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Messages - Badfish8696

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1
I have only just started using C-35 and most of my comments are based on reading studies. So far C-35 does appear more vigorous than trifoliate. I believe it tends to stay smaller than others due to earlier larger fruit sets, thus always behind in tree size, not because it is slow growing. If you are concerned about tree size, Carrizo is a good option as it is 10-20% larger than C-35. You must also consider that some of the vigorous fast growing rootstocks can produce poor quality fruit. Eureka Lemon and Fukumoto Navel do appear incompatible with C-35 and Carrizo.

This is a good overview of rootstocks:
http://www.crec.ifas.ufl.edu/extension/citrus_rootstock/Rootstock_Literature/Univ.%20CA%20CitrusProdManual%20Rootstock%20Chapter%202014.pdf

If this is for general backyard use I would seriously think about the size the trees will eventually become. Large trees use a lot of water and fertilizer and will produce a ton of fruit that could go to waste. Most trees on anything but Flying Dragon will still reach large size for backyard use. If the trees grow large and start crowding each other you will have to prune which will cut yields because citrus flowers on new growth. The reason I suggested C-35 is that it produces one of the highest yields per area for citrus rootstocks. ie. the yield is the same as Carrizo but on a smaller tree.

2
HLB resistant rootstocks are in the very early stages of research so unless you are willing to wait for years of research to come to fruition you will have to look at standard rootstocks. I am in SoCal and I am using C-35 for my grafts as it is fast growing, early bearing, good size at maturity ie. big but not huge, and widely compatible according to the studies I have read. Most nurseries are moving to C-35 with Carrizo being the other option if you want a large tree at maturity. C-35 bears fruit earlier so you are more likely to get some crops before HLB sets in.

3
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Aphids destroying my Citrus
« on: June 06, 2018, 10:59:05 PM »
Buy some lady bugs, they really do chew through the aphids once you get a decent colony going. I have heard praying mantis are even better but have yet to try them. A container of lady bugs each spring knock down the aphids on my 20+ in ground citrus trees.

4
Just wanted to give people a heads up that Armstrong is now carrying New Zealand Lemonade trees on C-35 rootstock from Hines Growers. I just picked up a nice looking 5 gallon tree, $37 retail. I think some online nurseries may have been offering this variety but this is the first time I have seen it at a big chain in California.



5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Gold Nugget Mandarin Problems
« on: May 09, 2018, 11:50:07 PM »
My Gold Nugget along with most of my citrus is from Durling and on their semi-dwarf rootstocks which in most cases is trifoliate. 12x10 spacing. Pretty happy I made that decision when planting as although I have the room for standard trees, I knew they would get huge and require a lot of water, fertilizer, possible pruning, etc. Even an 8ft diameter tree will require 10 gallons of water per day in the summer. The fact that trifoliate may produce better fruit is a bonus that I did not know when planting. I am going to be planting 16 mandarins that I have grafted onto C-35 soon so it will be interesting to compare. Shiranui, Xie Shan, Miho Wase, USDA 88-2.

6
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Gold Nugget Mandarin Problems
« on: May 09, 2018, 03:09:36 PM »
No problem with Gold Nugget here in SoCal. Mine has been in ground for about 8 years from a 5 gallon tree, it is on trifoliate and is roughly 6-8ft in size, I think it will max out around 10ft. I am about 15 miles inland and get plenty of heat. The fruit is still eating well in May this year, juicy, rich, seedless even interplanted with 15+ other types of citrus. Certainly a great fruit for eating from hand.

7
Thanks Millet, I checked the CCPP online before posting, it is not listed as available for budwood cuttings but I will contact them directly to confirm.

8
Does anyone know of a source in California for this unusual citrus relative?

More info here for those curious...

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/eremocitrus.html

Seems like an intriguing possibility for a drought tolerant ornamental.

9
Citrus General Discussion / Klondike Mandarin Variety?
« on: March 18, 2018, 05:49:11 PM »
Just wondering if anyone knows about a variety of Mandarin called Klondike? I saw this variety at my local Costco listed on a bag of California Mandarins. I did not try them as I have plenty of my own citrus. Was just wondering if it was a new variety or just a name a grower is using for a more common variety.

