Tropical Fruit Forum - International Tropical Fruit Growers



Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ibliz

Pages: [1] 2
1
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Wtb: mango scions
« on: January 05, 2018, 11:49:02 PM »
I will have them available during the growing season. Profile has a list of what we’re growing.

Would you consider sending the scions overseas via USPS ?

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: How to bud graft Mango
« on: November 14, 2017, 09:14:58 PM »
Thanks for the video. Tried many times bud grafting mango and had 0 success. Will give it another try after watching the video;
 

3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado thread
« on: October 25, 2017, 02:27:48 AM »
Iam thinking of starting an avocado collection by getting budwood overseas. The transit usually will take around 7 days. Will any of the  budwood  survive ? Please enlighten me..

4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What's wrong with my Kesar Mango
« on: September 25, 2017, 11:29:04 PM »
Deleted

5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anthracnose treatment large tree
« on: September 05, 2017, 07:14:51 AM »


Heritage is a wide-spectrum fungicide in the strobilurin  group. It is only locally systemic, which means it does not travel far from the absorption site. Very Expensive and highly effective against anthracnose. However, it is also very prone to resistance if abused. I do not think spraying it onto a 25ft tree with a blast sprayer would be very economical.

Plant Doctor Organicide is in the phosphonate group (fosetyl-Al etc). It is truly systemic which means you could drench the root with it and it will travel to all parts of the trees. Very effective if you are dealing with oomycetes fungi but it's effectiveness on anthracnose is only acceptable.

Please read :
https://www.gcsaa.org/uploadedfiles/course/pests-and-diseases/diseases/anthracnose/managing-anthracnose-with-fungicides.pdf


6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anthracnose treatment large tree
« on: August 30, 2017, 07:49:36 AM »
i have yet to find an economical and practical way to maintain tall mango tree.
And there isnt any fungicide against anthracnose that has plantwide systemicity(xylem systemicity).
For that very reason,  I prune and bend the scaffold branches to prevent the tree from getting more than 10 feet tall, or at least try to delay it.

7
Clay and Har

It is not a thrip damage because the underside of the leaves midribs are squeaky clean.


Thrip damage would look like this from the underside.



I have, however, encountered something similar to your problem, but in a much more milder way :
:


I had no idea what caused it at that time, and the problem went away before I could find a remedy.

I tried browsing through my books on mangoes and found this :



So it could be caused by multiple micro nutrient deficiency.

8











These look a lot like thrip damages. Can you post a picture of the underside of the new leaves? Better yet, if you have a 10x magnifying glass, look at the underside of the leaves and check if there is any elongated critters.

9
Aside from thrips, I see some red scales. It's either Aonidiella aurantii or Aonidiella orientalis.
I might be mistaken though, because I have never seen one this small.
Do you have any citrus plant close by ?





10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Electrostatic Foliar Backpack Sprayer
« on: December 08, 2016, 10:07:46 PM »
Gimme some time to think about it.

I can sell you mine. PM me for price info if interested...

Roger that, But I've just got to try ... since no one has ever try it with a stihl 450. (Solo is not available here).



Note that most of the favorable discusiion here is about a sprayer that is NOT electrostatic!

11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Electrostatic Foliar Backpack Sprayer
« on: December 07, 2016, 11:08:07 PM »
Roger that, But I've just got to try ... since no one has ever try it with a stihl 450. (Solo is not available here).



Note that most of the favorable discusiion here is about a sprayer that is NOT electrostatic!

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Electrostatic Foliar Backpack Sprayer
« on: December 07, 2016, 10:05:38 PM »
Allright, I'll bite. I am getting the ES nozzle.

But I don't see the ES nozzle up for sale at groit.co website.
Any tip on where I might get one with discount ?

I ordered the electrostatic nozzle. For anybody who's interested, groit.co has the nozzles for around $360 shipped, which is a pretty reasonable price for those.

I'll let you know how it works in the next couple of weeks. It's probably going to take me a weekend to get it hooked up.

13
That's caused by the larva of Mango Stem Miner (Spulerina isonoma), which is a moth.
It's a rare and minor pest. I have seen them a few times. A regular spray against the other major pests (flies, borers etc) should also control it.



Can anyone name this disease and prescribed cure for it? Branches have have spots with symptoms like snake shedding skin. It does seems to effect growth of the trees or vigor.





14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Electrostatic Foliar Backpack Sprayer
« on: November 29, 2016, 09:35:36 PM »
No, I don't think they will harm the mister. I've just had bad experiences with leaf burn. My ambarella will almost universally defoliate if sprayed with oil.


What kind of oil do you use ?
The oils I am  using  are foodgrade parrafinnic oil  and vegetable oil. I have sprayed  them at 1% (vol/vol)  every fortnight on grape vines to smother powdery mildew and kill mites. Even when sprayed at noon on the hottest day (around 98 F) I have never seen a single leaf   burn. Wettable sulfur, on the other hand, would cause  substantial burn even at 0.5% (wt./vol) here in the tropics.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Electrostatic Foliar Backpack Sprayer
« on: November 28, 2016, 10:09:28 AM »
The usual maximum of oil is 2 1/2 fluid ounces per gallon of spray mix (= 2% volume / volume), but some leaves cannot take that much.   Also, what leaves can take, without spray-burn damage, varies by temperature.

Fully hardened-up mango leaves are very tough, and can usually take the highest permitted dosages of spray ingredients, in cool weather.

