You are right Behl!

Annona branches pruned off and thrown on the ground in the winter will bud out in the spring--- so your having grafted some of it can end up being entirely irrelevant.

All the reasons given by Adam are also valid.

There is another reason often overlooked--- expectations of magic  --- if the roostock doesn't have a big fat seed full of stored up food, and you go and cut all the leaves off the roostock, what is the poor thing going to live off.  [And remember, fertilizer is not "plant food", it is just nutritional mineral supplements, none of which are an edible source of energy (carbohydrates, lipids, or proteins.]  Roots starve first, or get too weak to fend off rots.

Yes, there are different wooly-leafed white-sapotes.  They are sometimes listed as a separate species, tetramera, but actually are just trees with a recessive trait, which occasionally show up from seeds of regular white-sapotes--- at least so I hear.

Looks good enough!  If the cambium layers are matched--- that I can't see under the tape. 

When sliding a wedge shape into a slit, as in top cleft grafting, the scion should be slightly thicker than the roostock, or it should be off-center or even crooked.

I don't know how mamey-sapotes do with salt spray.  [In Belize some sapodillas grow in the sea.] 

In Yucatán, mamey-sapotes withstand prolonged dry seasons annually, on shallow clay soils over limestone rocks, with the water table probably well over 50 feet down in most places.  I don't know what the air humidity levels run there.  We were not discussing desert plants.

Recently we have had several drought years here in south Florida, with little rain from November thru June.  My sandy yard is 27 feet above the water table.  I don't have an irrigation system, and sporadically water plants that look stressed.   Many plants and trees have died in my yard, but all the ones I listed (except for mamey-sapote and carissa, which I observed elswhere) are doing just fine, some with no rain or irrigation for two months.

I did not list soursop, which has needed frequent extra waterings.  I also did not list Rollinia deliciosa (mucosa) which do not survive for me unless grafted on drought- hardy rootsock.  Sugar-apples just barely hold on.

Carissa (Natal-plum)
Carambola (once well-established)
Dovyalis hybrid
Pitomba-de-Manaus (Talisia esculenta)
Pitomba-da-Bahia (Eugenia luschnanthiana)
Soncoya (Guanabanus purpureus, aka Annona purpurea)
Mountain-Soursop
Santo Domingo-Apricot (Mammea americana)
Leucaena legumes
Urrucum or Lipstick Tree or Annato (Bixa orellana)
Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)
Canistel
Acerola
Brazilian-Marmelo (Bunchosia species)
Chocolate-Pudding-Fruit (Diospyros digyna)
Siricote or Geiger-Tree (raw fruits not good, but delicious stewed with sugar, like figs)
Ilama (Annona diversifolia)
Mamey-Sapote
Dwarf Ambarella
Taperebá (Spondias species)
Pitanga
Coco-Plum
Jakfruit
Inga species (Cotton-Candy-Pod)

Name it 'Behl'!

The 'Smathers' is a wooly-leaf white -sapote.   Quite large fruit, and delicious.

It is probably from a land-race(?) of Sugar-Apple known locally there as "injerto", which should mean "graft", but in this case doesn't.  The pulp-to-seed ratio is high, the fruit is large, the skin is tougher, and the skin color is often reddish, and the flavor can vary by season from delicious to chalky.  They may be natural hybrids with custard-apple.

The 'M-1" that I bred a lot with was one of these.

Green Leafhoppers (I believe, Potato Leafhoppers.).  It doesn't take many to induce toxicity.

Oscar,
That grafting trick of piece of mature wood onto immature plant sounds intriguing, for "hormonal" influence.  I have occasionally observed clear hormonal influence, but always on one or two plants in several hundred in a nursery.

I wish I had had mycorrhizae to use whenever several of us were bringing seeds back from the Amazon region in the late 1980's and early 1990's, as most of those species never survived here.  They are known to be co-dependent with mycorrhizae in the tropical rain forest.

On the other hand, species that are already being grown just fine in conventional nursery soil mixes and mineral salt fertilizers, usually are not going to benefit from inoculation until they are potted out into way less easy-living circumstances, preferably though, with lots of leaves to rot on the ground, as in the forest.

At Zill High Performance Plants, in the late 1990's, we were given a fine mix of mycorrhizae to try.  I did comparison trials with 16 kinds of plants, each with about 20 plants treated, and 20 plants untreated.  We watched them for six months (If one waits too long the plants get sold right out of one's experiment.).  No difference was visible between the treated and untreeated plants of 14 of the kinds of plants.  With two kinds, the treated plants were all slightly smaller than the untreated.

The latter result is easy to explain.  In a symbiotic relationship, both parties provide a benefit to the other.  In this case, whatever pre-digested nutrients the mycorrhizae provided to the plant roots were not needed, but the mycorrhizae did need the glucose provided by the photosynthezing leaves of the plants.  Not all the glucose provided to the fungi was really extra for the plants, which had to make do with a little less.

Wonderful thread--- has me salivating.

Harry,
If it had fewer seeds, it might not taste as good.  Seeds are thought to exude growth regulators that affect the surrounding pulp, including intensifying flavor.
Although some seedless watermelons seem about as good as seedy ones, seedless sugar-apples are definitely not as tasty as seedy ones.