Go with Geffner or go for the hand pollination.

This is from Oscar/fruitlovers

Quote from: Berto on April 14, 2012, 10:23:28 PM

In my oppinion there are no dwarf coconuts.  However, people refer to coconuts as being dwarf because some varieties start bearing fruits after 2 years of being planted.  I used to grow the yellow "dwarf"; the red "dwarf"; and the green "dwarf".  I prefer the green one.  The water from the green one is sweeter to me.  Currently, I still have a couple green malay and one yellow coconut tree. 
The so called "dwarf" coconuts reach 10 to 12 meters high.  If I had to plant only one variety, I would choose the green malay "dwarf"
In Brasil, an improved green malay "dwarf" variety bears the first crop with the fruits touching the ground.
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Hi Berto, no you are definitely wrong about that. There are real dwarf coconuts. For example Samoan dwarf never gets more than 10 feet tall. You can see them all around these islands, with giant nuts very close to the ground. You are right though, about Malaysian dwarf. This coconut is not really dwarf, just called that because it starts bearing at very young age, so very low to ground, but will eventually get very tall. Not sure about Fijian dwarf as we don't have them here.

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=1005.0

See the website, terrafrutis.com if your willing to abstain from carne while here and your answers to the questionnaire on the website that you send us to apply are agreeable you’ll be welcomed to come and challenge yourself with jungle frugaculture!

Sign me up!, but I still eat a bit of meat

Should be good fun! Don’t forget to bring down some grafted plants bare rooted and scions! Always need more genetics.

Really cool wast you guys are doing there. I hope to visit some day.

Here are some shots of recent grafts I’ve worked. We have a very recent side veneer of Bell carambola, two camouflaged approach grafts of Choquette avocado, two successful musang king approach grafts pushing growth after being removed too abruptly and loosing their leaves. Finally a close up of another approach graft of a lemon zest mango. If I get to eat each of these fruits I will be sofa king happy, really this is a part of living that outdoes most experiences in my opinion.

Hey there from Terra Frutis down in Ecuador! Summertime here!
I am using air Pruning Trays and Pots to encourage more adventitious root growth and less tap root, in the wet tropics we need to focus on stimulating flower sets, when there is a short dry season a fruit tree may not even be stressed enough to flower which means no fruit. A big factor that causes the plant to get stressed is the supply of water, tap roots go deep to get a reliable water supply while most of the surface adventitious roots reaching to the sides of the tree provide the nutrients from fallen leaves, fungus and hummus.
The roots dry in the air and respond ideally by producing more root growth near the source instead of at the tip like when physically cutting a root. The plants vitality is greatly increased with this process, in the photos are some young ackee trays and underneath a grafted green sapote pot.

Any thoughts, criticism or advice?

I can’t tell if the left branch is from the rootstock or from the grafted geffner Atemoya scion.. this came from Excalibur nursery a couple weeks ago. Kind of valueable right now because I don’t have much material and don’t want to make the mistake of using scions of a rootstock. And of course I want to multiply it as fast as possible onto soursop rootstocks I have waiting.

Nice to see how well your doing in Bucharest! Mangoes and bananas n babaco! Thanks for the support most of them are still sealed up. I am keeping a bag tied over the one I opened.

Don't open the graft tape. This is similar to surgery. Pests will go in there. It's transpiration and probably condensation. You have 16 C then 25C it's condensing.
Don't worry about it's healing.
I just made a mango grafting a couple of days ago, you can take a look.https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1641682875854199&id=1043190099036816

So after 2 days I am seeing water drops inside the grafting tape. It has been 4 days now. This is worrying me of course. Any thoughts on the cause and the risks? These are outdoor Some covered with bags some not, both have droplets. 12 mango grafts in total, 2 are already pushin growth. Suggestions for actions to take?   
Ecuador, mixed rainy sunny days, temps are avg 21 degrees C lows are maybe 16-17. Highs are mid to upper 20s. Y foto..

Will it work? I did two approach grafts and two cleft grafts of musang king today.

Thanks, I am really looking for people with experience with them, how easy are they to eradicate from a certain tree or area? Do they make a tree impossible to climb? How long does the pain last for? We have bullet ants, raider ants, army ants, leaf cutter ants etc so I doubt it can be much worse but I'd like to know exactly what I would be dealing with before I get into it. Do you notice if they mess up flowers or anything that would be considered non beneficial to the tree?

Does limbing for pruning or harvesting become very difficult? Would you say they are in any way worse than other ants?

I have a lot of Green Tree Ants, Oecophylla smaragdina, on my place. In fact they're very common throughout. Years ago I did some research on them and drew the conclusion that their benefits outweighed their negatives. But that's not a view shared by everyone. One thing about them, they don't sting. They bite with mandibles and hold on while arching their abdomen over and spraying their poison. Getting a close up view of them can be painful. They will often spray towards you and if it gets in your eyes you'll know it.

Hello, buenos días,

So we have some ant problems here, we have waited to determine if they were simply a pain to us and not the plants, but now after seeing various trees with many flowers and no fruits that have these ants on them and another type of tiny ant that local Ecuadorian people state damages the plants, we decided to look into our best options to deal with them!

So I have been looking into options so far it seems we have.

Borax and sugar
Baking soda and sugar
Trunk rings of tanglefoot or similar products and Vaseline
Ash
Diatomaceous earth
Soap
Boiling water
Fire
Cinnamon, garlic, cayenne (on a cloth or around base of trunk)
Chemical based Insecticides
Oecophylla longinoda Or weaver ants

Worst types of ants we have so far are leafs cutter ants, they will just chop off a young trees foliage overnight. cambas or tiny fire ants as we call them which leave no eruption but hurt and itch for half an hour or more and usually can't be noticed until many are on you and 10-20 stings can induce a fever, and apparently cause root damage. Black ants that make a termite like trail and molest the flowers beyond acceptable amounts.

We have Implememted a few of these options listed and are looking for something more long term and effective. We are wondering what personal experience people have with Oecophylla longinoda or green/weaver ants how bad their sting is vs their help in a orchard. The bite of green ants might be less than the cambas or black ants which would be worth trading out if they don't damage the trees. Does anyone know if green ants damage any specific trees? Or just help most fruit trees?

I know of a farm(dry climate) that has already imported them to Ecuador but are is a drastically different climate than us here in the humid tropics. I would also like to hear people thoughts on their invasive potential, it seems to me that green ants building a small to large nest is a easy target if they do get out of control. I read they are a great benefit for citrus, coconuts, mangoes and?

Thanks for your information.