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Messages - Bomand

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Citrus General Discussion / Re: florida citrus?
« on: January 16, 2020, 04:22:41 PM »
And Florida fruit will be the same as in your local grocery. Good luck on your trip.

It really does not matter when you repot a citrus that lives in a container. As a personal preference I do not repot when I have blooms. The disturbance will sometimes cause the blooms to abort and sometimes not. Root prune when you repot if needed. If roots are too crowded root prune them.  Prune off as much tree growth as you root prune. Install new potting medium, fertilize, water and place in an area that it likes. I have limes in containments and I try to repot every two years. Salt buildup is a common problem if you fail to repot.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Introducing new citrus varieties
« on: January 14, 2020, 04:17:42 PM »
Not only that but it has been "unavailable" for over a year.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Canít get rid of fungus gnats, any ideas?
« on: January 09, 2020, 05:10:24 PM »
Easy way is to install 1 inch of white sand over the soil in the pot. Gnats can not get to the soil and emerging ones can not get to the surface. They only live a week so in a couple of weeks you should be rid of them. They like wet the top two in hes of soil dry out before watering....then water from the bottom.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Help IDing lemon ? and pomelo ?
« on: January 09, 2020, 11:49:26 AM »
The only Meyer I have is a strange one. It was a cutting from my original Meyer. It has  dark green leaves, is ever bearing, looks nothing like a lemon. Round like an orange, bigger than a lemon and smooth. Flowers are purple like Meyer. I dont know why I keep it.....Meyer is so far from a good lemon....give me a good Eureka anytime. Since Meyer is a cross it does not surprise me that its an odd case.  As far as green cots on seed....mandrins do .....but I have seen others with green cots at certian times of the seasonal growth.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Mandarin tree with yellow leaves
« on: January 04, 2020, 02:01:14 PM »
I might try a little epsome salt or fish emulsion once in a while. Be aware that citrus constantly sheds leaves. The leaves last about 18 months. They start to yellow and finally fall off. This is the life if citrus leaves. Yellow leaves do not always indicate a problem.

I too have not read of "meat based" sprays for citfus. Not a lot of definitive information out there. As far as seawood & kelp sprays ....just another, of many, ways to fertilize. I sometimes spray with fish emulsion. I guess one could consider fish emulsion  meat based. Just not a lot of "good" research to be had.

Seaweed and Molasses????????? I would love to see the research behind this. Im thinking of all the trouble to turn seaweed into a spray that could be absorbed via folage

Citrus General Discussion / Re: What kind of Kumquat do I have?
« on: December 31, 2019, 02:06:49 PM »
I am one that knows that kumquat thrive on their own roots. I have read lots of material that is pro grafting but I have 12 and 13 year old kumquat, heavy bearers each year from seed. Slow growers as all kumquat is but happy prolific trees.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: What kind of Kumquat do I have?
« on: December 30, 2019, 10:03:50 PM »
I too find kumquat difficult to t bud. Can be done but you losses will be large. The Becnels do use Carrizo for a large part of their rootstock. I did find some Swingle in use at their Belle Chase location. I like to cleft kumquat on standard Poncirus.  It grows well for me.

