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Messages - fsanchez2002

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8
1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Kwai Muk
« on: July 02, 2019, 07:35:54 AM »
Kwai Muk fruiting first time. About 30 fruit

Congratulations. My Kwai Muks in Homestead also have fruits now, similar size as your picture. Hoping fruits develop/ripen. 6 years from seed, 9ft tall, 5-6 inch caliper, likes water and fertilization, iron in our soil, full sun.

Frederico, you're right down the street from me. I'm just south of Knausberry. If you ever want to bullshit about trees let me know.  -Jon

sure, traveling during summer, lets do fall.

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Kwai Muk
« on: July 01, 2019, 12:08:07 PM »
Kwai Muk fruiting first time. About 30 fruit

Congratulations. My Kwai Muks in Homestead also have fruits now, similar size as your picture. Hoping fruits develop/ripen. 6 years from seed, 9ft tall, 5-6 inch caliper, likes water and fertilization, iron in our soil, full sun.   

3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Abiu - what am I doing wrong ?
« on: June 16, 2019, 11:18:05 AM »
I live in orlando and wonder if i can grow the abiu. The temperature does dip down a bit and the soil is sandy. I may have to amend the soil and start with a 15 gallon plant to have any chance of success.
How are the fruits? Never tasted it. Is it sweet / sour / tart ? what is the seed to pulp ratio? how big does the tree get?
IMO it will not do well in Orlando. I personally wouldn't bother. It can only tolerate under 40F for brief periods and doesn't like cold; gets cold-induced chlorosis very easily.

5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Suriname cherry varities
« on: April 27, 2019, 02:50:58 PM »
Well for me like alot of other fruit the more I eat the more I enjoy the taste. I also have a large hedge by my place  and have raided it for a couple yrs now. I find them to be sweetest when they are soft and about to drop off bush. Shaking helps identify the ripest. But I am now at the point where I actually enjoy the spicy resinous flavor and eat a couple orange underripe ones no problem.
As for Named varieties I have only heard of Zills Black Suriname here in Swfl fla.
I completely agree with your comment. The more I eat them the more I like them.
IMO Reds can be more tart and more resinous, but more complex flavor. Definitively wait until you touch and they drop; they have minimal resinous then. IMO there's no difference between "named" varieties and seedlings. Fruit flavor varies a lot from plant to plant, location to location and year to year. I have eaten hundreds and grow many of them and have not been able to establish a flavor patter. Just plant seeds and you should have fruits in 2-3 years.

6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Does Star Apple Taste Any Good?
« on: April 09, 2019, 12:00:54 PM »
I recall Mike T from Aus posting about other color forms (gold, pink, pearl) that they have there that are supposed to be superior to the purples & green.  He & Oscar also talked about a cousin, C. argentium var. auratum, that is supposed to also be a cut above the common caimito.  I haven't tried the auratums yet but have trees in the ground from Oscar & Mike (still a few years to go).

There are many species of chrysophyllum, and i believe they are all edible. The pink is the same as the Chrysophyllum argenteum var. auratum. The pink starapple tree made a lot of fruits this year, over 200. They are sweeter than regular starapple, have longer season, only one seed per fruit, but fruit is a bit smaller than regular starapple.
I mailed seeds to many people, including forum members, a couple weeks ago. Sorry but no more seeds for a couple of months. There is a new crop already on the tree, but fruits are still small.


Oscar, are there more cold tolerant species besides Chrysophyllum cainito? What about auratum?

I concur 100% with Oscar, Mike and John: top-tier fruit for sure.
Oscar: I also have pink cultivars and agree that they're better but smaller. Can you clarify? you're saying pink cultivar is same species as Chrysophyllum argenteum var. auratum?
Two other benefits of this fruit IMO: 1. Can stay on the tree longer when ripe (i.e. doesn't fall to ground or gets overripe easily) and 2. Doesn't get fruit flies in my experience.

