What's fascinating is the difference in types of plant material cold to warm regions.  For example, you wouldn't dare plant a deciduous tree between April and August any where in Texas.  Late fall is the best time to plant evergreens and deciduous trees like pome fruits.  The botanical strategy is the more time you have between the time you planted during the cool/cold weather (while the "dormant" tree is setting a rootstock) and the heat of summer the better.

What's weird is that they are bullet proof during summer but very easy to kill if transplanted during the cooler months (even when well irrigated).

I assume that is due to root rot pressures regarding mango.  I planted 4 of baby oak varieties (burr, chinkapin, shumardi red, Monterrey live oak)  in the winter in 2005, about 40 in all, in our clay muck due to the never ending rains and they're now stately 25' trees with 14" trunks that shade my property.  Here's a shot I took yesterday morning upstairs showing lightning thru some trees.

Have checked ebay and done searches on Google.  Stock is either pricey, too small for grating, or both.

Thanks,
Mark 

Ya can't argue with success, way to go!

See the Haden I transplanted last year. Your tree is a baby compared to this one. We hacked every leafing branch off and dug a good root ball. Transplanted it and every other day for the first 30 days I drained a 55 gallon drum of water mixed with Super Thrive onto the base of the tree. The two photos show the tree’s recovery not even 10 months later. Didn’t show one sign of stress at any point. IMO mango trees are amongst the easiest trees to transplant. For me, Mamey is the most difficult

I'm on the fence regarding prevailing thought of removing a lot of top to balance it with the root loss.  Assuming it's to help prevent dehydration you're also removing the very food mechanism the plant uses to produce new tissue.  I also don't top a tree when I plant it in the ground whether it be bare root or out of a pot.

Good advise.  I have two of the Gel packs on their way with an Amazon order.  Will try different methods.  Hopefully someone will gift me with some seedlings big enough to graft to.  We get a lot of folks who bring 100's of bags of scions and pots of every kind of fruit you can imagine, seedlings, cuttings, seeds, etc. at the Austin and Houston scion exchange meetings.

Speaking of figs, they're big here.  One lady is bringing some rare French variety from cuttings she started.  Stuff like that......

So you don’t think the tree will servivied.

No.  Didn't word it quite right but for me I don't think it's worth the risk of failure much less breaking your back.  Your cost for trees bought locally must be very low too.  We get the same mangos from the same sources as you guys and a 3 gal. from Houston's JRN nurseries is $35 for example.  A bit more in Corpus Christi and south.

If you must......... remove all fruit and flowers and get as much root mass as you can. 

A 5-6" tree trunk is a big ass trunk without a good tree spade.  You'd have pretty good success if the tree girth was say......1/2" to 1".  If it was mine I'd spray with a copper fungicide a couple of days before digging.

Is this for novelty? I can't see any advantage over starting seeds. Cherimoya roots are delicate and spindly enough as it is.

No, it's because of an emergency as I should be getting scions in the mail tomorrow.  An Ace in the hole thingie.  I'm hoping folks will gift me some decent seedlings as promised, big enough to graft to at our upcoming Austin scion exchange meeting. Lost all my seedlings in my recent freeze.

I have seeds germinating but am a good 2 years away from doing anything with them.

So I need to dig up a mango tree . Should I cut back some of the branches? What the chance it’ll will 
Survived  ? The  tree truck is about 5 to 6 “  at the root.

Thanks

NO way.  Not worth the grunt or the risk which is slim to none IMO.

Hmm, I have a Marcus Pumpkin I just found and bought.  Maybe I'll eliminate all but one or two fruits after it gets established to try and grow a giant.

Anybody eaten one of the MP?  We have a nurseryman in the valley (along the Mexican border) that swears by it, says it's the best.  Down there by comparison it's W. Indies X Guat. hybrids, not Cali types.

The products I mentioned are not "organic."  If your tree is not going to be productive because it is dying, certification for organic production is mute.

Great point Har.  Sometimes our aspirations take over common botanical sense resulting in financial losses.  It doesn't have to be.

Marley, do and use whatever you can to save the tree....and keep it to yourself.     You could be applying Magnabon CS2005 both as a foliar spray and soil drench.  Like I said before it is OMRI certified organic FWIW.

Case in point.  You know I got hit with 18F.  Well guess what, my Reed avocado (a frost IN-tolerant pure Guatemelan race) is pushing green foliage all over the place.  All my citrus is green and everyone who grows citrus knows key lime is not hardy.  Not only is the key lime tree alive but the grafts (tall branches now) of orange, persian lime and lemon on it are alive.  Why?  I think in part because I staved off root and other tissue rot thanks to a foliar spray of copper 2 days before the freeze hit and then 2 days after the freeze I applied a strong soil drench of copper, this time Phyton 35, same copper chemisty.  I'll worry about the small stuff like soil microbial health later.  Right now my focus is on saving my stock at ANY cost.

Yes, get the mulch off the tree.  That trunks needs air circulation.

Good luck amigo!

Mark

Does moro ever get sweet? The ones I've tried are all really tart and the data I've seen say 10% brix and >1% acid.

My Moro gets real sweet and takes on a fine complex spiciness.  It was not very good until the tree got some age so be patient.  Also I let mine have a lot of hang time.  Come March and they're prime.

Cotton Candy from Florida. It was recently planted into my raised bed and I’m using it for scions and for seeds. It’s flowering heavily at about 2.5 feet tall and just as wide. The branches are weighed down with the weight of the blooms.

So far, the blooms are setting fruit with no evidence of any fungal diseases.



Simon

Amazing!  And if the branches hold fruit well like Frank noted that's even better.  Before the freeze I also noted that Cotton Candy tended to be much more compact than the other 7 on the same tree with short internode.  Compare that against the most vigorous and lanky, Pineapple Pleasure, which had very long internodes.

If you run it non stop it will be so foggy you will not be able to see in there.  And you will have water on everything. Trust me on this you will need to get a humidistat to throttle it back. 

This is the one I use and it keeps the humidity at 40%

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FQKXRXA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519155758&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=humidistat&dpPl=1&dpID=41p3jLw61%2BL&ref=plSrch

Thanks for the link.  Yes, I'd put it on a stat.  BTW, Axeon recommends a poly-phosphate pre-filter especially if your water is high in Ca and Mg bicarbs.  It would extend the life of your R/O membranes.