It's not easy to tell. Are you sure it's a grafted variety and not a seedling?
It's not a 'white' or 'el bumpo' for sure.

figo preto was supposedly discovered in the Point Loma area in San Diego. That's really coastal since it's a peninsula. Its taste and growth habit are really close to black madiera any many people believe they're the same.

Yes, be careful about fertilizing and watering right now. You want to have a good flush of new growth after the harvesting time. But it should stop growing and enter a state of dormancy after that. Withhold fertilizer and water after that. If it rains, cover the ground with plastic sheets. If new leaves grow out, pinch them off. Keep pinching until the growth become flower buds. Leaf growth is pale green, flower growth is darker stubbier.

What's the humidity in your area? If it's really high, you may not need to cover the graft as much.

See the "adaptation" section here: https://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/feijoa.html

Seems like lychee where it requires some chill hours to fruit.

Is that 10b with coastal humidity or with hills blocking the humidity? I'm in Burbank and it's several degrees warmer here than Downtown LA just 10 miles away but with the coastal influence.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pollen_tube

The pollen makes their own tubes to get to the ovules. It's not like a protein where you can prevent another molecule from binding to a receptor by binding to it first. Which ever pollen can make the tube the fastest will get there.

I think there are enough space in the stigma for both compatible and incompatible pollen to hang on. It shouldn't take too much compatible pollen to get fruit set.

Looking at the first post again, I realized how big the plant is for a fruit that small. Mine is still in a 4 inch pot. It's good to know they are more cold tolerant. My normal golden pineapples will get frost burn during the colder parts of winter.

the "god" of fungi research is - Paul Stamets - ...
his company is fungi.com

i bought 1 lb of this stuff.
i fully trust this more than any other product.

I would trust him more on fungi too. He even wears fungi. His hat is made of this really flammable conk's fibers.

Rhizopogon villosulus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Pisolithus tinctorius, Suillus granulatus, Laccaria bicolor, Laccaria laccata, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum

I get some Rhizopogons around my fruit trees and Pisolithus tinctorius under my oak. I've been breaking up the masses and spreading it in the root zone of all my plants. But supposedly, fungi colonize the soil and roots of plant really fast, and it's more effective to inoculate soon after seed germination (for things like truffles) or at tree transplanting like someone said above (so you can apply it on the roots themselves. The spores aren't going to drill down into the soil to look for roots. I figured I'd try to apply them to my plants anyway since I already have them anyway.

I just pile on the wood chips which takes a bit longer but will create a culture of mychorzzial bacteria for your soil near the tree.

Zands, fungi eat specific things. The ones that eat dead wood (wood chips, leaf mulch, dead layer of grass under lawn) are saprophytes. They can live independently of trees (button mushroom), opportunistically consume exposed wood (oyster mushroom), or they can parasitize and kill the trees (honey mushroom). Breaking down the wood recycles the nutrients as a positive effect but these are not the mycorrhizal fungi that have a beneficial relationship with living plants via root interactions.

Yes, top work it and graft on the varieties you like to eat.

Are the mume fruits good? Maybe consider bringing cuttings to your local scion exchange where you can pick up other varieties of stone fruits. These happen in mid-Jan/Feb around LA.

You actually missed a pretty good graywater presentation this morning at the arboretum in Arcadia.

I didn't know even better resistance cultivars such as Sugar Belle will require all the extra work in order to produce well. I thought it was resistant and you can grow it like normal without all the fuss. This is more like prolonging useful life of already resistant cultivars. The title made it sound like there's a solution.

Thanks for posting. It's good to see any news on where things are at.

A recent tweet(reshared on FB by Megan Lynch) made it sound like HLB is quickly taking over Southern California: https://twitter.com/CalAgToday/status/916513831995678721

My friend grew a cutting of parfianka this year and it made 2 fruits. They looked ready but we tried and the one we picked was tart. I've had the fruit before and could tell it wasn't ready. That was last week in San Marino.

Sapodilla doesn't seem to have a large root system. It's one of the few seedlings I grow where the top is much larger than the container (pint). It's not getting root-bound.