7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Abiu - what am I doing wrong ?
« on: April 02, 2019, 01:18:12 PM »
Iíve always heard itís hard to grow in Florida.  We grow abiu in a clay loam that has a ph of about 6 but I think it would do alright at 5 even.  I imagine it wouldnít want the temp. To go below about 50f.  How are we doing?
I agree with Peter; It's delicate in FL when it's small, but if you get it to survive it does very well. I have several at over 10 ft (6 yrs old) which do well and give great fruit in SoFl.
Main problems:
1. Tends to get wierd fungal infection in FL when young: this is the main threat as it can kill a tree easily. Spray with systemic fungicides when under 3 ft every couple of months.
2. Likes fertilization and low pH: definitively lots of chelated Fe and micronutrients.
3. Likes organic soil and water: provide plenty of mulch and irrigation until settled (3-4 years)
4. Doesn't like cold temp (below 45), ok with 50+ protect when young if needed.

8
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Artocarpus lacucha
« on: March 14, 2019, 07:57:43 AM »
How is the taste? Aroy dee?

Felipe: I've had several times and I think taste is quite good. Quite different from other Artocarpus. Mild flavor, good combination between mild acidity and mild sweetness, subtle, not overpowering, something between a mild tangerine and orange sherbet ice cream flavor. Soft pulp. Fruits about the size of a smaller grapefruit, sometimes round, sometimes deformed. Ripe fruit falls from tree and splatters on the ground if not picked. Wait until orange skin for perfect ripeness. IMO it does relatively well in USDA zone 10, some resistance to cold (40-50F) no problem, but no experience with near freezing temperatures.

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dropping in ground Lucís Garcinia
« on: January 28, 2019, 03:02:42 PM »
there is one spot that is more shaded over the course of the day/during the course of the year.  I have a lemon drop mangosteen that is happy but is happy not doing anything either. ha.  and they're supposed to fruit in semi/full shade too.  that area has a guava, soursop, and a grumichamma in the area so they would provide extra shade I suppose. 

I have this one crippled one from oscar that I could experiment. the nice straight one i just up-potted so probably can wait till it pushes out more growth and then make a decision. 

Just killed a cherapu by puttng it in too early so want to be 'careful' this time. 

thanks for feedback.
I have several Luc's in full sun in SoFl for several years (now 4-5 ft tall), they like it and do very well, but it's critical to give them plenty of water (daily even better).
Cherapu does not like full (prefer significant shade at least until 5 ft tall) sun and needs protection from cooler (under 50) weather to thrive, also loves water.
I completely agree that garcinias in general were not meant to grow in pots (cherapu maybe can do pots for a while). I plant garcinias in the ground very early (under 8 tall?) BUT protection from full sun and wind, and a solid central stake until 36-48 inches tall is key for survival. When you transplant provide a very solid central stake for a couple of years while they develop strong root system to support plant's structure.
 

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Eugenia florida
« on: December 09, 2018, 06:05:05 PM »
The tree I dug up is over 4'. It was doing fine and I put it in the ground and
it kept flushing but the new growth didn't turn green. Instead it had burnt tips on the leaves
and was a yellowish red color instead of green. I didn't hit it with any fertilizer
I just planted it in mix of sand and compost. My other tree is closer to 2 feet and it was getting
afternoon sun and it was looking bad still in the pot. I put it back in the shade and it is doing better?

Federico, you have plants in full sun with no ill effects? After three years how big are your trees?
I am watering with rain or pond water and I will try spraying fungicide on them. I was inclined to think
the sun was the problem or my ph in my soil. My ph is around 7 or slightly lower. Thank you for replying

Mi trees are about 3 year-old, 4 ft tall and starting to flower. Probably get 20% shade (not full sun). I have a feeling it's an easy tree, but fungus and lack of minor can affect. My ph is very alkaline and my well water is very alkaline but it seems to do just fine with iron/minors supplementation. With many eugenias it's challenging to get them to 2 years (2 ft?); afterwards they are much more resilient.

