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Messages - FrankDrebinOfFruits

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1
I pick at stage 2 (slight yellowing), and put in the fridge. I haven't tested it scientifically, but the cold temps seem to kill the fruit fly larvae before it does too much damage. Extra protein. I know, some may find it gross, but better some than none.

I need to start setting fly traps out and around.

2
We never prep scions. Pretty common here in FL, to just snip and graft. Don't think there's much of a difference in rate of take. You can actually graft completely dormant budwood. Once you get cambium binding, the scion can live for months without needing to grow. Where it could potentially have an impact would be when using budding techniques, as it's sometimes hard to get mango budeyes to spring.

As far as sending budwood, one thing to be careful of is not to over moisten the media. Just a few sprinkles of water to maintain humidity within the bag is sufficient. Too much water can lead to early scion failure.

Wrapping with paper towel and inserting into ziplock back works well. Just be sure not to over moisten. Literally a few drops of water is enough.

Agreed (and if I did prep, I would leave a tad bit of the leaf petiole and not cut so flush to the scion material).  I have sent fresh cut scions just as Jeff described to people and take rates are usually very good.

Cutting flush to the scion allows the parafilm or buddy tape to have no air pockets for nasty mold/fungus to grow. Also, less chance that the leaf petiole won't poke through the parafilm wrap. I actually prefer flush cut with no damage to the bud.  Just my preference.... I have only done a few hundred grafts... so just a newb  ;) (and I am serious, compared to nursery people).

3
Need a follow up post  ;D

What are people using for packaging scions. Most come in a ziplock bag.  Inside the bag I have seen moistened vermiculite, small piece of lightly moistened paper towel, wrapped in moistened paper towel, dry and wrapped in para film/buddy tape... Any preference? Any drawbacks of each? I have yet to notice any...

4
I was out trimming some trees today. Have to see how it goes. It is supposed to be a cat 1 when it is south of here.  Last storm in April (16" of rain in 24 hours on this side of the island) I had my grafted young durians under 3 feet of water for 5 hours until the water drained out. I stood them all up after the storm and they all survived. I was quite surprised. I just planted another seedling a few weeks ago... and I was supposed to plant another this week.  It is a nice spot because of the access to unlimited water, but the negative side is that they have to survive these storms.

5
His friends are coming, and they mean business!


6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rambutan Fever in South Florida, USA
« on: August 10, 2018, 01:47:09 PM »
Once you try a good pulasan, you can easily forget about the greatness of rambutans.

I donít think Iíve tried a good Pulasan. So, Iíll keep a lookout for them. Meanwhile, the Rambutan Fever continues.

P.S.
They (the Rambutan) are hairy and red, rivaling (if not overpassing) the beauty of the Lychee; This fact is also a big Commercial plus!

I don't get it, sorry.  I've had both, and I'm perfectly happy with a good lychee.  Kinda like arguing which mango is best. OS, LZ or PPK??  Wouldn't you be happy with any of those??

Lychees are good, but it a different class.  Lychees are a favorite any day. If the choice was between longan, rambutan, and pulasan. I might take the worst named pulasan variety over the best longan or rambutan variety. There are probably as many named pulasan varieties as longan varieties. 

Disclaimer: I have 3 longans and 0 pulasans growing, but it is on my search list. It is extremely hard to find a good grafted one here.

7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Who grow Durian in South Florida?
« on: August 09, 2018, 09:14:34 PM »
That looks a lot like a jackfruit/other Artocarpus  ???

The good news is you have a much better chance with it :)
2nd, that looks like jackfruit or derivative. Along with the good news above, if you took really good care of it, you could get fruit in 3-5 years. Bad news, it should be a lot bigger to hold fruit. And will need plenty of room/water, a much/much larger pot.

Durian is 8-12 years to fruit (if you are lucky). They say that a durian doesn't reach it's peak flavor profile until the tree is 20 years old.  An extremely long investment on any lifespan. I look at the investment on trees in terms of probability (probability not to die due to disease, flooding, insects, probability to not move away from the house before the tree matures) and cost of ownership as an annual investment (time to prune, feed (fertilizers, wood chips, tree clippings), insecticides (if necessary), water, mow around, weed around, opportunity cost of not growing "something else" in that space).... Durian and mangosteen are the highest cost trees.  So besides the scarcity of the fruit driving up the price, the scarcity (lack of supply) is driven by the investment cost, and also directly drives up the fruit price because the grower knows how much he invested into it.

On the other hand pineapples, bananas, dragon fruit, and papayas are the perhaps the lowest cost ownership of any plants/trees.

8
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rambutan Fever in South Florida, USA
« on: August 08, 2018, 08:44:53 PM »
Once you try a good pulasan, you can easily forget about the greatness of rambutans.

