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Messages - shaxs

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: September 16, 2019, 06:22:36 PM »
I spent the weekend ripping out out some old bushes and ivy and then building a new trellis for the dragon fruit. I got some cuttings from spaugh and they have taken off pretty well. I will be potting them up in 25 gallon containers before moving to the trellis.












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Is it a really firm pear?

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Temperate Fruit Discussion / Best low chill pear for Southern California
« on: August 22, 2019, 10:07:48 AM »
I live in coastal Southern California. We get 200 to 250 chill hours a year. I am looking for a low chill pear to plant in my backyard. I prefer a more soft flesh than a crisp one. Looking online I was thinking maybe the pineapple pear would be for me. I will need it also keep it pretty small by summer pruning. I'd like to keep it under 10 ft total. Do you have a pair that you would recommend?

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Potted up my Pickering today:




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The 5 gallon should be perfect. You might have to re pot in a month or two but it will grow better than growing directly in a giant pot. The worm casting tea will be great. Wait until you see the roots before using the Dyna Gro.

You can pot your tree and if the roots are fine and you donít see any wilting about a week or two after potting, it should be safe to use fertilizer. If your tree is showing any signs of wilting, do not fertilize.

Since you just received your tree, you should gradually acclimate it to full sun.


Simon

Thank you for the feedback. I will up-pot tomorrow :)

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Youíve got the right idea. Give it a fast draining soil mix with slow release fertilizer. Potted Mangos will perform much better if given occasional applications of minors and trace, especially Iron, Zinc, Magnesium and Manganese.

Donít over pot it, put it in a container that is slightly larger than its root mass. Once it fills in that pot with roots, up pot again with a slightly larger pot again.

In SoCal, mangos do most their growing in the the heat of the summer so you need to maximize growth between June-September by ensuring they are properly fertilized.

Right now is prime vegetative growing season for Mangos but since you just received your tree, you have to be very careful with over fertilizing. If you donít disturb the roots much, you can use a mild fertilizer but if the plant was rootbound and you have to trim the roots, donít fertilize it until it settles in.

This time of year, Mangos are very resilient with very little signs of diseases because the heat pushes growth and the growth out competes the fungal diseases and die back.

Now is also a great time to graft.

Unlike growing Mangos in Florida and other prime mango growing areas, you want your branches as vertical as possible.

One of the big mistakes SoCal mango growers do is to bend their branches horizontally. Horizontal growth will tend to flower and we donít want that for young non established trees. Vertical growth has a slight less tendency to flower but only slightly. Everything you can do to tilt the growth towards vegetative growth instead of blooms will be that much better for your tree.

Simon

I have 5 gallon containers I can use now. It would be *maybe* twice the size of the rootball. I also have some Dyna Gro I have been using on other plants: https://dyna-gro.com/product/liquid-grow/ I could use that now as well. And some worm tea as well.

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I got this beautiful Pickering on Friday. What tips can anyone give me on container mangoes in SoCal? I was going to put it in a 10 gallon fabric pot and use BX Promix (https://www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-bx-mycorrhizae/) with osmocote. Will that work well for a mango?



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You donít need to damage the husks by using a knife to pry them open. Just find the ďfiberyĒ part that runs  along the length of the husk, is you use your fingernails (or butter knife) and scrape along that fiber, you can usually find a small opening in the husk. Once I find that small opening/hole, I can usually jut pull the husk apart and open with my fingers without ever having to insert a knife into the husk.

I use a butter knife to scrap all the pulp off and try to pry it open. I guess I will have to look more closely for an opening. Can't seem to find one. I have been using a new method of taking some vice grips on the edges to squeeze and create an opening along the edge then using the butter knife to split open.

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Iíve sprouted plenty of damaged seeds. Iíd just plant them and see what happens.

Simon

Thanks Simon. Already planted 😄

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I damaged 2 of the 3 seeds trying to get them out. I assume these are too damaged to germinate?












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Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Red rover passionfruit plant
« on: July 23, 2019, 07:10:39 PM »
The purple possum is very similar to red rover.  Once you get it going and have some decent size branches I can send large cuttings to graft if you want to try that.

Wait...you can graft passionfruit?

I havent done it but yes you should be able to graft it pretty easily.  Most plants can be grafted.

