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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado tree getting too much water??
« on: June 15, 2018, 02:00:51 PM »
Large enriched mounds with heavy mulch. I put almost everything up on mounds. White Sapote and Avocado get XTRA large mounds. Eventually the perennial peanut will grow in and I will just add thin layers of mulch on top of that for fungal feeding and general health.


Is that avocado tree growing in the mound of wood chips/barks? Or is it growing in a mound of soil but covered with a thick layer of wood chips/barks?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado tree getting too much water??
« on: June 15, 2018, 12:05:16 AM »
This is how I plant mine and my yard doesn't even flood. They really like heavy mulch.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon
« on: June 08, 2018, 03:09:35 PM »
I think the only persimmon Zill grafts is South Florida aka Hudson. It is probably ultra rootbound like every other persimmon I have seen that wasn't purchased bare root. I would give it some more time.

Not sure. They were from a farm.

Surinam Cherry doesn't grow true from seed. I had a Zill Dark seedling that made red fruit. The only way to get a Zill Dark plant is to buy a grafted one.

I have tasted that before. I have also had great fruit without that weirdness.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: JF Annona grafting in Florida
« on: May 31, 2018, 04:13:52 PM »
Fruit looks great, Iím eager to hear your report on the Fruit, especially from the LM 3. Did you have to hand pollinate the LM 3 to get fruit? It would be great to hear from a Floridian on how the LM 3 compares to something like the Dream Annona. Please keep us updated!


I try to get out every night there are flowers and hand pollinate.

Great looking fruits! In Cali, Calostro has the most chewiest flesh of all APs here. And from the cut fruit photo, I could see that the fruit also has some grittiness around the seed alveoles along with some sprouted seeds as well. I was hoping the Florida growing conditions would correct these annoyances.

There was some of those gritty pockets around the seed but it didn't bother me too much. I am excited to try some more during the regular season. I picked some before hurricane Irma hit and they were tasty but things were so crazy around here I didn't really sit down and analyze them.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / JF Annona grafting in Florida
« on: May 30, 2018, 02:21:49 PM »
Calostro seems to be doing well here in Sarasota. I try to get out and hand pollinate when I can but this also seems to set readily on its own. Fruits are tasty and it grows well on my Dream rootstock.

This fruit set after the heavy pruning I did for hurricane Irma. I picked it in early May and it still tasted good despite overwintering and hanging on the tree after it was HEAVILY pruned in Spring.

The La Habra Sun is quite prolific and great flavored.

I have some LM-3s hanging now which I am really excited to try

Also, various other stuff has small fruits or flowers. Anona Dulce, Arka Sahan, Birula, Pink's Mammoth, Big Green......

Thanks Frank! It is exciting to try all this stuff.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Multi-rootstock avocados?
« on: May 30, 2018, 01:59:12 PM »
Double Root

Lula on left Choquette on right

Double Root

Dupuis. I will graft on Miguel in the Fall for cross pollination.

The tree looks pretty good but if you end up planting another avocado I like to plant them on the largest amended mound you can build and then mulch the bejeezus out of it. They really take off. If you can graft just directly plant the seed on the mound and then graft onto the perfect root system in October - April or so. They really take off then.

Avocados like mulch more than most fruit trees.

Avocados go through shedding periods. My Bacon has dropped a bunch of fruit as well. I am not sure if it is anything you are doing a normal reaction. How thick it the trunk?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Suggestions for Avocados & Mangoes
« on: May 28, 2018, 11:11:03 AM »
Josh. Miquel should do well. If you have limited space and want fruit that is the way to go. Now I know of another pollination to Dupuis but now I'm not sure I Think is Hardee for I will have to find out and get back to you next week.

I don't have a Poncho close to my Dupuis, which by the way 1/2 went down from last summers Irma. and the other 1/2 had a lot of broken branches. But it does a great job or Arue and Donni.

