Quote from: CA Hockey on September 26, 2017, 01:42:40 AM

Mark, what is your keyplex spraying regimen? I sprayed a few months back. I thought I followed the directions and diluted appropriately but a part of me still felt I was using too much. I sprayed anyways. Got a lot of damage to my plants. Lots of dark black spots, esp on fruits (citrus especially). Looked like small cigarette burns.

Am bit lazy (and careful) so I use it as a soil drench.  I've found many products will burn young tender foliage.  Let them mature to a medium green rather than early on as a yellowish/green leaf.   I wouldn't go more than about a teaspoon per gallon and make sure you add a non-ionic surfactant to the mix, like 1/2 - 1 tsp/gal.

As my greenhouse construction progresses I'm starting to think about soil.   I intend to plant trees directly into the ground inside my greenhouse.  My soil is clay but not too hard - the topsoil crumbles under hand pressure.  The dirt on my greenhouse floor is loose right now because it is recently excavated from the foundation trench.   I have an opportunity now to amend it, and/or shape it to affect drainage.   Any suggestions? 

• Doing nothing at all may be a viable option.  The clay drains poorly, but as I will have full control over how much water goes inside, I'm not sure if this is a real concern or not.   
• Mix in a large amount of mulch or some other organic matter and roto-till it in?  The greenhouse is 18'x32' so it would take ~10cu yds to fill 6in deep. 
• Mix in a large amount of perlite or sand to improve drainage?  But it would still be clay underneath so unless I shaped it to drain to the edges I don't see it making a difference other than perhaps improving root penetration.   Also I read that adding sand to clay is a bad idea unless you add a massive amount of sand. 
• Just add mulch on top, and renew every year or two and let it works its way down over time. 
• Create mounds or rows and plant trees there, perhaps with amended soil or 4x4 wood boxes to create "raised beds" that drain to the sides

Xie Shan is seedless.

I heard from a friend of his that Buddinman had a stroke about a month ago.

Phil, in south Texas has Xie Shan's peel already turned color, or is it still green (satsumas can mature before color change). Mine here in Colorado (greenhouse) are large enough but still very green.  I should try one and see how it is.  Xie Shan is one of the earliest citrus to become eatable.

Just be aware that if you use "soil drench" or systemic pesticide, that this will be in the fruits too. For trees this small you can put a fine netting up to prevent the LM moth laying eggs on the new flush.

The psyllid sucks both on the new and old leaves.

I think the comment about psyllids "disappearing" is a bit misleading. They are very hard to spot. I heard last week that one of the big citrus growers from Florida who never saw a single psyllid in the grove was losing trees to huanglongbing. They may be around even without being seen. In the absence of ants on a citrus tree the psyllids may be controlled to a low level by natural predators.

Socal2warm, have you tasted a citrumelo? I actually like swingle; tastes like a lemon, sour, but to me it's a lemon. They are sour. Dunstan to me tastes like an old fashioned white grapefruit, not offensive, but a bonified bitter grapefruit. Wouldn't win a taste test with ruby red, but if I can get one to live and bloom and mature fruit here, I would be thrilled. I've not tasted a citron, but from I've read about them, they are not good quality fruit with little pulp; I think you'd be taking a step backwards if breeding citrumelo with citron.