 :Hi Fran
I have tried but failed to decipher your verbsge . Please state you intent again. Not being critical but am interested and would like to know. Thanks so much.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: CUPS (Citrus Under Protective Screen)
« on: December 22, 2019, 11:07:59 AM »
The screened area they are speaking of is probably a large greenhouse. To be certified certian requirements have to be met. They are pretty expensive and restrictive. I dont know of any way other than this to get a. Insect proof containment.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Tango mandarin stunted after re-pot
« on: December 18, 2019, 04:04:09 AM »
I see you are in CA. Your climate is different from the other zones. Certainly your time to flush and fertilize would be diffrent also. It would be hard to get any cold damage lots of placez in CA. Micro climes exist that schedules are altered also.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Tango mandarin stunted after re-pot
« on: December 17, 2019, 08:47:05 PM »
Fertilizing now can cause new growth and waking of any dormancy  the trees hold. Then a cold snap comes along and your trees will get damaged. All my outside do not get fertilize untill March 1 and I do not fertilize after August for these reasons.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Grapefruit graft on ujukitsu seedling
« on: December 16, 2019, 03:36:58 PM »
Grapefruit is compatible with tons of stuff. I have never done the combination you speak of.....but I feel that it would work. The gfruit will be a vigorous grower and might overgrow your U. I graft gfruit to sweet orange and mandrin seedlings and have no problem. Some grapfruit on citrange is not a compatibility but not a failure by any means. Try it.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Grafting successful or too early?
« on: December 15, 2019, 11:04:22 AM »
It looks like you were lucky here in this pic to get enough cambium contact to transfer nutrients and get calloused startimg to mend the union. Again...I am not being critical. Your skills will sharpen as you learn. A quality graft is done in a manner that includes inducing the growth of a scion in a particular place, position or direction you want it to grow. When buddiing, if done right the apical dominance will take care of seeing that the scion reaches for the sky. Remember that timing and skill is everything in citrus grafting. I see that you are in zone 5. Grafting time could be a little different than my zone.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Grafting successful or too early?
« on: December 15, 2019, 03:57:25 AM »
Walter.. from your pics I would venture that: The new growth that you see is the result of stored energy in the scion. This happens when conditions warrant it. New cuttings will also do this but never form roots and become a viable stand alone new life. It looks like your grafting technology is not well developed. I always recommend that new grafters start with cleft grafts. Cuts need to be tight and cambium needs to be in contact with scion and rootstock. Wrapping needs to be tight and waterproof. As for removing parafilm: I do not remove it at all unless the wrap is in position to girdle the union and cut off the flow of nutrients. Sun and natural deterioration will take care of removing the parafilm. I can not see your skill set as to grafting real well in your pics but it looks a little haphazard and loose. I am not speaking to criticise but to assist you. I do not want to discourage you either. I am including a link to the best cleft grafting tutorial I know of. Good luck with your grafting and welcome to the forum.  Your last pic looks suspect to failure as far as I can tell. A good cleft is a much better option in my opinion.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Compost heating for greenhouse
« on: December 13, 2019, 05:09:02 PM »
In order to provide energy compost has to be comprised of the right material. Has to be turnrd on schedule and kept at the right moisture level. It is a good way to keep a small enclosure above freezing unless you are in the Artic. I have a small cold frame that I heat with compost. It is a crude one but effective. It is an old bath tub with compast in the bottom and soil on tol of that. Its covered by an old window. Works like a charm. Notice what zone I am in

An intrestock may help. To me the time and work required to complete an interstock graft is a deterant to me doing it. Interstocking is sucessful in some cases but l have less than "goal orinted" results. I do  graft some interstock in cases of severe incompatability with rootstock or rare varities that I want to be certian they will survive.... I have used African Shaddock as Eureka rootstock and had a measure of success.....even some dwarfing effect. If you want to try an interstock I would go.....Flying Dragon base, Volk lemon interstock and Eureka on top. I have not done this.....but its what I would do if I was to build a dwarf varigated Eureka. Let us know your plan. I would also graft my varigated eureka onto a good Benton Citrange and control the size by other methods. Benton is a vigorous  citrange but is able to support Eureka . I also would try varigated eureka on macrophylla.

You are right. You must be carefull with compatability issues with lemon. Shaddock is considered a semi dwarfing rootstock and works well with lemon. Dwarfing is accomplished by various methods. Rootstock, container planting, pruning and location all have factors in tbe size of citrus. Container specimens will be smaller than an in ground planting. Pruning can limit the size of any tree.....all the way to bonsai culture if one desires. Lisbon lemon grows well on FDragon an is on a par with Eureka as far as lemon quality goes. However.....if I wanted a Varigated Eureka, your dwarfing rootstocks choices are limited.

You will be good then if you will be inside. Kumquat from cuttings will bear fruit quickly. From seed you are right....they have to grow out of their juvenile stage and reach proper node count. From seed they will usually bear fruit within 24 months with good care. It requires a little skill to start citrus from cuttings, other than Meyer Lemon. It can bs done with the right procedure and a good rooting hormone. Beginners  usually have limited success with some citrus about it and study the procedure and dive in.....nothing like "hands on" to teach a fellow. Good luck with  them.

I do not root kumquat. Reasons are:

Rooted cuttings do not develope a tap root. Therefore they are subject to be blown over/uprooted by winds. Kumquat cuttings are slow growers. I find that starting with seed allows a faster root growt system. A well started seed will outgrow a cutting in the first season.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: sick fingerlimes
« on: December 12, 2019, 11:41:54 AM »
With seedlings, extreme sun exposure can damage can other factors. Factors such as:
Contaminated potting soil.
Too much water, low light and low temps.
    It looks to me that your seedlings are suffering from twig die back....caused by any of the above. If you are applying fertilize ....the be careful not to over do it. The seedlings look to big to be affected by damping off. Fingerlimes sometimes suffer from environmental changes.....moving them to a different place will sometimes cause  dieback. Give us a little history. How old are the seedlings?

My personal experience is: After hearing many times that kumquat do not do well on their roots I planted Nagami  and Meiwa seed. That was 12 years ago. Both cultivars ate tall, wide, prolific bearing trees. They are happy and get standard maintenance. I can only say that kumquat are fine on their own roots.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Hiryu Flying Dragon
« on: December 02, 2019, 08:18:46 AM »
Low, low seed count. I AVERAGE 30 seeds per fruit on Standard Poncirus and 25 on FD. I have not seen that low of a count. Could it be environment or nutrition dictating low seed count?

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