Thank you so much!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Suggestions for Avocados & Mangoes
« on: May 26, 2018, 09:40:25 AM »
Not sure why you would want Poncho? Seem like you are top working the tree.
I have it and I don't think is a FL variety does not like our rainy season. I can tell you a virtue it has. Is a B flower, flowers very early and does an amazing job to pollinize early A flower trees. Only makes sense in a commercial environment not sure is it mas sense in a home environment. Is a big tree. Does great helping Simonds, Dupuis and Doni set fruit.

Hi Carlos, what is your recommendation for Dupuis pollinator? I just put one in the ground and I want to add a branch of an early B to help it set fruit since it seems to be shy. I was thinking Miguel but I really don't know.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Haas avocado in SWFL?
« on: April 30, 2018, 10:58:59 AM »
Well my Haas avocado isn't doing that well, but to be fair, it's been absolutely ravaged by deer a number of times.  They strip almost every leaf off of it every chance they get, I finally put a fence around it.

It dropped almost all it's leafs after a cold snap this year, then produced tons of blossoms.  Only 3 fruit have set, but again, the deer also nearly killed the tree - yet again! 

I hear they just don't do too well in my area.  Any truth to this?  If this is the case, I'd rather pull the tree - or top work it???  I guess I'd have to know the root stock to make that decision.

Thoughts?  Will a Haas thrive in Naples, or will it struggle?

Thank you!

That leaf drop is totally normal.

I have recently had a friend buy a regular Hass from a very experienced grower/nursery and he told them that it does well for him in the Redlands. I have always heard the opposite but I guess it worth grafting a branch onto a healthy tree and see how it performs here in Florida.

I know this doesn't help the immediate problem but I have been posting images from my flickr account. When I make a post I just cut out the garbage code they try to post with just the picture. I remember having weird sideways photos with post image that I couldn't get to flip for some reason.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Sapodilla choice
« on: April 13, 2018, 11:47:52 AM »
I ended up yanking my 13 year old makok.

Bahahahahhahahahhahaa!!!!!!! Careful, I heard that leads to vision problems and hairy palms. I thought you were a little bit older than that! Sorry, I couldn't pass that one up.  ;D

Soursops are sensitive to cold WINDS--- wind at about 43-degrees Fahrenheit will kill all the leaves.  The soursop will immediately leaf out again.  Next cold wind--- repeat.  Four or five episodes exhausts the trees buds and carb reserves.  DEAD, without ever getting down into frost territory.

Protected from Wind, soursop can take 2 or more degrees below freezing.

This is very interesting Har. I have reticulata grafted onto muricata only because I was out of rootstock at the time. I wonder if I can stop babying it in the winter since the there aren't any muricata leaves on the plant. The plant is in a pot and I bring it inside. I wonder what temperature the roots go dormant at. The tree is very vigorous and has a nice clean graft union at 2+ years. I have been under the impression that soursop would be a great rootstock for other species in the tropics but maybe it would be worthwhile testing it in a 9b/10a zone.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Red Dacca banana tree ?
« on: April 11, 2018, 10:43:25 PM »
I think red dacca = Jamaican Red = Cuban Red

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Breeding Cherimoyas/Atemoyas?
« on: March 28, 2018, 12:15:31 PM »
Nice! This is one of the more vigorous grafts on my tree. It is putting out flowers right now. I hit it with some fish/seaweed/keyplex micro foliar feeding and broadcast the whole yard with organic 4-3-4, potassium sulfate and sul-po-mag. I am ready for some night hand pollination and some fruit. :)

Here is a picture of the Leo hybrid #3 Fruit in case anyone missed the other thread. The fruit is very bumpy and has a Brix between 24-26% with excellent acid balance. To me personally, I donít care if itís a Cherimoya, Atemoya, Cherisop, Hybrid or whatever. I just really want the fruit to be self fruitful/self pollinating and for it to have excellent Cherimoya like acidity.

I just emailed Leo to see if he can give me additional background information on his Hybrid #3. I would really like to know what he used for the male and female.


Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Lychee grafting experiments
« on: March 28, 2018, 12:11:51 PM »
I believe Julian Lara grafts Emperor onto Brewster. That is the only way to get Emperor to grow down in the Redlands where they plant in limestone and limestone rubble.

I recently went to a lychee lecture with a grower with 30 years experience. He showed some really great pictures of inoculated root systems with Mycostim brand. I haven't used that brand but I use two other brands of mycorrhizae. He also stressed the importance of windbreaks and heavy mulching. He also applies manure and blends up food scraps into a slurry and puts it under the mulch.

If you can find a healthy tree near by I would grab some soil from the root zone and add it to your pots as well.

I have heard of "Sour Mountain Lychee" being used as a rootstock overseas as well.

Nice post!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Breeding Cherimoyas/Atemoyas?
« on: March 27, 2018, 02:23:20 PM »
I grafted some cherimoya scions recently hoping to do the same thing here in Florida and maybe even find a cherimoya that will set a decent crop here. I will have to check my LM-3 branch when I get home and take special care of it. Dream seems to make smallish fruit and I haven't seen a well tendend, tipped, stripped and hand pollinated tree to really evaluate it's true potential. I'll pollinate mine this year but there are so many different grafts on it that it wont be a great reading on it's potential.

I just ate my first La Habra Sun this morning and it was still good tasting even though it was a late winter fruit and I recently pruned the tree and stripped the leaves. It definitely beat the crap out of the insipid late fruit I was eating early this winter from a different tree that I let hold way too much fruit.

When I was there last everything I purchased was on the ground. I don't know if they have a nematode certified area or not if you are trying to do it legit. I don't know if you will be able to sneak potted plants in on an airplane.

They have people that do this stuff as their job. I would just hire someone down there or contact TREC or other growers to possibly get some contact info. I wish my photos were better organized. I have video of the massive tractor rock plowing a veg field. For tree crops they always rip the cross pattern. I wouldn't dig a 3 x 3 hole unless you are trying to start a field grown bonsai business.

I don't know if that's the best strategy. The roots will pretty quickly grow beyond the 1.5' radius (probably within the first), and the feeder roots generally don't go more than a foot deep anyway. So, you'll end up with several hundred cubic yards of rocks to dispose of (roughly 3/4 yard per hole) with little gain.

The X cutting would be better, as it allows feeder roots space to grow (they can follow the X lines). And you don't gain anything by making the holes that deep. A foot to 18 inches would be plenty. Also, I think your best bet is to get soil depth by bringing in tree trimmer mulch.

When I asked Dr Jonathon Crane about this subject a few years ago, he recommended growing sunn hemp and tilling into the soil.

Thanks everyone for all the valuable suggestions. I am going to rent a back hoe and make 3' * 3' holes .

Federico , I will need your help with finding mulch and some guidance on making holes. I will send a message.


Fruit and Spice has large productive trees on limestone. I doubt they get any attention either.

They are extremely productive in the right climate. Remember trees being totally loaded with fruits. Here in Hawaii they are not nearly as productive.

What do you consider the right climate?

Not to answer for him, but all of the info I find says it prefers a somewhat Mediterranean climate - lots of sun, not too much humidity, not excessive rain, doesn't really like "ultratropical" locations.  Loves California and its native Mexico in particular.  But you can still grow it in places like Florida (although not on limestone)

In general, it seems to rather like being treated like a citrus.  Which I guess makes sense, given that it's in the Rutaceae family.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Why are my Lychee leaves yellow?
« on: March 11, 2018, 11:29:01 AM »
As you can see from my below photo, one of my Sweetheart Lychee trees refuses to green up. At first I thought it was lack of water, but heavy watering hadnít changed it. Then I thought it may have been nutrient deficient so I fertilized with 8-3-9 with micros. The thing flushed out like crazy but leaves cane out yellow and never changed to dark green. Canít figure it out. My other Lychee trees are all dark, dark green.

Try doing a soil drench using Sequestrene-138 chelated iron.

That's the stuff.

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