11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Eugenia florida
« on: December 06, 2018, 11:39:36 AM »
I have several 3-year old EFlorida and dozens of species of Eugenias/Plinias/Myrtaceaes and they're thriving SoFl Zone 10. Most of them have had life-threatening problems with weird fungus in SoFl that makes the plants decay over time by killing tips and new growth. I take these 2 critical steps which have guaranteed success. I hope this helps others with similar problems.

1. I now have a 100% fungicide strategy with small plants (under 2 ft) for 2-3 years until they're more mature and don't need this and start fruiting. I can not emphasize this enough: it has totally saved most of my eugenias/myrtaceaeas and helped them thrive: FUNGICIDE STRATEGY MIX THREE PRODUCTS: Do not mix copper with other fungicides! A. Aliette Bayer is the ONLY real systemic fungicide! from DoMyOwnPest Contro, B. Salt of Potassium Phosphate (Agrisel BioPhos Pro Systemic Fungicide - 2.5 Gallons DoMyOwn or Agri-fos), C.Chlorothalonil (Daconil Docket WS Fungicide - Generic Daconil Weather Stik) from DoMyOwnPest Control. I mix these 3 products and apply every couple of months as a leaf spray.

2. iron and minors 2-3 times a year plus fertilizer. PLants will still decay from fungus even with adequate iron/minors/fertilizer. I think sun or part shade is no problem.
Good luck. F. 

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Camu Camu forest (Myrciaria dubia)
« on: November 20, 2018, 06:55:35 PM »
All of our findings come at a cost to all of us, shared or not.
Out of curiosity, who else that posts here has refused to share?  I donít remember any, if Iím mistaken, then I stand corrected.
Off to the farmers market.
With all due respect,
Peter

With all due respect I also have to participate: In my experience EVERYONE benefits from a free exchange of knowledge. Specially on a forum like this one. Open information is the principle by which the best science has been done universally and most of human progress has come about (think universities, scientific institutes and the Internet). Information is not a zero-sum game and knowledge grows exponentially as more information is available, benefiting everyone. You can't force people to share their "proprietary knowledge" but IMO those who act in such a way end up losing more in the long term as others will not share information with them. IMO the rationale for not sharing discoveries (for example specifically in this forum) is short-sighted and missing the "big-picture". I hope your "proprietary information strategy" on camu-camu makes you the billionaire king of camu-camu!

BTW I've had a handful of camu-camus for over 4 years. I haven't given them any special treatment, and I believe after 4 years of healthy growth they're finally decaying... too bad :( hahaha

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: GMO Papaya/Solo Papayas in Florida
« on: October 20, 2018, 06:49:45 PM »
I have been harvesting from all 4 types of Solo papayas here in Sarasota, FL 34240. These Waimanalo X-77 were soft on the "tree" this morning and taste incredible. There have been some what I believe is fungal issues on the skin and some have worms from the Papaya wasp but I haven't been proactive in bagging or using the tanglefoot/green ball method. I am wondering if the fungus enters through the stinging injuries.

SOLO TYPES WILL GROW AND FRUIT IN FLORIDA AND THE TASTE IS BETTER THAN ANY OTHER PAPAYA I HAVE EATEN.

I will try some grafting experiments at a later time with Red Lady or another reliable Florida producer rootstock to see if that helps push them along in the cooler months. 



I've grown and harvested Waimanalo X77 in SoFl and IMO these are hands down the best papayas I've ever had. They've also resisted for over 2 years without ringspot virus, but finally giving up.

