just don't have a seedless equivalent.

14
Citrus General Discussion / Planting a Meyer with "wet feet" issues
« on: June 23, 2014, 02:04:39 PM »
I have two Meyer Standards awaiting planting, which should have happened a while ago. They have been in the sun all winter and under the eaves on the north side of my house as it started to get hot.

I didn't realize that the heavier mix in the Durling tree was holding water much better than the other until the leaves started to yellow a bit and some new lemons started to turn black. I can see now that the soil has been too wet. The other one in the same location with the same watering and fertilizing is doing well.

I will probably have a hole for one of the Meyers ready by tomorrow. I can plant the one that is doing well or the one that has had its feet wet too much. It hasn't lost a single leaf but most of them are drooping and less green than they were. The one that is doing poorly fits the espalier in that location better.

Should I plant it as-is? Should I let it dry out a bit and let it recover in the pot? I was thinking I might take all the mix off the roots and plant it in the hole with minimal amendments.

15
Pretty interesting. I'm actually in the area known as College Heights shown in this label from that website:



I doubt 1% of the people in this immediate area would even know what "College Heights" means.

16
AM Leonard came thru with an email spec with no freight for today so that solves the problem of no local dealers for the rest of the year,

Thanks for the tip on needing to add more Mg.

17
Citrus General Discussion / Shade Structure for Citrus Recovery
« on: May 27, 2014, 12:55:18 PM »
I have an older Valencia Orange that keeps getting sunburn damage on the branches. It was originally overgrown with Ivy and now that it is removed, there isn't enough leaf coverage to protect the branches. Damaged branches make less leaves and the cycle repeats. Summer is coming and the sun is about to get brutal again.

I'm making a semi-temporary shade structure for the Summer. Any idea how dense a shadecloth would be good for a hot inland SoCal Valley? Upland is former Citrus country.

In case anyone is wondering why I don't just spend 10 hours painting every branch, the branches are just covered in the ivy remains and it keeps falling off. If I spent a bunch of time scraping that off, I'm afraid I would kill the tree.

I'm thinking of cutting all the sunburn damaged branches off, which will leave me with a tree about 8' tall and wide. The trunk is about 1 foot diameter. There would still be 100+ leaves on the tree but they would be mostly first year growth sprouted out of the big branches at that point.

I'm considering making the structure a bit bigger so that I can plant two others now that it has gotten a bit late in the year to plant in the full sun.

18
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Kishu Mandarin
« on: May 22, 2014, 07:47:58 PM »
I've had a Japanese friend tell me that there are 4 Kishu varieties in Japan. Makaku variety has the smallest fruit and is completely seedless.

I believe that is the only one sold here in CA. I don't know about other states.

19
Out of 2500 dealers, the only one listed in SoCal never had that product. They were only a book and flower shop and are now gone anyway.

Expanding area to 500 miles finds one in Sacramento and one in Phoenix, AZ. Neither carry the 25-5-15.

1000 miles finds Denver area dealers that don't ship and aren't likely to be cheaper than Amazon or buying direct.

Looks like 95%+ of their distribution is East of Rockies.

I would think the CA citrus growers are using something similar but I'm not sure. The small ones I know are mostly doing it wrong according to the info that I'm learning.

I see two references to 25-5-15 missing Mg but their info sheet for 77900 shows 0.1%. Have they changed it or is 0.1% not enough. It does appear to be missing Ca but don't think that is generally an issue in CA. CA has plenty of Ca, right?   :)


20
I have been trying to find any ONE Citrus Fertilizer with all the nutrients you would want. There seems to be something wrong with all of them. This seems the closest of all. Adding Mg via epsom salts is easy, and cheap. Just buy Epsom Salts. I bought a huge box from Costco for about nothing. However, their info DOES show 0.1% Mg.

Can you imagine trying to grow Citrus if you have to buy your fertilizer at bLowes or Home Dopey?

It would be nice to find Jack's 25-5-15 without such a high freight cost.

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