That tree in sri lanka is not big, we sell tree's that size in 100 liter pots everywhere in thailand.

You've seen *dabai fruiting in 100 litre pots*?  Seeing trees in pots is not remotely the same thing as seeing a specific tree fruiting in a specific-sized pot.   Lots of people grow bananas in 100l pots, but it'd take a miracle to get anything meaningful out of it, or even flower in most cases.

If you really want to try this (don't get your hopes up), you're going to have to graft.  Yes, if you're in an area that already has the occasional male tree, you won't need one.   Use an upper branch (not a lower branch) from an already-fruiting tree as a scion.

You may also want to consider a different canarium species. They're all huge trees, but some are more monstrous than others    Canarium album (Chinese White Olive), or perhaps even better, Canarium harveyi (Nangai) are probably better.  Here's a Nangai fruiting at a reasonable height (although still huge for a pot!)

Given the results with cherimoya, I wonder if atemoya is the same - any atemoya growers here?  Of course, I imagine most will be in Florida, which is a bit dimmer in the summer (more comparable to Manaus).

(Hmm, curious... the most sun-rich month in Miami is April!  I guess the summer storms haven't moved in yet then)

I am inland at 1300 feet elevation. we get coastal influence fog and winds in summer time. air distance we are about 30 miles away from coast.

Let's see, trying to find a PVWatts weather station similar to your description... I think the best I see is Riverside. About as far from the coast as you describe (but not as high altitude).  Summer sun is about 7 kWh/m²/d, so a bit brighter than Manaus on average.  But if you get more fog than Riverside then that might reduce it.  Let's try a few other stations... yeah, everything even as far as Palm Springs appears to be about 7 kWh/m²/d, so somewhat brighter than Manaus.  But there's no high altitude stations, and I don't know what gets fog.

I guess it's probably best then to mark cherimoya as "similar" in light shade and full sun for Manaus-level lighting, with a note that excessive sun might reduce sweetness.

From some species descriptions, here's some that (depending on how much you can trust the wording of species descriptions and/or read too much into them!) might fruit as well in *light* shade:

A. cornifolia
A. neosericea
A. senegalensis - said to actually prefer light shade to full sun
A. stenophylla

Some that might be even less shade tolerant than usual (savannah plants or similar)

A. crassiflora
A. leptopetala
A. dioica
A. paludosa
A. spraguei

Does that look right?

Quote from: KarenRei on March 06, 2018, 02:54:34 AM

Quote from: rynophiliac on March 05, 2018, 10:35:41 PM

Quote from: Empoweredandfree on March 05, 2018, 10:02:49 PM

The trees you mentioned will all fruit in pots, the key is adequate light and container size. With my smaller trees (Not producing fruit) a sunny window is enough but next year I'll be investing in supplemental light.

What about putting the pot by a southern window?  It should get quite a bit of light

Think of how small of a percentage of the sky sphere your southern window gets, and thus what percentage of the sun's energy (direct fraction, indirect fraction).  Now multiply by ~0,85 for double pane glass (assuming it's kept clean) for those losses.

Unless they're panoramic, south windows are best classified as partial shade.  You need a plant that will fruit in partial shade.  Heck, even with panoramic windows its more like "light shade"

Now, that said, I actually have some coffee that fruits from a *north* window.  But remember that this is Iceland; in the summer the sun rises and sets in the north.    (In the winter it gets supplemental lighting).  And trust me, the yield isn't spectacular 

Yes, growing in pots is a lot of work, expense and little reward. Much respect for your accomplishments, no matter how small in Iceland!!!

Recently moved two more trees out next to it (main purpose: freeing up some space in the grow room).  Sorry, parrot, you no longer get a window view     The extra trees are now into larger pots, and I'm working on fixing some nutrient deficiencies in them. Also plan to do a heavy pruning on my main fruiting coffee tree.  Who knows, maybe two years from now I'll advance from "a small coffee cup per year" to "a pot of coffee to share with friends"    hehe.  This year I'm trying the "let the cherry dry with the bean still in it, then remove it" technique; I've heard that it imparts a fruity flavour to the coffee.

Still need to figure out how to get my acerola to be predictable in its fruiting.  At least I've got the "pruning = flowering" trick down, and kind of have a handle on the cycling of soil moisture as a trigger.  But I still haven't figured out how it decides when it wants to set fruit and when it doesn't (I hand pollinate).

I used to get physalis nonstop, but haven't gotten any for years.  I know the poor thing is horribly rootbound, but I don't want it taking up any more space, so I think it's just given up and decided "I think I'll just do the whole "leaf" thing nonstop now, thanks"    Maybe I'll give in and give it a bigger pot to see what it does... can't imagine what that rootball looks like..