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Malaysia pilgrimage
« on: September 10, 2018, 09:49:28 PM »
Good questions Federico. 
I visited a nursery just outside KK in Sabah, but the best looking material I saw for transporting was in Tenom.  Seemed like a very professional fruit tree nursery brought a lot of trees to a Thursday farmers market.  Iím sure they have a facility locally but I saw them at that market.  Very nice looking material in good soil that would be easy to wash away and prepare for shipping.  Lots of premier grafted durian priced from about $6-$15 depending.  Other grafted fruit trees as well.  That was the best I saw although there are lots of places all over, I understand.  Some more expensive as well as some subsidized nurseries that are cheaper.
There are formalities going between the peninsula and Borneo states, etc.  I never saw anyone checking bags or anything, but we all take our chances.
The time to spend is also a hard one.  The trip is so far and you could need adjustment time for jet lag, etc.  We spent 3 weeks without going to Sarawak.  We were 4 nights in Penang and maybe 3 places that we were 2 nights and the rest one night everywhere.  We could have cut out the eco tourism part and done Sarawak instead but...3 weeks we budgeted, a beautiful trip.
We carried the seeds in carry on through security, those guys arenít looking for that stuff.  Coming through customs the seeds stuffed in all our cargo short pockets.  We purposely flew through London with no stop in the US due to the seed issue.  CR doesnít allow seeds but they just confiscate them and give you a scolding, no fine.  And they donít put you on a list either!  We sailed through.😅
Thanks guys, great information! Sounds like it's an ideal destination and requires a good 2 weeks, but well worth it. In the ideal world I would combine with a fruithunting trip to Thailand. Sounds like fruit season in Thailand is may-Jun and Malaysia maybe more Jun-aug, so maybe late june is ideal?

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Malaysia pilgrimage
« on: September 09, 2018, 10:35:06 AM »
Tenom hosts the Borneo agro Park.  We went twice to see this immense collection of fruit trees in production.  The first day we spent about 4-5 hours walking around then went back the next day to have a tour conducted by the fruit tree curator, Mathew Clarence.  We saw so many different trees and were able to collect a lot of seeds.  We saw durio testudinarium flowering, ate an amazing d. Kutejensis.  Collected weird stuff like Nam Nam, got an improved quality of governors plum.  Many garcinias Iíd never heard of, some strange ones with fruit thatís not bad, g. Cambogia. The guy wanted to share and he had some stuff from here that he wasnít sure about.  We showed him how to eat Akee, how to pick Black sapote and Mamey sapote, etc.  What a place!
After Tenom we went to Sipitang which is on the Bay of Brunei.  Sipitang is known for durian and we found the best d. Oxylianus of the trip.  I was looking for a couple of things like baccaurea angulata and some others that we missed but I canít complain.  Probably better to leave something for another trip!
Iím going to post a pic of my son with Clarence and the d. Oxylianus.






Peter: Thanks for the reports; I've been following these and really found them useful/exciting. Seriously. I've been planning a trip to Indonesia and Malaysia hopefully next year. A couple of questions:
1. What's a reasonable amount of time to get to know the entire country reasonably well (including Sarawak which I think you didn't visit). Would 1 week be too short, 2 weeks?

2. Sounds like August is prime time for Durians, but would September or May have good amount of fruits?

3. Do Malaysian customs have any objections to people taking seeds with them out of the country?
4. Did you get to visit any nurseries and do you think it's viable to get grafted plants to be shipped outside Malaysia?

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fruit & Spice park in early Octuber?
« on: August 26, 2018, 06:45:19 PM »
Hi guys, thanks I'm more exited now and with the possibility of getting Durian in Florida,
Federico, thanks I'll like to meet up with you too but due to incompatibility with tour package now is going to be very hard to reach Miami
What I meant is we are focusing mainly in Orlando Area, I want to visit Fruit and Spice park but the logistics of the tour are complicated.
Ok, no problem, the offer is on if you decide to rent a car, I sent you a PM. Un abrazo. F.