10
Citrus General Discussion / Re: When to Pick Moro Blood Orange?
« on: March 07, 2018, 08:22:11 PM »
Just picked some and juiced, they are very good, perhaps a bit tart, so by the end of the month they should be even better. The one in the middle was from the south side of the tree where they do not color up on the outside nearly as much. The inside is still pretty red but slightly lighter.











11
Citrus General Discussion / Re: When to Pick Moro Blood Orange?
« on: March 07, 2018, 01:45:24 AM »
Dylan, that is very light for Moro in my experience. I am letting mine hang a bit longer as winter was very warm until recently when we got subtstantial chill hours. Since the chill my Moro fruit has colored up substantially on the outside with a lot of fruit turning very red. Will probably pick some soon and will post a photo if I remember. It does seem like Moro needs some nights around freezing to really color up, which is certainly what happened for me this year. Usually we have at least a handful of nights around freezing so that would explain why my Moros are always a pretty deep red. For what its worth I am inland but only about 15 miles from the ocean.

12
Closest thing for awhile will be the Amoa 8 which UCR will be releasing as budwood soon. It is a cross between Moro Blood and Avana Mandarin, it is seedy. Full profile here:

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/amoa8.html

Not sure when it will be released but it has a much higher chance of happening before Ruby Tango which is for the foreseeable future a private variety. Although we saw what happened with Sumo/Dekopon/Shiranui so there is always a chance.

13
I am very familiar with Durling, most of my trees are from them as they are local to me. Their Satsuma is Owari, I have one planted, it has a drooping spreading habit and the tree took about 5 years in ground to produce killer fruit. I can say with 100% confidence it is Owari as that is the only Satsuma that Durling has offered in the last 10 years. I see their citrus availability list regularly. I would rate Owari as excellent once established but have only just grafted my own Xie Shan and Miho Wase so cannot compare to them. Durling is a great nursery so you should be happy with the tree. They mainly use triofoliate for their semi-dwarfs so your tree is likely on that rootstock. I hope this answers your question.

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: First Frost of the year
« on: February 20, 2018, 07:08:01 PM »
Spoke too soon about the mild winter in the thread I posted the other day. Last night I had significant frost with several hours below 30 and at least two hours below 26. My avocados look terrible, you can see tons of brown spots on leaves, brown stems, black shriveled new growth, wilting blossoms, and just walking through the grove you can smell decaying leaves. Luckily only a few varieties were blooming. I fear the trees will have significant defoliation. So much for that foliar fertilizer application I just did. Have little faith in a bumper crop of avocados this year but we will see.

The citrus are largely fine, minimal damage to some that had a smidge of new growth. Mexican lime has leaf drop as always, though it was blooming prolifically so will probably loose fruit set there.

I am guessing if I had a mango in ground it would have been destroyed by this frost so I am rethinking planting one of those now.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Need help to ID this avacado.
« on: February 20, 2018, 11:19:28 AM »
Gotta be Bacon with how you describe it, especially the watery flavor. Here is a nice description from UCR...

http://www.ucavo.ucr.edu/avocadovarieties/VarietyList/Bacon.html

Here is their full variety list...

http://www.ucavo.ucr.edu/avocadovarieties/VarietyFrame.html

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya / Mango Advice For SoCal (10a)?
« on: February 19, 2018, 01:11:08 AM »
Thanks Simon, yes I am in 10a, I am close to Fallbrook and it has the closest microclimate to mine. The winters do vary, for instance this year has been unseasonably warm and the lowest temp I recorded was 34F. Last year however there was significant chill hours and quite a few nights around 28F. I just checked the USDA map and my average minimum temp is 33.1 F.

I am not sure I have the patience to grow a mango from seed, can you elaborate on why this would be beneficial? The mangos at local nurseries seem like they are seed grow as they will often have two seedlings emerging side by side in one pot.

I will try to do more tasting of cherimoyas before I make a decision. Glad to know the varieties available should be solid in any case.

17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Cherimoya / Mango Advice For SoCal (10a)?
« on: February 18, 2018, 02:25:29 PM »
So I am thinking about putting in some Cherimoya and Mango trees.

I need advice on which varieties to look for that will do well in my area. I am in zone 10a and occasionally see lows in the upper 20s, my soil is well draining, my avocados and citrus are doing very well.

I have been lead to believe cherimoyas are very similar to avocados in their growing requirements. The only variety I have tried is Dr. White which I loved. Some others that seem to be available in my area are Pierce and Booth. Any varieties that stand out or you would recommend? I am probably only going to put in 1 or 2 trees if that factors at all.

