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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help with Monroe Avocado
« on: April 21, 2015, 11:07:32 PM »
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I plant wide rows of trees with the main crop in the center, then fast maturing sacrifice crops between them with mulch crops in in front and back of the main row. Here is picture looking at the mulch crops, here pigeon pea, young glyricidia and moringa. You might be able to see the small mamey on the left of the screen which is the main crop and the sugar apples behind that, which is the sacrifice crop. Eventually all but the main crop get removed.
Moringa makes for a really good mulch plant even though it's not a legume, its biomass production is much greater than the pigeon peas. It is very tender and decomposes readily if chopped often.
We use those nitrogen fixers as well as lots of others, especially glyrcidium. I like your ideas but personally, I would not crowd so much stuff in. We plant pigeon peas at least ten feet apart. Inga is also fast growing and is used for shading cacao on organic farms in Costa Rica. But it would be planted at about 60' spacing so that everything had lost of room. Even though a plant is a nitrogen fixer it can still compete with your crops.
Peter
I am sure my whole yard is WAY over planted but I started watching Richard Campbell and the Dave Wilson fruit tube videos with Tom Spellman and got a bit obsessive. Then I found some Yonemoto pdfs that someone posted on the forum and realized I can do anything. hahaha. I have a Valencia Pride that I just rebooted to about 1' to see how low I can keep that. Is this the erythrina you were talking about?
I have one scraggly, neglected pigeon pea that I use for pretty much cut and drop fertilizer/"mulch". The tree is so easy to grow, but I just don't care that much for the peas, so I usually plant them, give them to Caribbean friends, or just cut and drop.
I am also looking for a good nitrogen fixer for a banana patch/mat....tried beans last year but they kind of took over the bananas, and created a tangled mess.



Growing great here in central florida, i have most of them in full sun no burning so im guessing its the really dank soil i have them in that stays pretty moist but has good drainage, about 5.7-6.1 PH with every trace mineral, mushroom, microbes and their cousins. most germinated in a week or two but a few took a month to almost 3 months. The oldest is about 6 months old.

No formal complaints yet.
Yeah, it definitely came straight out of the hoop house. It has already been blasted by direct full sun for six weeks so I figured the damage was done. It looks pretty happy besides the brown edges. If they brown up some more I'll put some shade cloth out. I wanted to test a full sun planting with a little plant but I should have hardened it off right away. It seems like the larger plants like full sun but many people keep these somewhat shaded.I just planted mine out yesterday. I gave it a sort of organic royal treatment. Lots of AACT activated biochar, greensand, azomite, lava sand, extra wormy worm castings, food scraps deep down, a little fish and seaweed emulsion, and mycorrhizae on the roots. You can see I like HEAVY layers of mulch. I bought this little guy from Flying Fox about 6 weeks ago and I left it out in full sun when I got home and it got some leaf burn. It is planted in full sun zone 9B in Sarasota, FL about 8 miles inland from the bay. If it is still struggling after it settles in I will try dropping the pH a bit. I'll post some progress photos later.
You need some shade cloth asap. Was probably growing in a more filtered sunlight environment prior (in a greenhouse/hoop house).




I'm afraid to put them in the ground. Read too many horror stories of difficult erradication.