I have a vasconcella pubescens that I can't stop from flowering.  But I've only got the one, and it's dioecious, so....  :Þ

I really want to get my monstera and my annona scleroderma to flower.  I'd think both would be big enough.  I recently spread some superphosphate around as a hint    My larger tamarind might be big enough to give it a go too, maybe, if I can convince it that it's happy enough 

Still, it's always one step forward and one step back.  For example, I added a new 1000W grow light a couple months ago.  Still could use more light, but it's a more "normal" situation.  Great!  Except then I discovered, hey, now that you actually have some places that are outright bright, you have to pay attention to cases of excess light, not merely insufficient light.   Badly burned a salak and a garcinia. The salak might not make it.  :Þ  Also lost a couple plants recently learning a hard lesson about how much some plants hate ammonium fertilizers  :Þ  Note to Karen: lower pH with *sulfur*, not *ammonium fertilizers*.

But hey... good excuse for new seeds, right? 

On the upside, I found a place I didn't think existed here: a company that imports and sells predatory insects!  My first batch of "pets" will be arriving tomorrow.  Goodbye, spider mites!  Goodbye, fungus gnats!    (Wish I could find a good place to buy bulk pollen so I could feed the mite predators once they've exhausted their food supply...)

I guess I'm too used to pot culture where heavy soils (aka clay) basically don't exist unless you want them to    In my world, sand, perlite, and pumice increase drainage but decrease water retention; general organic matter / compost / peat / etc (in addition to vermiculite) increase water retention but reduce drainage.

The upside is no clay.  The downside is, unless you have (proportionally expensive) air pots, you have poor soil aeriation to start with.  Plants like coffee and bananas don't care, but you have to really watch those mango roots...

Okay, these figures are much more believable; that was working out to an insane amount of fertilizer.  Either the page is wrong, or I'm reading it wrong.  Because they call for " 1 to 2 oz (30-29 g) or less of NPK every 8 weeks increasing the amount as the plant grows (Table 2).", with Table 2 going up to 5-8oz.  So multiply that by 6 1/2 feedings... it's like 2lb/0,7kg of 6-6-6 to 10-10-10 per year.  That's an insane amount of fertilizer for a plant that is only allocated ~0,15 m² of ground space.

Quote from: Empoweredandfree on March 05, 2018, 10:02:49 PM

The trees you mentioned will all fruit in pots, the key is adequate light and container size. With my smaller trees (Not producing fruit) a sunny window is enough but next year I'll be investing in supplemental light.

What about putting the pot by a southern window?  It should get quite a bit of light

Think of how small of a percentage of the sky sphere your southern window gets, and thus what percentage of the sun's energy (direct fraction, indirect fraction).  Now multiply by ~0,85 for double pane glass (assuming it's kept clean) for those losses.

Unless they're panoramic, south windows are best classified as partial shade.  You need a plant that will fruit in partial shade.  Heck, even with panoramic windows its more like "light shade"

Now, that said, I actually have some coffee that fruits from a *north* window.  But remember that this is Iceland; in the summer the sun rises and sets in the north.    (In the winter it gets supplemental lighting).  And trust me, the yield isn't spectacular 

Are you talking about marang (Artocarpus odoratissimus)?  Or is this a fruit I don't know about?

Quote from: shot on March 03, 2018, 08:31:23 AM

borassus flabellifer that should grow in cali.That is one massive plant though for urban yard

And they are dioecious! I want room for these so bad.

My understanding is that the fruit isn't as good as a good coconut. 

As for dioecy:
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236156216_Existence_of_co-sexuality_in_palmyrah_palm_and_study_of_relationship_between_monoecious_and_dioecious_palms_using_molecular_markers

Though palmyrah is a dioecious palm, recentlya high yielding monoecious palmyrah palm has been located in Undeswarapuram near to Rajamundry in Andhra Pradesh State (Venkataramana, personalcommunication).

If you do some leg work, you might be able to track down seeds of a monoecious B. flabellifer.  And then hope that they also come true with monoecy.  Yeah, it's a long shot.  On the other side, if you can confirm inherited monoecy, lots of people are going to want seeds from you 

You think *you* get poor quality fruit in your stores, try buying exotics in Iceland    There's a lot of things that I don't even bother trying to get fresh (such jackfruit), since they're invariably bad; I just do frozen (which IMHO I quite enjoy cold).  Some fruits that they'll sell in stores are completely inedible - sugar apples turned to blackened rubber and the like.  But some seem to survive better.  Mangosteens, I've found about 4 in 5 or more are good.  Langsat too is usually good.  I've unfortunately never seen cherimoya here, which I find to be a crying shame (esp. since they're grown in Spain, which isn't that far away from here).  I hope my 2+m A. reticulata decides to bloom some time soon...

Let's see... maybe 30 grams per fruit, taking up perhaps 16 square meters of land, say 400 fruits... in the ballpark then of 0,75 kg per square meter (0,15lbs/ft²)?  That's a pretty impressive yield for a tree that hasn't been optimized in cultivation!  But it sure looks it, at least from the older pictures.

Then again, I know imbe is super variable, so maybe you just got lucky