17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fruit & Spice park in early Octuber?
« on: August 25, 2018, 09:18:59 AM »
I'm planning a 5/6 day getaway with the family, first choice was Vegas, but then I remembered in LA I could get some nice Monthong in China Town, so I suggested Disney and Orlando LOL, but then I thought of fruit and spice park, will there be still some fruits on the trees that worth the trip over there? Also is there a China town or a place that sells frozen Durian like CA?
Raul, let me know your plans and I'll be happy to meet you in Miami.

18
Hello Friends.

success in the germination of Madan seeds in Brazil.

I'm very happy with that!










Congratulations Alexandre! now we hope to get update on fruit taste soon!

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Black/purple Guava
« on: August 05, 2018, 07:40:55 AM »
That my friend is a Malaysian purple and the one I had grew strongly, looked lovely and produced fruit very well. Unfortunately the fruit quality left much to be desired and the tree volunteered for mulch patrol.I don't have enough space for looks to triumph over substance.
Mike, second that, I've had it for several years and fruit is insipid and tough.

20
I didnt want to start a new thread but if that was the right thing then I can delete this and start one.

I got some scions of the premium Mexican from Raul for grafting.
I kept 3 and passed the rest on to friends.  I put all 3 on G. intermedia.
One browned at the top and is likely a goner.
One stayed green with no change, may still be a take.  Watching.
The third appears to be pushing.  Its early yet, I will keep an eye on it and report progress.
Stoked.  Anyone else has an experience to share?

I grafted several scions from Raul on May2016 (2 years ago). Some on Luc's Garcinias and some on achachairu. About 80% of scions took well and are still fine, but growth has been really slow, just a couple of flushes a year on the grafted scions, much slower than regular luc's garcinia. Only time will tell if grafts produce faster than the ungrafted trees. F.

I grafted a couple from that same batch in 2016 to my in the ground Imbe, and one of the grafts is over 3 feet tall now. My in the ground Imbes are over 10 feet tall so that might be the best rootstock for the Luc's.

very interesting! I have a 3ft imbe in the ground, I'm going to try to graft a piece of Luc's graft growth on the Imbe and try to compare to growth in achachairu. Thanks.

21
I didnt want to start a new thread but if that was the right thing then I can delete this and start one.

I got some scions of the premium Mexican from Raul for grafting.
I kept 3 and passed the rest on to friends.  I put all 3 on G. intermedia.
One browned at the top and is likely a goner.
One stayed green with no change, may still be a take.  Watching.
The third appears to be pushing.  Its early yet, I will keep an eye on it and report progress.
Stoked.  Anyone else has an experience to share?

I grafted several scions from Raul on May2016 (2 years ago). Some on Luc's Garcinias and some on achachairu. About 80% of scions took well and are still fine, but growth has been really slow, just a couple of flushes a year on the grafted scions, much slower than regular luc's garcinia. Only time will tell if grafts produce faster than the ungrafted trees. F.
 

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Burdekin Plum
« on: April 29, 2018, 02:58:22 PM »
Can you sell/ship seeds to the US? Thanks.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: dwarf mulchi ID
« on: March 15, 2018, 05:55:28 AM »
The dwarf mulchi has worked nicely for me.  I like this tiny tree a lot.
On the other hand, I have been growing the giant mulchi for years, I donít really know, 10-15?  And nothing in the way of fruit.  It looks good and the climate should be a match.  Nada!
Peter
Peter: are you getting fruits on the regular (not giant) mulchi? so maybe the giant is an unstable hybrid like Oscar says? Thanks. F.

24
I was reading an IFAS paper on Atemoya in Florida http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg332.  The authors point out noted
 "Atemoya is not graft compatible with pond apple and therefore the use of an interstock is required"

I am trying Atemoya on pond apple and for now it looks like I have a couple of takes but I know they can still fail.
My question is, do any of you know what interstock works?
The authors used "49-11" which they described as " a 'Gefner' atemoya x A. reticulata hybrid"
Does anyone have scions of this hybrid?  or any tested interstock?