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Stolen fruit grrrr
« on: August 08, 2018, 02:01:34 AM »
I am planning on an electric fence. It will help to keep 2, 3 and 4 legged creatures out. All one legged and 5+ legged creatures are welcome :)

Reminds me of this joke https://youtu.be/nHcGLyrH4h4

Crap, most of my mangos are fiberless, now I have to worry about the guys with one tooth too.

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Best mango varieties for high rainfall
« on: August 07, 2018, 01:38:27 PM »
I am wondering if anyone has recommendations for disease resistant mangoes that fruit well in wetter tropics.  100+ inches rainfall annual east side big island hawaii.. I am growing relatives like odorata and kasturi. So far I have planted brooks late, maha chanok, rapoza, chock anon.  Most all fruits get destroyed by anthracnose on local trees.  Ive seen florigon do well but it is not so great of a mango.  Any suggestions would be most helpful thanks
Adam Crowe
Aina Exotics

In addition to the trees you have listed, I have had some success with Cac.   I have started top working a couple trees over to brooks late as it's a real workhorse in wet summers. My choc anon is still young and hasn't flowered. I have high hopes for Nam Doc based on surrounding farms doing well with it.

11
Is the major issue the ground slope under the woodchips? Excess water should still flow off the property if the property has proper drainage. How big an area are we talking?

If you want to breakdown the woodchips faster, use a diluted urea to help it breakdown.

If I had full clay soil, I would till in something to help with the absorption, since a lack of absorption would also slow growth.  Calcium carbonate or a lot of sand or something else to provide better drainage, small pea rock, etc. Starting with proper drainage is important though, otherwise ponding will always occur.  I have seen another picture of a guy that used an excavator and carved a checkerboard pattern to help reconstruct the soil, that was extreme though.

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Who grow Durian in South Florida?
« on: July 24, 2018, 08:51:11 PM »
Decided to add some data. Data analysis is what I do all day long...

Here is data on averages (fairly similar), but it's not the average low that is killer, it's the max low. 


Kauai Annual Temp


Lake Worth Annual Temp

If you could avoid that min low.... then you are in businnes.. The cost to avoid that min low is what is expensive.

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Who grow Durian in South Florida?
« on: July 24, 2018, 08:44:17 PM »
Does it even fruit in Hawaii or Costa Rica?
Yes, fruits here.  Our summers are more mild than Florida. We very rarely get above 90 in the summer (Our Hawaii avg summer high is 81). Our winters are warmer than Florida. We hardly get below 60. Lowest is maybe a couple nights 55, avg high is still 75. I think Durian would do better in this area with the intense sun/heat and humidity of a Florida summer. However, I wouldn't like a Florida summer  :P

14
I have seedlings that fruited in 3 years and another going on 6 years with no fruits.  Planted within 15' of each other.  The one that produced in 3 years was not attacked by the japanese rose beetle. I feel as though the beetle sets it back tremendously. I would suspect there is something in the leaves that either makes the tree attractive or not attractive. If breeding, success would be increased by finding a type the beetle doesn't care for.  If you find your tree continuously getting attacked by beetles, start over, as it may be faster.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Longan Pride
« on: June 16, 2018, 05:28:51 PM »
I drove by a truck on the highway heading home after getting a load of fertilizers. I saw a truck with a sticker in the back. It read "Longan Pride". I said, right on, it's about time people grow quality fruits to be proud of. Later I was next to him on the highway with my window down I almost shouted "I love Longans! I also have love for the lychees, rambutans, and pulasans".



.. And I realized it was Tongan  :o . I am still thinking of getting a sticker that says "Avocado Pride"  ;D


16
BTW, if you've never seen an iron bog, they're really curious things.  For the first couple years of owning my land I honestly thought I had a couple oil slicks where someone had just dumped their motor oil.  Basically it means that uphill from me, pyrite is breaking down to form sulfuric acid, which dissolves (ferric) iron from the basalt, and then when it gets to air, special bacteria oxidize it, leaving these black, iridescent slicks on the surface (goethite, if I remember right) and brown iron muck (limonite + decomposed bacteria) on the bottom.

And wow have I ever gotten sidetracked from the conversation here....
Does this "iron bog" have an awful foul smell? I came across something like this recently, and I was very curious to the cause.  It happens near a swamp area of mine.

17
I wish I had more rock at my place. I found maybe a few dozen 1 foot diameter rocks. They have tons of rock on the west side of Kauai.  I would love to make some retaining walls, walking paths, privacy fences, landscaping etc. I have gone so far to lava rock concrete stamps (almost cheaper to get cement than buy and truck rock).  Then I think about the extreme opposite (i.e. all rock and no dirt), and it is scary if you are trying to grow stuff. Not sure which problem is worse, paying for rock or paying for dirt. I think I would rather pay for rock, then every time I dig I hit rock.  I was visiting someone in Kona and had to bare root the trees, and they were so excited to have the soil from the pots. I had this look  :o being from Kauai, there is so much dirt.

