mangos from seed is an uncertain business.

there are two classes of seeds - monoembryonic and polyembryonic. 

monoembryonic seeds grow into a new tree with unpredictable traits.  they are the result of sexual reproduction (pollenated flowers) and have a combination of traits unique to that individual plant - growth habit, fruit quality and quantity, disease resistance, blossoming time and ripening of crop, etc.  passing through the sexual process "spins the genetic roulette wheel." 

polyembryonic seeds can produce several plants from one seed.  generally, one of these is the result of pollenization, and the others are clones (genetically identical) from the parent tree.  it is not always easy or even possible to determine which is which without dna analysis.

the only way to get predictable results is to plant a tree that was produced by vegetative reproduction (usually grafting).

each sexually produced seedling will be a new adventure, most of them failing to measure up to their pedigreed parent, but it is important to remember that all of the prized pedigreed varieties started out as a new seedling.

good luck!

tired of waiting for your nanners to ripen?  eat them green


two cups sliced green bananas
two eggs
honey or other sweetener to taste
your favorite spices (cinnamon? nutmeg? other?)

put it all in a blender and mix until smooth

you can adjust the consistency with a little milk.  you may need a little trial and error here to find what's right for you.  i like mine thin.

cook like pancakes on an oiled griddle

garnish with powdered sugar, fresh fruit, whipped cream, whatever

enjoy

i just invented a cool treat.  midnight guava breakfast

2  eight inch diameter common pancakes (recipe on the bisquick box)

cream cheese sauce

1/2 pack of creamcheese, 1/4 stick of butter.  nuke it a minute in a coffee cup, stir 'till smooth

guava marmalade (latino grocery) or ho-made

put first pancake on a plate, and while the second pancake is cooking, spread half of the cream cheese sauce and a couple tablespoons of marmalade.  when second pancake is done, put it on top and repeat'

to die for!  i wonder if a layer of bacon in the middle would help?

b

i spent six years in ft myers in the '60s and '70s.  i agree that almost anything can be grown there without much danger of frosts or freezing.  anyplace that has an expanse of water to the north and west of it has additional protection from cold snaps which usually come from those directions.  cold winds blowing over water have their coldness moderated.  i particularly like the suggestion of pine island.  out of much of the city congestion, easier to find something larger than a postage stamp city lot, water to the north and west, but close enough to the city for those occasions when you need a city - libraries, airport, shopping, etc.

...and i thought my greenhouse was crowded. 

Quote from: treefrog on October 12, 2015, 02:42:38 PM

b.s.,

is there an echo in here?

Huh??

a) please re-read your prior two posts on this thread.

b) open the dictionary and read the definition of "redundant."

we heard you the first time.

Quote from: TREESNMORE on April 17, 2015, 02:50:59 PM

One with no worms.

No such thing in Florida.

no such thing in SOUTH florida

test

pachira aquatica - malabar chestnut likes wet feet.  pachira glabra is shorter stature.

when i edit to fix a typo, i get both the old and the new as separate posts.  probably something i'm doing wrong.

i should add, the holding tank doesn't have to be IN the greenhouse, or in any particular place.  it's the ELEVATION that counts, you can run piping back and forth, but remember, a long way away means a lot of pipe (expense) and more friction (lower flow rate). 

the roof drain discharge must be highest.
the take-off for the irrigation system should be lower than the overflow outlet. 
the takeoff point should be higher than the piping in the irrigation system.

the 3/4" pvc system isn't glued together.  it's just slip-fit.  that way, it's easily rearranged.  it's a low pressure system, and if it leaks a little, no problem, an irrigation system is supposed to distribute water.  actually, there is very little leakage.

i have a 500 gallon plastic tank in my greenhouse.  it acts as a heat sink for the green house and holding tank for emergency water in case the well pump goes down.



the roof gutters from the front side of my house drain into it.   when it is full, the overflow is piped (upper right) outside.   just before the overflow exits the greenhouse, there is a pipe that diverts the flow into a 3/4" pvc pipe system that runs just above head high around the perimeter of the greenhouse, with a few cross pieces.

 


at appropriate places i have drilled small holes in the 3/4" pvc.  i have drilled lots of holes, and where i no longer want water, i stick a round wooden toothpick in the hole.  i also have a battery powered timer that runs well water into the tank for ten minutes every third day, in case it doesn't rain.

Thanks Fang, maybe it's the slow release fertilizer I've recently started using. They were growing even slower before the fertilizer. By the way, how do I take suckers? Can I just pluck them off and pot them?

Simon

 
for ratoons, (root suckers) i loosen the soil with a spading fork, then reach down and gently pull up the sucker.  stem suckers, i just snap them off.  slips at the bottom of the fruit i bend them downward.  they almost fall off by themselves.  i stick them in some moist, sandy soil with a lot of organic matter.  so far, that's worked every time.



as an extra trick, a pineapple can be made to send off a lot of suckers before it fruits.  i had a pretty good size kona sugarloaf in a one gallon pot from the nursery.  i let it fall over behind some banana trees in 25 gallon tubs, and didn't get back to it for a couple months.  it had twelve suckers on it!  large, medium, and small.