Thanks for the reply. 2% oil (v/v) is what I usually use on the toughest bugs out there : armored scale . For mites, 1% would usually wipe them clean for the next 3 monhs or so.
However, The numbers I stated above are for high volume spray, i.e spray till run off.

What I am still clueless about is when using low volume concentrate sprayer such as mist blower, what would be the appropriate oil/water mixture in the spray tank? For example,   let's say when using regular hydraulic sprayer it will  take 120 gallon of mixture per acre for full coverage (1% oil mix =  1.2 gal) . But with mist blower it now only takes 8 gallon of mix to cover an acre. Question : How much oil should i put in the 8 gallon mixture ?


16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Electrostatic Foliar Backpack Sprayer
« on: November 28, 2016, 03:12:57 AM »
Hi,

I have been wanting to replace my hydraulic sprayers with mister. However, i have read that horticultural oils are not compatible with low volume sprayer such as  mister. Reason being that the dosage of horticultural oil are usually stated in per 100 gallon of water and not per acre. I know you can easily convert the dosage to per acre basis, but there are cases of foliar burning when doing so.
Can anyone enlighten me on  this?

18
Those are mango  scales. If you Remove them from the leaves you will most probably see chlorotic yellow patches at the site where they feed.
Mango scales will usually infest trees or part of trees that do not get enough sunlight.
From my experience, the best way to get rid of  the infestation is to spray them with 2% vegetable or summer oil. Two  application set a couple of weeks apart should do the job.

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: ID Mango tree problem
« on: September 13, 2016, 04:26:09 AM »
Once in a while some of my mango trees would display similar symptom on both soil grown as well as container grown trees. I do not know exactly what caused them, but the closest things I can find is zinc deficiency. So what I did was dissolved 5 grams of ZnSO4 plus 5 grams of FeSO4 in 5 liter H20 and drench the container with the solution and the next flush would appear normal. I have tried foliar application of zinc but did not seem to work.

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Male, female, or herm papaya?
« on: August 11, 2016, 01:00:30 AM »
In the first picture, the 3 flowers with candle light shapes are definitely female.
There is another female flower in the second picture.

But I am not sure about the smaller flower buds. They could be hermaphrodite.
Hermaphrodite papaya flowers are inherently unstable. Too much N , overwatering or too cold , the flowers  will display  female characteristic (Carpeloiddy). If the conditions were reversed, the ovary would not develop properly and the flower will display male characteristic.

I am pretty sure these are not male plants since in general papaya are dioecious, which means a plant can  either be hermaphrodite, male or female, but no flowers of two different sexes can exist on the same tree.

Hope that helps.

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Papaya leaf issue ID
« on: July 20, 2016, 11:16:41 PM »
I have experienced  this several times when moving seedling from greenhouse to outdoor. I believed this is an acclimatization problem. The good news is, the new leaves that grow wont have this problem.


22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Please Help id Disorder on Mango fruitlet
« on: June 17, 2016, 11:21:59 PM »
Please help me id the disorder that is affecting the mango fruitlets in the picture. Most of the fruitlets (about thumb size ) have dry-brownish scars.
Climate has been unfriendly to fruit development. Should be dry and cool by this month but we are experiencing heavy,intermittent rain (La Nina effect I guess). I suspect it is scab but I am not certain. Thanks a million.




23
The most reliable trees in my yard are Lemion Meringue, NMD #4 and Carrie. I might add Kesar to that list depending on its performance this year. It is loaded with tiny fruits but I have started seeing signs of powdery mildew.


I have always thought that Kesar is a biennial bearer, no?

24
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: wanted : Wani mango
« on: December 07, 2015, 07:34:53 AM »
Pretty common in Bali. Never tasted one before. What the locals told me is  they are a total pain to graft. Not impossible, but darn low success rate.

25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Any info on Imam Passand Mango?
« on: November 10, 2015, 10:12:36 PM »
I have this on my mango cheat sheet that I put together:


CAVEAT:  I put the cheat sheet together early in my mango career so the sources could be any website or book out there mixed with this forum.  I can't stand behind how accurate any of this info is.  That being said, Sheehan raved about this so I have 2 of them.




trailing growth habit and is easily controlled of 8 to 10 ft disease resistant - silky flesh, deep, sweet flavor with citrus overtones


[/size]‘Imam Pasand’ is one of the best mangos of India, ideally suited for dessert, the table and show. The fruit weigh 16 oz or more and are a beautiful smooth oval at maturity. The skin is a dark green, with distinct white highlights over the entire surface. Upon ripening the fruit can attain a deep yellow blush the shoulders and mid-section. The tree has a trailing growth habit and is easily controlled by annual pruning. The properly pruned tree will have a full, spreading canopy of 8 to 10 ft in height and spread. During the fruiting season of June and July, ‘Imam Pasand’ hangs heavy with consistent production. The fruit should be harvested mature green and ripened off the tree at a temperature of 75° to 85° F. Harvesting should occur 2 to 4 weeks before ripening on the tree for the development of the best quality. Properly harvested and ripened fruit have a fiberless, silky flesh with a deep, sweet flavor and distinct citrus overtones. The tree and fruit are tolerant of diseases and require little in the way of special care.
[/size]

 "Harvesting should occur 2 to 4 weeks before ripening on the tree for the development of the best quality."

From what I read, most Indian mango have to to be picked at mature green stage. I am assuming 2-4 weeks before ripening the fruit would  still be green ? So how would one know when it is ready to be picked. Is there some kind of a tell tale sign or do they keep a  record of the date of the fruitset?   

Pages: [1] 2
Copyright © Tropical Fruit Forum - International Tropical Fruit Growers