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Messages - barath

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I can report that these grow great from the seeds from Raul -- I had a bunch a couple years back and gave them to a local community college to sell at their sales.  I kept two, which are growing nicely in California -- they're growing faster here in Southern California, though not very fast.  Their growth looks a lot like lychee, and is similarly slow-ish growing.

Artocarpus chama naturally grows in North East India from Arunachal Pradesh to Tripura and in some places there will be very low temperature in the winter but the trees survive.

If it can really grow in Arunachal Pradesh then it probably can grow in at least Zone 10a Florida conditions and maybe even Zone 10a California conditions if it grows in the higher altitudes as well.


Cold tolerant Artocarpus chaplasha/Artocarpus chama seeds are available.25 seeds 15 USD plus 30 USD for EMS(Earlier I quoted 20 USD for 25 seeds).

Sounds interesting -- when you say cold tolerant, what sort of climate do they grow in?  Is it more cold tolerant than Jackfruit?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado grafting
« on: July 13, 2018, 11:46:32 PM »
On the rubber bands....

Yes might have got it from the tour as wslau says. But I didn't take it serious for more than a year.

In my climate the rubber bands deteriorate in about two weeks. I cover in foil for 4-6;weeks then remove after it buds out. Alternately you can wrap the rubber in parafilm and it'll last for a couple months.

I have a dumb question -- why not just let the rubber band deteriorate after 2 weeks?  I sometimes use them and do a layer of parafilm first and then rubber band on top, usually when it's a graft I won't be able to come back to later.  And even if the rubber band goes away it seems ok.

Sunrise papaya (aka strawberry papaya).  Very sweet, with no musk smell.  I have a seedling tree and love the fully ripened fruit

I agree with Rodney -- strawberry papaya tastes great, especially with a bit of lime squeezed on it.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado grafting
« on: July 13, 2018, 04:16:15 PM »
This probably isn't adding much, but I've found that scion freshness matters a lot for avocado grafting, much more than any other trees I graft and probably as much as it does for passionfruit.  One trick that seems to help is put scions in a cup of fresh water (room temperature water, boiled/filtered if your tap water isn't great) for a while before grafting.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Brutal heatwave 7/06/18 in Socal
« on: July 12, 2018, 10:03:52 PM »
Just checked on some small guava trees I had planted in a spot that hit 116 F two days in a row -- not only was there no damage, but they were green and happy.  (Meanwhile argan trees, which supposedly can handle desert heat, were scorched.)

Great, thanks!

Maybe soil differences are playing a big role -- I remember being told by someone living in Fallbrook that his soil was decomposed granite that was so well-drained that the water just ran right through.  He would drench his trees constantly with a (seemingly wasteful) amount of water.  On the other hand in the bay area there are tons of large old avocado trees that get no irrigation at all despite getting not much more rain than SoCal, growing in heavy clay soil.  There are a lot of these old trees in the east bay, some in areas that get only about 16 inches of rain a year, and I bet many of them aren't directly irrigated at all.

I'm hoping to graft up a few mango trees to give to friends and would like to get La Verne "Manila" trees for cheap to graft onto -- anyone know which nurseries typically carry them for cheap ($20/each or so)?  Once in a while I would see them available for $20-25 at home depot but I don't know if that's the best option or if there are wholesale nurseries that will sell in bulk to CRFG members or the like.

Good thinking -- I planted a couple of West Indian seeds on the greenway in Albany and am thinking we can graft them next spring.  Maybe we should prioritize some Hawaiian cultivars for them.

Where are you in Northern CA?  I ask because I've found Sharwil to be a slow grower in the bay area -- might be worth considering putting it on double rootstock if you want to grow it.  (It seems to help increase the growth rate.)

Do you find that you need to irrigate them, or do they make it without water?  Because in the bay area I've seen them grow like weeds, with no water, and are hard to deal with when they grow.

There was someone who posted pictures of an amazing looking lychee tree growing in Long Beach -- maybe it's one of those things that needs a combination of warm nights (urban heat island and warm waters) plus good soil plus extra care (filtered water, acidified soil)?

I'm hoping to try Simon's suggestion of growing a bunch of lychee seedlings and approach grafting -- planted a bunch of seeds recently.

Where did you get seeds of C. imperiale?  I've been really hoping to try it here because I think our climate might be just right.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Industrial garden hoses
« on: June 16, 2018, 10:34:14 PM »
Get a hose rated for drinking water.  Hoses are notorious for containing lead.

This is something I wanted to add / ask about.  I'd like to get one that's lead free in both fittings and hose and can handle heavy use.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: drought tolerant stone fruit
« on: June 16, 2018, 03:43:17 PM »
Patrick, I remember being amazed at how well your trees were all doing given how little you water, and that you were on top of a steep hill where I can't imagine there's any groundwater.

I usually go with about 50/50 peat/perlite and that seems to work well.  I don't get mold if I have more peat in the mix but often the peat creates a hard hydrophobic layer on top when it dries, which seems to hurt the small seedlings that are trying to push through.

I think your best bet is still to get tree trimmings for free from local arborists and just dump a huge layer of that.  After about 6 months it'll decompose into really good soil for trees.  You can always add coffee grounds, manure, compost, and other things on top and as you water them they'll filter down and mix with the tree trimmings.

I remember reading that the stuff they give away at Griffith Park is a mix of decomposed green waste, animal manure from the zoo, and wood chips.  (Not sure if it's the same as what you got.)

Does anyone in SoCal have recommendations for cherry tomato varieties that grow well as perennials?  I've heard that people living in zone 10b areas of SoCal are able to keep cherry tomato plants growing for many years and they can produce nearly year round.  I've had that luck with many pepper plants but am not sure which tomato varieties would be good for perennial growing.

Even better would be non-cherry tomatoes that produce year round...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cainito fruit set photo in San Diego
« on: June 08, 2018, 12:33:34 AM »
Wow, that's awesome.

How do you manage them in the winter?  I had some in containers on my very mild rooftop garden in the East Bay (no temperatures below 39F) and the starapples completely defoliated from the cold wind we'd get.  Cold dry wind seemed to be worse for them than cold rain.  But of course your winter is much warmer and drier than here.

Longan should do fine in Alhambra, as should Lychee and many other subtropicals, though given your summer heat you will need to water them a fair bit.

Also, if anyone knows where to get US-942 rootstock seeds, that would be another good one to include in the experiment because it apparently had good HLB resistance.

I wanted to make a new thread for this idea and see if anyone else would like to try with me.  I was reading this study:

It looks like citron and lime trees have the most resistance to HLB.  So maybe a multi-rootstock tree made up of citron and/or lime seedling rootstocks could have enough resistance to HLB to survive and maybe even thrive.

Here's a source of potential seeds but the smallest order is 1000 seeds of any variety:

Maybe folks would like to do a group order and try this experiment out?

I'm thinking Volkameriana and Palestine Sweet lime, and maybe one other -- anyone know if any of the seeds listed are a good citron variety to use as rootstock?  Then we'd order those three and split the seeds up among the group.

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