I am less confident in mangos as I believe they are much more frost sensitive. The varieties I have had are the common grocery store ones and the champagne/ataulfo. I am looking for a typical mango, preferably with low fiber and small pit that can handle the occasional cold snap. I think Valencia Pride and Ataulfo are the main ones available around me but I am sure others can be found. I can probably find a somewhat protected location close to my house for the mango.

Any advice you could provide on these two fruit trees would be greatly appreciated.

18
Going to try a foliar spray on my in ground citrus and avocados this year. It is an organic product called Acadian derived from seaweed, analysis is 0.1-0.0-5.0. I had to buy 2.5 gallons and it was pretty expensive, looks like soy sauce. The dose is quite dilute so I have my doubts on how effective it will be but why not. I am going to use about 4oz. in about 4 gallons of water for approximately 40 trees. Just tried it out on a handful of trees to make sure there are no adverse effects and then I will apply the rest. I did not use a surfactant, as my fertilizer supplier said it was not necessary. Looks like they recommend every 2-4 weeks through the growing season. Will report back if anything interesting happens.

I am also using an organic dry fertilizer now, the stuff looks and smells like rabbit food. It is from True Organic Products with a 10-2-8 analysis.

Those two combined with yards and yards of mulch will hopefully give me a solid organic solution to my fertilizing needs.

19
Citrus General Discussion / Re: new greenhouse planning
« on: November 05, 2017, 08:54:04 PM »
What about spray foam? I know they sell DIY kits. It does act as a vapor barrier so you wouldn't have to worry about moisture collecting behind it. The R value is very good per inch. It may be a challenge to get a finished look as you would probably have to cut some excess foam to get a smooth finish.

20
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Smith Red Valencia
« on: October 17, 2017, 01:52:10 AM »
Been thinking about this variety as well, my local citrus nursery sells it under the name Red Valencia. At least I am 90% sure it's this variety, there is another variety called Rhode Red Valencia but that is not really a blood, the one they offer is definitely a blood.

Here is what UCR has on the variety:
http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/smithred.html

I am interested in finding out how different it is from Moro and Tarocco Bloods as I have mature trees of those two.

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Will There Be Any Place Left To Grow Citrus
« on: September 19, 2017, 11:21:20 PM »
Funny seeing these dire scenarios mentioned. There is a lot of money in citrus, cures and methods to work around it will be found. The disease has a pretty long cycle, groves are already being planted to early yielding rootstocks with tight spacings. Yield fruit for five years, replant as necessary. Will costs go up? Probably, but make no mistake a solution will be found. This reminds me of the phylloxera epidemic in Europe in the 1800s. They found rootstock immune to the pest. Chances are there is already a natural hybrid of citrus immune to the greening bacteria. Not to mention all of the breeding and genetic research being carried out. If a solution doesn't exist yet we will create one. Citrus is a huge industry with a lot of money behind it. A solution will be found.

22
I am surprised the non-GMO movement hasn't expanded to non-genetically mutated organisms. This would apply to citrus like Tango mandarin, Ruby Red / Rio Red grapefruit, etc. that have been irradiated to induce seedlessness. I don't see a whole lot of difference between the two so it is interesting that there are a whole lot of mutated organisms out there, especially grains. Many of these are found in organic products. So many contradictory perceptions out there.

23
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Wonderful Halos
« on: April 10, 2017, 07:08:42 PM »
I have never heard the name Nadorcott but have always known Tango to be an irradiated selection of W. Murcott Afourer. I thought this was common knowledge. The UCR descriptions of these varieties have always stated their connection. I don't really understand why there was a lawsuit over this, Tango is obviously an improved modfiied selection of W. Murcott Afourer or no one would be growing it. Here are the descriptions:

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/wmurcott.html
http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/tango.html

When did Nadorcott come into use as a name for W. Murcott Afourer?

24
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Best mandarin recommendations?
« on: April 09, 2017, 11:25:26 PM »
Gold Nugget, Tango, Pixie, Kishu, and Yosemite Gold are the ones I would recommend. You won't be able to swing Dekopon/Sumo unless you graft your own tree.

25
UCR has a finger lime available through their budwood program, it is this one...

http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/microcitrus_australasica_3672.html

Not sure if you are looking for a specific one or what but the cost should be affordable, they charge $2.50 per bud for out of state buyers.

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