Nice! This is one of the more vigorous grafts on my tree. It is putting out flowers right now. I hit it with some fish/seaweed/keyplex micro foliar feeding and broadcast the whole yard with organic 4-3-4, potassium sulfate and sul-po-mag. I am ready for some night hand pollination and some fruit.

Here is a picture of the Leo hybrid #3 Fruit in case anyone missed the other thread. The fruit is very bumpy and has a Brix between 24-26% with excellent acid balance. To me personally, I don’t care if it’s a Cherimoya, Atemoya, Cherisop, Hybrid or whatever. I just really want the fruit to be self fruitful/self pollinating and for it to have excellent Cherimoya like acidity.

I just emailed Leo to see if he can give me additional background information on his Hybrid #3. I would really like to know what he used for the male and female.






Simon

I grafted some cherimoya scions recently hoping to do the same thing here in Florida and maybe even find a cherimoya that will set a decent crop here. I will have to check my LM-3 branch when I get home and take special care of it. Dream seems to make smallish fruit and I haven't seen a well tendend, tipped, stripped and hand pollinated tree to really evaluate it's true potential. I'll pollinate mine this year but there are so many different grafts on it that it wont be a great reading on it's potential.

I just ate my first La Habra Sun this morning and it was still good tasting even though it was a late winter fruit and I recently pruned the tree and stripped the leaves. It definitely beat the crap out of the insipid late fruit I was eating early this winter from a different tree that I let hold way too much fruit.

They have people that do this stuff as their job. I would just hire someone down there or contact TREC or other growers to possibly get some contact info. I wish my photos were better organized. I have video of the massive tractor rock plowing a veg field. For tree crops they always rip the cross pattern. I wouldn't dig a 3 x 3 hole unless you are trying to start a field grown bonsai business.

I don't know if that's the best strategy. The roots will pretty quickly grow beyond the 1.5' radius (probably within the first), and the feeder roots generally don't go more than a foot deep anyway. So, you'll end up with several hundred cubic yards of rocks to dispose of (roughly 3/4 yard per hole) with little gain.

The X cutting would be better, as it allows feeder roots space to grow (they can follow the X lines). And you don't gain anything by making the holes that deep. A foot to 18 inches would be plenty. Also, I think your best bet is to get soil depth by bringing in tree trimmer mulch.

When I asked Dr Jonathon Crane about this subject a few years ago, he recommended growing sunn hemp and tilling into the soil.

Quote from: maverick99 on March 11, 2018, 09:38:13 PM

Thanks everyone for all the valuable suggestions. I am going to rent a back hoe and make 3' * 3' holes .

Federico , I will need your help with finding mulch and some guidance on making holes. I will send a message.

Thanks

Quote from: Johnny Redland on March 09, 2018, 09:28:44 PM

As you can see from my below photo, one of my Sweetheart Lychee trees refuses to green up. At first I thought it was lack of water, but heavy watering hadn’t changed it. Then I thought it may have been nutrient deficient so I fertilized with 8-3-9 with micros. The thing flushed out like crazy but leaves cane out yellow and never changed to dark green. Can’t figure it out. My other Lychee trees are all dark, dark green.

Try doing a soil drench using Sequestrene-138 chelated iron.

That's the stuff.

Most commercial groves in Homestead use a giant trencher. The go through with the spacing they plotted out and then cut across the opposite direction to make a grid pattern. After that they put the busted up limerock pieces back in the trenches and then plant the trees in the middle of the Xs they created. From that point on the trees are almost grown in a hydroponic like condition, normally with conventional fertilizers and ungodly amounts of foliar feeding, especially chelated iron. It really is a strange way to grow.

Was this property previously planted on? It might be trenched out for you already.

There are some organic growers there and some just swap out organic products for the conventional ones and then some actually build up the soil with mulch and compost and whatnot.

If you can spare 6 weeks this summer there is a graduate level course through UF that is amazing. Look up HOS 5555. It is offered every other year on the even numbered years. Dr. Jonathan Crane teaches it. It was such a good experience.

Two samples from the same source before and after I treated with sulfuric acid. I am still trying to learn basic water chemistry so any comments are helpful.

Here you go Simon. My carmen hass is  fully loaded with fruit and still out growing sir prize and lamb hass. Roostock has been buried in the soil.

How deep did you bury the root crown? I have been experimenting with this and having good results. So far I have only done things that root easily like pomegranate, dragonfruit and figs. I am going to try Jackfruit and annonas next. I have been obsessed with this since I read this article a while back.

http://rfcarchives.org.au/Next/CaringForTrees/DelayedIncompat9-96.htm

Vulcanic Brazil

They're good here for the simple fact of being native! They are born spontaneously in the forest, both Atlantic Forest and Ana Amazonian Forest

Have you seen these grow in wet/flooded areas?

Unfortunately that would be illegal to import that ginormous "seed". I got mine in a roundabout way from a somewhat isolated patch at Chapman field. It will be the green type judging by the fronds.

I guess Fiji Dwarf get big. http://www.palmbeachpalmcycadsociety.com/palms/documents/CocosNuciferaFijiDwarf.pdf

Probably iron. Maybe some other micros. They like acid, well watered fertile soil. They also look better when they warm up.

Or airlayers. 

That never even crossed my mind.

Most chempadek are really delicate and fussy, even here in Hawaii. But there is so much variation that i think one could be found that is as hardy as jackfruit. Just need to keep trying with different types from different sources.

That is the plan Oscar. The initial problem is a very weak root system that leads to damping off. There is likely some sort of microbiome that allow these to thrive early on within their native habitat. I believe I have solved that issue but time will tell. The next step will be finding minimum damage temps next winter.