I just watched some YouTube videos. This opens a lot of possibilities :)

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Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Red rover passionfruit plant
« on: July 23, 2019, 12:26:21 AM »
The purple possum is very similar to red rover.  Once you get it going and have some decent size branches I can send large cuttings to graft if you want to try that.

Wait...you can graft passionfruit?

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I found a Manila mango Tuesday at Home Depot and will grow out some Kent seeds as well.





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Yes of course, theres no husk in that photo.  Eat the mango, dehusk, toss in pot of dirt.

Thanks, I have 6 organic mangoes from Costco. Just checked and they are kent from mexico that were hot water treated. Hopefully they should work.

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Its not necessary to do anything special with mango seeds.  Just plant them in a pot or in ground under 1" of soil and keep the dirt wetted. 

Just lay it flat like this and then cover with 1" dirt.  A week later you have new trees.






Do you take them out of their husks?

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Is there a good write up or guide for starting mango seeds?

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I have a purple possum (or fredericks cant tell yet) that I bought at 6ft tall in a pot. Its still growing and putting out flowers and I hand pollinate. I mean really hand pollinate. If you just gently use a motion like picking a penny up off the floor to get pollen on your finger tips then run your fingers along the stigma, you can pollinate a flower in a manner of seconds. Been working really well for me.

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Shax, if you want a smaller or container mango tree, a Florida tree can be fine for you. If you get a Florida tree, you can also use it for scions to practice grafting.

Ammoun, the lazy way to feed seedling trees is to use a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote, Osmocote Plus, Nutrikote or something similar that feeds over several months. The slow release fertilizers are especially suited for container growing because regular fertilizers get flushed from the soil very rapidly.

Right now is a great time to fertilize our mango trees to maximize growth during these critical four months between June and the end of September where our Mango trees do most of their growing.

Simon

Thank you Simon. I got a Sweet Tart and will wait for the LeVerne mangoes to come to Home Depot to experiment with grafting.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: July 02, 2019, 05:28:18 PM »
We just got done up-potting the dragon fruit cuttings we got from @spaugh last year. Finally seeing some growth.






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They're seedlings. My guess is 12-18 months.

Are these seedlings from seed or rooted cuttings? I was really hoping cuttings as they fruit a lot quicker than seedlings. If they are seedlings, how long until they bare fruit?
I' will still take some. Will PM you.

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Iíve had a bad experience with TT. I order most my trees from Plantogram.com

I would actually recommend against purchasing a grafted tree wether it be on Florida or seedling rootstocks. If you purchase a grafted tree, it will grow very slowly because it is grafted with mature, fruiting scion wood. It will spend 6+ months out of the year trying to flower and hold fruit.

If you want a dwarfish or small container sized tree, a grafted tree will be fine as the flowering/fruiting will naturally keep the size of the tree in check.

If you read through the earlier posts in this thread, you will know that Florida Turpentine rootstock does not perform ideal over here in Southern California. The Florida rootstock trees get extremely droopy and requires significant effort in staking up the branches. The Florida trees also seem more susceptible to gummosis and Phomopsis dieback.

The more vigorous varieties like VP, LZ, Sweet Tart do perform ok on Florida rootstock but the trees on LaVern Manilla perform much better.

Itís better if you plant a bunch of Kent, Haden, Ataulfo, or whatever mango seeds you can get your hands on and just let them grow for about 3 years before topworking the trees.

Simon

I have very little room for a planted tree. Maybe 1 or 2 spots if I remove other bushes. I was going to attempt these in containers. I was thinking to plant the LaVern Manilla in ground as my rootstock and getting the Sweet tart for a container. I have extra space that is concrete where I have a lot of my potted figs.

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LaVern Manilla should be available in the local nurseries like Home Depot in about a month or so. LaVern Manilla is a proven rootstock for SoCal but it should only be used as a rootstock as the fruit are inferior in most cases.

I order my Sweet Tart scions from Squam256. Occasionally, I’ll harvest scions from my own trees but they are usually not in the proper stage of growth.

Simon

Would it be advisable to buy a 3 gallon sweet tart from top tropicals?

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I still think that if you haven't tried a superior (or any) cherimoya cultivar, that should come first.

I have never tried a cherimoya before. I'll look into it.

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Guys, I am going to Orange County for the weekend, anyone have any suggestions on which nursery to visit? Thank you very much!!

I really like Plant Depot in San Juan Capistrano.

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