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Messages - 911311

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California has a special program (CCPP) where you can have budwood mailed there, and they will test it to make sure it doesn't have greening disease and propagate it, and then you can eventually have them send budwood. That might be the safest way. It's not too expensive.

 Thank SoCal, it's good to know this.

>I will probably try to sneak some scionwood into the US.< 

911311, that sentence says a lot about your character.

 Lol you should not judge anyone here about their character. This forum is not designed for judging each other. As a mod you should know this. Think about it and look at your judgement.

3 will soon have seedless yuzu available on their webpage. This seedless yuzu is not a special tree for collection. They are very cheap and so common in Japan. If I have a chance to get back to my country, I will pay a visit to Japan and buy several nice citrus varieties overthere to multiply them in my homeland. I will probably try to sneak some scionwood into the US.

   These citrus might only be rare to those selfish collectors in US and the Europe. There were bunches of excellent citrus varieties in Asia to be considered. Nothing special about citrus to be collected. No body cares, and no body praise for the possession of such citrus trees.

They are available in the US...

 Really? May you please share the secret place to buy it from?

Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Wanted: yuzu
« on: June 08, 2019, 10:00:11 AM »

   There were several types of seedless yuzu but not available in the US. If we have the seedless variety, why should we go for the extremely seedy one?


   I have been searching many places online within the US for seedless yuzu but no hope yet. If I found a reliable place to buy I would post it up here so everyone can go get one.


  I've checked everywhere in the US but could find a seedless variety of yuzu. The normal seedy yuzu is now everywhere but it was impossible to find it outside of Japan. I am happy with the less seedy yuzu as well.

  I would appreciate so much if someone find me a place to purchase one.

 Thank you very much

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Graft chimeras and hardy citrus
« on: January 18, 2019, 10:30:20 AM »
Bye hardy citrus. Don't waste time on something impossible. Enjoy something that is tangible. Grow something that we can eat while we are still young. No space in garden for stupid hardy citrus.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: January 11, 2019, 10:53:20 PM »


Temperate Fruit Discussion / List of best rootstock for jujube?
« on: January 07, 2019, 10:03:43 AM »
  Does anyone know any best dwarf rootstock for jujube?





My experience with high crafting is a bit mixed up. I have a Citrumelo, a Citrandarin and Chimera Prague high crafted at 120 cm. The stem of Citrumelo (dm 3cm) was severelydamaged by rind cracks. Cracks were only to be found on Poncirus-stem. Cirumelo parts were completely okay. I think it was exposed to the sun. The other stems were not harmed at all. Citrumelo recovered and bloomed late but plentyful. Last flowes in Dec.

  Cool, I think high graft on FD is safer when the tree is still young. I plan to reduce size all my trees using FD rootstock because it is much easier to cover the entire canopy by plastic bags. I think we better water the entire tree before cover it as well as paint lower trunk to protect from insects and cold air. Thank you for your opinion.

  Trees that don't go dormant in winter will usually go frozen because of the water inside the tree trunk. I am not sure if it's gonna work if we use dark color water-base paint to cover the tree trunk on winter, as well as using a clear plastic bag to cover the entire canopy on coldest nights and days. As far as I know if we cover the entire canopy by a clear plastic bag, the temperature inside and outside of that bag will be at least 10 degrees in difference provided that the freezing won't last for too many days.

  We can also add a light bulb to ensure, but I think if we plant our citrus trees against the southern or Eastern wall of the house, they will be okay. Someone has tried this method and their lemon tree made it through many winter in zone 6a.

  Oh I forgot about the rootstock. If we use Poncirus Trilofliate we don't have to worry about the root if it was old enough. I think we better use the FD Poncirus to reduce the size of our citrus tree. Don't worry too much about those discourage you not to grow citrus at your zone.  No one has the right to kill your hobby. Go for it. Do experiment and experience it yourself.

  My unknown 7 month-old lemon seedlings (grown in small plastic pots from lemons fruit bought from store) has amazingly survived the previous 25F for 1 night and continued below 32F for several days after then back to 27F, but they only died back about 1/2 top of the the plants on the end of November 2018. They are still alive healthily with no further damage even when the tempt dropped down to 25 again on Dec-06-2018.

  I could not believed they did not die out completely as I thought they should have because I totally forgot to bring them inside on those freezing days. They did not grow or recover with any new leaf but the trunk look fine with about 4 to 5 healthily green leaves left on each seedling. I left those pots outside at a windy site in my backyard with no protection at all.

  I will take pictures probably tomorrow when have time.

My Thomasville is one of my oldest citrus trees, planted 6 or seven years ago. It has reached 10 feet tall once and Iíve tried different methods of passive protection to help it and other poncirus hybrids survive winters. It has lost wood and height by half and twice has died down to the ground but has come back from the roots. Although it it currently two feet tall, alongside a citradia, it has outlasted every other ďhardy ď citrus Iíve tried to grow outside here without enclosing it in a plastic tent with a space heater. Iíve replaced Swingle, Dunstan, citradia, rusk, mortan, nansho dai dai, many Ichang lemons, Changsha, twice and all have died completely, but this one Thomasville keeps coming back. Last winter I finally took down the high tunnel I had built over my line of citranges/hybrids and just let the few I had left succumbe to winter; all died but the Thomasville and my last citradia came back from the roots. Iím now foolishly protecting them like I do my fruiting grafted satsumas with small space heaters on thermo cubes under plastic domes when freezing temps arrive. I know now they will never get tall enough to bloom unless I build a 15-20 ft tall frame around them, but I respect their resilience and want to preserve the citradia since I canít obtain another specimen from anywhere. Woodlanders no longer carries them.

 Oh, that was sad to be in zone 6b. I admired your great passion on citrus. Do you have any plan to move southward to another state like Florida...?



  Some souce claimed that Marumi Kumquat can withstand 10F and start to lose leaves at 0F without injury. Is it a myth?

    Does anyone have an idea of which variety of citrus or citrus hybrid would go dormant in winter?

    Poncirus trifoliata
    Marumi Kumquat  (lose leaves at 0F but not sure if considered dormancy)
    Thomasvilles citrangequat?
    Keraji mandarin?
    Sanford curafora?

My thomasville and citradia and dunstan survived last winter unprotected but mortan, rusk, nansho dai dai, Ichang lemon all died unprotected.

 how old was your Thomasville? Did it get any injury?

Oh really, pocirus seedlings die oout due to freezing? Thank you for the info, now I know why there were very few seedlings around the mature Poncirus trees. Probably most of the  could not make it through a normal winter in northern part of GA.

SoCal2warm, do you have Sanford curafora seeds?

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