I intend to continue trying different atemoya on pond apple but I am open to try using this two step approach to get there.

I know there is a chart on the forum of graft compatibility and will be searching for it all afternoon :)

By the way, all is not lost.  After last years limited success, I started some cherimoya for root stock and some of my graft this year on 1 year old seedlings of cherimoya.

=====================
Found the table
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16673.0

Thanks for the info. Very helpful. Now I understand why my atemoya scions never took on PApple. Right on. F.

25
Hello dear friends and tropical fruit lovers,

Out of love for tropical fruits, I bought a three acre farm in Homstead area though I live in Minneapolis. This land has not been cleared for long time and full of cane grass up to 8 feet. I flew to Miami and started the project to clear the land and ran into lot of challenges every single day being as I am new to the area and don't really know anyone. I was happy to come across this forum .

In the 1 week I was in Homstead, I was able to clear the land, got two bore wells dug, setup irrigation with gas water pump and drip line and planted 30 trees of 11 varieties.  I struggled to dig the holes for the trees. This is one of the main challenges ahead for me. Started digging manually and quickly found out that I can't do much manually, rented a jack hammer in Home depot to break the lime rock but still not much of progress. Can you guys help me with below questions?

1. What is the best and quick way to dig holes? Next time I go to Homstead in April, I am planning to rent a backhoe or an escavator. Which one is better? I am planning to dig 3 feet deep 3 feet wide holes to give more space for the roots surrounded by lime rock. what is the norm here for holes size for fruit trees like mangos, sugar apple, coconut, jakfruit, guava,mulberry, Barboda cherry, jaboticaba, sapote?

As I dig these big holes, I am planning to bring some dirt soil and fill in these holes. Any places to pick the just cheap dirt soil?

2.Also, as i mentioned I had big tall grass. My bush hog broke when I start clearing the grass. So I ended up driving tractor over the grass and let it lay down. I see the grass turning brown and hoping that it will kill part of the grass and it will act as cover. I know this is not long term solution. I am just buying some time. I made holes in the middle of grass and planted 30 fruit tress and had mulch around trees. What are the cheaper option or places to pick mulch or get it delivered. I think I will need a lot of it. I am planning to stay organic , so no chemicals option to kill the grass for me. I am planning to cover with cardboard around trees and mulch on top to at least kill the grass around the trees.

Since I already lay down the grass, what is the option for me to kill the grass and stop it from coming again. If I use rototiller , does that help? or what about disc? or covering landscape cloth?

I would really appreciate your help and guidance to my questions above.

Thanks

My two cents from my personal experience having planted over 400 trees in HS: It can absolutely be done, but it will require a lot of work, machinery and it won't be cheap.
1. Average you have 12-18 inches of soil over  hard-solid limestone. Trenching is ok for vegetables but not for trees.Fruit-tree roots can't grow or attach well in these conditions. You will definitely need 3'x3' (or bigger) holes in the limestone or the trees won't grow or topple over. To make the holes you absolutely need a big backhoe. Assume 10-15 minutes of digging per hole.
2. After you dig the holes you will end up with a hole and a pile of hard white limestone rocks and minimal soil. You will need to truck at least 50% volume of soil to mix with limestone. 
3. This "soil" mixture is ultra-alkaline and very poor. This won't work for many trees. You will need to apply chelated iron and minors 3-4 times per year. Also fertilizers. Over time soil will improve as a result of time and biological agents.
4. IMO you will definitively need irrigation: summers are very wet, but Feb-May can be super-dry and hot. Irrigating small trees is a must until they're bigger. I would plan and put in irrigation according to where you'll be doing the holes. Need a machine to dig trenches for pipes in the hard rock. Need a well.
5. Weeds are probably the same as any other hot area. I use mulch 2X/year around the trees. about 25 cubic yards per acre, I get a 100yd truckload. Need tractor and labor to spread
Again, it can be done, but Hawaii would be 100% easier...

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