This thread has been an eye opener, especially the last few posts about the different types of flows. Thanks!

18
Whatever you do, don't freeze the lychee and then mail it. When it thaws it rots super fast (2 days they are black and gross, even if refrigerated).

19
I heard that plant supplied one quarter of the big island's energy needs. What was the alternative source that they switched to?

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dwarf durian tree
« on: May 16, 2018, 10:29:40 PM »
So are there definitely no dwarf durian varieties?

If not, could a seedling durian be kept at ~ 10 feet and still fruit?


Assuming this is an idea to do inside a greenhouse, anything is possible with enough $$$.  If I was to try, I would try air pots, and maybe a single or double graft to reduce my work and increase the likelihood of success. Then after 1 year, and seeing the investment, I would either
a.) eat frozen durian
b.) save my money and every few years fly to somewhere and eat until I had enough, and still save on the labor and heartache.


Perhaps eventually a seedling at 10í could fruit but I imagine it would be very long haul.  The durian doesnít need height per se to fruit.  But it does need development and constantly cutting it back is going to cause delay to development.  Durian seedlings are naturally forest trees that want to grow to 100í in their ideal environment.
Peter

We had a speaker here recently (maybe 3 years ago), and I don't want to quote them because its just from memory, not from notes or videos (and reviewing their presentation, I see no mention). They said that cutting back a durian tree, keeping it well pruned, caused it to fruit in 8 years instead of 10. I don't know from experience, so I have no hat in this game. I am going to try it, but I won't remember to report back in 8 years...  ;D

Hopefully Mike T will chime in again on this one.  I recall Mike's buddy Peter Saleras in Aus showed durian fruiting on his special trellis system and as I recall they were relatively small trees.  I don't know if they were 10' in the pics but probably not much bigger -- Mike would be the one for more details.  But as Peter (from Costa Rica)  & others have pointed out, most want to be big trees so it will take some work to maintain them that small.

John

Yea. Here is the slides from the presentation
http://www.hawaiitropicalfruitgrowers.org/conferences/2017/2017_Peter_Salleras_Fruit_Forest_Overview.pdf

21
How old are your trees and is this the first year they are producing?

My oldest was planted from a 3 gal May 2016. Another one last year. I have two freshly grafted ones ready to be planted soon.
The oldest is 7 ft tall, the first to flower, and large enough to hold fruit if the rains let up.

22
Of course, even this was decades old tech (before we even had computer modeling), let alone the century-old tech last attempted on Hawaii  :)

Modelling. HA! Our DMV is still tracking cars with 3x5 cards and a typewriter. I wish I was joking. You know how DMV is sometimes slow, well wait until the nice aunty gets the typewriter unjammed.

23
I have 2 trees, doing ok, just got blooms, but the wet spring / summer is surely going to cause anthracnose and powdery mildew.

I need to beef up my spraying.

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Loaded little Sweet Tart
« on: May 04, 2018, 02:35:40 AM »
To say I am jealous would be an understatement. What are you feeding it? Looks like heavy mulch, but what else?

I spotted flowers on my sweet tart today... looks like its going to be a late season here. Now only if it would dry up, way too much rain here.

25
Hi Mark, I'm about to make a RootBuilderII purchase of the 100' rolls.  I mean to use it on the side of my house (as you can view here: http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=27042.msg312313#msg312313).  I haven't yet decided whether to block the bottom of the pot (no in ground roots) or allow root penetration (up/down).  The reason I would want to disallow below surface rooting are:
1) I might want to relocate these trees in the mid-term future.
2) The neighbor has three well established fruit trees, and I don't want those roots "feeding" into my rootbuilder soil
3) I had several trees in the area that I recently pulled up, and their roots are overrunning the sub-surface.

I'd love to hear what folks think about blocking the roots at the ground surface.

Another choice point I have.  I can purchase the double-height (34") Root-Builder roll.  This is double the cost, but it might work better if I were to block the surface off.  It would also give me more room to create a mulching layer.  Thoughts?

BTW, working with a local Hydro store, I was able to get the Wholesale pricing for these ($250/roll standard height).  Something to consider if others are looking to purchase in bulk.

Thanks,
Naysen


3M makes an product, I forget the exact name. Its the one used by Dr Yonnemoto (Japanese greenhouse mangos) for keeping the roots from penetrating. I believe I posted the name on the forum a few years ago.  It's similar to tyvek but I think its thicker. If In a pinch I would use tyvek.

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